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KarenWoo, I used my iPhone 12. I missed the exhibit you show with the hoods - wow, that is very eerie (and such an inhumane practice).
Helena, we absolutely loved the green beans, as well as the bacalao! Thank you for explaining that the beans are a traditional Portuguese dish. Maribel, I cannot tell you how much I relied on your Guide for places to see, how to handle transportation, restaurants, and shops. I used your Guides on Madrid and Barcelona, too - and am now making notes from your Basque writings. Maititom, rather than post the prices of the guides I’ve messaged you. I’ve read your other trip reports and I think you’ll be really, really happy with Luisa and the guides; they’re constantly educating themselves and are the equivalent of the UK Blue Badge Guides, I believe. And guess what - when I was looking at the photo of the lady with her cat, I saw an Instagram sign on the side of her window and tracked her down! Here’s a video of her. What a darling. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CUIKq...f-bcdcb6a71435 |
I wan2go,
In 24 hours or so, I'll be at Chalet Saudade! I'm so pleased you liked them and I'm looking forward to staying there, too! Hoping for the same room you had! Thanks for such an enjoyable ramble through Sintra and Lisbon! We're off in a few more hours!! paule |
Paule,
Boa Viagem!!! Iwan2go, Thanks so much for the kind words. My husband needs an iphone 12 to (try to) take beautiful photos like yours. Thanks for the link of the lady with the cute cat! |
Progol, Safe travels!!!! You will have a wonderful trip!!!
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Obrigada, Maribel and KarenWoo!
Soon, soon, soon.... |
Well... Progol is probably on her way. But I suspect she will take a look at Fodor's, so... Progol, PLEASE, be carefull with the sun, we are expecting the next days to be really hot, and the UV really high. Wear a hat and sunscreen (don't forget your feet toes, neck, ears...).
Hope you have a wonderfull time! |
Originally Posted by HelenaFatima
(Post 17359454)
Well... Progol is probably on her way. But I suspect she will take a look at Fodor's, so... Progol, PLEASE, be carefull with the sun, we are expecting the next days to be really hot, and the UV really high. Wear a hat and sunscreen (don't forget your feet toes, neck, ears...).
Hope you have a wonderfull time! Thank you all for the advice, recommendations and suggestions. I will do my best to reciprocate. |
"Maititom, rather than post the prices of the guides I’ve messaged you."
Thanks so much. I responded, but don't know if it went through. |
Thanks, Tom, glad you got the info. Sorry, had to take a break as we’re almost to the end of doing some construction here and things have been nuts. Looks good now though! And I have access to my tour books again, whew.
Tuesday morning we went to the Museum Nacional do Azulejo, the tile museum, which was magnificent. It’s in Alfama, in the 16th Madre de Deus convent. Rather than describe the chapel, tiles and statues I’ll put photos. It was one of my favorite museums in Lisbon. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3621a3bbc.jpeg Polychrome faience azulejo panel, provenance unknown, Lisbon 1590 - 1620 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff58a3939.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b968f8529.jpeg "Azulejos panel with Moral Emblems”, Lisbon, C 1625-1650 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1645b4fcc.jpeg The Church and Chapterhouse of the convent are a gold wonderland. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f4306868.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2609370a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1099fd00.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32e38e692.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d2f7b4be.jpeg I believe these are statues containing relics. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49143c207.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4a344d75.jpeg We had not completed our visit, but had to leave because the museum CLOSES for lunch from 1:00 - 2:00 - so if you decide to go, keep that in mind. We took a bus from there to the Santa Appolonia station and then walked up the hills to have a repeat pastel de nata at Pastelaria Santo Antonio. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8fd419607.jpeg This gives you some idea of the hilly nature of Alfama. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22850d9e6.jpeg A vintage car near the Pasteleria. Way cool! From there we walked back down the hill to a repeat meal at Delfina, near our hotel. We were the only guests, sitting outside on the lovely square. Had a repeat of the string beans, some pasteis de bacalhau, salmon salad, sauteed shrimp, pea soup. Total for the three of us was 67E. |
These are really beautiful photos of one of my favorite Lisbon museums, including its chapel, dripping with gold.
Glad you mentioned the museums closing from 1-2 pm. But the café remains open from 10 am-5:45 pm. The square where the AlmaLusa Hotel sits, along with Delfina, is one of the nice, quiet corners of Baixa. I love pasteis de bacalhau. |
Beautiful photos of the Tile Museum!!! I love the hilly Alfama neighborhood. And I don't usually get excited about cars, but I do like the vintage car, especially the lovely shade of green!
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So many Fodorites in Portugal this spring. Love the details and photos in your TR.
They bring back many happy memories. |
After lunch, we decided to walk up and tour the Convento do Carmo museum. This was a Carmelite Convent that was all but destroyed in the 1755 earthquake - the walls remain and most of the roof is open to the sky. The sacristy now houses an archeological museum, and it is just beautiful.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd3de3c6d.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ede286186.jpeg This is a statue of St. John Nepomuk, a Czech saint. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...247793f76.jpeg The dramatic roof structure that survived https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbcceba6f.jpeg Statues of the four Evangelists. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d49b4d5f8.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...750725f80.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c53848e6.jpeg Walking in the area in the afternoon - the light just captured my eye. :) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95f2d7cc5.jpeg From there, we walked up to Principe Real, past the Jardim Botanico de Lisboa, then back down to the hotel. It was about 7:00 now, the hotel was serving wine and snacks (and ice cream...), so we decided to sit out front and relax. The decommissioned church across the square was a playground for skateboarders - there must have been ten or more, doing tricks and having fun. We ended up cheering, holding up Olympic rankings, toasting particularly amazing feats, moaning when they crashed. Great way to end the day - I went over and thanked them for the entertainment. Hahaha. Woke up to our final day. Walked to the elevator and up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, constructed by the Moors, for the panoramic views from the ramparts. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4d25c253.jpeg Down to the river https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02c73a0cc.jpeg One of the courtyards https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3499c034.jpeg Steps up to the ramparts We then had lunch at a wonderful cafe, Chapito, up by the castle. I know Mirabel recommended it, and it was delicious. Some of the tables had panoramic views. I don’t recall exactly what we had, but my receipt says the total for the three of us was 72E. Here’s the website: Chapitô à Mesa - Restaurant in Lisbon Back to the hotel for a rest and to start the packing, while our son went to the Museum National de Arte, which he said was outstanding, particularly the Portuguese artists works. He asked if I’d accompany him to get a beer at Delirium Cafe - he wanted a picture with the pink elephant. Heck, sure! So we did that, then took one last walk to the Carmo square, where I caught my favorite photo of the trip. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f447359d.jpeg The fountain in the Largo do Carmo https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b6582bbf.jpeg Dramatic lighting of the face of the Convento do Carmo, We got a pizza to go at Mezzo Giorno, took it back to the hotel, and all of us had our last meal on the square in front of the hotel. It was a wonderful trip. It’s funny, writing about it is a gift. It makes you realize how blessed you are to be able to travel, to learn about the culture of another country, and to re-live and in some way, re-create the adventure when you review it all. I hope sharing our trip helps others when they decide to visit! And, on to the next adventure! |
Iwan2go- I had to laugh as the apartment we were staying in was right above Delirium! So I know that pink elephant well (though I didn’t take a phoot).
I love your photos of the Largo do Carmo at night. Beautiful! |
Iwan2go,
I too love your evening photos of the Largo do Carmo, my favorite square! And from your photo of the city taken from the castle, you can see what a pastel colored city Lisbon is. Your lovely photos and progol's make me want to get on a plane and head back right now! For anyone headed to Lisbon soon, in the Carmo convent ruins, there is currently an evening immersive and multi disciplinary spectacle, "Lisbon Under the Stars" on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights at 9:30 pm. It will run until July 15. You can see a teaser here- https://www.lisbonunderstars.com/enhome. |
Thank you, Maribel! We will be in Lisbon in just over a week and are staying very close to the Carmo convent. We have an evening free the day after we arrive. This sounds perfect!
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Starting to plan our September trip, and thank you so much for the info (all of you ... Helena, Maribel, progol ... reading yours, too)). Looks like Tracy and I will have to get in shape or you might find my body on the steps somewhere in Alfama.
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I had been thinking of just a day trip to Sinatra - until I started reading this wonderful report!
Mlgb, I think you helped me a lot when I was organizing my trip to Alaska? One of my all time best adventures. |
You just planned my trip!
Iwantogo, your trip report is wonderful. I am in the early stages of planning a trip with my adult daughter for next spring, maybe April. I want time in southern Portugal plus time in southern Spain. 2-3 weeks I am guessing. But my daughter may not be able to be away that long, so I am looking for an itinerary that would allow her to be with me for one part of the trip, I go solo for the rest of the trip. (I travel solo frequently. She met me for a week in Venice, I was solo for another week or so.). This week in Lisbon and Sinatra means minimal travel time, minimal hotels, maximum adventure with my dear daughter. Thank you so much.
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great report and amazing photos. the food looks even better than my brain pictured it. we leave 9/3 for 17 days in Portugal, first 5 in Lisbon. you've provided me with a full page of notes for planning. so glad your trip was so lovely.
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