Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)
-   -   Iwan2go went...to Lisbon and Sintra (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/iwan2go-went-to-lisbon-and-sintra-1707331/)

HelenaFatima May 2nd, 2022 08:17 PM

Green bean tempura = peixinhos da horta! A very traditional dish in Portugal! Usually we eat these with "arroz de tomate malandrinho", wich is cream tomato rice, like a risotto.

Adelaidean May 3rd, 2022 01:22 AM

Great photos!

mlgb May 3rd, 2022 07:40 AM

Who says there is no good food in Lisbon..wrong! Great photos.

KarenWoo May 3rd, 2022 08:11 AM

We had delicious food in Lisbon! No complaints here. Great photos of the food!

Maribel May 3rd, 2022 08:25 AM

Helena,
We too had "arroz de tomate" and a delicious, creamy beet rice ("arroz de beterraba"???) as well, at the cute little A Cozinha Sr Lisboa in Lisbon.
https://lisboacool.com/en/eat/sr-lisboa.

Those beans look sooooo good!

Iwan2go May 3rd, 2022 11:14 AM

On Monday morning we took a cab up to the Gulbenkian museum. Calouste Gulbenkian was an Armenian of Turkish origin who lived in London, Paris, and settled in Lisbon at the outset of the Second World War. His interests were broad, including Eastern Islamic art (rugs, tiles, wall hangings), sculpture, and paintings by Turner, Reubens, Cassatt, Degas, Manet, Renoir, and a room of Lalique jewelry. Well worth the visit, we spent at least two - three hours there.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53a07bbaa.jpeg
I had never heard of this artist, but the painting stopped me in my tracks. The blurring of the men’s faces, the focus on the women! “Les Bretonnes au Pardon” by Dagnan-Bouveret, circa 1887
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed5e12b30.jpeg
You can just see the concentration on their faces as they listen to the reading.

There was a section of the museum with more modern art, and a wonderful, playful yet pointed photography exhibit. I’ll let the introduction tell the story.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a70515496.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37ee3d3b5.jpeg
Each woman wore this moss and plant stole.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3da579b10.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d3e3bcd0.jpeg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...985c830bc.jpeg
Here is one of the women - the photos are out of order and I’m not sure how to correct. Her caption (above) says, “Her life has had many twists and turns, just like yarn”.

Iwan2go May 3rd, 2022 11:43 AM

From the Gulbenkian, we decided to just walk back to the hotel, so headed off down to the Parque Eduardo VII, where we stopped for a coffee and relaxed at the Linha d”Agua cafe, overlooking the little lake. From there we walked along the tree-lined esplanade, passing a monument to the Great War, to what was becoming our go-to dining area.






https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92b43758b.jpeg
This gives you a better idea of the layout of the city, sweeping down to the river.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2d149f4f.jpeg
Such a poignant monument, holding the wreath above the head of the soldier.


I guess we took the Gloria Funicular again up the hill (I don’t think we climbed it...). By now it was 3:30, and we were the only guests for lunch at Oficina do Duque, near the Igreja de Sao Roque. We had a wonderful meal there, but I can’t find the receipt to list it. I know we had a delicious soup, and our son got a sort of couscous with mint sorbet that he raved about.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fe77dd52.jpeg
Ask the server what this is, and get it. :) Apparently it was outstanding.

Then we had the most wonderful, serendipitous experience of the trip! While meandering, we came upon this delightful woman leaning out of her window with her cat. We noticed that she had a hat on the cat’s head, and I asked permission to take a picture. She kept giggling and changing the hats. The cat just went along with it all!


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e9f6606a.jpeg
Isn’t that a hoot?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bee110e8d.jpeg
She said this one was Carmen Miranda. Cat seems stoic....Hahaha.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3190bc7e9.jpeg
...and Santa Claus. She got the BIGGEST kick out of this, couldn’t stop giggling. Isn’t she wonderful?!!!


​​​​​​​

mlgb May 3rd, 2022 12:03 PM

Love it!!

Iwan2go May 3rd, 2022 12:19 PM

Did a little more walking around and got dessert at Alcoa, on rue Garrett. The blue tile building is the oldest bookstore in Lisbon, Livraria Bertrand, on the same street. Down the side street is a great store for mementos, A Vida Portuguesa (others including Mirabel have mentioned it), where I found a little porcelain swallow, the symbol of Portugal, which now sits on my entry table as a reminder of the trip!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b68649fdb.jpeg
Typical tiled building, this one the oldest bookstore in the city.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa4cedbac.jpeg

Maribel May 3rd, 2022 12:48 PM

That swallow that you purchased at my favorite shop, A Vida Portuguesa, next to the Restaurante Alma on Rua Achieta, is by Bordallo Pinheiro, the same ceramics maker as the green cabbage motif serving pieces displayed in the Sintra handicrafts shop across from the National Palace.
https://us.bordallopinheiro.com/home-decor-swallows-cat.

You found some great places to dine in Lisbon. I'm putting Oficina do Duque on my "to do" list!
https://lisboacool.com/en/restaurants/oficina-duque-0.

progol May 3rd, 2022 01:10 PM

Wow, you are definitely whetting my appetite for the trip! We leave tomorrow!

And I now have a reservation at Oficina do Duque!😉

maitaitom May 3rd, 2022 01:44 PM

"We booked a morning tour with Luisa at Lisbon Tour Guides ."

Great report ... we don't leave until September, but this certainly whets my appetite. How much is the tour of the National Palace and Quinta da Regaleira (there would be four of us)? Thanks.

Maribel May 3rd, 2022 01:54 PM

maitaitom,
I can highly recommend the lovely ladies of Lisbon Tour Guides. I've used them several times. And the advantage is that they do have a tour departing from Sintra, not Lisbon, for those staying in Sintra that covers this:
https://lisbontourguides.pt/sintraregaleirahalfday.

KarenWoo May 3rd, 2022 02:41 PM

I love your photos and I am really enjoying your report. Brings back memories of our wonderful trip to Lisbon and Sintra.

We loved the Gulbenkian!!! We spent about 3 hours there including lunch at the cafe. Did you visit the Modern Collection? It's in a separate building from the Founders Collection. I am not a fan of Modern Art, but I really enjoyed the Modern Collection. They had an eerie exhibit called the Abolition of the Hood. Consists of negative images of prisoners covered in white hoods. This was a common practice until 1913 to give prisoners a lack of identity and a feeling of suffocation.



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39ac8cec40.jpg
Abolishment of the Hood - Gulbenkian Museum



joannyc May 3rd, 2022 03:25 PM

Those traveling to Lisbon may be interested in this article: https://apple.news/A628_d-c7TWWZyCgUGMUonw

Maribel May 3rd, 2022 03:38 PM

And another--"things to know before you go"
https://roadsandkingdoms.com/travel-...-go-to-lisbon/

bdokeefe May 3rd, 2022 05:17 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17359180)
I love your photos and I am really enjoying your report. Brings back memories of our wonderful trip to Lisbon and Sintra.

We loved the Gulbenkian!!! We spent about 3 hours there including lunch at the cafe.

Do you mean the outside cafe? I've wandered the gardens, but have never been inside the museum. These little guys were wandering around our table last week. Unfortunately the outside ponds/fountains that are adjacent to the main museum building are blocked off by construction. Beautiful landscaping, all the trails and bamboo in the middle of the city.

Iwan2go- Great write up, I love that walk down from the Gulbenkian, through the parks and then the Avenida de Liberdade. To celebrate our negative test results Sunday we had the 2L Sangria from the Banana Cafe near the war monument you posted. Combined with a pizza, (which the attendants laughed at), very tasty to us.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b25fba6399.jpg
Visitors to the Cafe.

progol May 3rd, 2022 05:39 PM

Oh, Iwan2go, I do love the photos of the lady with her cat! They are priceless - and the Carmen Miranda headwear gets my vote.😉

KarenWoo May 3rd, 2022 06:25 PM

bdokeefe, yes, I mean the outdoor cafe. And we loved wandering through the gardens, too. It was a lovely walk from the Modern Collection building to the Founders Collection building. We stayed near the Edward VII park, and several times we walked from our hotel, down Avenue de Liberdade, to the city center. We really enjoyed that walk.


Maribel May 3rd, 2022 08:12 PM

I'm another one who really enjoys the beautiful (downhill!) walk from the Eduardo VII park all the way down the Avenida da Liberdade with its many red benches now dedicated to and immortalizing the Lisbon female fado luminaries (like the legendary Amália Rodrigues), and the quiosques (kiosks) for stopping for refreshments along the way, like bdokeefe's Banana Café.

The walk from the Gulbenkian down the leafy Liberdade makes for a very pleasant downhill stroll with plentiful rest stops.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:24 PM.