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-   -   Itinerary - England (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/itinerary-england-997425/)

irishface Nov 18th, 2013 06:49 PM

I liked Lacock a lot. It was a lovely town and I enjoyed the photography museum at Henry Fox-Talbot's home. Not far from Lacock in Bradford-on-Avon is a little Saxon church whose architecture I found fascinating and atmosphere peaceful.

irishface Nov 18th, 2013 06:57 PM

I just checked back on the AngloSaxon church (10th century) that I mentioned above. It is dedicated to St. Laurence and is one of the few surviving Saxon churches in England that has not been remodeled, rebuilt, or added onto.I don't know if this sort of thing interests you or not.

I didn't spend too long there--just enough to look around and spend a few minutes in prayer. Half an hour or so.

susan001 Nov 18th, 2013 11:06 PM

Hi Irishface. Thanks for the information. I tried to decide between Lacock and Castle Combe for accommodations. CC won, but will definitely spend time in Lacock, as one of my favorite PBS series was filmed there (Cranford). War Horse (which I didn't see, but plan to before I go) was filmed in Castle Combe. I will attempt to get to Bradford-on-Avon; thank you for the information about the Saxon church. I do find that interesting, but I just may run out of time. I have two full days (and three nights from my base in CC) to see Bath, Stonehenge, Avebury and Lacock. That's quite a bit.

Almost all my accommodations are booked now; Airline ticket purchased today.

irishface Nov 19th, 2013 05:06 AM

Sounds like a marvelous trip! Want someone to schlep luggage for you? You could hide me in your carry on (NOT!) and then pull me out for carrying your stuff to the city and car. I'll even sleep in the car at night while you luxuriate in your B&B/hotel.

latedaytraveler Nov 19th, 2013 05:46 AM

Hi Susan001,

Still following along. You wrote: “I'm currently booked at a lovely seaside hotel in Daphne DuMaurier's town, Fowey in Cornwall, where I will stay 2 nights. Fowey was the inspiration behind Rebecca, a novel I taught to high school seniors many years.” Fabulous!

Did you ever read du Maurier’s short story “The Birds”? Setting is the windswept coast of Cornwall, dreary November, brooding, post WWII bleakness. I read/dissected it with my brighter 8th graders many times. It’s a powerful tale. Of course, Hitchcock totally changed the setting and focus in his movie version. The kids wanted to watch the Hitchcock flick, but I said “no way” and showed them the classic “Rebecca” instead to get du Maurier’s flavor. At first they said, “Hey, this is in black and white, man.” But then they got into it and were riveted to the film by the end.

On one of those much maligned bus tours I took of Cornwall and Devon, we had dinner not far from Plymouth across the River Tamar. Then we had a wonderful drive along the Rame Head Peninsula which was described as the “forgotten Cornwall coast.” Stunning scenery. You will also love Lacock – setting for so many period drama. The whole area is an English teacher’s dream and I look forward to reading any more details of your planned adventure.

Mimar Nov 19th, 2013 06:57 AM

OP: << I have two full days (and three nights from my base in CC) to see Bath, Stonehenge, Avebury and Lacock. That's quite a bit. >>

It really is a lot, especially with the driving and parking. I'd want 2 full days for Bath alone. Well, Susan, time to start planning your next trip.

susan001 Nov 19th, 2013 09:05 AM

Hi Irishface, I'd love to have someone schlep baggage! Might be an uncomfortable arrangement for you :-)

LateDayTraveler: I'll post my current itinerary with literary notes. Showing Hitchcock's Rebecca was a good idea as a prelude to the short story, "The Birds." With the exception of Maxim's words and storyline being changed at the end, it's a good adaptation. I recently read that Hitchcock could not risk filming in England during WWII, so they built the Manderley set, which does not follow the description in the book. DuMaurier is said to have been inspired by her residence at Menebilly (Fowey, Cornwall) and her childhood visit to Milton Hall (different location). In the novel, the house is like a character. A new version of Jamaica Inn is being filmed in England now. I'm hoping it will make it's way to Masterpiece Classics on PBS.

Mimar: I decided not to stay in Bath due to the drive in. I think I can see quite a bit in one day, and actually, I had originally planned to skip it altogether, preferring villages to cities. My main goal in Bath is not the Roman Baths, but rather taking in the backdrop for Jane Austen's Persuasion. Yes, I will visit the Baths, but hope to get in and out quickly. I do look forward to the wonderful Georgian architecture. And if I need more time there, I'll consider coming back in for a half day and seeing Stonehenge on my way to another destination.

susan001 Nov 19th, 2013 09:37 AM

So here is my current revised itinerary (since you mentioned it, LateDayTraveler):

Day 1: Fly in to Newcastle (one night airport hotel - already booked)
Day 2: Pick up rental car, drive to Alnwick to visit friends: 2 nights
Day 4: Drive to Keswick in the Lake District: 3 nights (booked)
Day 5: Take a boat ride across Derwent Water (lake) and do a trail hike
Day 6: Drive to Grasmere, revisit Wordsworth's Dove Cottage; drive to Hill Top, Beatrix Potter's house.
Day 7: Drive to Haworth, Yorkshire: 2 nights
Day 8: Revisit Bronte Parsonage (was there in '88), the church, and take a walk along the moors to Top Withins.
Day 9: Drive to York: 2 nights
Day 11: Drive to Helmsley (via scenic North York Moors route - stop at Robin Hood Bay): 1 night in Helmsley
Day 12: visit Rievaulx Abbey, the stunning 11th c. Cistercian ruin. Then drive to Bakewell in the Peak District: 3 nights
Day 13: tour the an estate and countryside with my friend who lives in the area.
Day 14: More touring of the area: Plans to visit Chatsworth (Jane Austen's Pemberley -- also used as a set in the recent Pride and Prejudice), Haddon Hall (fiming location for the newest version of Jane Eyre with Mia W.), Hathersage (Charlotte Bronte stayed with a friend there - was inspired by rumors that a man kept his wife in an attic room, and later wrote Jane Eyre).
Day 15: Drive to Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds: 3 nights (booked into a lovely hotel that used to be an English Manor home. This was a definite splurge).
Day 18: Drive to Castle Combe: 3 nights. I debated this one as it's just over an hour away from Upper Slaughter, but it does put me much closer to Bath (30 minutes away), Stonehenge (45 minutes away), Avebury and Lacock. As mentioned, Castle Combe was used in the film, War Horse (yet to see).
Day 21: Drive to Fowey in Cornwall. This will be my longest driving day of 3 hours, 15 min. I've already mapped out the route to avoid narrow roads: 2 nights. Staying in a lovely hotel with estuary views (so I can look out my hotel room window and recall DuMaurier's memorable opening line, "Last night, I dreamt I went to Manderley again).
Day 22: Visit the Daphne DuMarier Centre; take a walk around the estuary using walking paths.
Day 23: Drive to Dorchester. Stay at King's Arms hotel -- the hotel itself is described in Thomas Hardy's The Major of Casterbridge. 2 nights
Day 24: Visit Hardy's birthplace and Max Gate (the author's two homes.
Day 25: Drive to Alton: 1 night
Day 26: Visit Jane Austen's house/ museum in Chawton; drive to Basingstoke, where I meet a tour guide who will take me to other significant Austen places (her church, and places she visited). Then on to my next B&B in Newbury: 2 nights
Day 27: Visit Highclere Castle, set for Downton Abbey.
Day 28: Drive to Heathrow, return car; late afternoon nonstop flight to Los Angeles.

Almost all of my accommodations have been booked. I used Karen Brown's 2013 kindle guidebook, Rick Steves (for 2 stops), Footprint Guides (a British publication), and Internet resources including Trip Advisor, to find and book hotels in these places.

Morgana Nov 19th, 2013 09:53 AM

Days 7, 8 and 9.
I still think one night in Haworth is ample for what you want to see, and you should add another night onto York.
Looks like a great trip though.

susan001 Nov 19th, 2013 10:41 AM

Morgana, Thank you. Since you live in the area, you are probably right. I'll consider what you say, but I do remember that walk up to Top Withins taking time (a couple hours?), and I want to see all in the town at a leisurely pace without feeling rushed.

Morgana Nov 19th, 2013 10:53 AM

You should follow your instincts! We can only advise but it really is your trip.
Looking forward to the trip report.

janisj Nov 19th, 2013 11:59 AM

>>Yes, I will visit the Baths, but hope to get in and out quickly. <<

It isn't really a site one can get in and out quickly. But not to worry - w/ a full day in Bath you'll have plenty of time for the Baths, Pump Room, Abbey, all the Jane Austin atmosphere, the parks, etc. plus a nice meal. The center of Bath is very compact and absolutely everything is walkable.

I'd probably stick w/ the 2 nights in Haworth - simply because that really only gives you 1+ day there.

Your itinerary looks great.

susan001 Nov 19th, 2013 01:55 PM

Meant to type Mayor of Casterbridge not Major.

Thanks janisj for comment about Bath. Hopefully one day will be fine.

Thanks, Morgana. In '88 with a literary group I felt rushed. Making up for that this time.

carolyn Nov 19th, 2013 04:21 PM

When you are in Grasmere, do buy a slice of their gingerbread. It's the best I've ever eaten. I even bought a little recipe book with the recipe in it, but the result was nothing like the original.

susan001 Nov 19th, 2013 08:57 PM

Carolyn, I remember the gingerbread (from my '88 trip). I did get a little postcard with the recipe on it, but then lost the card! I look forward to that gingerbread!

Mimar Nov 20th, 2013 07:09 AM

There's a Jane Austen museum in Bath, somewhat ironically since she hated the place. But you'll probably want to see that and the Assembly Rooms, in addition to the sights mentioned by janis.

susan001 Nov 20th, 2013 09:09 AM

Mimar: Thanks so much. Also, I don't mention Durham in the new itinerary, but am considering stopping there. Not sure how smart it is to leave luggage in the back in a parking structure though. I think I will have something like a Ford Focus or Ford Fiesta. I believe the trunk space is exposed in those but I could be wrong.

janisj Nov 20th, 2013 09:25 AM

>>I believe the trunk space is exposed in those but I could be wrong.<<

Not to worry. Every hatchback I've ever rented in the UK had a cover over the trunk space. One can't see inside when the hatchback is down.

susan001 Nov 20th, 2013 11:55 AM

Thanks, janisj. This does help with planning!

ChgoGal Nov 20th, 2013 05:35 PM

Hi, Susan. Your trip sounds wonderful!

Re: Bakewell, I just returned from there in October and stayed at a lovely B&B. Only two rooms, so it books up quickly. I posted my review on trip advisor if you wanted to read that.
http://www.castlehillfarmhouse.co.uk/rooms.htm

Looks as though you have plenty of wonderful things to do in the Peaks, but if you and your friend were inclined, you can rent bikes and ride along the Monsal Trail. I walked it, but with less time, a bike ride would be nice, too.
http://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visit...le/monsaltrail

Also, one morning outside of the B&B, we saw a Virgin hot air balloon float by. I'm not sure I'd feel safe, but it may appeal. The countryside is so gorgeous, I think a balloon ride over it would be a wonderful experience.
http://www.virginballoonflights.co.uk

Good luck with your planning!


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