Itinerary - England
 

Hi all,

I'm in the rough planning stage of my June-July 2014 solo trip to England. I have two sets of friends there I will be visiting along the way. I'm planning to return to some literary places I visited in the north in 1988 during an English Literature Summer School. I've never really spent time in the south.

Fly into Manchester - train to York 2 nights
Train to Alnwick -- 2 nights (visiting friends here)
Train back to York, pick up car. (may need another overnight here)
Drive to Keswick, Lake District; stop at Rievaulx Abbey on the way 3 nights
Drive to Haworth (Bronte Parsonage-- and walk up to Top Wiithens) 2 nights
Drive to Bakewell (Peaks District) 3 nights (one day visiting with friend; the other touring Hathersage area, Haddon Hall and Chatsworth)
Drive to Stowe-on-the-Wold -- 3 nights (walk from village to village, and also spend a day driving around the Cotswolds)
Drive to Bath 2 nights
Drive to Dorchester - 1 night -- Thomas Hardy houses
Drive to Alton --3 nights- Jane Austen House and places she visited; Highclere Castle

Fly from Heathrow to Dublin, where I pick up an Ireland tour

I would appreciate feedback from those of you familiar with these areas; this will also my first time renting a car abroad.

wow that is one of the best itineraries I've ever seen - York is great but it is compact tourist-wise - can walk to all its many sites in a few minutes from one another - don't miss a ramble on top of the town walls. Really sweet itinerary IMO.

Thanks, PalenQ. I've been to York, and have walked around the town wall. I wasn't even going to include it this trip, then decided I should.

Mostly good -- nice amount of time in most places. But a fair bit of to-ing and fro-ing in the first half Not quite sure why you are splitting your time in York. As it is you are doing York > Northumberland > York > Cumbria > Yorkshire > and onward.

This could be arranged more effectively - Have you considered flying into EDI or GLA and starting out in w/ Alnwick at the beginning. Then the Lakes > York/Yorkshire > the Peaks . . . .

You could collect a car in Newcastle or Penrith.

Thanks so much, Janisj. This is why I posted on Fodor's. Hadn't thought of this possibility. I only added Alnwick this morning, after I heard back from my friends there (they hosted the Summer School in 1988). Now that I've checked the map, I see that this makes a lot more sense than the original plan I posted above. I'll check on getting an automatic car in Newcastle.

I'm also considering dropping Ireland and saving it for another trip. I don't have time constraints. It's just sounding a little long, and I may be ready to return home after Alton. I'll give it some thought. If I don't do Ireland, I may add a night or two in New Forest, while I'm in the vicinity. Just a thought. I've never been there.

Thumbs up to the New Forest idea. I had two nights there this past July and wish I'd had more time.
Not sure of your budget but can highly recommend the small hotel we stayed at in Brockenhurst called The Pig. Really lovely, like being in your own country house. Good food and nice staff too.

raincitygirl: I was up late last night looking at New Forest links, and did see The Pig. What a coincidence; I will look into it! Thanks so much!

Hi Susan001,

Glad to see that you have recovered from your great trip to France and are now plotting your jaunt to the UK with emphasis on literary sites.

I will be following with interest…

I'd much prefer a couple of days in the New Forest iover a rushed trek to Ireland . . .

latedaytraveler: Nice to hear from you! Oh, yes, isn't planning half the fun? I'll post a revised itinerary soon.

janisj: I tend to agree. I've never been to Ireland, and have been longing to see the Cliffs of Moher, but I suppose it can wait. I'll give this some thought.

If you're starting in Alnwick it would make more sense to fly into Newcastle

Rievaulx isn't on the way from York to Keswick, you'll be doing a detour.
Rievaulx is lovely but there are other ruined abbeys in the area - was there a specific reason for going there?

Yes - Newcastle makes sense for Alnwick - but isn't a portal from the States if that is where you are flying from.

sofarsogood: Thanks for the suggestion. This makes sense and I'm looking into it.

Morgana: National Geographic Traveler featured it once on their cover. I've been wanting to see it ever since. Yes, I know it's a detour from York, but I'm tweaking my itinerary as we speak. I may be coming from the direction of Newcastle.

janisj: If I book with British Air they will fly me into Heathrow, and from there to Newcastle. This will be the case whether I fly to Edinburgh or Manchester, as there are no nonstop flights to any of these three towns from Los Angeles.

flying from LA to Ncle you have the option of BA (change at Heathrow) KLM (change at AMS) or Air France (change at CDG).

All three airlines fly to several UK regional airports via their respective hubs. Just use kayak.com to see your options/times/prices. You don't have to use BA - Schipol is an easy airport to transfer at

Aer Lingus also flies via Dublin into Ncl

If you can get to Newcastle for a good price - then that is what I'd do.

Thanks so much sofarsogood. I'll look into these options!

Thanks, janisj. It does look like the best option.

Revised Itinerary:

Fly into Newcastle -- sleep at airport hotel.
Train to Alnwick - stay 2 nights there with friends
Train back to Newcastle, pick up car.
Drive a short distance to Durham - stay 1 night (I think my first time out with a car in UK should be a short drive).
Keswick - 2 nights
York - 2 nights (stop at Rievaulx Abbey on the way)
Haworth - 2 nights (visit Bronte Parsonage, walk to Top Withins)
Bakewell - 3 nights (visit friend; tour Hathersage, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall)
Cotswolds - 3 nights
Bath - 2 nights (visit Lacock, Castle Coomb, Stonehenge, Avebury)
Dorchester - 1 night (visit 2 Hardy homes)
Alton - 3 nights (Jane Austen places, and Highclere Castle)
New Forest -- 2 nights

I haven't decided whether I will keep or cancel the tour of Ireland which starts in Dublin. I could fly cheaply to Dublin from Heathrow and let someone else drive. But this would make a very long trip. If I decide to keep Ireland, I may drop New Forest and one other stop (York? - I've been there).

HI Susan001,

Still following your planning and salivating at all of those literary stops. Wow! I would be particulary interested in Hardy Country.

In Bath, I would recommend the HOLBURNE MUSEUM, a former hotel at the end of Great Pulteny Street. It’s one of those smaller museums that I enjoy so much – loaded with lovely Gainsborough portraits of the swells that inhabited Jane Austen’s world. Also fabulous china services of the period.

Have you been to Bath before?

Hi - your itinerary sounds really good! You might know this already, but I just wanted to note that there is no train station in Alnwick; the closest is Alnmouth. I visited last year and took a bus from Alnmouth and it was very easy. You could also take a cab I am sure, or maybe your friends will come to pick you up.

Just my personal experience: on a long trip at about day 20 I'm beginning to think I can't wait to get home to my own bed, my cat, my friends and a regular routine. However, as soon as I get on the plane, I wish that I had planned a few more days to squeeze in some more sites. (No pleasing this woman!)

So for what it is worth, I'd keep the tour of Ireland. It will be a different sort of pace and you will be meeting people. If time is not a consideration, I wouldn't drop one day from the England itinerary.

latedaytraveler: Thanks for the Holbourne Museum recommendation. No, I've never been to Bath, but I think I can see quite a bit before I depart on the 3rd day, as Dorset is not that far away. I may do a Mad Max Tour (day tours from Bath) of Stonehenge, Avebury, Lacock and Castle Coomb -- and just allow someone else to drive, while I enjoy getting to each place. What I am wondering is if 1 night in Dorechester will allow me enough time to see Hardy's houses (one in the afternoon, one the next morning, perhaps). I found an old hotel (refurbished inside) that is said to be the one Hardy describes in the Mayor of Casterbridge. Hardy is really my favorite English writer.

travelingaunta: Yes, I've done a bahn.de station to station search and noticed "Alnwick via Alnmouth." This shouldn't be a problem, especially if they meet me at the station. Thanks for your posting. Did you like Alnwick?

Irishface: I'm going to wait a few days before I book airfare. I'm just not completely sure, but I'm leaning toward dropping 2 or 3 nights and doing the Ireland tour. Now, I just have to decide what to drop.

Alnwick is fabulous. The castle is one of the best in England. the gardens are amazing, and the town is very nice too. You are lucky to have friends living there.

As for the Ireland tour -- it is your trip -- but if it was me I'd want to spend more time in Ireland and not be stuck on a guided tour. I'd personally concentrate on England this time and go to Ireland when you have time to devote to it. I wouldn't want cut back any of your destinations in oreder to squeeze in Ireland.

janisj: Thank you so much. This has been a tough call, and I appreciate your insight. It's been 25 years since I've been to England, and Ireland not at all. The tour is 14 days, and it does go to the places I want to see, but that would make a very long trip, overall. And you may be right. I might have a better time doing it on my own. I just keep hearing that the roads are narrower and scarier in Ireland. Not sure if that's true.

Thanks for the feedback about Alnwick. I can't wait!

All looks good. Don't miss Barter Books in Alnwick. My only suggestion would be have just one night in Haworth and maybe add another night to York. Or stay longer in York and do Haworth as a longish day trip. Haworth is small and you could easily do the walk and visit the Parsonage in a day.

Unless there's a reason to stay your first night at an airport hotel, it's easy to press on to Alnwick. Metro from the airport to Newcastle Central Station (30 mins) then train to Alnmouth (30 mins).

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2379743.stm

Alnmouth itself is lovely, and nearby Warkworth

Morgans: Thanks for the feedback. My first trip to Haworth in '88 was a day trip, and I actually want to stay in the town. Since it's so remote, staying two nights sounded comfortable to me for exploring. I didn't get to the church when I was there last time.

sofarsogood: I usually press on, but two things are keeping me from doing so. On my last trip I realized that it would've been better had I stayed overnight in Brussels (after a 2 leg flight) than pressing on to Bruges (where I got fowled up by incorrect postings of platforms). Also, I would be staying as a guest in Alnwick, and haven't seen my hosts in 25 years, so would want to be rested up before meeting them again.

As of this morning, I have dropped the idea of also visiting Ireland, and have added one extra night at Keswick (time for a hike one day, and a drive to Windemere, another). I also added a night to Bath and to Dorchester. So now it's looking like this:

Fly into Newcastle -- sleep at airport hotel.
Train to Alnwick - stay 2 nights there with friends
Train back to Newcastle, pick up car.
Drive a short distance to Durham - stay 1 night (I think my first time out with a car in UK should be a short drive).
Keswick - 3 nights
York - 2 nights (stop at Rievaulx Abbey on the way)
Haworth - 2 nights (visit Bronte Parsonage, walk to Top Withins)
Bakewell - 3 nights (visit friend; tour Hathersage, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall)
Cotswolds - 3 nights
Bath - 3 nights (visit Lacock, Castle Coomb, Stonehenge, Avebury)
Dorchester - 2 night (visit 2 Hardy homes)
New Forest -- 2 nights
Alton - 3 nights (Jane Austen places, and Highclere Castle)

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions and encouragement.

Looks very nice. One issue could be the car in Bath. Many central Bath B&Bs don't have parking and driving inside the city can be tough.

I'd maybe look for a place to stay in a town/village w/i a few miles of Bath instead. You can use the park & Ride lots for visiting Bath. Parking is free and the bus takes you into the very center.

I can see your reasons for wanting to stay in Haworth, although I wouldn't describe it as 'so remote', especially if you have a car. But my favourite time for a walk around the village (and especially the graveyard outside the Parsonage) is in the evening when the tourists have gone. It's still a very atmospheric place.
The walk to Top Withens is good although it can be bitterly cold and VERY windy up there even in June and July. I recall we struggled to open the car door one day, the wind was so strong!
If you are interested, Hebden Bridge isn't far away - Ted Hughes and Sylvia Plath links.
http://www.theguardian.com/uk/the-no...rkshire-poetry

As I read through the thread, I hoped you would add a night in Keswick, and now you have. This trip sounds lovely.

I understand your reluctance not to head to Alnwick on arrival but what about a hotel in Newcastle city centre? - more hotel choice and dining options than at the airport. Plus you can stretch your legs and explore Newcastle's fine Georgian architecture http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grainger_Town in the evening.

Upthread you considered dropping the New Forest. If so what about staying longer in Northumberland (with or without your friends) - there's plenty to see Hadrian's Wall, Bamburgh Castle, Dunstanburgh Castle, Holy Island, Cragside, Farne Islands http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/

So much to see so little time!

janisj: I can't thank you enough for this recommendation. I'd actually considered staying in Castle Coomb, so maybe I'll do that, visit other sites in the area, and day trip into bath using the park and ride system. THANKS, again!

Morgana, Yes, I went to Hebden Bridge with the literature group in '88, saw Sylvia Plath's gravestone (back then, it was a loose rock with her name on it; the headstone had been vandalized so many times because some people didn't want to see the name Hughes on it).

tusanifeedit: Thanks for the kind words.

sofarsogood: I know there is much to see in the area. I've been to Bamburgh Castle, Hadrian's Wall (walked 8 miles on top of it with a walking group), and Holy Island. And I must limit my time somewhere! But I will definitely take your advice and stay at Newcastle city center to at least experience the town. Thanks so much for the suggestion.

susan001, if you do decide to stay in Bath itself I can recommend The Bath House BandB, 40 Crescent Gardens, Upper Bristol Road. They have parking and it is within walking distance to the centre of town.
Lovely decor, comfy beds and a good breakfast delivered to your door. You could leave your car parked and walk everywhere.
[email protected]

Thanks, raincitygirl. I'll look into it. Did you find driving in Bath difficult?

susan I did not drive in Bath, I took the train there from Exeter but I saw that they had parking. I think if you emailed them with your concerns they would be helpful with directions etc. They were very helpful with some concerns I had.

Bath is not very big so I don't think you would have problems getting to the hotel as long as you had good directions or a GPS.
And then you really can walk all over Bath from there. (as long as you are a reasonably mobile person that is)

A friend and I did a lot of driving in England this past summer, I was the navigator and she the driver. She is Australian and used to that side of the road but from my observations I think it would not be too difficult in the smaller cities as long as you have a small car and are a competent driver.

My friend did not find it difficult at all, the only time she got a bit nervous was when we returned the car to Heathrow, but even that went off without a hitch.
I think you will be fine. It does help to have a GPS and also to study maps beforehand and have a good idea of where you are going.

raincitygirl: thanks so much for your assessment. I'm a little nervous about returning the car to Heathrow... but, I'm sure it will be okay. I do plan to buy a GPS and program it before I go. I wrote to the hotel. Thanks again! It looks like a wonderful little place.

It was a great place susan, and I was on my own there and felt very safe and comfortable.

I'm sure you will be fine dropping the car too, the main thing that rattled us a little was just the sheer volume of traffic but we followed the GPS's directions and it led us straight there, no worries.
I hope you have a wonderful trip.

Thanks so much, raincitygirl.

>>I'm a little nervous about returning the car to Heathrow... but, I'm sure it will be okay.<<

Returning the car at LHR will likely be the easiest part of the trip. The rental agencies are grouped together on the A4/Bath Road. Not hard at all.

As for driving in Bath - I do and have no problems (and know where the best/easiest access car parks are). But Bath is a compressed city w/ LOTS of traffic funneling in through a few roads plus a river/bridges that complicate things a bit.

As for the Bath House (here is the actual website http://www.thebathhouse.org/home_page_2.html ) it is in a great location in the center of town not far from Royal Victoria Park, Royal Crescent and the Circus. But getting there from the direction of the Cotswolds would be a slog through some of the most confusing bits