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-   -   Italy in March (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/italy-in-march-279588/)

wondering Jan 2nd, 2003 09:47 AM

Thanks for the input. I think we've decided we can't miss Venice! We can leave late Friday night, but then it would be too dark for the vision Helen promised! :) So, I'll stick to two days in each city, including train travel, with a more &quot;surface&quot; visit. Just one &quot;touristy&quot; thing in each city, sandwiched between some nice meals and window-shopping. I think it's doable. And still fun and maybe even relaxing - in it's own way! Any other thoughts?<BR>

Eye Spy Jan 3rd, 2003 05:43 AM

Your one night side trip to Venice is very do-able, and you and your husband have the added advantage of relaxing on the train from Milano to Venice and then from Venice to Florence. And you won't have to change trains for either destination. Just remember: do NOT get off the train at Venezia-Mestre. Make sure you stay on the train to the next stop: Venezia-Santa Lucia (end of the line). When you purchase the ticket, make sure you are on the train that stops at Venezia-Santa Lucia. Upon arrival in Venice, my suggestion is to go to your hotel from Santa Lucia station via the vaporetto No. 1 (this stops at every stop) or No. 83 (the quicker route) down the Grand Canal -- it's unforgettable if it's your first time. Then just walk around and lose yourselves in the small streets and alleyways. If the weather is OK, watch the sunset from Caffe Florian or Quadri in Piazza San Marco or go to the bar at the roof of the Danieli Hotel, just around the corner from Piazza San Marco and Palazzo Ducale. That is very special. If you have time, try to pop inside briefly at: San Zaccaria (around the corner from the Bridge of Sighs) (lovely Bellini altarpiece on your left as you walk in this church not many visit); Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (for Titian's 'Assumption of the Virgin') and Santi Giovanni e Paolo ('San Zanipolo'). These three churches are very rich in art and Venetian history. The only one that charges a modest entrance fee is the Frari. For the rest, just wander about without a map. You are on an island so you can't get lost and never be found! Going to San Zaccaria and then 10 minutes walk further north to San Zanipolo is a nice stroll. You most certainly will experience 'acqua alta' (high tide) at that time of year so be prepared to walk on planks in certain parts of the city (many hotels have rubber boots for their guests to use). And the Venetians are very polite in taking turns on the more 'popular thoroughfares' when the streets are flooded and only one person can pass at a time. Post your report when you get back. Have fun!

Karin Cummings Jan 3rd, 2003 07:37 AM

So glad you are going with your husband. I was faced with a similar choice almost two years ago. My husband had a deposition in Wales, and believe me, Wales in Feb. was not at the top of my list. I went anyway, and we had a terrific time. Have fun!

Jacqueline Bond Jan 3rd, 2003 08:35 AM

Does anyone know how long of a train ride it is between Venice and Florence?

Eye Spy Jan 3rd, 2003 08:48 AM

If you take the fast 'pendolino' from Venice-Santa Lucia to Florence-Santa Maria Novella, it's about 2.50 hours and the stops are minimal. Consult www.trenitalia.com It's really your best best and the prices are reasonable and the pendolino trains very efficient and clean.

wondering Jan 5th, 2003 05:00 AM

Thanks, Karin, for the support! I'm still a little nervous about leaving the kids, but we are going to take separate planes to ease my anxiety. I'm really excited about the trip, and spending some &quot;quality time&quot; with my husband.<BR>Bored@Work: Thanks again for your detailed replies. You've helped so much! Since you know the area so well, can I pester you for your hotel preferences? I have been doing some searching in Fodors R&amp;R, and posts here, so I have some good ideas. Just wondering about your personal experiences. Thanks again!

jack Jan 5th, 2003 05:27 AM

By all means dont miss venice.My wife and I are in our 60s and have been to venice two times and it is our favorite place in all of europe.Also the bus ride to sienna from florence is short and scenic and sienna is a great place.

Peggy Jan 5th, 2003 06:23 AM

Hotel Paganelli is very convenient and not a fortune. Stayed there once and will return in May. Venice is unbelievably wonderful. Also recommend to just walk around and get very lost. No problem. Also check at the desk of wherever you stay for possible MUSICAL concerts. Something to do at night and usually in lovely old churches and excellent. (Vivaldi)

Eye Spy Jan 5th, 2003 09:48 AM

No problem! I love talking travel. I did stay at the Hotel Paganelli in June 1999 before its renovation. It's on Riva degli Schiavoni past the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) and right around the corner from San Zaccaria. Although it was fine for me (at the time I had a single room) and price was reasonable (early June), I find their prices now to be a little higher, naturally, since they are now a 3-star. For the same price, you could stay in a nicer place. Not that the Paganelli wasn't nice; it was clean and reasonable and centrally located but still only a 2-star at the time. Check them out at www.hotelpaganelli.com. You can email them for a quote and they'll respond quickly (in English).<BR><BR>There are so many hotels to choose. Many Fodorites, myself included, will recommend shopping around on www.venere.com or www.veniceby.com. A lot of the hotels on Venere.com are cross referenced on Veniceby.com but the prices can vary between the two -- so you should compare shop. I've used Venere many times and it is wonderful and you get a confirmation right away. On Veniceby.com, if you request a rate quote, there is the option of having your request sent to a lot of properties in the area and you'll get emails from various hotels and you can choose that way (each hotel has a weblink so you can check out photos of the rooms).<BR><BR>I hope this helps you! Remember, there is a small time frame in March just after Carnivale ends when the room rates drop again. They usually start to pick up again (i.e. get more expensive) towards the end of March so shop around. I find Orbitz and Expedia quote consistently higher prices than www.venere.com or www.veniceby.com. Any other questions, just post them and I'll check Fodors -- if not Sunday (today) then Monday (Jan. 6th).

wondering Jan 5th, 2003 04:50 PM

Thanks, Bored. From the Fodors R&amp;R, I picked Hotel Spadari al Duomo in Milan and Accademia Villa Maravege in Venice to test. I couldn't find Maravege on either website, but did find Spadari al Duomo on italyby.com. Rates for the Metropole in Venice were similar on both sites, but veniceby.com seemed to quote by the day, but venere.com by the stay (TWO nights). Both were about 500EU. What do you make of that? Aaargh! This is where it starts to get tricky! Don't want to turn this into a hotel booking lesson, but do you have any suggestions? (Other than email them, which I did!) :)

Helen Jan 6th, 2003 01:19 AM

Dear Wondering - a word of re-assurance from my side - even arriving at night at the train station, will be an unforgettable experience - to walk out of that station, and see the Grand Canal in front of you! We were in Venice for 3 days, and bought the 3-day Vaporetto pass. When we were to tired to walk, we just got onto a Vaparetto, and sat back - took Venice in, and took the most beautiful pictures.<BR><BR>You got a lot of good advice (as always, from Fodorites!), so just go and enjoy!<BR><BR>Kindest regards<BR>Helen

Eye Spy Jan 6th, 2003 05:50 AM

Wondering: what are your exact dates for Venice? What is your MAX price range (TOTAL not per night). I'll see what I can find out. I'll check back here periodically throughout Monday the 6th!

wondering Jan 6th, 2003 11:29 AM

Thanks, Eye Spy! You have been so helpful. In fact, I just got in myself, and had a message directly from Academie Villa Maravege via email. They quoted me 155 EU for a small room with shower and canal view. I think that sounds good! Have you ever seen it? As long as it's clean I think it will be perfect! <BR>Do you know anything about the Hotel Spaderi al Duomo in Milan?<BR>Thank you, too, Helen, for your further encouragement! I'm really excited to experience Venice!

Eye Spy Jan 6th, 2003 11:56 AM

Wondering: Nice to hear from you that you already received a response from Villa Maravege. Here is more information on them from www.veniceby.com. http://www.veniceby.com/maravege/index.html<BR><BR>The best way for you would be to take the vaporetto upon exiting Santa Lucia station and get off at Accademia and walk the 5 minutes. Since you are in Dorsoduro, you are not too far from the Accademia bridge from which you can have a nice view of the Grand Canal (both directions) before crossing over into San Marco sestiere. I hope you have decent weather for pictures! Even if you are in Venice for only one day and night, please do not hesitate to visit all these places on your stroll. They can all be visited on your quick day and if you look on a map, follow one complete loop: Accademia bridge to Piazza San Marco, stroll part of Riva degli Schiavoni to San Zaccaria. Visit San Zaccaria briefly and walk north to Santi Giovanni e Paolo church (San Zanipolo). Then towards Rialto. Over Rialto to the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (&quot;Frari&quot;) church -- you have to see Titian's Assumption!, back through Campo San Barnaba to your Pensione. You may want to have a drink around Campo Santa Margarita in Dorsoduro or better yet, either watch the sunset over San Marco from either Quadri or Florian or go to the Danieli terrace or Gritti Palace for two completely overpriced cocktails but a spectacular view you'll never forget!<BR><BR>I have never stayed at the Hotel Spadari in Milan but it is a 4* close to the Scala and friends I know stayed there and loved it. You'll have a nice time there I'm sure. In Milan, try to do some of the things I posted earlier. At the very least, you should go inside the Duomo, try to go to the top (weather permitting) and stroll through Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II. I love the art museums and the Biblioteca Ambrosiana but you may not have enough time for all that. Try to buy an article of clothing or something in Milan. It's not Italy's (and arguably the world's next to Paris) fashion capital for nothing! The Milanese are quite the stylish bunch (aren't they all?). Have a great trip and post your trip report when you return so we can hear how you liked it.

mary Kay Jan 7th, 2003 02:33 PM

Wondering:<BR><BR>You wil love the hotel you've booked in Venice. We stayed there in Oct '01 and loved it. It is beautifully appointed and charming, with lovely furniture and fabulous bathrooms. Great breakfast room, also. Enjoy your trip!<BR><BR>Mary Kay

wondering Jan 9th, 2003 05:02 PM

Thanks, Mary Kay, I'm glad to hear a good report. And surprisingly, they quoted me at $155 EU, which is lower than indicated in my research. On the other hand, quotes for the Spadari al Duomo in Milan have come in higher than I expected - around 238-288 EU per night. Can anyone confirm that sounds about right?


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