Ireland trip help
 

Initially my husband and I were planning a trip to Belgium/Netherlands, but after looking at Ireland again, decided a trip to Ireland was in our summer future. We are both in our late 50's. We enjoy history, sightseeing, meeting the locals and dislike very crowded places. We are planning to leave on June 13 and departing on June 23. These are approximate dates and can be changed. I have poured over the forums and have become more confused than ever! We would fly into Dublin and rent a car. It looks like the south and west and north coast are all beautiful! Would probably drive down toward the Wicklow mountains while near Dublin. I have heard that it gets very crowded to the south, around the ring of Kerry - is that so in mid June? I have seen that the west coast looks interesting around Galway, Sligo area and the Donnegal area to the north looks great. The north coast seems interesting as well. So, how do we choose where to go? This is where I am looking for advice from you all. You have helped me plan my trips to Paris, Germany, San Antonio, etc. I value all of your opinions greatly. Thanks so much.

With ten days at your disposal, seven/eight for travelling around the country if you allow some time for Dublin, then you need to opt for a southern loop or a tour of the northwest and west.
Travelling back from Shannon would give you a better end point to either trip, saving the journey back to Dublin.

Going south, Wicklow would be your first port of call to get in your first instalment of Irish scenery combined with the historical monastic site in Glendalough.
Kilkenny would also appeal to your interest in history with the Butler Castle, St Canice's Cathedral,Rothe House etc.
Onward to Lismore with its castle, the old town of Youghal, Cobh - another cathedral and a Titanic exhibition, and then on to Ireland's second city Cork.
The coastal route from Cork can take in towns and villages such as Kinsale, Clonakilty, Union Hall, Bantry, Baltimore, Glengariff.
Reaching Kenmare gets you on the Ring of Kerry, not likely to be overcrowded in mid June. Doing almost the full circuit will get you to Killarney, a town not always to everybody's taste - especially if you are averse to the company of fellow tourists. Pity to miss out on the lakes though.
If you decide to miss out on Killarney, then you can divert northwards at Glenbeigh and head for Dingle, a town on one of the coast's most scenic peninsulas.
A final instalment of the trip could take in the Tarbert to Killimer ferry to bring you into County Clare - top attractions: Cliffs of Moher, Bunratty Castle, the Burren.
Plus Shannon Airport.

The northern loop would have to start with the ancient sites at Knowth and Newgrange, just north of Dublin.
Onward in a northwesterly direction to check out the lakeland beauty of County Fermanagh and moving on to Donegal - Glenveigh, Sliabh League cliffs, Ardara.
Sligo is a relatively small county but you can check out Drumcliffe (Yeats grave - Cast a cold eye....),Ben Bulben, Lissadell House as you transit through to County Mayo.
Achill Island (there is a connecting bridge) and Westport town are two of the most popular spots in Mayo although if time allowed, a day trip out to one of the islands such as Clare Island or Innisbofin would be worth the effort.
Connemara and Galway city lie between you and Shannon airport, although it is now feasible to get from Galway city to Dublin airport in less than 3 hours thanks to a motorway link.
If you choose to use Shannon, you have the added option of seeing the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher on the final day of your tour.

You've received some great ideas in the above post. Just a note, Lismore Castle is still a home and, unless it has changed recently, does not have visitors, but its gardens are open to the public a few afternoons a week. They are lovely. If you are coming into town from Wicklow area, the castle is a wonderful view from the road for photographs.

Wow SeeDee! what excellent information and itinery.
This is not my post but I too will be visiting Ireland in September, so I am saving your ideas and suggestions.

Sorry yellowrose477 for jumping in on your post.

See Dee - What great ideas! I am happy to hear that in mid June there won't be as many tourists as a bit later in the summer. I am going to get out the guidebook and print off your ideas and huddle up with with hubby for some Irish time tonight. No problem aussie, I will share! The cost isn't a factor coming back from Shannon, but dual stops in Newark and OHare before arriving in MSP make for a really long flight home, so I'm thinking it will probably be more feasible to fly Dublin both ways. Are the roads on the ring of Kerry scary to drive. I get kind of scared at times thinking I am going to fall off scary mountain roads and not used to driving on the other side of the road has me a little worried. Are there guardrails on the roads? Thanks -

Just googled Lismore. Gardens open every day from midMarch to Sept 30, 11am-4:45 p.m. Last admission 4 pm. I loved these gardens-just my thoughts.

IMO Ring of Kerry was not scary to drive. Rick Steves says to go clockwise to avoid busses. I have done both directions. I prefer counterclockwise as it puts you on the inside lane as you drive on the left. I have not found busses to be an issue. I either started midday after they had set out or early long before they set out. Most set out between 9 and 10, in my experience.

I loved being able to stop at will for lunch, snacks, photo ops, etc. One place I really enjoy is the Staigue Fort, a prehistoric ring fort with walls 12 feet high and thick enough for rooms. It is located in a farmer's field a few miles off the main road. The road is too narrow for busses so you are apt to be on your own there. There is an honesty box by the parking spot (small) for your admission fee (modest).

One one of my visits a tour bus full of French tourists had parked on the main road and let its passengers out to walk up. None of them were young. As we drove in, they were leaving. On our way out, one of the gentlemen (at least in his eighties)flagged us down and asked if we could possibly take his wife back. We made room for her in the car and could have taken him too, but he stubbornly insisted on walking. I had a bit of a chat in my very rusty French with the lady. We got back to her bus and the driver was sleeping so we had to bang on the door to get him to let her in. I bet he thought he was good for a couple of hours and didn't seem too pleased to see one of his charges back so soon.

Great post, seedee!

I am leaning toward the northern loop of seedee's post. I would love to see some castles, but from looking at the forum it appears like there are castles everywhere! Looking at the northern loop post, how many home bases would you recommend? Would we travel to a new place everyday, or could we be on one place for a couple of nights and do day trips?

Only too happy to put some flesh on the bones of the "Northern Loop".
Leaving Dublin in the morning,you have a conveniently tightly packed number of historical sites to explore in the area around Drogheda and Slane - Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth ancient sites; Slane Castle; site of the famous Battle of the Boyne; Mellifont Abbey, north of Drogheda.
That should satisfy your appetite for ruins/burial mounds for the day so I would make tracks cross country to take care of another appetite. Blacklion is a little out of the way on the map but you will probably enjoy the meal of your trip if you manage to bag a table at McNean Restaurant, where one of Ireland's premier young chefs, Neven Maguire, has his own restaurant. Rooms are available to overnight in (with a suitably historic breakfast to send you on your way) but advance booking is absolutely essential, especially for Friday and Saturday. macneanrestaurant.com

Leaving Blacklion in the morning leaves you with the Fermanagh lakelands to explore - Florence Court house and gardens, Marble Arch caves, the monastic island of Devenish, plus the town of Enniskillen. The Killyhevlin Hotel there is quite popular.
If you did not opt to overnight in Enniskillen, you could press on to Beleek to check out the ceramic factory and shop there and cross into County Donegal. If time permitted, you could drive on past Donegal town to Dunkineely(road to Killybegs) and stay in Castlemurray House.

I would use this as a base to see some of Donegal, so two nights would be advised. In one day touring, you could see as much as the county as stamina permits but at least see the pretty village of Ardara (drop into Nancy's pub) and the cliffs at Sliabh League.

You face southwards the next morning, direction Sligo but unless you have any long stops en route you could make it to Westport for possibly another two night stay. There is a pleasant newly opened cycle way from Westport towards Achill Island if you care to get out from behind the wheel for a day. The full journey would be a shade ambitious but Mulranny is under 20 miles with a nice hotel for lunch - and the bike rental people will ferry you back by minibus.
Alternatives would be the Clare Island ferry from Roonagh for a stroll around the island or a trip to Achill Island by car.

Time to take a breath and count your nights..... 5 down, 3 to go by my calculations.
Perhaps a third night in Westport then, using it as a base to drive to Clifden and explore the Inagh valley on your way back.

Alternatively, base yourselves in Galway city for your last three nights, leaving you within three hours of Dublin Airport for your return.

Galway city is always buzzing over the summer (usually some festival beginning or ending) and is a base for tours to both the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands. You might feel like having a rest day from driving so I would go for the bus option to see the Burren and the cliffs. Aer Arann do an 8 seater plane service from their facility near Rossaveal that gets you over to the Aran Islands in a matter of minutes. Seeing Dun Aonghus fort, on a cliff edge on Inishmore is a sight you are not likely to forget.

Since you are going in June - I would suggest doing a Northern Route.. then if you can visit again in the winter months ( which I have done 6 times ) then do the southern route... one thing Ireland will do to you is make you want to come back.... just to warn you :) Also - I suggest a few days in Northern Ireland - then end up in Donegal and follow the coast down until a day before you need to get back to your airport... we visited Eyna's father's pub in Gweedore ( just north of Donegal )... Ireland is magical :)

Would Glendalough Monastery in County Wicklow and Trim Castle be able to be worked in fairly easily with the northern loop we have been discussing?

Glendalough would be best done as a day trip out of Dublin by bus; no need to rent your car until you are ready to go touring. The airport is served by Aircoach which drops off passengers at a number of city centre locations.

You can use the same service to return to the airport to collect your hire car. From the airport, you have a quick run up the M1 motorway to Monasterboice where you visit Mellifont Abbey. From there, you move to Newgrange, then Slane Castle.

Trim Castle is easily incorporated into your tour as you simply drive to Navan and Trim is not far from there. Travelling onward to Blacklion, you simply return to Navan and take the N2, direction Cavan. In terms of driving time, you should do the Trim-Blacklion leg in under two and a half hours.

I have heard some people mention Dan Dooley as a car rental place. Is he at the airport or in Dublin? I looked and my credit card does not cover cars in Ireland! Anybody know the difference between the super CDW insurance and regular insurance? Thanks. Thanks SeeDee for all your help. I am feeling much more grounded. Do you live in Ireland?

Living in Ireland leaves me poorly equipped to advise on the complications of car rental. Dublin Airport has all the major rental companies, Dan Dooley included, and there is a website dublinairportcarrental.com to help you get a competitive quote online.

Your are right! Living in Ireland would make you a poor source for car rentals as you don't use them! How far is the airport, driving time, from the main city of Dublin?

Driving time into the city from the airport is about 20 minutes - but not a great idea for the uninitiated. My 2012 Valentine/wife, a driver for 25 years but a native of the west of Ireland, has yet to take on the challenge of driving in our capital city.

Save yourselves two days rental fees and either taxi into town (expect to pay about €25)or use Aircoach (€7 pp).

Driving in the rest of Ireland has its moments but you must understand that Dublin's streets were not designed with motor cars in mind; this is not improved by the planners current enthusiasm to promote the use of public transport. Your steady and sedate progress is liable at any time to be undone by the sudden appearance of the Lana Bus (bus lane, to those unfamiliar with the Irish language), a no-go area for cars other than taxis. These lanes force ordinary motoring mortals to squeeze into a single lane at relatively short notice - no problem to regular road users, familiar with lay out but not much fun trying to change both gear (manually)and lane while coping with a touch of jet lag.

Another factor re taking a rental car into Dublin, you will be very fortunate if you can get city centre accommodation that will not charge you a minimum of €15 for 12 hours overnight parking.

You all are making me want to go back to Ireland, but we can no longer go, after about a dozen trips, because we've passed the age where we can rent a car. I did hear they raised it from 70 to 75, but that too has passed us by. (yet we can rent almost anywhere else!!)

I drove on your side of the road when I was in Scotland a few years back. Are your roads outside of the cities similar at times to the highlands? I had a few scary moments, but got the car back with nary a scratch on it. We will certainly take your advice and not rent until we are ready to leave Dublin. I think it's a great idea to use public transport and save some money and nerves. :)

I would not anticipate you having driving difficulties, if you have managed the roads in the Scottish Highlands. The more remote areas of Donegal and Connemara can have some narrow roads but most road users (local) are courteous and fairly slow moving on minor roads.

Regarding car rental, I would add that if you are unaccustomed to driving on the left, then cut your challenges drastically by renting an automatic transmission. Also, some advise carefully examining the car before you leave the rental reporting any noticed damage to the company official. I have also read others advise that you remove the hubcaps and place them in the trunk as you are likely to lose one or more along your journey from hitting curbs. This in fact did happen to us! For sure it is worth the extra money to rent an automatic and don't size-up on your needs. The roads can be very narrow and you'll regret having the biggest car available. Opt for smaller rather than larger. Enjoy your trip!

Dan Dooley is great - they will pick you up at the airport. They guarantee the rate they book you at, no hidden surprises. Michele has a great thread on Car Rental in Ireland on her forums at www.irelandyes.com.

There are some great advisements above by all! We recently went to Ireland for our 4th trip, and I'm already planning my 5th. We did the northern route and then the southern route (18 days) so feel free to go through for some ideas.

As SeeDee said, no need for a car while IN Dublin. It's a pain to drive there and park there. Glendalough is one of my favorite places in Ireland, but much more enjoyable in the early morning or late afternoon, after most of the tourists have gone. However, if you're doing a day trip tour out of Dublin, that's likely not an option.

One thing I noticed in mid-June is that, even though most American tourists aren't there yet, the Italian schoolchildren tours are EVERYWHERE. They are quite loud and boisterous, as well. Just a fair warning :)

Just plan the trip with the understanding that you'll be back some day, and there is no way to see all you want to do in one trip. It will make you much happier! Ireland is indeed addicting, you'll be back.

I am so appreciative of all the good advice I am getting. Taking off the hubcaps is a great idea. I did rent an automatic in Scotland and plan to do the same in Ireland. There is enough to think about without shifting with the left hand as well! Now my next plan is to start trying to find places to stay. I always agonize over this! We are planning on doing B&B's out of Dublin, but would it be best to do a hotel while we are in Dublin? Thanks

Re: hubcaps, just take four of those nylon ties (we used to call them oilfield ties) and affix the hubcaps to the wheel. I took a pack last trip and then found someone else had beaten me to it so I still have the ties.

Re accommodation in Dublin - thanks(?) to the property crash, a number of four star hotels were purchased in Dublin by ambitious developers whose grand plans are now no more. The result? These are now reopened and being operated purely to maintain some cash flow - offering rooms at non-commercial rates.
Checking today, there are double rooms on offer at the D4Berkeley, a former 4 star located in Ballsbridge, for €79 per night. A 2 night Sunday/Monday package is even better value at €109. This area is served by Aircoach from Dublin Airport. www.d4hotels.ie

In general, the B&B business is being pushed hard on price by the number of three star hotels that are struggling to survive. They cannot compete of course where the personal touch that a friendly landlady can provide.

Checking online for accommodation in June in the Donegal area, we have stayed in Castle Murray House - lovely sea shore location, nice restaurant - and they are quoting a 2 night B&B plus one dinner for €180. www.castlemurray.com

Better value is a small favourite place of mine in the small village of Kinlough, close to the town of Bundoran. Not your average Irish B&B as the owner Piero hails from Sardinia, the rooms are simply furnished but the downstairs restaurant does lovely food. They are quoting a 2 night B&B plus 1 dinner for just €100 pp. www.thecourthouserest.com

You should be able to find lots of recommendations for B&B's in the Westport and Galway areas on this site or Tripadvisor.

jaja wrote: "Re: hubcaps, just take four of those nylon ties (we used to call them oilfield ties) and affix the hubcaps to the wheel."

Take five, in case you have to change a wheel. And be sure to have a knife or scissors to cut the tie if the need arises.

I didn't realize that Ireland had experienced the same property crash that we had in the US. Happened right when we wanted to sell our house - needless to say we are in the same house. Anyway - thanks for the recommendations - I will check out some of the links after work. Good to know that some of the hotels are now competing with the B&B's. Need to sit down with hubby and plan a route so I have a better idea where we will be and how many lodgings I need to book. Seedee, I like your post where we can have a couple of nights in the same place and do some day trips. Will be more restful I'm sure.

I have been studying my new map. I am wondering if we were to go spend a couple of nights in Dublin - pick up a car and head toward Enniskillen for a couple of nights, Donnegal for a couple more and then Galway - would these locations be good bases for day trips?

Just about any place can be good for a couple of nights, but I think there are better options than Enniskillen. In addition, because it is in Northern Ireland, you get into the minor complication of using a different currency.

You could head straight for south Donegal (bit of history; lots of good scenery); thence through Sligo (lots of history; good scenery); follow a somewhat coastal route (very scenic) through county Mayo into Connemara (also scenic, but different) and on to Galway.

Is going from Dublin to south Donegal in one day a viable option? Of course allowing along the way for sightseeing?

I am guessing its about 3 1/2 hours straight...maybe 145 - 150 miles ?? I would say you should be able to do it with sightseeing included along the way... in regards to the currency difference in Northern Ireland, last year when we were traveling from Ireland to Northern Ireland ( with no intentions of an overnight ), we found ourselves in Coleraine and I just got sterling from the ATM across the street from our hotel... and I must say - Coleraine was a delight, an unexpected detour..Northern Ireland and its people are so warm and friendly... have you considered if you are headed north, to see Giant's Causeway, Carrick a rope bridge, Dunlace Castle, Bushmills Distillery ? They are all in one area but it would take a few days to see them all...but all worth seeing...

and if you decide to do this route and then head to Donegal - and if you are a fan of Enya - her father's pub is in Gweedore near Bloody Foreland.. The north will not be as crowded as the south in June also ...If you go to the Connemara area, I highly recommend Matt Malloy's in Westport.. he is the flutist for the Chieftains..great trad music and Kylemore Abbey is something to see and that is in that area... Also - Ashford Castle in Cong.. I think you have to stay there to see it, but it is worth splurging on...to say you slept in a castle :) and it is beautiful...

yellowrose477 wrote: "Is going from Dublin to south Donegal in one day a viable option? Of course allowing along the way for sightseeing?"

Yes. It's mostly a good road, much of it dual carriageway. Sightseeing possibilities on the route include Trim Castle, Enniskillen, Belleek Pottery. Some of the route through the midlands is not particularly scenic, but you do get some good views of Lough Erne in the latter part of the journey.

Many traders in NI, particularly in the border regions, are willing to accept euros, and are not severe on exchange rates, so if you make a stop for food or whatever, it is worth asking before you trouble yourself with seeking sterling.

I will also tell you that the north, and Donegal, is stunning and beautiful. We stayed in Ardara, and were delighted with the area.

If you are only passing through NI, just use your CC for gas or food, no real need for Sterling.

Definitely try to make it to the North Antrim coast. It's stunningly beautiful and unspoilt - not just the Giant's Causeway the whole coast from Portrush through Carrick-a-rede, Ballintoy, Ballycastle and down the Antrim coast road is worldbeating. Believe me Don't miss it. It's one of Ireland's gem. Travel writer Paul Theroux rated it as one of the best three drives in the world. Honest. I'm biased, yes, but the people are some of the warmest in the world also. Check it out

I have been reading more on the Antrim coast. It sounds beautiful. I got a new Ireland book tonight and it has some great information in it and divides the areas of Ireland up in easy to understand pictures and language. It actually says that along the "rugged coast of Donegal is some of Ireland's wildest scenery." It's so easy to get confused about wanting to see too much and do too much. If we headed to the Antrim coast along to Donegal and down to Galway - where would you recommend spending nights?

Sounds a fantastic route - you would also pass through Sligo and connemara (part of Co Galway and which is absolutely incredible). Best idea would be to speak to the tourists boards, north and south, and discuss accommodation. There's a good hotel in Bushmills on the north Antrim coast,home to world-famous distillery and close to the Giant's Causeway. Also on the way up the coast road there is the Londonderry Arms at Carnlough, a small fishing port. Avoid Larne on the way up. There are loads of good hotels in Donegal (Ballyliffin and Carrigart) and in Galway and in Connemara. I think it would be a wonderful driving trip without being too hectic. You are probably talking about 300 miles from Dublin to Belfast, up the North Antrim Coast then Donegal, Sligo and Galway. From Galway you cross Ireland across the flat midlands. It's not an interesting journey but takes only 6 hours and gets you back to your starting point quickly. Don't want to appear too much of a know it all but I am Irish and know these areas well. To sum up, I would spend nights in Belfast, Carnlough or Bushmills, Donegal (2 nightss) Connemara, and Galway (County Fermanagh, adjacent to Donegal, is also va ery pretty lakeland area) Don't try too much. Good luck. By the way, these areas are unspoilt and not too touristy.

Travel time Galway - Dublin Airport should be about 3, not 6, hours as it now is all by motorway.

Curious as to why you want to avoid Larne? Lovely cemetery there, I took lots of photos :) We stayed in Cushendall at the Riverside B&B http://www.theriversidebandb.com/- fantastic place, on main street, very clean and lovely. The host had been a merchant marine and was a wealth of tales.

In Donegal, we stayed in Ardara, at the Bayview Countryhouse B&B http://www.bayviewcountryhouse.com/ - about a half mile out of town, huge rooms, great views. Several nights of great craic at Nancy's Bar.

Green Dragon - we don't want to avoid anything - I will check out Larne. This is why I am asking questions - to find great places to see and stay. stemplar1 - thanks for your input. When I get off work tonight I will do a little more research and looking at my map. I appreciate all of the ideas that you are all giving me. It helps make planning much easier.