Ireland Lessons Learned
 

I got a lot of help from this message board, so I thought I would give back a little.

My husband and I just returned from a 10 day trip to Ireland - Oct 1-10. Flew in and out of Dublin, rented a car, and worked out our itinerary on the fly except for 1st and last nights' accommodation. Here are some lessons learned from our trip:
- Should have flown into Dublin and out of Shannon or skipped Dublin altogether. I enjoyed Dublin, but I don't think it was worth all of the driving it added, since most of our interest was on the west coast.
- Did the Musical Pub Crawl in Dublin the first night - great introduction to traditional Irish music. http://www.discoverdublin.ie/musicalpubcrawl.html. Reservations are recommended, but we showed up and got in via the wait list.
- Probably should have bought the Irish Heritage Card. Not sure if it would have gotten us into everything, but it seemed like most of the interesting ruins, etc., charged admission, and we got "euro-ed" to death at these.
- We enjoyed the Cahir Castle much more than the Rock of Cashel, but the castle got very little mention in the guide books.
- Loved Doolin. If you're into music, this is a slam dunk. We almost skipped it because of bad reviews. I'll bet it gets ugly during the heavy tourist season, but off season it was great. Music in all three pubs every night and great pub grub. Also beautiful scenery - Cliffs of Moher and the Burren.
- Dingle was a bit of a disappointment. The scenery was beautiful, and there were plenty of pubs, but it was chock full of Americans, both tourists and residents. It just didn't feel like Ireland to me - maybe we should have picked Connemara or Mayo instead. We stayed two nights anyway and had a great time - just didn't realize it was so touristy.
- We could have spent more time in Killarney National Park. We love to hike, and there was plenty to keep us busy for 2-3 days. However, didn't think the pub scene there was the best.
- Dublin hotels. We stayed in the Pembroke Townhouse in Ballsbridge - good location, good rates, nice hotel! The last night we stayed at the Clontarf Castle Hotel. Although it was a nice hotel, I thought it was a rip-off because they advertise it as having been built in 1147. Actually, it was a castle then, but it was torn down and rebuilt in the 1800's. I have stayed in US hotels older than this. The rooms are actually in an annex - not even part of the castle. The food was just so-so.
- Loved Cork. I could easily have skipped Dublin and let Cork be my urban Ireland experience. They had a great music scene, both traditional and otherwise, and the people were among the friendliest that we met. Lots of shopping, too, and not tourist-oriented.
- Driving was a pain, but I would still recommend it. The cities are poorly marked with street signs and street names change on a whim. It also takes forever to get places, and we spent more time in the car than we expected.
- Hiking. As I mentioned, we love to hike, but we found it difficult to get information on hikes once we were at destinations. The Irish call hiking "walking" or "climbing". I wish that I had done more research beforehand so that we didn't waste so much time trying to get this information on the trip.
- Pub food was almost universally awesome. We found that most restaurants were more expensive and no better than the pubs - for both lunch and dinner.

Anyway, we had a great time. Found traditional Irish music every night of the trip - loved it! I hope these tips are helpful to anyone planning a trip!

Thanks robinja for the great info. Will definitely look into the Dublin Music Pub Crawl We are going in the off-off season (February) and we are also hikers. That may not be the best walking weather but if you have any other information or recommendation on hikes in the west and southwest I'd love to hear about it. Also any other specific recommendations on the pubs and music would be appreciated.

robinja - I agree with almost all of your comments, especially the part about skipping Dublin. We felt the same way, it wasn't until we got to the west coast that we really felt we had "arrived" in Ireland. Also agree with you about Cahir Castle. That was one of our highlights.

I'm 3 years late but trying to "give some back" to the helpful folks here. I think the stonework tower around the fireplace at Clontarf Castle may be part of the original. We were booked there for one night 9/11/2001. It was a great shock to us to discover we were stranded having expected to fly out the next morning. The hotel staff was/were wonderful. It was 4 days before I could reach Alaska Airlines. We had been ticketed Aer Lingus, BA, then AK Air. As it turned out it was a week before we could fly. After 2 or 3 nights at the castle, my husband booked a cheaper spot for us. That turned out to be so incredibly depressing that we came back to Clontarf for our last 2 nights. Our last night at dinner we met a wonderful retired couple who had flown to the states many times. We also spent many afternoons walking around the neighborhood and running into locals. I have nothing but favorable memories of Clontarf Castle although I understand your "annex" concerns. I don't usually book at spots where the tour buses do. That time it was good that I had.

What a fabulous list! Thanks ever so much for posting!

Chiming in to say "yes" to Connemara - I think that it was one of my favorite places. We spent 3 nights in Clifden, exploring the area - enjoyed it much more than Dingle, as well.

robinja:

On walking - or "hiking" as you quaintly call it - in Ireland (the term really does sound very 1930s).
You're right that tourist offices aren't very good on this. Others may disagree, but I'd suggest there are two reasons.

1. The best place for information is usually bookshops: there are a number of "Lots of good walks in Ireland" style books in real bookshops (admittedly easier to find in Dublin or Cork than in many more tourist-oriented places where "bookshops" just sell two airport thrillers and a shelf full of 'Ireland of the Welcomes' photalbums)

2. Actually, Ireland's surprisingly disappointing for serious walking. It's never developed England's wonderful system of footpaths, property ownership makes formal trails difficult to create, it's increasingly difficult simply to walk across private farms etc, and the traditional solution in Ireland - just walk along the hundreds of thousands of miles of deserted roads - is getting more and more unpleasant and dangerous with rising affluence and car ownership. The real reason many tourist offices are hopeless about walking is that there aren't any decent walks in much of Ireland any more.

A lot of people assume that if they visit Ireland they have got to vist Dublin but like any city Dublin does not really represent life as it is lived by the majority of Irish citizens.

I have friends and family in Dublin and it is fast becoming the new Ibiza. Full of stag and hen night pub crawlers and clubbers arriving from all over Europe to get absolutely blind drunk and create trouble. Many families are moving away from Dublin to get away from the drug problems which have escalated beyond belief and the violent drug related crimes.

Don't be fooled by the usual pictures of Trinity College etc into thinking that Dublin is some sort of romantic city like Paris. If you want to experience beauty in Ireland go any where but Dublin. You'll enjoy the scenery more and you'll be helping the smaller local communites who could do with your Euros a lot more that drink and drug soaked Dublin.

Buzzy

Buzzy ...
Your comments are outrageously exaggerated !
Cleary, you have never been to Ibiza, to draw the same comparison is silly. I wonder if you've even been to Dublin !
Dublin has a very lively social scene, particulary on w/e's ... particularly aimed at the local younger set ... and it's not for the faint hearted. Drinks and drugs are high on the agenda, much like it is for kids in most cities in the world. What makes it seems worse in Dublin is that the city is so compact... it's difficult to avoid.
Dublin is a beautiful and interesting destination to visit. The city offers a wealth of theatrical and music productions ... it's not all hens and stags. (In fact, there are very few).
So many Americans come to Dublin expecting a twee irish theme park, only to discover it is a major European city, unique in many ways, yet just like any major city when it comes to high prices, crowded streets, traffic congestion, crime and drugs.
Most families moving away from Dublin city, are doing so to afford housing, not to escape violent crime and drug addicts.

Be realistic, not hyperbolic.

You've actually just confirmed everything I said you just didn't like the way I said it. Re: people moving out of Dublin I know families who have done this to get their children away from the scene I mentioned above. Re: the stagg and hen parties I know of groups who have gone on these organised trips and they are becoming a quick way to go somewhere to binge drink especially for the English although now other Europeans are joining in. It has been coined the "new Ibiza" amongst this particular English set. The fact is that many people coming to Ireland are not necessarily seeking red haired people in thatched houses but are certainly not seeking what Dublin has to offer.

For a little extra information all my family comes from Ireland stretching back generations, all my husbands family originate from Dublin and many are still there I also have many friends and relations in Waterford, Wexford, and Wicklow. My own mother lives in Enniscorthy Wexford.

Buzzy

Dublin is a modern European city and is becoming more and more like an American city every year.Bit by bit they are knocking down the ancient parts of the city and building modern office blocks.The tourist trade is becoming less significant as other businesses take over.According to a report I read in a British newspaper recently Dublin in two years time will be the second richest area in Europe,(the city of London being the richest) so cheap accomodation and cheap meals are a thing of the past.

I second Doolin as a must visit for visitors to Ireland. When I was in Doolin, I heard and experienced traditional Irish folk music, much of it done in impromptu sessions in the pubs. In Dublin, all I got to hear was Irish redos of Jimi Hendrix.

Buzzy while I appreciate your impression/view I must come to the defense of Dublin as I have lived here for 9 years before and after the Celtic Tiger Economy.

The comparison to Ibiza is hiliarious and so untrue. I have a feeling the only place you fgo out is in Temple Bar which is the only place that will really still tolerate the "wild" hens and stags. A typical hen night from abroad would probably not be allowed into Cafe en Seine or the Morrison if the were dressed up in outfits and loudly drunk. Many years ago Temple Bar banned Stags (they were easier on hens)that came over from other countries because there were too many problems and fights and hassle towards women in the pubs . I have been on the receiving end of it a few times in the past myself. They died down as no more than 2 blokes could enter a pub or they would be thought of as stags if they were not Irish. They are back now but seemed to be contained in a few pubs and restaurants in Temple bar. Dubliners tend to go abroad or to the countryside for hens/stags.

There is a tiny club scene here compared to Europe. More crappy discos unless you go to Spirit or the POD etc. This may changes as closing hours may be brought back earlier and kill this scene completely. We don't go out clubbing the same way people do in London etc. The scene does not exist like that or on that scale.

People moving away...People are moving to the suburbs beacuse its cheaper but a large portion of the population lives in and around Dublin. Most capitals have the larger population due to work and international companied that set up and create jobs. I know of 1 person who moved away and it was because she wanted to move back to her home in Cork. Its more likely that a country person will move back over a period of time but Dubliners born and bred stay.

Drugs...There is a large problem in the countryside compared to Dublin. Kids are bored and have too much time on their hands and experiment...same in the countryside in the U.S. The population is approx 4 million I think and 25% of the country lives in and around Dublin. Most violent crime here is not linked to Drugs unless you are thinking of the people who import and sell into the country which are lifetime criminals that always existed and still do in EVERY country. If there is money to be made some ejit will always do it.

My family too comes from Dublin, Clare, Leitrim, Cavan etc. SO I do have a feel for outside Dublin as well. Dublin is NOT Paris but there is a really lovely side that you don't know. Maybe we keep the best for ourselves and not all revolves around the city centre. Have you been to the rose Gardens in St Anns? Killiney beach for a picnic on a hot day, the Iveagh Gardens (The secret Garden as My neighbors daughter calls it) and just chill with a book and some cheese and crackers from Sheridans. Coffee in the Chester Beatty Library or mint tea and unusual gifts for people in the giftshop. Salsa on Tuesdays or watching salsa/tango with a glass of Barbera wine outside the enoteca in the new Bloom quarter on the weekends. That's my Dublin.

There is a lot of culture here but most visitors want to get pissed and buy crap in the leprechaun stores to take home as gifts. The countryside is lovely and do see it I go away every 2 months for a weekend in the countryside but Dublin is great too and we have a lot to see and history as well.

P.S. I Live in the City Centre of Dublin and go out for dinner or drinks every weekend and walk the city every day/evening so I feel I do know what I am talking about. I live it good and bad every day :-).

When I say pissed I mean drunk! Not angry :-)

Travelling to Ireland this spring with my 18 year old daughter. We are renting a car and plan on driving. We were trying to decide if we should stay one or two nights in Dublin but after reading your remarks I might just stay in Dublin for a night and head west. We aren't really interested in the clubs and would rather experience rural Ireland. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Wait a minute...let's don't bash Dublin! Thanks, leisa, and I was indeeed waiting for some defense from SiobhanP. So you want beautiful scenery? OK, go west. But let's not paint things too idyllically green! Maybe some nice pubs, but I also like Temple Bar itself.

Yes, Dublin is to Ireland what Madrid is to Spain or Athens to Greece. These are CITIES with lots of traffic and noise...and that also means some wonderful historic places and museums. Who would want to miss the Prado or the Acropolis?

I am very glad we took in the Writer's Museum, Kilmainham Gaol, Book of Kells at Trinity, Christ Church Cathedral (including Evensong, also Dubliana), Abbey and Gate Theatre performances, and more. Also trips south to Wicklow and Glendalough, and north to Knowth/ Newgrange, Tara, Trim castle, etc.

When you come to Missouri please do enjoy the sights in St. Louis before you visit us in the pleasant Ozark Mountains. BTW, we do have a real meth problem in Missouri small towns.

Ozarks Bill

siobhan: your posting was brilliant. well done. you have it in a nutshell.

anyway, if people want to come to ireland and do walks, forget about the usual tourist paths and head for sligo, leitrim, donegal. i live in donegal and believe me, you can go to certain parts and walk and walk without meeting another person. it is amazing and lots of clean fresh air and fabulous scenery.

turn right at dublin NOT left if you want to experience what you are looking for when travelling to ireland :)

I forgot this post. justjude I guess I did not entice you but enjoy the trip anyway. I think an 18 year old would like Dublin.

A lot to think about. Thanks for all the comments. I think we might just head northwest, probably to Sligo, don't think we can get much further in our 8 days. Then down to Shannon and back up to Dublin. The midlands and the west seem the most intriguing to me. I still want to see Dublin. There's so much history and after reading SiobhanP and OzarksBill's remarks, I'm looking forward to it. I don't mind the extra drive. I always enjoy the adventure of getting to a location as much as arriving. I wish we could make it further north and south but there's always time for that on future visits. I think I'll spend some time at the bookstore this weekend. Thanks again for all of your comments. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for your very honest report. It's nice to see that you weren't intimidated to say that you liked a place when you didn't.

Last time we went to Ireland we had to go to Adare because, at that time, everyone on this site raved about it. But when we got there we were very disappointed. If more people gave honest assessments then at least it would provoke you to do more research or not get your expectations too high.

We were glad we went to Dublin, but wouldn't go again. We also loved the Cork area and Waterford. And we really loved Mayo, particularly the area north of Newport. We've always found Galway the city overrated, but as you go west or north it improves.

Of course, people are infinitely complicated, and what one person loves another detests. And when people are honest about that, it's what makes this forum so interesting.

What a great discussion, and thank you all for blatantly pointing out the best and worst! I live in New Orleans and love the city, although I could point out lots of bad areas and other negatives, just as I could plan a trip that would have you loving it, too. As many previous posters said, a lot of this just goes with big cities anywhere. Thanks again . . . I wish every thread on Fodor's got down to the nitty gritty of the good and bad like this one has!

I was in Ireland last October. I agree with robinja, that Doolin was wonderful. However, we also loved Dingle. It was loaded with tourist while we were there---just the opposite. Dingle was magical, and my favorite area in Ireland, with Doolin a healthy second.

I did not get to Dublin when in Ireland. I am going to England in late April. So many choices while there, and part of the time will be spent in France. I could go to Dublin then. Did I miss something by not seeing Dublin, or can I turn my sights to more time in France?

We were in Ireland in mid September, traveled around quite a bit and went to Dublin after being in the West. Dublin is more like New York City than anything in Ireland, so be aware that it not so "Irish like", however the Book of Kells exhibit was amazing, and the art in the museums is worth the trip to Dublin. If you know what to expect you won't be disappointed. When I return, I will go to Dublin for a day or so and see any sites I missed and head straight back to West. That's where my family is from so I'm prejudiced. Also, we had the best Irish stew in McGann's in Doolin, and had a wonderful time in Dingle, fun pub and a great tour of the Peninsula.

We loved Dublin! It is a lively contrast to the yawning countryside. Guess it really depends on what you like to do... the west holds much natural beauty definitely worth seeing. But we always enjoy visiting museums and taking walking tours. Dublin has a very interesting past. IMO it is not to be missed if you want to have a balanced experience of Ireland.

I thought this thread was about "what you'd do differently" the next time you visited Ireland. A couple of the "lessons we learned" include not selecting an automatic transmission for the car, and in making our B&B reservations ahead of time through a travel agent. The driving situation was so challening that an automatic would have been easier and, there is absolutely no need to make reservations ahead of time.

Audie, I think its funny that you think Dublin is not so "Irish Like". MOst of the "Irish" touristy stuff is just that ...for the tourists. While a lot of it is fun etc this is not reality. People think this whole plastic paddy leprechaun toting stuff you get in some parts of the country is the real Ireland when in case its more for entertainment of tourists.

Dublin for me is the least like NYC than any other European city (I am from NY originally).

If you like countryside etc I can see why people may not like it but if you like a small walkable city with history and great (free) museums...then this is a good place to visit.

Once again, I agree fully with Siobhan.

For my fellow Americans, consider how many people in the UK and Ireland think Orlando and Disney is the only thing the US has to offer, because that's the only place they go, year after year after mind-numbing year. So many never see NYC, San Francisco, Montana, the Everglades, etc., etc. Same thing with Americans who ignore Dublin. You're missing out on a big part of what makes Ireland Ireland.

With regards to hiking, walking, whatever, I love the hiking in Ireland. You can do an entire cross-country route that's about 350 miles. I tried to do it, but had to end it at 80 miles because of a foot injury. The trails were wonderful, and very little was by road.

So now I stick to trails in parks or in various mountains. I've never had trouble getting maps, usually at the tourist office.

Yes, Siobhan that's exactly what I meant by "Irish like", if that touristy bit is what you are looking for Dublin may not be what you might like. If you want to see some beautiful art in one location-within walking distance it can't be beat. And actually, most intelligent people know that the tourist bits are just that.

Honestly, no offence intended Audie. I just feel people are still looking for the Quiet man and Darby O'Gill and the little people type of Ireland when there are really only small parts like this left. People seem to expect to be entertained this way and don't see some of the other lovely things to do like Ann41 mentions (hiking) and you yourself about architecture and museums. I still have a fun night when I take visiting firends on the musical pub crawls and Johnnie Foxes as well. But its more a show than how people live and entertain ourselves. The Jury's cabaret shows are probably my least favourite as they have little true Irish content but its entertaining to many people so it works.

P.S. I love the countryside as well but don't have the time to always get there :-)

robinja, thanks for sharing your report. I'm planning our first family trip to Ireland. I think we will fly into dublin and out of shannon.

People on-line here seem to love Doolin. I wonder if it gets really crowded in June? We're going in June 2006. (Yes, I'm getting an early start on planning because I'm so excited!)

Bear in mind that we use public transportation exclusively so there may be a slight hike to places but not really more than fifteen minutes from a bus stop or train station.

Arrived Shannon airport on Sunday and caught bus to Limerick. A friend we met at the bus shed told us where to get off and instructed the driver to make sure he stopped there. He did and we walked up the short cul-de-sac to Glen Eagles (not that Glen Eagles, but very nice.) <[email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Helen and Patrick Daly

In Dingle on Monday we stayed at Dingle Heights. <www.dingleheights.com, or [email protected]> Ask for a front room overlooking the harbor. Bridie Fitzgerald was our hostess. Very nice view and about 30 Euros pps ensuite. We had our first, of many, bowl, of Irish stew at O'Grady's across from the tourist board along the waterfront. We lucked out and were able to attend a folk concert of harp, guitars, penny whistle at St. James Church. But we heard lots of music around town as we went back to our bnb after the concert. One place is a hardware store by day and a pub by night! We got cheated out of our tour to Slea Head by the well know local tour operator who renigged on our email reservation. So we will have to go back! And use someone else.

Stayed in Killarney at Cloghroe <[email protected]> about 30 Euros pps ensuite, on Tuesday and did the Gap of Dunloe (three lakes by boat and through the Gap by jaunting car (otherwise a 7 mile walk) on Wednesday. Glad we didn't do the Ring of Kerry. Our hostess Margaret arranged the tour for us. Ate at Murphy's, known for it's pub grub.

Had to spend Wednesday night in Tralee since it is a long haul by bus from Killarney to Doolin. Stayed at The Willows, about five minutes from the bus station. <wwwthewillowsbnb.com or [email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. On Mary's recommendation we went to the Grand Hotel and ate in the pub section. Excellent food. Next day we walked out (rode the bus back) to the Blennerville Windmill before having to catch our bus to Doolin.

On Thursday night in Doolin we stayed at Nellie Dees. <www.nellie-dees.com or [email protected]> The bus driver will drop you at the door if you ask and it is across the road from one of the hostels. Only about five years old, all wood floors, very nice. Jimmy and Loraine Spencer. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. It was a bit of a hike to downtown Doolin but there were two pubs (out of 3) very nearby where we spent the evening eating delicious Irish stew and listening to trad music at McDermott's.

The next morning we hiked into town ("just a wee walk and a right at the bridge"). We passed several bnbs on the way that looked nice. We caught the ferry to Inishoor. Had to ride a carrick out to the ferry because the tide was out. That was a neat experience, although my wife was not really keen on it but nobody fell overboard.

Arrived on Inishoor (Inishere) on Friday and headed to our bnb, Tigh Searraigh. About 25 Euros pps ensuite. <[email protected]> Basic but clean and warm. Went for a tour around the island. It is only 2 km 2km so we knew we couldn't get too lost but the stone fences did start looking just like the last one. My wife got her Aran sweater made (supposedly) on the island. We went to pub (Fitzgerald's I think. There are only about 3 places to eat on the island) for supper and music. A bit of wait for the music but the food was great and the strawberry rhubarb pie was so good we ordered a second round. Bailey’s ice cream on it was heavenly. I have never tasted such a delicious ice cream! Called it a night about 10 PM and was up the next day to catch the 9 AM ferry back to Doolin and 12 noon bus to Ennis for our last night before catching our flight out of Shannon.

Saturday night we stayed at Stonehaven in Ennis <www.stonehaven-clare.com or [email protected]> about 15 minute walk from bus station but Marie would have collected us if we had called. Very nice family, especially Joseph the 7 year old. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Ennis is a market town and we were there Saturday, market day. Neat!

Back to the train/bus station for our bus to Shannon airport and on to Scotland..

You can certainly see more if you rent a car but we didn't want the stress. Also, we noticed that more pubs are catching on to the attraction of pub grub by tourists and are starting to provide table service instead of us ordering at the bar. The price sometimes increases accordingly.

This may be more than you really wanted to know but we had a blast and are talking about doing the same tour again. I probably would not do Dublin again but there is something about the Southwest of Ireland that is magical. I will send you some Irish links if you will send me your email address. We are in Virginia Beach, VA [email protected]

Leisa, I just read your reply from Buzzy and I agree with you 100%. Yes it's true that there is a drug problem in Dublin(like almost every major city on the planet!) but to fool yourself into thinking that you can escape this by moving to the country is ridiculous. I'm in the process of buying a house an hour outside Dublin simply beacuse I can not afford to live in Dublin. I don't fool myself into thinking there are no drugs where I'm moving to. There are of course. But on a much smaller scale because it's a smaller town. Buzzy FYI I have relatives that live in a small-ish Irish town and believe me, the drug problem is huge. As for the comparison with Ibiza..get real!

Siobhanp I have just read your posts are fair play to you girl for setting the record straight on several things. I've lived in Dublin all my life and while it has it's problems it also has it's great points. And also I have to agree on the comment about NYC. I've only been to NY once but I honestly can't see the similarity with Dublin. (No offence to any New Yorkers, I had a great time and will definitely go back!)

Robinja: Any specifics to offer for Cork (restaurants/shops/music/etc..). We'll have just one day there (off a Silverseas cruise)in early Sept. Thanks!

Appreciate all the wonderful advice, and much of it confirms what I've already considered...It's my first trip abroad and all of my decendants are from Ireland (mostly Tralee). I'm also related to James Joyce by way of his cousin, Ann Joyce..I'm 3rd generation Chicago Irish. There's something fragmented about much of American life that draws me and I suspect many others to the 'mither sod'. I anticipate more tourists than I would prefer, and have assimilated the many comments into my planning.

We're into Dublin the first day and night, only because my travel mate hates to fly and wanted a non stop from LA. We'll drive our little car, use our vouchers (which I won't use again after hearing the comments, and hope to have many days and nights filled w/trad,craic and unexpected adventures. I suppose it's human nature to want to experience the Ireland of "The Quiet Man", but for me, it's much more than that. I have a deep feeling of pride and connection to a people (from whom I decended)and a land that might have suffered much but has managed in many areas to keep a poet and musician's heart alive, who appreciate traditions and have a strong sense of family. Something sadly many Americans have lost sight of. I don't care how corny it sounds but I can't wait to touch down on Irish soil and just be there! Your comments have confirmed my thoughts about Waterford, and the ROK...the fewer tourists (outside of our first and last in Dublin, which I am looking forward to seeing) the better for me! The Mizen, Dingle, Doolin are more for the likes of me. I've warned my traveling partner, I intend to lay in the grass and just look at the sky for a time, sit on a hill and think, and look out at Tralee Bay where I know my great grandmother, Mary Corcoran, looked out from as a young girl herself. Ireland should be felt I believe, and not just 'seen'. Thanks for the wonderful insights. I'm going April 15 to the 24th, and if you see a news story about an American being dragged back onto a plane in Dublin...that'll be me!
Colleen

I have not had the pleasure of traveling to Ireland but something crossed my mind as I quickly read through all these post. And may I add I did not read each and every sentance.

Dublin is the way Dublin is. That is the big city of Ireland today. Just like Rome or Milan are the big cities of Italy, the way Italy is today. Even in the countryside expect for the remote areas the Italy in most people's mind really is not the reality anymore.

I think a lot of travellers go to "the old country" seeking the land and lifestyle that they heard about from their ancestors. And that is understandable.

But that would be like someone coming to the US and expecting the country and lifestyle of the US say in the 1930', 40's or 50's. It no longer exsist.

We all have visions and dreams of places we want to visit but I think a lot of these ideas are from family stories, movies, books etc. Then we land in that foreign country and we are shocked that it does not meet our expectations. And we feel that this city or that place is not the true country we went to visit.

But it is. It is what it is. Does that make sense? I don't know if I am explaining what I mean properly.

I've lived in dublin for 2.5 years now. Here's a few things that the Irish americans might be disapointed with when they arrive.

1) The Irish (that are those who are irish, were born here and currently live here) do NOT consider you to be Irish. In fact they take offence to american's (and other nationals) referring to themselves as Irish.

2) The heriditary culture/attitudes handed down through generations of american Irish people are 19th century attitudes/culture which does not exist here any more.

3) and finally. NOBODY EXCEPT FOR CRIMINALS SUPPORT THE IRA!!! The General public of Ireland do not support the IRA. They consider them to be an organisation that is now obsolete and packed with criminals and low lifes. If you've ever given them money you should feel very guilty.

>Dublin is a modern European city and is becoming more and more like an American city every year.Bit by bit they are knocking down the ancient parts of the city and building modern office blocks.


I was going to have a rant about Buzzy's comments which are completely false. But that's been covered so will commenton the above.

What you've stated is also completely untrue. Dublin has very strict planning regulations for their historic buildings. To negate the problem, new buildings are being build outside of the city centre area. Industrial estates and business parks outside of the city is where all of the commerce is these days and it's where all of the new modern buildings are being built.

Oh and please note that this message is coming to you from my office at Sandyford Industrial Estate. Right next door to the Microsoft building and a minimum 30 min drive from the city centre (assuming no traffic).

> intend to lay in the grass and just look at the sky for a time

If you mean that literally expect to get a wet bum. While Ireland has been blessed with the most beautiful soft flurescent green grass i've ever seen, it never stops raining for long enough for the ground to ever become in any way close to dry.

Even if we have 2-3 days in the row without rain, which is rare, expect the ground to be wet.

I agree on all acounts except the rain...I haven't used my umbrella in ages. They was a small bit of spray last week but it only rains at night or when I am indoor it seems. I never rains as much as I thought it would when I moved here.

And yes I am so glad you mentioned the IRA.....they have been conning people with these romantic ideals and it is completely untrue. I don't think there is the support or donations for them like they used to get 20 years ago in the U.S. The McCartney sisters have shown who they really are and broken the silence.

Also regarding buildings, They cannot go higher than the siptu building at present. I believed now they will be allowed to go higher further along the Quays where all the new apts are going and the building that is going to house offices and U2's new studio.