Ira's Mother's Trip to Paris
 

Wednesday, April 28
Mom is 87. This was her first trip to Paris. She was accompanied by daughter,
daughter-in-law and son.

Mom and D flew Iceland air from BWI to CDG via Reykjavik. Trip was uneventful. Food
was so-so. Comfort was fair. On the return trip, they were upgraded to business class.
Much better.

Ira and DIL flew AF ATL to CDG. Equipment was a 777 with the 3-3-3 configuration.
Chose adjacent aisle seats. Seats are OK unless the person in front of you leans alllll
the waaaaay back. Then it is difficult to get out of your seat.

The little TV screens in the seatbacks help to pass the time. The earphone plugs were
too large for our ears and kept falling out.

Air France serves pretty good for an airline.

Ira and his lady wife, Roberta (aka DIL), touched down at CDG 2C at 11:45, followed the
signs to the no.1, Red Line, shuttle and were on the bus to CDG 1 by 12:30. The bus
did a full loop of CDG 2 before heading to CDG 1. We arrived at 1:15.

Mother and D exited the security area about 45 min after scheduled landing. Due to a
failure to communicate, D hadn't called the Bee Shuttle upon arrival. We walked over to
gate 16 and called the toll free number. A van arrived within 5 min. A very interesting,
round-about, multi-stop trip into Paris ensued. We did see a lot of Paris, while the driver
ran various errands. Arrived at hotel about 4:15, after I told the driver that we did not
wish to be dropped off "just a few blocks from the hotel". Fortunately, the trip back was
much faster and smoother.

Checked into the Hotel Bonaparte. The staff was pleasant, courteous and efficient. Mrs
Dumas greeted us warmly. Napoleon, the cat, sniffed all of our luggage before giving
approval to use the elevator. We had rooms 18 (double bed, faces the street) and 19
(twin beds, faces the courtyard with a bathroom window on the street).

Room 18 has a marble fireplace, mini-fridge, armoire, AC, a breakfast table and two
chairs in front of the French windows. The large bathroom had a tub, European style
shower, no shower curtains. Towels were large and fluffy. Bring your own washcloth.

Room 19 has an even larger bathroom with a tub large enough for a gondola race.

Walked about the neighborhood and had dinner at Le Grille St Germaine, Rue Guisard
corner of Rue Mabillon. A typical bistro with good food at low to moderate prices. Prix
Fixe dinner about 16E. House white wine was a modest Chablis, 12E.

The oyster platter (6 for 9E) was excellent.

A gentleman was dining alone at the table next to us. He had white asparagus en croute
with green asparagus and mayonnaise for an entrée, poached salmon with risotto, small
cheese plate, crème caramel and coffee. Each course accompanied by a ? bottle of
wine. This was too exotic for Mom and D. We went with the chicken, veal and duck
breast. A bottle of George Duboeuf Coteaux-du-Lyonnaise, 17E, had a velvety texture
with lovely tastes of dark berries and cherries.

Sorry about the line breaks.

Thursday
Had breakfast served in the room. (D exclaimed that the croissant was worth the trip, and Mom said that the bread was as good as when she was a little girl.) Then followed Rue Bonaparte past Eglise St Germaine-des-Pres (quick stop), Rue Jacob (longer stop at Laduree) and across Quai Malaquais to the Batobus stop. Buy the tickets at a little shop built into the quay wall at the foot of the stairs.

Ira had planned on buying the monthly pass, which is only a little more than the 3-day pass. However, you need a photograph, which we didn't have. So we did a loop of all of the sights and got off at the Jardin des Plantes stop.

The Jardin was in full bloom: many exotic flowers along with lots of pansies. We walked through the gardens to the Mosque. Looked in at the décor and followed Degas's itinerary for a walk through the 5th.

We sat on the stone seats at the Arenes de Lutece, feeling very Roman as we watched the locals playing bocci. Lunch was at a Vietnamese place, Le Lotus Blue: excellent soups with noodles - about 7E with a pot of tea.

Fashion Note: Pink is in. Mom's favorite was a woman in a black pant's suit with pink high-top sneakers.

Walked past the Sorbonne, saw the Pantheon, arrived at the Cluny in time for closing. Went back to the hotel via the Luxembourg gardens.

Moules et frites at Leon Bruxelles on Bld St Germaine was a pleasant experience - 14E for the menu, with a Belgian waffle for dessert.

Friday
After breakfast, we walked up to the Luxembourg gardens for a short walk and then took the Metro to the Cite stop. Spent a while in the flower market before going on to Notre Dame. We followed Degas's walking tour for the two islands. Lunch at a little creperie opposite no 14 Rue de Deux Ponts - Pom'Canello. Quiche and salad - 9E. Very good split pea soup - 5E.

Find of the week: Gelato at Amorino - 47 Rue St Louis en Lille. As good as any we had in Italy. They also have a shop at 4 Rue de Buci.

Across from Amorino is a tiny shop selling foie gras de canard and confite de canard by folks who have their own farm. Well worth stopping in for a sample.

Wandered back to the hotel through the small streets between the Seine and the hotel: window shopped, souvenir shopped, food shopped. Mom and D had a nap. Ira and DIL went around the corner for an aperitif and people watching. Shortchanged 2E by the waiter. DIL said not to make a fuss, so I left a penny tip.

Dinner at Le Bistro d' Henri, 16 rue Princesse. Small, homey place serving French comfort food. Entrée + Plat about 20E. Desserts 6-7E. House wines were modest - 9E. Fish, boudin, veal kidneys, chicken, stews were all good. Avoid the duck in orange sauce - much too fatty. We noticed that other diners had the same opinion.

Saturday
Stopped in early at Eglise St Sulpice to see what the crowds were about - First Communion. Ceremony with children's choir and organ. Candles illuminated the altar. Very moving.

Bus number 84 from the Pl St Sulpice takes you to the entrance to the Parc Monceau. There was an antiques market along the Rue Courcelles, which was an interesting bonus. Entered the park by the Ave Velasquez entrance, (Mom and DIL suitably impressed by the mansions), and exited at the Ave Van Dyke. Park was in full bloom. The only discordant note was that the pond was drained, and the ducks were roosting in the trees.

Lunch at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre (quiche and dessert - 14.5E, salads 9E, desserts 6E. Nice bottle of Bourgogne - 14E) in exquisite surroundings was followed by an audio-guide tour of the Museum. We then walked to the Arc de Triomphe and sauntered down the Champs Elysee - massive crowds - to the Place Concorde. Metro back to the hotel.

Mom and D had another nap. I bought a bottle of Cognac at a local shop, and DIL and I sat on a bench at the Pl Sulpice and people watched. The church bells ring for about 15 min each evening at about 6:00 PM.

We walked to Brasserie Balzar for dinner - about 20E pp with wine. The service was good and the food was even better, but we were disappointed in the décor. Their website says, "The sober wood panelling, the vast mirrors on each wall, the moleskin banquettes, the bistro chairs, the green and white tiling, ceramic vases and clock - no, the art deco atmosphere has not changed...". That's what we were expecting. What we found was International Modern. Maybe we were in the wrong Brasserie Balzar.

Grilled lamb was three generous chops, grilled just right. The Choucroute garnie was a large serving of sauerkraut with bacon, ham and 4 sausages. Well worth the price.

Note: The Flo Group offers a 20% discount is you make reservations over the internet. See http://www.flobrasseries.com/resa/en/

Sunday
Went into Pierre Hermes when it opened at 10:00 AM. Almond croissant (1.5E) is outstanding. Various other pastries from 0.7 to 20E. Macarons are excellent. Walked down to Laduree. Ditto. Up to the markets on the Rue de Buci and then to the stalls along the Seine.

Lunch at Meteora, a Greek restaurant on the Rue de la Huchette - 9E tourist menu. Good Retsina for 15E. The specialty is the seafood platter 26E for one, 48 for 2, 86 for 4. A portion for one is 12 oysters, 12 snails, 12 clams, 6 langouste, 12 shrimp, a crab and a bowl of periwinkles. All very fresh and tasting of the sea.

Returned to hotel and sat on a bench at Pl St Sulpice watching the water flow in the fountain. A Parisienne of a certain age sat next to me and began speaking to me in French. Despite my protestations that "Je parle l'anglais, seulement" she continued on until I admitted that I could understand her if she spoke slowly. In essence, she told me:

The fountain at Pl St Sulpice is square. Each face is aligned with the cardinal points of the compass: N, E, S, W. Each face has a statue of a Bishop or Archbishop. However, none of the persons facing the cardinal points of the compass was promoted to Cardinal. Thus, the four cardinals are not Cardinals.

Now that's something you don't find in guide books.

Dinner at Vesuvio, an Italian restaurant on Bld St Germaine across the street from St Germaine-des-Pres. Very friendly, pleasant place with a wood-burning pizza oven. The owners are Italian, and were pleased with my greeting them in Italian instead of French. Dinner was just like in Italy - 80E for 4 with wine. We returned for another dinner, and were remembered. We were given a complimentary glass of kir because we were 'regulars'.

Monday
Visited the Bastille and Marais area. Had the obligatory lunch at Jo Goldenberg's - tasty, but much more like Toronto than New York.

Note: Numbers 11 & 13 Rue Francis Miron are half-timbered houses dating from about 1580.

D and DIL went to see the Pompidou while Mom and I rested on a bus stop bench. It turned out that we were at a stop for a bus that went to Pl St Sulpice, so we took the bus back to the hotel.

Dinner at Le Vagenende, 142 Bld St Germain. Belle Epoque décor. Very proper service, good (not exceptional) food. The room is the draw. Prices from 11E.

Tuesday
Overcast, cold and windy. Took the Metro to Pl Pigalle, crossed Rue Clichy and got on the Montmartrebus (no 18) on the left side of the pl. The bus winds its way up to Sacre Coeur and down to Pl Jules Joffrin and then back to Pigalle. Worth the 1E charge.

Visited the Basilica, saw the view. Had lunch at Le Tardieu, a tiny place on Rue Tardieu that is notable for its toilette. Out back, Turkish style. Mom admitted that this was certainly an experience.

Stopped by Eglise St Jean de Montmartre before walking down the stairway at the Abesses Metro stop. Unfortunately, the art work is badly disfigured by graffiti.

Back to hotel.

Wednesday, May 5 Bought macarons and chocolates at Pierre Hermes. Uneventful travel day back.

That is great, ira. I really found it touching to hear about your mother's first trip to Paris. What a wonderful thing.

A lovely trip report. Made me smile. My mom's in her mid-70's and I keep thinking that I should get back to Paris with her before she's "too old" for the trip. Your mother, at 87, is an inspiration!

Diane

WONDERFUL report and welcome back :D

It's a bit bittersweeet for me as I never got my mom back to London before she could not longer travel :(

Great posts, ira. Thanks for sharing your and your family's experience.

So glad you all had a wonderful trip and that your Mom was able to see beautiful "Paree." I certainly hope that I'm still traveling at that age. Thanks for the report, Ira.

Ira,
It's so nice that your mother got to go to Paris! I enjoyed your trip report- thanks for posting.

I really enjoyed reading it all ira, and am mightily impressed with your Mom's ability to get around. Sounds as if you did a fair amount of walking, too. That's wonderful. What terrific memories you'll all have of sharing Paris. Wish I could have done that with mine--she would have loved it.

Ira, you did not mention the weather. I recall you were worried about the forecast. How did it turn out? I was thinking about you. Your ladies are lucky to have you.

Ira, as always, your trip reports are wonderful, because, at least for me, I end up feeling like I was there. I did have to laugh, however, over your very complete description of what the gentleman at the next table was eating. That just tickled me. It makes me worry that when I eat out, some intrepid traveler seated next to me will be taking out a note pad, and my entire dinner will show up on Fodors!

Thank you all for your kind remarks.

Treesa,
The weather was mixed. Overcast and cool mostly with rain in the evenings, sunshine on two days - hot.

The last day was cold, windy and rainy.

Surfer,
I didn't have to take notes at the time. I remembered his dinner because it was soooooooo Parisian, and he was evidently enjoying it.

PS,
My poison ivy wasn't a problem. I took Chlortrimeton every 4 hours, and the cool weather did the rest.

Thanks, Ira, and A happy Mother's Day to your mom.

Ira,
We just decided to go to Paris again in November (couldn't resist the Air France fare sale!), and we're looking into the Hotel Bonparte, on your recommendation. A small thing, but are there hairdryers in the rooms?

Hi Marcy,

Yes. There are hair dryers in the bathrooms.

My lady wife says that it was a very good dryer.

What a wonderful trip for all of you--a time to remember forever! I admire your mom's spirit! ( And I hope my kids will want to travel with me when I'm 87!)

Just curious: the restaurants that you mentioned that aren't well known, such as the Vietnamese, Greek, etc.; had you researched them or just happened upon them?

Thanks, Ira ;;)

Thank you for the reports. All of your posts are a pleasure to read. These were particularly joyful.

Ira, you're a good boy.

Thanks for the great detailed trip report, Ira. Also I am taking notes on the restaurants you tried. I agree with your comments about Vagenende. I liked the authentic decor but did not think the food was good.

What a wonderful report. I just took advantage of the Air France promotion and will be in Paris for Thanksgiving week. Your report and those of others will keep me going until November 22.

Yes, ira, you are as iregeo says, A Good Boy! This is so enjoyable to read, you were in my old neighborhood and I long to be back there too!

I'd second iregio's "good boy," but Scarlett beat me to it! May I "third" it?

Did you have pastrami at Jo Goldenberg? If so , how was it? I want to report back to my husband, who opted for "Hollywood Bagel" instead.

I agree that the decor at Balzar is not very inspiring. I was expecting decor that was more along the lines of Chartier (with food that was much, much better than Chartier). I loved the waiters, though (at both Balzar and Chartier).

Thanks for the report on what sounds like a memorable trip. Happy Mother's Day to your mum and all the others!

LOL, elle, the more the merrier! As a matter of fact, Pup sends his regards to ira from one good boy to another :D

Sorry, ira, I could not resist~

I agree about Vagenende. I watched a friend's "French in Action"and one of the scenes for food is photographed there.

Very inspiring trip report, Ira! How lovely that your family enjoyed traveling together!

If only the Parisians would agree to pave over the Seine, lock up all the knives, and tightly shutter all windows higher than the first floor, I may one day dare to venture there in the company of my own extended, fiendishly combative family.

The big question would be how many of us would make it home again and how many would remain behind, imprisoned or interred.

croque Madame? what are you saying? And it doesn't sound like you??

Great report, Ira!

Musee Jacquemart-Andre was one of the museums that I wanted to visit but didn't get a chance to. Perhaps, next time.. Would you recommend the brunch there?

I am also taking my 77 y/o mother to Italy in June. This is her first trip ever to Europe. How did she fair w/ jet-lag issues? Recovered pretty quickly? thx.

Ah, it's not that bad, Cigalechanta! I've just spent a full day and half the night with both my 17 and 11 year old grandchildren.

The first, a girl, and the second, a boy, have grown up nearly as sister and brother. The orphaned 17 year old was left on our doorstep as an infant. Her cousin, the 11 year old, lives nearby.

After a day of their squabbling, surely you would understand the comments I made at midnight. That's why I take them to Paris separately.

At this moment, the 11 year old is grinding his teeth in his sleep because although he went with me last Christmas, October will be his cousin's turn to see Paris.

The 17 year old just handed me the first of my Mother's Day cards, a hand drawn illustration of the Eiffel Tower with words written inside the card that remind me why I put up with these two enfants terribles.

Well, You deserve a great HAPPY MOTHER'S DAy....and
I enjoy your posts so much.

Thanks Ira for the great succinct but info packed report. Always love to hear about the meals (drool-drool) and prices as well as impressions.

Brought back great memories. Second/third the food opinions...fond memories of a late night meal (last table sat) at Vagenende and having that gorgeous place basically all to ourselves. Very pleased that the staff had the courtesy to not rush us either. Amorino's gelato is the best, c'est vrai. And while I know some pooh-pooh Leon de Bruxelles, this one on Blvd St. Germain has become a regular of ours for that affordable-meal-at-any-hour need. Their creme brulee is one of the best I've ever had. Now that I know we share the same tastes, I'll have to try the other eateries you mention! Next time you're "dans le coin" try Le Be-Bop on Gregoire de Tours (just off r. Buci) for great food and piano playing - menu 26 euros.

I, too, am interested in hearing more on how your mother fared energy-wise and her thoughts and impressions since it was her first trip. Thanks again!

Great post for Mother's Day. Can't believe your mother went to the Turkish toilet out back. Glad your poison ivy didn't slow you down.

Thanks, Cigalechanta! It's just that the boy is jealous because the girl gets to live with the fabulous grandparents and the girl is jealous because the boy DOESN'T have to live with old fogey grandparents!

Ira, apologies for hijacking your own, very much more interesting thread. Please convey my admiring Mother's Day wishes to your intrepid Mom.

Back to you. We want to hear lots more!

Hi all,

Good of you to reply.

Happy Mother's Day, as appropriate.

My Mom says "Thanks" to you all.

petite: Sunday Brunch at the J-A is worth the price IF you like coddled egg. I'm not sure if they also do the lunch menu on Sunday.

We went for Saturday Lunch because I didn't want to subject my sister to seeing a soft-boiled egg.

Grandmere: The hitherto undiscovered restaurants are a result of my very carefully researched dining choices having bombed.

I learned that when bringing picky eaters to Paris one has to introduce them to things they are familiar with - Italian, Greek, Chinese - before they will consider exotic dishes like "poulet fermiere", "confit de canard", "choucroute", etc.

Elle: Jo Goldenberg's delicatessen is much milder in flavor than those of us who are from New York are used to. The pastrami was what I think they call "smoked meat" in Montreal. Rather lean, very thin slices and fairly bland.

Also, they don't make real bagels.

Klondike: Be-Bop was on my list, but was scrubbed, along with some other places that I would have preferred.

How did Mom deal with jet lag, walking, etc?

First day, we got to the hotel about 3:00, unpacked and walked about the neighborhood, washed up and went to dinner. In bed about 9:00.

Second day, up at 7:45 for breakfast. No jet lag. I think that she was rather tired out by the end of this day's walking tour.

Third day, we took a rest stop for about 10 min every hour or less. This was much easier on her, although she insisted it wasn't necessary.

Her major problem was climbing stairs at some of the metro stops.

Just plan for lots of rest breaks.

Mom's impressions of Paris: She found it overwhelmingly wonderful.

For all of you who are thinking about taking elderly parents to Europe: I suggest that you do it. Just slow down the pace.

I also suggest that, if they are not regular travelers, 7 - 10 days is about the right time frame.

Ira,
Thanks for all the suggestions. You <b>are</b> a good sport.

I've been contemplating taking my recently widowed mother to Europe, but I've been worried about some of those issues, and your report gives me hope that it just might work.

Now if I can just convince her to go! She has the mindset of &quot;Oh, I don't need (deserve) to go on any big trip like that.&quot;

I'll keep working on her!

Hi Marcy,

Of course, she should go.

How long were you planning for? If she has not done much traveling 3 weeks would seem like a verrrryyyyy long time.

Get her a few guidebooks.

Look forward to your trip report.