>> I think Perigueux has some of the loveliest architecture in the southwest. There is a very long shopping steet - running along the R des Maquisards, R d'Anjou, and the R Emile Zola that has some extremly pretty storefronts and lots of shops that attracted my wife. There is also a very nice garden/housewares store on the Place Carnot and across the Place is a Genevieve Lethu shop.<<

Oops - I was looking at my map of Figeac when I wrote about the above shopping streets in Perigueux. The shopping street in Perigueux is along R Limogeanne connecting with Rue Saliniere. The flower/housewhere & Guenevieve Lethu shops are on Pl de l'Hotel de Ville.

Stu Dudley

Hi cigal,

>Did you notice all the black witches for sale in the gift Cathar shops? <

Yup, some of them were very cute.

I have no idea why, either.

((I))

Day 15
We were late getting started, so after breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and headed directly for Libourne, from whence we were to take the TGV to Paris.

Both www.mappy.com and www.viamichelin.com recommend staying on the S side of the Dordogne going past Bergerac. We were happy we followed this route instead of the D660. Not only is the scenery better, but the new loop around Bergerac has been completed, so it is faster.

Although the directions are well marked, I somehow lost the D936e1 and got onto the N21. This, serendipitously, required us to come back by way of Monbazillac. Being a little ahead of schedule, we took a while to visit the Chateau (http://www.chateau-monbazillac.com/) and taste the wines - bought 3 bottles. Well worth the visit if you are in the neighborhood.

From Monbazillac, we proceeded without incident toward Bordeaux. Still ahead of schedule, we stopped in St Emilion for an hour or so and arrived in Libourne with 0:30 hr to spare to drop off the car.

Since our train didn't leave until 18:30, I had found a charcuterie near the train station at www.pagesjaune.fr where we could pick up something for supper. I easily found the street.

Unfortunately, not only was the charcuterie not there, the address wasn't there either. Oh well.

Filled the car at a convenient gas station, dropped LW and the luggage at a table outside the café at the train station and returned the car to the Europcar office across the street.

There was no parking space for the car. However, since I was now thinking "French", I drove onto the sidewalk in front of the office and left the car there. This caused no apparent concern.

We traveled 2753 km, paid 172E for gazol and 36E in tolls. The Peugeot 307 got about 17 km/L (40 mpg).

Odd event: While driving at 50 kph on a flat, paved road between Beynac and Vezac the left rear tire blew out. Fortunately, it was on a Monday, and I was able to have the tire replaced within two hr.

Neither Europcar nor AutoEurope would pay for the tire - citing some silly statement in the fine print that the insurance didn't cover tires or glass. Same problem if I had used my AMEX insurance. One replaced Dunlop tire - 140E.

Returning to the train station, I found my LW comfortably arranged with a book and a pitcher of wine, so I set out to find somewhere to get supper.

Surprisingly, the café across the street provided freshly made sandwiches (jambon and fromage or cheese, lettuce and tomato on a fresh baguette - 3E).

The next hour was spent waiting for the train, people watching and chatting with other travelers.

About 18:00 a two car train, which I took to be a local commuter train, arrived. This turned out to be the TGV to Paris.

An uneventful ride to Gare Montparnasse (arriving at 21:30), where we easily found a cab to the hotel.

I had expected we would be taken by the "scenic" route, and was mildly surprised that the cabby circled the station only twice, took the shortest route to the rue Bonaparte and charged only 8.4E. Having budgeted 10E for the cab ride, I was happy to give him the whole amount.

It now being after 11:00, we took a short walk down to the Seine to see the lighted monuments and returned to the hotel - room 23, fifth floor facing the street, with a small balcony from which I could stand and people watch.

And so to bed

Day 16
Arose early and wandered around watching the city come awake. Picked up our mail at the desk.

The tickets to the D'Orsay that I had ordered online weren't there. Instead I had a slip from the post office and a letter from the ticket agency. It turned out to be too late to get the tickets from them.

After breakfast, leaving my LW to rest up from the rigors of our motor trip, I walked over to the D'Orsay and bought advance tickets. At 9:30 AM, the line without reservations was 0:30 hr long. There was no line for advanced tickets.

Stopped by the Monoprix on rue de Rennes(great place to shop) and picked up some water (50 cl for 0.9E if cold, 3/1E if not cold) collected my LW and off we went for a walk.

Down rue Bonaparte to the river, where we got 5 day Batobus passes (16E pp), across the Pont des Arts, through the Cour Carre of the Louvre, through the Jardin Palais Royal, over to Pl Vendome and stopped for lunch on Rue St. Honore'. Walked backed via the Tuileries.

Dinner at Brasserie Lipp, a Belle Epoque room, where we were seated in a corner (either the very best or very worst place) from which we could see everything.

Aperitif of 2004 Domaine de L'Ile Porquerols Rose' (dry, fruity), an excellent accompaniment to a dozen Belon Oysters (48E) and my choucroute.

The house white was very good, dry with tastes of cinnamon and spices, Mirabelle plums and green grapes - went very nicely with Roberta's crab salad.

Roberta had the crab salad - OK, but not outstanding, and I had the Choucroute Garni (sauerkraut topped with bacon, ham, pork loin, 2 kinds of sausages and potatoes) - very good.

People watching note: An Argentine gentleman of about 55 with a female companion had a table near us. After a few moments of conversation between them, he picked up his purse (men in Europe have purses) and left. About 40 min later, he returned with his daughter. (My LW commented that he could have ordered her a glass of wine.)

All 3 order. Food comes. He places his serving platter between them and lets his companion serve him. My LW says that if I can't continue to serve myself, I can go live in an old age home.

Dessert, Raspberry melba and a small pastry with coffee - both very, very good.

Dinner with Belon oysters and wines - 135E.

Upon leaving the Lipp, we came across the Friday night roller bladers. Thousands of people on skates coming up the Rue de Rennes onto Boul St. Germain accompanied by police on skates, police on bicycles, police on motorcycles, police in vans, and a few hundred bicyclists. Quite a sight.

And so to bed

Some Real Estate notes garnered from window shopping:
266 sq meters, top floor near D'Orsay Museum 2.5 Million E.
Two rms, 1st flr w/kitchen near D'Orsay 1.4 Million E.
50 sq m, view of Jardin Luxembourg 0.5 Million E.
50 sq m in the 5th, 6th floor 0.5 Million E.
Parking space near St. Sulpice church 45000 E.

TBC

Just as I was deciding to sell the house, pack up and leave for France you had to bring me back to earth with real estate prices.

My husband tried just once to get away with the same “serve me” trick. I don’t remember what I said, but he never tried it again.

Thanks again for this enjoyable report. I hope you still have a lot more to tell us.

...walking hand in hand at night along the Seine, priceless!

Can you put up a tent in the parking space at St. Sulpice? If not, which apartment are you saving up for?

Day 17

Saturday opened rainy and chilly as we went off to the market at Pl Breteuil, a not unpleasant residential neighborhood with a nice view of the Eiffel Tower.

The market is top notch. Products from Italy, Spain and Greece as well as from all over France.

Purchased some wine(2002 Ch de Touron Bergerac 6.95E, a very drinkable rose’, 4.5E, and a white, 5.5E). I found a cork-screw, of a kind that I found nowhere else, and Roberta bought a 3-piece outfit (85E). Very happy that she did her clothes shopping here rather than on Rue Bonaparte.

Took our purchases back to the hotel. The weather cleared and we went off to the equestrian show at the Head Quarters of the Presidential Guard on Boul Henri IV. This show was put on as part of what would be “Armed Forces Day” in the US. The Army, Navy and Air Force had demonstrations all over Paris.

In addition to the equestrian drill, there was a performance by “The Old Guard”, complete with Napoleon, canon and musket fire and speeches. A pleasant afternoon.

We stopped for an aperitif, and walked back to the hotel via the Pont Sully, Ile St Louis (gelato at Amorino), Notre Dame and refreshment at the Café’ Bonaparte.

There was a Fete des Jardins on the square in front of Notre Dame and we spent some time looking at the interesting displays of flowers, plantings and water features. There were also jugglers, clowns and bands - more small town than big city entertainment.

Dinner at Vagenende (http://www.vagenende.fr/) another Belle Epoque restaurant with décor that leans to the Art Deco rather than Art Nouveau. Ask for a table in the inside room with the stained glass ceiling and mirrored walls. They have a tendency to put tourists in the window on the street.

We each had the 23E menu. LW had a glass of house rose’ and I had a Pastis. A bottle of 2004 Domaine de Vaudon Chablis (slightly yeasty, a hint of fizz, taste of green apples and a dry, citrus finish) went well with both our choices.

Roberta had the onion tart, chicken en brochette, and various sorbets for dessert. I had the oeufs en gelee, the suckling pig in honey and spices, and the Brie de Mieux. The, very good, decaf came with a piece of chocolate.

A very pleasant dinner, well served and presented, with aperitif, wine and coffee – 112E. If you stick to the menu and a pitcher of house wine – half that.

Walked a bit around the Boul St Germain and back to the hotel.

And so to bed.

Day 18

Visited the Marche’ St Germain in the morning (bought some sheep's milk yogurt) and went off to the Musee Marmottan. Some first-class Monet’s.

After sating ourselves at the Museum, we walked down to the Castel Beranger. Certainly an interesting building,

We found another Guimard building on rue Fontaine near rue Ribera (now owned by the Education Ministry) and two buildings by Bouissard on Ribera near the Metro stop. Very interesting architecture in this neighborhood.

We took the Metro to the Viaduct des Arts, where we had lunch at La Valise, another Art Deco restaurant, before a stroll along the Viaduct.

From the Viaduct we walked up to the Pl Bastille, took the metro to the Grand Palais stop and walked down to the Batobus for a ride on the river to the Quai Malaquais stop (rue Bonaparte).

After a short rest, we walked up to La Mediterranee on Pl Odeon. The theater is being renovated, but the scaffolding was on the side away from the restaurant, and the view was pleasant.

This is a very nice room, done with murals of the Mediterranean. Although they have menus at 29E (3 course) and 25E (2 course), we decided to go a la carte. House wine and a Pastis for aperitif.

Roberta had the crab and tomato salad (Very good and a generous serving) with the sorbet dessert.

I had the Dublin prawn spring rolls (prawns, marinated peppers and baby spinach), the sea bream stuffed with polenta, and a trio of desserts (“Surprise me”, I said.), rice pudding with vanilla, crème anglais with peppercorns, semolina with currents and thyme. Very flavorful and not filling. Very nice with Roberta’s sorbets.

Wine was a 2000 Chablis Grand Cru La Chablisienne Grenouille (vanilla, peaches and pears, toasted oak, citrus and a dry, but not intense, mineral finish) - worth every penny.

Dinner with aperitif and wine – 185E.

After a long day, it was nice to walk downhill to the hotel.

And so to bed.

TBC

Ira -

How lucky for my husband and I that your very interesting and detailed report appears the week before we go to France.

merci encore!

Ever since I started reading this report, I put on more pounds.

Hi,

I forgot to mention that La Mediterranee is a very, very good restaurant.

Top notch food, excellent service and very pleasant ambience.

((I))

Day 19

Up bright and early and caught the 09:00 train to Auxerre. Intermiitent fog, heavy at times, that slowed the train considerably, but we arrived a little before 11:00 (about 15 min late). Fog lifted just outide Auxerre. Bright, clear and pleasantly warm.

Walked across the bridge and along the river Yonne to the Tourist office, where we got a map and some literature. Spent the day exploring a very pretty medieval town with some quite interesting architecture.

The city gate with the clock is particularly interesting. The churches of St. Eusebius and St. Steven are very serene.

Housing in Auxerre is about 40% of the cost of Paris for equivalent real estate.

Lunch at a small shop with some very good, inexpensive local wines (1/2 bottle of 2002 Domaine des Ramparts Burgundy Rose', light and fruity with hints of plums and currants, and a 1/2 bottle of 2003 Coulanges la Vineuse Burgundy Red, nice ruby color, smooth texture, tastes of cassis, currants and raisins), which we had with a Croque Monsieur and a Croque Madame. 13E for the sandwiches and 15E for the wine.

Note; even with two maps and a compass, we got lost.

Took the 16:30 back to Paris Bercy and walked up to the Gare de Lyon, past the heart and brain of France - the Ministry of Economics, Finance and Industry complex. This is where all of the records are kept, where the rules and regulations are created and where that form you spent days filling out is sent to be stamped "not approved' and returned with a notice that you didn't include the electric bill for March, 1998.

Stopped off at Le Train Bleu for a bit of refreshment at the bar, confirmed our dinner reservations and set off for a sunset cruise on the Batobus.

Arrived at the Eiffel Tower just as the lights began blinking. (If they did something like that at Disney World it would be considered tacky.)

Lovely sight: Pigeons, startled by the approach of the boat, took flight. We saw them lit from below against a pitch-black sky as they circled to return to roost.

Exited the Batobus and took the Metro from the Louvre to Gare de Lyon, where we had dinner in the smoking area at Le Train Bleu. This is a smaller, less crowded and much less noisy area than the large room by the bar. Hardly anyone was smoking.

Entrees of Marennes oysters and escargot from Bourgogne. Both plump, juicy and flavorful. These were accompanied by a 1/2 bottle of 2004 W. Ferre Chablis (17E), which was light and pleasant, but not as minerally as it should have been.

We each ordered fish for the mains; Nile perch with cepes in a puff pastry crust and Sole Meuniere (deboned at tableside). Both beautifully fresh and perfectly done.

Both accompanied by steamed seasonal vegetables and baby potatoes.

For wine, we had a 1/2 bottle of 2001 Comte de la Perriere Sancerre (22E) - a very good example of the breed.

Coffee was served in shot glasses, which my LW thought was cute, but she also likes the blinking lights on the Eiffle Tower.

Le Train Bleu does bring back the feeling of the old days, when passengers taking the long-distance, overnight trains stopped for supper before boarding (if you overlook the men not wearing jackets at dinner). Service is swift (mostly) and smooth, food is very good, ambiance is unabashedly Belle Epoque.

Since we were the last people in the restaurant, we were pleasantly (albeit swiftly) ushered out with sufficient time to catch the last Metro back to our hotel.

The lights and fountain were still on at St. Sulpice, and we were able to have a nightcap at the Café de la Mairie on the square, before everything went dark.

And so to bed.

Day 20

My Lady Wife, having greatly enjoyed Sarah Turnbull's "Almost French", we took the Metro Strasbourg St Denis and walked down to and through the Passage St. Foy (remnants of the old city wall) to Rue Aboukir. This is the garment district. Lots of flounced skirts and bright colors.

We took Aboukir to Petit Carreaux and turned left to get to Rue Montorgueil. A perfect shopping street with many, many cafes. Great diversity of faces, colors, clothes and languages. 'O and Co' was having a 1/2 price sale on its 2005 Moulin de l'Olivette olive oil from Provence - pleasantly smooth, slightly green with a spicy fillip at the finish - so I bought 2 litres and a little box of saffron.

Continuing to Les Halles, we turned right and walked over to rue Coquillière to 'La Cloche des Halles', Ms Turnbull's favorite wine bar. She doesn't have the same taste in wine bars that we have.

Retracing our steps, we stopped in at E. Dehillerin (kitchen and restaurant supplies) to see what we couldn't live without. An absolute zoo. A tour group of Japanese ladies of a certain age had completely mobbed the entrance way and cashier’s area, buying 10-15E worth of mementos each with traveler’s checks.

Working our way through the crowd, we spent a while in the basement, inspecting 25L stock pots, etc until it was safe to go upstairs. Fortunately, we found nothing that we needed, and went off for lunch at Au Pied de Cochon.

Starting with a ½ bottle of 2003 Ch Clos de Vaulecheres rose’ for Roberta and a Bier Pêcheure for me, we went on to a bowl of onion soup and the stuffed mussels for my Lady (16E) and the 18 E menu for me: 6 superb oysters followed by (what else) a grilled piggy foot (with frites and sauce Bernaise).

Fully restored, we walked to the Louvre stop of the Batobus and rode back to the Rue Bonaparte stop, did a little souvenir shopping and returned to the hotel.

Dinner at Le Petit Zinc (http://www.petit-zinc.com/) another Belle Epoque restaurant (Have you detected a pattern here?) in the Art Nouveau style. The center of the room is the non-smoking area. We thought that it was a bit empty when we arrived at 8:30, but by 9:00 there was a line waiting for tables.

Started with a 2003 Cuvee de Lices rose’ (very nice).

Roberta had 6 Breton oysters (excellent). I finally succumbed to the Special Oyster Offer being advertised all over town.

The Bretagne oystermen held a contest, judged by 5 1cl chefs, for creative ways to prepare oysters. The result is a 24E platter of 12. 4 of which are plain. The other 8 were pairs of: crème fraiche, orange, seaweed and fleur de sel. The latter two were interesting. The first two were, ... to be kind ..., not what God or Nature intended.

Oysters were followed by filet Rouges for my LW and the Tartare of tuna and salmon in a crème fraiche flavored with pomegranate and lemon. Both excellent.

The fish courses were properly complemented by a bottle of 2003 Le Chatillet Sancerre.

For an excellent dinner with wine, impeccably served in very pleasant surroundings – 145 E.

A few doors North on Rue St Benoit is Le Jazz Club, where Swing style jazz is the order of the day. Marcelle Zanini (clarinet and vocal) and Ahmed Gülbay (piano) gave us an enjoyable presentation of old and not so old standards and a few original pieces – very enjoyable. 6E cover charge + 1 drink - 28E.

It still being early (there were people on the streets), we walked up the street to Le Bilboquet for something entirely different. Hidegarde Wanzlawe, accompanied by a jazz combo, gave a lively performance of American and French songs. Her Eastern European accent (in both English and French) added a delightful layer to her scat singing.

Bobby Edwards, a local fellow with a great talent on the bass sax, sat in for a set of “Cherokee”. The whole group swang and the crowd went wild.

No cover charge. 36E for one drink each.

Tired, but happy, we returned to the hotel.

And so to bed

TBC

Geez... you two do eat and drink well. Its oyster time here on the east coast too... mmmm...sancerre and oysters mignonette... OK, that's Saturday for me!
But Ira...beautiful man, DH, writer, bonvivant..."swang"?

Hi suzie,

Really, they swang. :)

((I))

Day 21

Awoke late, had breakfast and did some souvenir shopping at Pierre Herme'. Various chocolates for friends and family, an assortment of macarons for me. I limit myself to one per day.

Off to the D'Orsay. First stop: lunch at the café'.

The café' is a pleasant room (too small for the crowds) with a large backward clock. Food is so-so. Prices are fairly high.

After lunch, we went off to see the Impressionists on the 5th floor. There is an express escalator at the East end of the building that goes directly to the 5th floor.

Carefully explored the entire exhibit. We were not impressed. We think that the presentation was much better when the Impressionists were housed in the Jau de Paume. At the D'Orsay, many of the paintings (especially the Pointillists) are in cubicles so small that you can't get back far enough to see the picture.

Note: The men's and women's toilets on the 5th floor are identical, except that there is a long line for the women's room. Ladies, don't be shy. Use the men's. (Saved my LW a 15 min wait by forcing her into the men's room and standing guard outside.)

Wandered through the rest of the D'Orsay, some very good stuff there, and slowly wandered back to the hotel.

Had an aperitif at the Café de la Mairie before walking down to Restaurant Lapérouse (51 quai Grands Augustins). This is a very old restaurant, founded in 1766, still in late 18th century style, with impeccable (yet very pleasant) service and really good food.

We were escorted to a window-side table on the 1st floor. Very nice view over the Seine to the Louvre and the Palais de Justice.

Aperitif of ½ bottle of 2001 Petit Corbin-Espagne Bordeaux (we were there). The wine took about 15 min to bloom – flavors of truffles, earth, tobacco and cherries in a medium-bodied St. Emilion.

Amuse bouche of biscuits with a cilantro-flavored fromage fraiche. Very good.
Amuse bouche 2: A ‘capucino’ of gazpacho with crème fraiche on top. Excellent

Roberta had the terrine maison (foie gras)with onion confit and a small loaf of bread. I had the “capucino’ of artichoke, served in a cast iron pot. This was a pea and artichoke soup flavored with bacon and topped with a whipped cream foam. It was accompanied by a very small (about 6 cm) sub sandwich composed of fennel and sweet red pepper. Both entrees were artfully done and delicious.

We followed with the John Dory in a cream sauce with wild mushrooms and cepes for my Lady Wife and three beautifully prepared and presented lamb chops for me. Both dishes were excellent.

We had a ½ bottle of a white Burgundy which went very well with Roberta’s fish and dessert, while I had another ½ bottle of the Bordeaux.

I had the cheese plate (2 sheep, 2 goat, 2 cow chosen from an offering of 12 kinds), and had the best Cabecou of the entire trip.

Roberta chose the desert of Mirabelle plums, flambe’ in Cognac, with vanilla ice cream. Beautifully flavored, light and tasty.

I made the mistake(?) of getting something akin to a Chocolate Surprise. A large soup plate of molten chocolate topped with a sugar-dusted baked crust was accompanied by banana ice cream with crumbles and a large spoon.

A second plate held a shot glass of crème anglais topped with raspberry puree, a teeny weeny pot of chocolate, an itsy bitsy Madeline and a tiny walnut loaf.

This tour de force was followed by coffee, with little chocolate truffles.

All in all a perfect last dinner in Paris, --- 285E --- much less than Taillevent or Alain Ducasse.

Floating on a euphoric cloud of fine food, we returned to the hotel.

And so to bed.

Day 22

Our last day: The weather has changed to cold, rainy and windy. My shoulders ache from carrying the camera all the time. We are tired of the same breakfast every morning. Our stomachs are rebelling from all of the rich food.

It is time to go home.

Uneventful departure from the Hotel, transfer to the airport, flight to ATL and ride home.

Mme Dumas has ‘retired’ to Les Baux (Provence) with her little dog and Napoleon the cat. She only comes to Paris about one week a month to keep an eye on things. Her son is now ‘in charge’ of the hotel.

I hope that you have found my little offering useful.

Many thanks to everyone, especially St Cirq, for helping us to plan an unforgettable visit to France Profond.

((I))

Dear Ira -

Your trip report is a revelation to all of us who love to travel. You have written a report that transports one to the places where you and your wife have ventured. Thanks so much for your wonderful recollections and also all the help you give to others on this message board.

Good job, Ira!!!

How much weight did you gain/loose on the trip?? I lost 5 pounds while dining on foie gras, duck, confit, pigeon, cheese, chocolate, etc. for 4+ weeks in the Dordogne.

Stu Dudley

I see that you arrived at the perfect frame of mind for your trip home.

It was good that you stood guard at the door while your wife used the ladies' room at the Musee d'Orsay. When I was at the Eiffel Tower and a similar inequality of lines prevailed, the attendant ushered me into the men's room. By the time I came out, there was a line of men waiting, pointing at me, and grabbing their, uh, crotches.

I'm interested to hear about le Bilboquet. I thought I had read that they serve dinner. Is there a separate place for people to sit who are not dining there? I am at any rate pleased to hear that you can just go in to listen to the music and have a drink, as this was not clear to me from reading about it. I have been hesitant to go to places after dinner when I know they serve, because I am not sure of the protocol.

Great report!!!

I have copied a lot of your recommendations into my Word document.

I also found the food at D’Orsay to be too pricey for the quality.

Thank you for taking the time to detail the good times as well as the rare bumps on the road.

A trip report of this detail takes a LOT of time to prepare... thank you for taking that time, Ira!

Hi all,

Thanks for the kind words.

Stu,

We put on weight driving around the South, but lost weight in Paris. I came out +1 lb. My LW lost 1 lb.

Hi Nikki,

Yes, they do serve at Bilboquet. I think the shows start about 9:30 or 10.

At any of the places that have shows, just tell them that you want to see the show. They will tell you if there are minimums or cover charges.

((I))