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If you had a week in Switzerland...
I know this is a super vague topic, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on what you'd do if you had a week's vacation to spend in Switzerland.
We have a week, and really NO agenda whatsoever, which makes planning hard. This is all I know: 1. Arrive from Salzburg late at night (into where? Doesn't matter.) 2. Leave from Lausanne to Lyon in AM 7 days later. 3. Will have a Swiss pass, 2 carry-ons, and no car with us. Priorities of experiences: 1. Eat raclette and fondue. 2. "Typical" Swiss experience - Heidi-like, chalets, cowbells... not to stereotype the Swiss, but this is just the type of thing we like to see! 3. Railways - at least 1 of the tourist Scenic Railways, and then maybe 1 other, or just a regular train ride that has nice views 4. At least 1 mountain experience. We like to hike and don't mind walking a lot. 5. If possible, experience all 3 (or 4) language regions of Switzerland, but if we need to leave 1 out, we think it would the the Italian (sorry!) If you had a week with these priorities in mind, what would YOU do? OR, if you had a week in Switzerland, how did you spend your time/vacation? Thanks in advance. |
first I would hone in on the fantastic Jungfrau Region around Interlaken - perhaps ensconce yourself in a mountain town like Grindelwald, Wengen, etc and have soaring glacier-girdled peaks in view from your hotel balcony - cows dotting the meadows leading up to the peaks - the quintessential Switzerland of your dreams - glaciers to walk to - a myriad of toy-lie mountain trains and thrilling aerial cable cars - hiking paths for all degrees of fitness, etc.
You can also take boat rides on the two lakes book-ending Interlaken - The Switzerland of your dreams: https://www.google.com/search?q=jung...w=1455&bih=977 From Salzburg you'd head via Zurich to Interlaken and then take tiny trains into the hills. Then move over to the French-speaking part of Switzerland - Lake Geneva area - Montreux and Vevey on the lake are perpetual favorites with Fodorites and there are loads of neat day trips to take - again boat rides on the lake (fully covered by a Swiss Pass) - the nearby lakeside Chateau Chillon, make famous by Lord Byron's sojourn there - the Chocolate Train, one of those special scenic trains on your wish list The Chocolate train rolls from Montreux to Gruyeres to look over this fine fine wallked town - a visit to a cheese factory is included - then the train rolls over to Broc for a Willy Wonkaesque visit to the Nestle Chocolate Factory before returning to Montreux - wine and cheese are served en route in vintage Belle-Epoque pullman cars. To get between Interlaken and Montreux you can also take a famous special scenic train - the Golden Pass train with the usual domes observation panoramic cars and special VIP seats! Fly out of Geneva or Zurich is not too far by train either. For lots of great stuff on Swiss trains and passes I always highlight: www.swisstravelsystem.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com. |
If *I* had a week in Switzerland, I'd spend it in Vevey & Montreux. But I doubt that would be most people's answer. I have friends living there and love that region along Lac Leman so that's where I'd go/stay.
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This is perfect and exactly what we are looking for. It does help as hone in on where to even begin. We usually like Rick Steves, but even his guide seems voluminous for a 1-week trip... Although we know we are asking a lot in a little time.
Suze... Thanks for your input! We know friends of friends in Lausanne, so that's why we are choosing to end there. It's helpful to hear how people think and what they'd do. Anyone else, please let's hear your thoughts! |
If I had a week in Switzerland I would kiss the world goodbye and go to an alpine valley with cows and flowers that Rick Steves never mentions in his books. I walk in meadows and sit by grand lakes. I might traverse a valley trail to look up at the peaks and maybe take a gondola ride, but mostly I would avoid the tourist "must sees".
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Sandralist... Any specific town come to mind where you'd do this?
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I would return to the chalet we rented outside of Grindelwald where I felt as if I could touch the Eiger.
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Things of interest (well things I liked) for your time at Lac Leman...
Chateau de Chillon http://www.chillon.ch/en/index.cfm Rochers de Naye tram http://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/r...-montreux.html and walk up to the Old Town in Montreux. Trip to Gruyeres and the castle there. http://www.chateau-gruyeres.ch/e/ Tues & Fri farmers street market in Vevey. Sat in Montreux. Walking the 'quai' (lakeside promenade) in Vevey and Montreux. Have your friends take you to 'Ouchy', the lakeside neighborhood of Lausanne for drinks or a meal. |
I don't think a week's enough time to spend time in areas with all 4 of the languages. Personally I'd leave out the Germans -haha.
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itspat,
Giving you a precise answer would require my buying a Rick Steves guide to Swizerland and eliminating the places he mentions, but here is one place I might start (but maybe Steves knows about it!) http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/axalp.html In reality, I think Switzerland is filled with beautiful meadows, lakes and valleys. I really love off the beaten path travel, and I have found that the internet can be a great resource for this, simply by doing a google search for "off the beaten path switzerland" and going from there. The first time I went to Switzerland, I was dumbstruck by the peaks, but what I personally remembered and treasured most was that I could walk from valley to valley, or meadow to meadow, or town to town. I just loved walking in Switzerland -- more than I loved taking trips with other tourist to see peaks or other sights. I also loved being by the lakes in Switzerland, which are surrounded by majestic and mysterious mountains. Were I planning a trip to Switzerland, one of the Google searches I would pursue is "beautiful mysterious lake views Switzerland" and see where that leads me. |
When I read your posts, the first thing that jumped to mind was the Berner Oberland, which is exactly what PalenQ also recommended. It fits your description of Heidi-like mountain scenery and cowbells, and is loaded with beautiful hikes to take. It was our favorite place in Switzerland. We stayed in Wengen and absolutely loved it, but there are other good choices in the area too. The area around Lake Geneva is also lovely, so perhaps 4 nights in the BO and 3 somewhere around Lausanne or Monteaux would make a nice week. Enjoy!
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From what you've said, I also think it makes sense for you to consider the Bernese Oberland and Lucerne. Get a few good guidebooks or look through some at your local library -- and do NOT limit yourselves to Rick Steves's book! See what most interests you and plot those things out on a calendar. Then, if you have extra time, see what other areas in Switzerland snag your interest or come back with some questions about other options.
Hope that helps! |
I like Lausanne, personally, because it has one of the best lakeside hotels anywhere but with only a week I would FORGET about going there other than to leave.
That said, I agree with somewhere along the lake and probably Montreux with a possible visit to Chillon. Yeah, the place is iconic, Lord Byron and all that, but inside there isn't a lot to see. The train up to Rochers de Naye: absolutely The Berner Oberland and the Jungfrau, most definitely and for at least two full days if possible. Luzern, also and with a 1/2 day trip either to Mt. Titlis or Mt. Pilatus |
Hi itspat,
You never say when this trip will be, and that could be important for your plans. But basically, I agree with the itinerary to include the Jungfrau area and then the Lake Geneva area -- it gives you plenty of contrasts, from pointy mountains in the German section to lush lakeside experiences in the French section. Yes, travel between the two by the Golden Pass routing, which goes by Gstaad and Zweisimmen; it's quite stunning to enjoy the scenery as it moves from the high Alps to the low, green, rolling hills, and finally ending at the sparkling blue waters of Lake Geneva. If you want, you can break up the trip with a stop in Gstaad for lunch and a stroll through the hills, or even in Gruyeres and Broc-Fabrique to see the cheese demonstration and the chocolate factory. If you did the Chocolate Train from Montreux, it would be repeating the scenery/trip on the Golden Pass route, and it would eat up one of your very few days in Montreux, so I recommend that you see those things enroute if you want to. Since you have so few days in Montreux, I don't recommend a trip to the Rochers-de-Naye, particularly since you'll be coming from the high Alps. Hopefully you will have gotten quite a lot of gorgeous mountaintop experiences and views while in the Jungfrau retion. Again, since you have so little time in Montreux, I would spend that time seeing the things that are unique to that area. I would recommend at least half a day in the vineyards of the Lavaux (between Vevey and Lausanne), and that can be nicely combined with half a day getting lost in the old town of Vevey, which is right next to the lake. I would also recommend about a day just in Montreux -- walk along the lake to Chillon (45 minutes), see Chillon (2h), then continue the walk to the town of Villeneuve (45 minutes). You can take bus #201 back to Montreux. Explore the hills and lanes in the old town above the lake, and have lunch in one of the restaurants that the tourists never get to. Spend a few hours sitting on a bench by the lake and watch the human parade: Swiss matrons in Chanel walking with their punked-out nephews and nieces, rock-star has-beens rolling stoned down the promenade, tourist families from Australia and Japan and the U.S. mingling and giggling and soaking up the views across the lake, fashionable families from Paris out for a quick weekend, students from the many international schools and hotel schools on a break from their studies, etc. Have fun as you plan! s |
you can break up the trip with a stop in Gstaad for lunch and a stroll through the hills, or even in Gruyeres and Broc-Fabrique to see the cheese demonstration and the chocolate factory.>
To clarify - Gstaad is right on the Golden Pass route - but to get to Gruyeres and Broc reuires detouring off the GP line and probably a couple of changes of train. You would change off the GP line at Montbovon - it's about an hour straight thru via Gruyeres from Montbovon Broc Fabrique station, for the chocolate factory tour - another hour to come back plus see Gruyeres and do the chocolate tour - well maybe do one of those things on what is already a long train trip from the Interlaken area to Montreux. I'd suggest a more leisure tour either on your own using local trains or the official Chocolate Train which has the trappings of a guided tour. http://www.swisstravelsystem.com/en/...ate-train.html |
<but inside there isn't a lot to see.>
There's not "a lot" to see inside Chateau de Chillon??? Really?? That's news to me. It's FABULOUS. Don't miss the toilets and the dungeon. Actually I prefer the castle at Gruyeres because it's not as old and is fully furnished to the period. |
One thing not to miss in Monreux/Vevey area is to take a boat ride on Lake Le Man - you can go over to France - to wank Evian-les-Bains, a spiffy spa town and get a taste of France and the famous water named after the source of it in town. Swiss Passes are fully valid on boats even though they go to France.
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Thank you, Fodorites! This is perfect and exactly the type of posts/advice I'd hoped for. Thanks much.
Couple more vague questions: 1. We are quite satisfied with splitting up time between Jungfrau region and Lake Geneva area. In your personal opinion, are we missing anything by eliminating Lucern and not getting Mt. Pilatus/Titlis experience, or the Matterhorn experience further south? I want to say we don't need to tick off tourist requirements, and I'm sure they are glorious, but do you personally feel the scenery in Jungfrau area is just as spectacular? How is it different? 2. In general, we respect Rick Steves' advice and have used his guides on many trips. We just find that, wherever we go, everyone has his book and is clamoring to do the same thing! In Jungfrau, any suggestions of where you'd go to still be convenient to the sites (and raclette/fondue!) and a train station and still be off the beaten path a bit? 3. How does Switzerland preserve the cowbells and Heidi-like atmosphere when there are so many tourists all over the place? Is it real, or is some of it staged for tourists? Thanks again... your advice made a difference! |
PS - trip is in early September... does that change things a bit?
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the Jungfraujoch is just as spectacular as the Matterhorn. I liked doing both, but I had 2 weeks not just 1. The Matterhorn is iconic, of course, but you'll be okay missing it.
Sure, you're missing something by not doing Lucerne, but if you try to shoe horn it into your week, you'd be missing something else. 2 locations in 1 week is good. You'll enjoy it. I did Rigi and it was great, but really the area around the Berner Oberland is better. here's a photo from the Jungfraujoch: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink See? pretty spectacular, eh? I liked the Baeren Hotel in Wengen. We had lovely views from our window, and just walking from there you could see chalets and cowbells and scenery like this: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink that should fulfill your "Heidi-like" image. it did for me :) |
PS: I agree with Suze that Chateau Chillon has lots to see, but then I really like castles and castle architecture. The audio tour takes a bit more than an hour, but its quite good. ANd if you don't feel like walking there (which is a lovely suggestion, but if you have bad feet like me, may not be practical), arriving by ferry boat is quite nice and only takes 20 minutes from Montreux.
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1. I don't know. I've been to Switzerland 5 times and only to Geneva, Lausanne, Gruyeres, Vevey, La Tour-de-Peilz, Montreux, Villeneuve. I don't know what I'm missing (lol).
2. I have never seen a tourist with a Rick Steves guidebook where I've been in Switzerland. Lac Leman isn't tourist central like some of the other places often recommended. 3. Again, there simply are not "so many tourists all over the place". And believe me it is very REAL. I've been at parades where they bring the cows thru town all dressed up in their cowbells and flower wreaths. Raclette and fondue (you've mentioned several times) are really a winter thing. But there are some restaurants that serve it year-round, or that you can find (raclette) being made at a street fair or festival. |
Three days in/around Wengen.
Three days in Zermatt. Take the gondola up to the Klein Matterhorn, then down one stop to Trockener Steg and hike back to Zermatt. One day resting feet. |
but do you personally feel the scenery in Jungfrau area is just as spectacular? How is it different?>
Zermatt is spectacular because of the Matterhorn and accompanying rugged high Alpine peaks. Teh Jungfrau Massif is just as awesome IMO though doe snot have a single peak so famous as the Matterhorn (which can be fogged or clouded in at times for days as can the Jungfrau Massif) - but IME of visiting both many times the Jungfrau Region has much more and varied things to do for 3-4 days than Zermatt: hiking trails for all degrees of difficulty boat rides on the lake book-ending Interlaken Day trips in foul weather like to Bern and Lucerne - Zermatt is so so isolated that in foul weather it is 2 hours or so to the nearest real city and none so awesome as Bern or Lucerne Several mountain towns like Wengen, Murren, Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen - Zermatt has one town - Zermatt, a busy busy place whereas some of the Jungfrau towns cannot even be reached by car. Jungfrau has the Schilthorn too - redolent of James Bond On Her Majesty's Service film which was in part shot in that then under construction revolving restaurant on a rocky spit of turf miles from anywhere. And even Interlaken and the William Tell Theatre and famous casino and all around pleasant town once you get off its kitschy touristed main drag. Zermatt is a smaller area and basically all mountains and hiking. Both are awesome but the Jungfrau wins hands down to me if you much choose and you can happily spend more days here than at Zermatt for the common bloke traveler anyway. |
This is a fun read. Especially go on to page 2. This is the sort of trip to Switzerland that appeals to me, combined with walks in not-famous valleys and meadows
http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20...ists-dont-take |
See Wengen and die!
You will never see a more beautiful place in your lifetime. Thin |
Yes, itspat, you will be making some compromises by seeing two destinations instead of four, but it's the right decision. It's not any better to stop in four places in 6 nights and see only the main streets and little else (you'll spend too much time inside hotels/hotel rooms/trains/train stations as you make each change).
I didn't see Luzern until about my 8th trip or so to Switzerland -- and there are still many, many places on my list that I *need* to visit, lol (Sils, Fribourg, Rolle, Romont, Lac de la Gruyere, Palezieux), and I am getting to them slowly. As for off-the-beaten-track places, one is the old town of Montreux. Just walk UPhill from practically anywhere in town and enjoy the small lanes and alleys. There are many small restaurants in the old town, and the food and prices are better than down by the lake imo. That's where the locals eat. You may be able to find fondue & Raclette there. You will definitely find them in Gruyeres or in Chateau d'Oex year round. Oh, and it's just one change of train to get to Gruyeres -- change at Montbovon. s |
I live in Switzerland and bought a Rick Steves' book after meeting Americans on their way to Gimmelwald and having to explain to my Swiss friends where that is.
Rick Steves has some good ideas in his book and the Swiss tourism industry is (perhaps unconsciously) grateful for bringing tourist to Switzerland. Although the Swiss do not flock to Berner Oberland, it's not because it isn't beautiful. It's due to the outdoor possibilities in in their own backyard and in many other regions as well. There are beautiful alpine meadows all over but the Berner Oberland is the most accessible for tourists who don't have a lot of time. |
See Wengen and die!>
Proof that Wengen is a geriatrics stronghold! |
Wonderful! Our trip is materializing before my eyes. Thanks again to all of you.
Sandralist - we have seen that article! It's really good advice. Now I'm a bit worried about raclette/fondue... I really hope we can find some in September! They are my favorites... Mouth is watering... |
Don't be "worried" (lol). There are restaurants that specialize in fondue so serve it year-round.
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You have about as much chance of NOT finding fondue or raclette as in not finding chocolate there or cows!
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I really looked forward to having fondue and other melted cheese dishes in Switzerland, and when I finally got there and went to the recommended restaurants that had them, I almost passed out from the smell, which instantly reminded me of unwashed gym socks.
My Swiss dish has switched to being röschti. |
That is the smell of excellent cheeses.
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We will try to keep the smell of the cheese in perspective.
Last questions regarding the trip into Switzerland, which I know has been asked a lot but despite trying to do my homework I just am having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Here is the journey (per SBB website) that we would like to take: Outward journey Salzburg Hbf - Interlaken Ost Via Zürich HB - Bern Tue, 02.09.14, 07:56 - 15:28 Hour Duration: 07:32, 2x Change(s) It is listed as 167.00 CHF per person. How do we apply a Swiss Pass? Am I looking at this the right way? Is this the route we want to take (for scenery and traveling convenience)? I feel like I have seen people do this journey for much cheaper. Is it a "big deal" to change trains quickly with a roller carry-on each person? Also, is it difficult to navigate this same carry-on luggage if we choose not to stay in Interlaken, but rather go to Lauterbrunnen, Gimmelwald, Murren, Wengen, or some other small town (and have to take a cable car, etc.)? What is the latest you would arrive in Interlaken to connect to one of these smaller towns? Once there, are you truly secluded and have to come back into town to eat, etc.? Planning to take the Golden Pass tourist train from Interlaken to Montreaux. Thanks! |
It is listed as 167.00 CHF per person. How do we apply a Swiss Pass?>
Swiss Pass will kick in from Buchs SG border station so in Austria buy a ticket to Buchs SG (on the fastest more direct route Salzburg to Zurich)- but buy an Austrian ticket to the Swiss border station then your Swiss Pass kicks in - you do not have to get off the train to validate your pass because if coming on a train from another country you can then (and only then) have the conductor validate the pass on board. In all other cases you must go up to a ticket window and have your pass validated before your first ride using it. |
Yes checking schedules the most direct route from Salzburg to Zurich does use the border station as Buchs SG - so buy a ticket from Salzburg to Buch SG then use your pass.
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Thank you all so much. Very excited. We decided, based on reading several threads/opinions on Fodors, to stay in Interlaken for our Bernese Oberland portion of the trip. We know it will be a bit of a trip to everywhere else, but that is part of what we are looking forward to - the trips within the trip. Now, on to plan the French part of things... so much fun!
PalenQ - thanks, you are a world of information. Just to be clear as mud... we are taking the Railjet 364 which goes from Salzburg to Buchs and arrives at 1206. Then at 1212, Buchs to Interlaken commences on Railjet 364 (according to OBB and SBB websites, with stops in Zurich and Bern). We only buy the ticket from Salzburg to Buchs, stay ON the train, and then show the conductor our Swiss Pass on the train in Buchs and will be able to continue on the same train toward Interlaken. Is that how it works? |
If you can, go up to Murren and walk the Panoramaweg. Spectacular views and you'll also have the option to ride or walk up to Schilthorn if that appeals.
Have a wonderful trip. September is absolutely my favorite time for walking/hiking in Switzerland. |
In case no one mentioned it, the other great walk is from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg. Take the cable up to Mannlichen from Wengen.
Bring a camera. |
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