How would you spend four days in Dresden in December?
 

Our Christmas trip to Germany has been booked since July, but we've had barely a minute to sort out the details.

The main attraction of Dresden for us is 1) we've never been there and 2) it's home to the oldest Christmas market in Germany.

I'm feverishly researching the possibilities, but also hoping the Fodorites can offer some suggestions.

We're open to just about anything, but are quite fond of walking, outdoor activities (yes, I know it's December) and of course Christmas markets!

Any suggestions for specific places to eat/foods to try also welcomed.

First of all, Dresden has several Christmas markets:

Striezelmarkt is the biggest one and a Christmas market which is similar to those in other German cities.

Mittelalter Weihnacht im Stallhof is themed to medieval times, certainly fun to visit and quite different.

The Neumarkt in front of the Frauenkirche is themed to 19th century and very romantic.

At the Postplatz you find Apres-Ski-atmosphere with loud music, dancing, curling etc.

There are five more - you will see when you are there.

Second, Dresden has a lot of attractions: The Castle with the gallery, the Green Vault with a breathtaking collection of jewellery (a must-see), the historical opera house built by Semper, the Frauenkirche, the boardwalk along river, etc.

Daytrips from Dresden may lead you into the Sächsische Schweiz with unusual rock formations or to MOritzburg Castle, Pillnitz Castle or Meissen with its famous porcelain factory.

Certainly enough to keep you occupied.

You are aware that the Christmas markets close on December 23?

The only thing of much interest that I saw in Dresden was the Green Vault, for me. I really enjoyed my daytrip to Leipzig from there, however. I wasn't there at Christmas.

Thank you both, very helpful.

<You are aware that the Christmas markets close on December 23?>

We arrive in Dresden Dec 2, depart from Munich Dec 24.

The itinerary:

Dresden - four nights
Annaberg-Buchholz - four nights
Bamberg - four nights
Garmisch - four nights
Munich - six nights

Thought I'd tackle the questions a city at a time as I'm a wee bit overwhelmed at the moment.

Hi Melnq8,

I would also add a visit to Meissen, a nice little town, in addition to being the home to the porcelain manufacturers.

Let me know if you'd like any hints or comments about Garmisch -- and let me know if you want to meet for a drink! Love to meet you. I'm active on the Bavaria forum at TA, so you can send me a pm from there.

s

That sounds like a nice trip, Mel. When we went a few years ago we only spent a day or two in/around Dresden and felt very short-changed. The museums are great, the Frauenkirche a miracle, and it makes a good base for day trips.

We also went to Bamberg last year - I have to say that I'm not sure how you are going to fill 4 days there, unless you are going to do day trips from there as well, but perhaps you know something we missed!

I would also think that 4 nights in Bamberg are questionable. Better 2 nights in Bamberg and 2 nights in Rothenburg ob der Tauber or 2 nights in Berchtesgaden.

swandav -

Funnily enough, I did some research on Meissen last night and came to the same conclusion. Gorlitz is also a possibility, and of course that long list of Christmas Markets in Dresden, of which I've printed all the details.

I do need hints about Garmisch, and I'd love to meet up for a drink! We've done the Zugspitz a few times, but there is an excursion or two we'd still like to take. I referred to it in an earlier post, but my brain is like swiss cheese lately so will have to find it and post back.

annhig - Another poster made a similar comment about Bamberg, and I'm pretty clueless about what's on offer. You know us though, we're easily entertained and seldom run out of things to do regardless of where we are. I could perhaps add an extra night to Garmisch if need be though.

traveller1959 - Thank you. We've been to Rothenburg ob der Tauber many times, the most recent for three nights in 2013. I suspect my spouse is Rothenburged out, although I'd love to return on a girls trip at some point.

We've also been to Berchtesgaden, although its been several years - we loved it. Not sure how it'd fit into this itinerary though (?). Can you help with logistics? (traveling via train).

I've been to Dresden for 28 days in December and was never bored. Was also there on other Decembers for 5 days (2x). Also never bored. As Ingo says, there are several markets, each with their own flavor, as well as soom great museums, music venues and day trip possibilities.

I agree with the other posters who are questioning whether or not 4 days in Bamberg are really necessary. It's a lovely town that escaped bombing during the war but it also is pretty small.

Perhaps you could carve out a couple days from Bamberg and another couple of days from Munich and go toward the Harz mountain area to visit Quedlinburg, Wernigerode, and Goslar. If you could rent a vehicle for a few days, that would be ideal for the area but it is accessible by train.

We visited Dresden for 6 days in 2014 and there's a lot to see: the Zwinger, (museum -- the gardens won't be of much interest in Dec. I imagine) Semper Oper, Albertinum, Residenzeschloss, Konigstein Fortress, many old churches, and the Green Vault -- (order timed tickets in advance.) The old town area is fairly compact and easy to navigate.If you need more ideas you can find them on Trip Advisor.

We loved Dresden and would very much like to return some time.

I'm suddenly worried about Bamberg...any suggestions for day trips in the vicinity?

Nürnberg, Coburg, Bayreuth, Würzburg, Erlangen, Erfurt... Lauscha in the Thuringian Forest (centre of glass-making and birthplace of the Christmas bauble).
Franconian Switzerland if the weather is fine.

No worries - there are plenty of possibilities to keep you busy.

Stayed 7 nights in Bamberg in May 2012, taking several daytrips, to places such as Nuernberg, Wuerzburg, Ingolstadt and to see Vierzehnheilugen Basilica. Bought the Bierschmecker beer-sampling (self-guided) tour. Don't regret "all" the time in this very scenic large town!
(We also daytripped to tiny Amberg, but this was specifically for the Pentecost Fair.) Would've loved more time....! I did a TR if interested!

I enjoyed my night in Görlitz. I'll bet it would be pretty with snow on the ground.

Thanks for that quokka and mokka4!

there you are Mel - quokka and mokka to the rescue. Of the places mentioned, we liked Wurzburg and Erfurth - didn't make it to the others. I can recommend the Best Western hotel Bamberg as a good place to stay - half way between the town and the railway station if you are going to be using the trains for your day trips, and with a garage right underneath the hotel if you're going to be driving.

re the idea to go to the Harz - nice in summer but it's quite a long way off your route and it would take time out of the rest of your trip just getting there and back, for questionable benefit if the weather's bad.

I'd spend the whole time at the Christmas market drinking Gluhwein and listening to music.

annhig -

As it happens we're booked at the Best Western in Bamberg. Happy to hear I've made a good choice.

will you be driving, Mel? if so, avoid my "hilarious" attempts to try to access the garage from the parking space in the front of the hotel, and drive straight in, then get the lift up to reception.

We found it very comfortable and quiet, there is a laundry for guests' use on the third ? floor, and the breakfast was very good. You can also get free tea and coffee from reception and there is a bar as well.

It's about 10 mins walk from the town with some of the Brauerei even closer.

Hi Melnq8,

cannot remember where you'll be staying in Dresden ... one of the residential areas (Blasewitz?) or old town?

Well, that's only an afternoon/evening and three full days in Dresden, right? It looks like you'd like to do at least one day trip out of the city (which is reasonable), and my choice would be either Görlitz or Bautzen for Christmas markets and beautiful old town/architecture, or Meißen for old town, castle, cathedral, porcelain manufacture maybe, but not for the Christmas market (was the least attractive of the three mentioned, mostly food/Glühwein, only very few Christmas items/craftwork).

As for Dresden - it depends on what exactly you're interested in. The Christmas markets are a must, I think. Striezelmarkt, of course. Sample Dresdner Christstollen, gingerbread from Pulsnitz, Glüchwein, have Bratwurst at Bean & Beluga's stall. Mon through Fri at 5 pm are free concerts in the neighbouring Kreuzkirche. Another must is the 'Anno 1900' Christmas market on Neumarkt square in front of Frauenkirche. Bakery Gradel has yummy gingerbread, Baumkuchen etc. Organic food at Vorwerk Podemus stall.

Stroll over the medieval themed market in the Renaissance courtyard behind the mural 'Procession of Princes' (former jousting yard). It's a different ambience. Caution: A couple of Euros admission fee on weekends.

Across the river along pedestrian zone "Hauptstrasse" is Augustusmarkt, with white tents instead of wooden stalls. Slightly lower prices there for Glühwein, Bratwurst etc.

A very charming Christmas market is in Dresden-Loschwitz near Blue Wonder bridge/Körnerplatz square. Small, artisans, village-type ambience. Drop into Cafe Wippler across the street, have a slice of Christstollen and caffe latte or hot chocolate ... :-)

As for museums - the Folk Art Museum has a lovely Christmas exhibit. Ditto the City History Museum (Landhaus). Maybe you'd like to check out a couple of the art museums - Green Vault(s), Picture Galleries, Porcelain collection, Scientific instruments/watches, coins, armory ... www.skd.museum

Somewhat unusual are the Hygiene museum (not only about hygiene, more biology/society) and the Military History museum (which is more anti-military). Wine tastings are options. Narrow-gauge steam train rides (Radebeul-Moritzburg or Freital-Dippoldiswalde), cruises on the river, there are castles (Moritzburg, Pillnitz, Weesenstein ...) and fortress Königstein with a Christmas market on weekends. Check out www.schloesserland-sachsen.de

Last but not least, if you're up to it I'd be happy to show you around for a couple of hours. Either old town, the more quirky new town, or the quieter, rural area between Loschwitz and Pillnitz would be ideas.

annhig -

No, we're traveling by train which is the primary reason we chose The Best Western - location.

Ingo -

Your previous comments made me worry about my first booking (Loschwitzer Straße, noise and 'basement smell' issues), so I've booked at a small establishment on Ludwigstrasse, in the middle of the city, but on a quiet side street from what I understand).

As always, your suggestions are wonderful and much appreciated. Would love to meet up if you're available!

Ludwigstraße, 01156 Dresden? It's the only Ludwigstraße I know in Dresden, and it's far in the outskirts!

We'll work out a meet up. :-)

Sorry, there are indeed two streets named "Ludwigstraße" in Dresden. The one you refered to is indeed closer to the old town. Walking distance to the old town is not just 5 minutes as listed, though. I'd say 15 minutes.

Thank Ingo. Fifteen minutes is no drama, we love walking. The hotel seemed a good option as its on the Elbe River, a five minute walk from the historic Neustadt district, within easy reach of the Frauenkirche church, Semper Opera House and Brühl Terrace, two minutes from a tram stop and a five minute walk to the Neustadt train station (per their website anyway).

You mentioned in an earlier thread that buying point-to-point train tickets in advance was the way to go. I assume you're referring to our intercity travel only? By that I mean our trip from Dresden to Annaberg, from Annaberg to Bamberg, from Bamberg to Garmisch, etc).

I assume day trips won't require advance purchase? I'm a planner, but not that much of a planner:)

May I contact you on TA via PM? I think I know your screen name there.

I just wanted to mention the distance to the old town. Yep, 15 minutes are not really a problem - but they may be in December, if/when it's going to be cold and windy ...

Yes, point-to-point tickets in advance are the way to go for long distance travel, and only if it includes fast trains: IC, ICE, EC. Not for RB, RE, ALX or so.

For Dresden - Annaberg-Buchholz your best option is the Sachsen-Ticket. You can buy it from a machine in the Dresden-Neustadt train station, cost is 27 Euro for two travellers. It is valid the whole day (Sunday, right?), covers all regional trains and the buses in the VMS network (roughly spoken Erzgebirge mountains, from Freiberg on via Chemnitz to Annaberg and beyond.) but NOT the trams and buses in Dresden. So you need to walk the five minutes to the train station Dresden-Neustadt :( You can buy this ticket either in advance or on the same day, must select the day of travel during the process of buying at the machine (also the number of persons), then fill in the name of one of you guys after it's printed, before you board the train.

From Annaberg to Bamberg it depends - either a "Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket", which covers all regional trains in Germany on that day after 9 am - if you ride regional trains only. Or you find a connection that includes fast trains (unlikely, only through Leipzig and takes longer), so you could buy tickets in advance for saver fare.

From Bamberg to Garmisch you're most likely better of with those saver tickets in advance. Right now there are many options for those, hourly connections for 49 Euro for two people.

No advance purchase for day trips, right :-)

Sure, contact me on TA via PM. I'm looking forward to hearing from you. ;-)

If you, or someone in your party is an auto enthusiast, then you might want to consider the VW factory tour in Dresden. It is in all glass building and is very enjoyable. It also offers something a little bit different than museums, markets and is in town. You can google for booking details.

Thank you Poconolady, great suggestion.

Ingo, I just saw your most recent post, which is quite helpful.

The travel times to other towns in the Erzgebirge mountains seems quite time consuming, so we're giving serious consideration to renting a car the day we depart Dresden, using it for our time in the Erzgebirge, and possibly keeping it for the duration in Bamberg, to facilitate day trips, then using the train thereafter.

That would mean a pick up in Dresden and drop off in Bamberg, keeping the car for about a week.

Winter days are so short that we're not inclined to spend hours on trains/buses getting to some of the towns with limited schedules. A car seems to make sense, especially as we like to keep things flexible.

I believe Alt Hotel Annaberg and Best Western Bamberg have parking facilities (I shall double check), and I assume the small towns will have parking areas on the outskirts, which may involve pay parking. Safe assumption?

Mel, I can confirm that the Best Western Bamberg does have a garage, right underneath the hotel.

don't do what I did, but drive straight down into the garage from the street and then get the lift up to reception.

Cheers for that annhig. Will do.

Yes, it makes sense to rent a car for the smaller towns. I doubt Garni Alt Annaberg has a private parking facility; as far as I know it's streetside parking, which can be a problem - especially if you arrive late and the locals were quicker.

Did you see my Annaberg-Buchholz page on Virtualtourist.com? Here is the link to my "Driving" tip in the transportation category: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/24113f/
The third picture is (if I am not totally wrong) the small street where Alt Annaberg is (I think it's the third building from the left).

More via PM on TA :-)

Thanks Ingo, I printed your info on driving.

We're trying to sort out the car rental but not sure at which location in Dresden to collect it (easily accessible from the City-Oase) and which location to leave it once finished in Bamberg (easily accessible from The Best Western).

Any thoughts?

Another thought...maybe we should just rent the car for the Annaberg portion, then drive to Bamberg, drop off the car and explore the surrounding towns via train? Best as I can tell access from Bamberg to some of the surrounding towns mentioned by mokka is pretty straightforward via train, unlike in the Erzgebirge?

I know that Europcar and Sixt have rental car stations at the railway station Dresden-Neustadt, a 5-10 minutes walk from your place. Even closer is Hertz, only 2 minutes away (crossing Antonstr./Leipziger Str.)

Europcar and Sixt have stations in Bamberg, too - about a mile from your hotel. Hertz station is a bit closer.

Yes, the places mokka mentioned are easily accessible by rail, even faster than by driving (traffic during Advent season!) and this would save you the hassle of finding parking etc. If you travel on the Bayern ticket, valid for a full day, this also includes public transportation in the towns/cities.

As usual, your info is invaluable Ingo.

After checking rates, excess, parking and the like, we're back to train travel. Those Hertz offices are certainly very convenient, but renting a car presents a whole different set of issues as you've pointed out. I think we'll just bite the bullet and spend whatever time is necessary on buses while in the Erzgebirge and plan accordingly.

Regarding the Sachsen Ticket...my impression is that it has to be purchased ahead of time, but you said we can buy it at a ticket machine? If so, that would be a big help, as we'd rather wing it as much as possible.

I'm looking into the day trip suggestions made by quokka (thank you!). We're leaning towards Wurzburg over Nurnburg as it's much smaller and seems more our style, and possibly Lauscha. Curious about the others too quokka, and wondering what you liked about each place?

PS - quokka - it's snowing like gangbusters here today in the Colorado mountains, something tells me it's much warmer where you are.

Yes, the Sachsen ticket can be bought from ticket machines. You enter the date and number of persons travelling during the process. All you need to do is to fill in one of your names and then it's validated.

Btw, if you're travelling to Meißen, Pirna, Bautzen or so, there are other, less expensive options for tickets. Let me know which trips you plan so I can advise you properly.

As for the Annaberg/Erzgebirge portion, on second thought I believe the only destination for which a car would be more convenient is Seiffen. Schneeberg, Schwarzenberg, the castles along the Zschopau river, Oberwiesenthal ... everything's easily doable by train/bus.

> PS - quokka - it's snowing like gangbusters here today in the Colorado mountains, something tells me it's much warmer where you are.

+14°C right now (midnight). But temperatures are predicted to drop drastically next weekend. From then onwards even frosty nights and the occasional snow shower may occur. About time in the last decade of November...

Wow, wasn't expecting that.

14 inches of snow here.

Hi Melnq8,

My eye caught "Dresden" on a post in Germany, and then I saw your name.

We were there for a very short stint in September, which I just finished writing about in our TR above. We were really impressed with Dresden, as we noted in our report.

14 inches of snow!!! Wow! Interesting that we just received an e-mail offer from a place in Manitou Springs where we had stayed a few years ago: The Avenue Hotel B & B! Might that be close to your new home?

We still feel so grateful to you for your very helpful advice for our trip to NZ!

Have a great trip to Germany!