Honoring my Father, Belgium, Amsterdam, London and TWO GTGs
 

Background: Some of you helped w/ my questions about re-tracing my father's footsteps during the Battle of the Bulge/Battle for the Ardennes. The impetus for this trip was a series of accidents . . . finding a 1946 letter from my Dad to the War Department requesting a partial disability and the reply denying it but including the name of the village where my Dad was injured; meeting a bartender at the Grand Californian who's family is from SE Belgium who put me in contact w/ a man who was a 9yo living outside of Bastogne during the winter of '44/'45 and who since retiring has devoted his life to studying the battle and guiding people around the area; finding a sort of 'throw away' line in my Mom's memoir where I first learned of the unit my Dad was temporarily attached to during the battle, and a 1947 post card from one of the guys in my Dad's platoon briefly mentioning the battle.

I wasn't hunting for any of these -- they all just sort of fell in my lap in Jan/Feb of this year (My father passed away unexpectedly in 2006 at 84 so he wasn't around to ask . . . and very seldom talked about his time in the ETO anyway. Mom died in 2011 at 87)

So visiting SE Belgium for sure - now what else should I include? Well London is just about a given -- I try to get there 2 or 3 ties a year. As long as I'll be in Belgium I'd like to fit in Brugge somehow. And since I'm in the neighborhood -- a few days in Amsterdam.

So the initial plan was:

Fly into LHR and stay one night at the St Pancras Renaissance; Eurostar to Brussels and on to Brugge for one night; Train across Belgium to Stavelot (near Spa) for three nights including a full day w/ driver/guide touring around the Ardennes; Train to Amsterdam for 3 nights; Flight to LGW and 4 nights in London; Fly home. Plans did morph because 1) a Belgian rail strike forced me into two nights in Brugge/two nights in the Ardennes and 2) a bit of brain fade on my part gave me 6 nights in London instead of 4. (all to the good but both required me to pack and move to different hotels/rooms)

<B>April 19/20</B>. Overnight flight from SMF through LAX to LHR arriving late morning. Like last London trip I booked business over and coach home because I figure in Only need the lie-flat bed on the overnight flight. Doing it this way saved me more than $2000 on the tix. Totally lovely flight - really good food - didn't sleep that much but did manage to relax and stretch out so I wasn't a basket case when I got to LHR. Because I flew Business I had Lounge access and because my room might not yet be ready I visited the landside Admirals Club for about an hour, watched some telly, had a bite to eat and glass of wine then headed to the tube station topped up my Oyster and set out to St Pancras.

I've wanted to stay at the Renaissance since it reopened several years ago - but the historic rooms/suites are a bit above my pay grade. Taking an early morning Eurostar I decided this was as good a time as any. But I simply couldn't pull the trigger on a £480 room -- so I booked a room in the contemporary Barlow wing @ £220. I knew it would probably be sort of Holiday Inn-ish -- but I could still enjoy the public rooms and service . . .

Welll . . . I arrive at St Pancras and after faffing about looking for the hotel (i did know exactly where the hotel is but the signage in the station is pitiful and how to get there from the concourse isn't easy) I was giving up and about to walk out on to Euston Rd to come back in the hotel's front door when I found the only sign near the glass lift. Wheeled my little carry on through the lovely lobby and a very nice woman at the registration desk chatted for a while "<i>I've always wanted to stay here - but for just one night decided the Barlow wing would be fine. Someday I'll try to stay in one of the historic rooms. blah blah blah.</i>" After about 5 minutes she winked at me -- yes winked(!). "Oh, Ms janisj - the hotel is totally booked. So we've placed you IN A SUITE IN THE HISTORIC WING"

OMG OMG OMG -- I have never seen such a massive room in London. Easily 20 foot ceilings. Huge bed. Chaise lounge. Couch. Three 18 foot windows out over Euston Road w/ floor to ceiling drapes. Fireplace. Dressing table at the end of the bed w/ truffles and three kinds of mineral water. Enormous marble bathroom w/ an 8 foot tub and two person shower. Ell around the corner w/ a table/chairs and built in bench. The bench seat raised and there were various ports and electrical sockets of every type I've ever seen -- UK/Continental/US/OZ etc.

When I unpacked I decided to hand wash the blouse and undies I'd been wearing for 27 hours before heading out. I rolled them in a hand towel but they were still pretty wet and I hung them on the shower door. When I returned a couple of hours later -- turn down service had been done, all the various decorator pillows/shams were stashed away someplace, more truffles, biscuits . . . and my laundry was totally dry and hung in the closet??? How did they <i>do</i> that? Ask me if I loved this place . . . HECK YEAH :)

All I did this afternoon was go to the Shard -- when I went up last year it was drippy and overcast and there was very little view and today was GORGEOUS, so I decided to do it again. Expensive . . . but what the hey -- I'm staying in a bleedin' SUITE at the St Pancras Renaissance . . I'm officially a member of the 1% and can afford it ;) Then I had dinner in Covent Garden and returned to my SUITE at the hotel . . .

My Eurostar is early in the AM so I requested a 06:30 wake up call. I woke up on my own about 0615 and decided to stay in bed til the call came. 0630 and nothing. 0635 and there is a knock at the door. There stands a butler (a BUTLER :) ) . . . apparently last night when I made a phone call I had put the receiver in the cradle wrong so when they tried to phone me - nothing. And w/i 5 mins there was my wake up at the door. Did I say I love this place :D

Next: Delayed Eurostar, cute hotel in Brugge, fabulous beer, trapped in the city an extra night and having to find someplace to stay

What a fantastic start to your trip janis! Love it.
Looking forward to the rest.

What a great start! I hope the rest of the trip is as amazing!

It really was a bit of serendipity at work in finding out about your father's war - time experience. Meant to be.

I'm booked into the St.Pancras Renaissance for one night on my upcoming trip.Last year I stayed across the street at The Great Northern and liked it, but this year I found the prices at the Renaissance only a little more (and, yes, I booked into the cheapie) and decided to go for it. Maybe I should try a similar line when I register. ;) I was upgraded to one of their best rooms at the Northern last year. Have no idea why.

Delayed Eurostar? Crickey!

Would love to stay at the Renaissance but way above my budget. How great that you scored the upgrade!

What a lovely start to your trip! I might have been tempted to spend the entire afternoon & evening luxuriating in that gorgeous suite!

Looking forward to more!

You are sooooo lucky. Keep your TR coming.
SS

The hotel sounds amazing - I've drooled over their website many times, the bathrooms in particular.

Big Eurostar fan too - all the best trips start with it.

Following along....

Yo... Janis...as you may recall, I've been waiting for this report, most definitely for the SE Belguium WW II portions about your dad. Sorry to hear that he passed on (as well as your mom)...I could not recall whether you had stated that in your earlier posts about Belgium.

Your auspicious (ultra-luxurious) beginning is a winner...nothing like positive surprises at the beginning of a trip to set the stage!

I have the good fortune to have four 24th Division, 19th Infantry, buddies still alive and kicking, in our late 80's. We constantly share, to keep memories and documents alive. One in Hawaii (orginally Boston), one in Michigan. one in South Carolina, another in Florida and yours truly in So. California. We've been busily scanning very old pics and getting some hearty reminiscent laughs out of it. Gawd we were young, thin and sassy!

Keep it coming, Janis...at ease.
Stu Tower

Janis, my father also fought in the Battle of the Bulge. Luckily we have his daily letters written during the war plus his division's "yearbook." I have visited many of the sites where he fought but not the Ardennes so am really looking forward to your report. Thanks.

My father died the year after yours, a little younger and spent the war building the landing crafts for Normandy.

Glad the shmaltz worked, the rest should be fun

Woohoo, janisj - great beginning! You must be living right. :)

Very much looking forward to more.

I am following this also, great start and looking forward to more.

I was upgraded like that once so I know the feeling :)

When I was working as management consultant in New York, back in my youth, sometimes a client emergency required me to work so late that I couldn't make the last train home. On those occasions, the company always booked me a single room at the Waldorf Astoria. The single rooms were cheap and dreary, obviously intended for the servants back when the hotel was built. However, I soon learned that the later I arrived, the more likely the single rooms would be all taken (because they were so cheap) and I would get upgraded, often to a suite. One of these suites was so enormous that I had trouble finding the bathroom. I never saw a butler, though. Maybe they were off duty at that time of night!

I always took my time getting back to the office in the morning.

Thanks everybody. Will try to finish this up in a few entries over the next couple of days (I compose, check spelling, etc. as I'm posting so it takes a while) . . . but I do have a few things I have to do today and I <i>do</i> have to help the Warriors beat the Rockets tonight so it may take til the weekend.

historytraveler: Fingers crossed they have the same overbooking <i>problem</i> when you are there. Even one of the Junior suites would have been wonderful -- but this was a suite suite -- real honest-to-goodness suite.

April 21/22: Delayed Eurostar, cute hotel in Brugge, fabulous beer, trapped in the city an extra night and having to find someplace to stay

My Eurostar was scheduled to leave @ 0855 and it did and made good time . . . all the way to <i><u>Ebbsfleet</u></i> (For those who don't know, Ebbsfleet is about 20 miles east of St Pancras)

Nice Gallic voice comes on the PA announcing only one tunnel in use so we will have to sit here 15 mins. Then about 25 mins later he comes back on and tells us we'll be on our way in about 50 minutes. THEN a couple of additional announcements later (each one extending the time we'll be just outside beautiful Ebbsfleet International) he comes on and says there is an "Unusual Noise" is coming from carriage 4 and engineering staff must check it out. Then yet another announcement the the driver must perform safety checks. At 12 noon we we finally feel the engines starting up. And all this time obviously no Eurostars were leaving from St Pancras behind us and only one had passed us coming the other way towards London. 3/4 of the passengers in my carriage were business travelers day tripping to Brussels for business meetings . . . and they are all missing them. We enter the tunnel exactly one hour (continental time) AFTER our scheduled arrival time in Brussels.

(Re the delay and compensation: There are three levels of compensation for Eurostar delays: 1 hr - 119 mins a 25% refund; 120-299 mins - 50%; 300+ mins 100% refund. My train was delayed 179 minutes. The next day I sent an e-mail asking if/how if I could claim compensation and got a reply right away -- the gist of which said I needed: the PNR booking reference, scanned receipts and/or tickets, and UK or Eurozone bank account details. And If I don’t have a European bank account, a PayPal email address. Alternatively they can credit the funds to my credit card, but they need a telephone number contact me, as they won't credit an account w/o speaking to the customer. I wrote back saying I was traveling for 2 weeks and don't have a mobile w/ me, gave them my home phone number and asked them to phone me on or after my return on May 4. Thought that was the end of things -- but 5 days later I get an e-mail including "The partial refund we can offer you would be 50% of the ticket cost. In your case, this would come to $82.50. I have refunded this amount to the card you used for payment and the money should show in your account within the next 5 to 7 working days.". . . and before I got home the credit showed up on my account . . . no scanned documentation, no phone call needed. )

My Eurostar booking included onward train(s) to any station in Belgium so there was no problem re missing a particular train. I could have caught a train to Brugge just a few minutes after arriving but by the time I figured out the snazzy display kiosks I had to wait for the next train but it was only about 20 minutes.

I stayed at the Hotel Bla Bla (don't laugh - that's its name) in very central Brugge -- a very clean 2 star w/ super helpful staff. Not a darn thing wrong w/ it . . . but quite a come down from my suite at St Pancras ;) I'd be happy staying there again. €80 for 2nd floor walk up room. Was maybe a 15 minute walk from the station. A nation-wide rail strike is scheduled for tomorrow and I'm only booked in for one night. They are totally booked up tomorrow night but the manager and I decide the best course it to wait til morning to see if there are any cancellations - due to folks not being able to get TO Brugge. Since I didn't know where I'd be tomorrow or if I'd be sleeping on a park bench, I didn't unpack.

Spent what was left of the day just wandering around Brugge soaking up the atmosphere and went to a beer bar the hotel recommended - Brugs Beertje just a few blocks away. They have 400+ different beers. Every type of beer has its own shape/type of glass. It was literally a forest of beer glasses. I tried 3 and I think my very fave was a Gulden Draak -- a very smooth dark triple ale.

Had dinner at Belle Epoque - a sort French/Belgian Brasserie. I honest;y do not remember what I had -- I think it was fish but I can't find my notes. I do know it was tasty since I considered eating there again the next night but didn't.

Brugge is really lovely in the evening when there are no day trippers around.

Next morning - no luck, they had no cancellations. The manager called a couple of nearby places and both were full. He then asked if I could pay more (guessing since I had booked a 2 star I must be on a budget) -- I said budget wasn't really an issue -- I just need a bed :)

So then he called B Guest, a very posh two room B&B about 8 blocks away. They DID have a cancellation. It cost about 2.5 X more than Bla Bla but what a lovely room. It is owned by a young couple who bought the small house next to theirs and converted it to a sort of stand-alone B&B annex. Open plan chefs kitchen/sitting room/terrace on the ground floor and one guest room on each of the top two floors. Truly gourmet breakfasts.

I left my bag and explored all over Brugge for about 6 or 7 hours. During the day I walked over to the station -- it was closed due to the strike but the tourist info office was open and I wanted to ask if they thought it would be a zoo tomorrow and if I should come really early. While I was there, a 20-something backpacker was trying to get to Amsterdam for a flight that night. She spoke halting English but not French or anything else the TO staff could figure out. They tried over and over to explain there was no way she could get to A'dam since long distance buses weren't running either. "I must get to Amsterdam. My plane is at 8 tonight!!" . . . "You can't get there -- unless you take a taxi to the Netherlands" . . . "I must get to Amsterdam. My plane is at 8 tonight!!" . . . "You can't get there. No trains are running" . . . "I must get a train to Amsterdam today!!!." . . . repeat. Very sad.

Went back to the B&B in the late afternoon to rest up a bit and change into warmer clothes -- yesterday was summer and today is winter again. Then back out - took a boat ride and stopped in a very posh hotel lounge bar for drinks and snack. Then dinner at one of the indoor/outdoor places around the Market Square. It was cold but there were very good heaters and I opted to sit outside - very pretty and not too too touristy.

Back to the B&B and slept like a baby.

Next: Trains to Trois ponts, African Safari bedroom in Stavelot, and my day with Henri Mignon -- a real gem.

janisj (and others), did you know you can request your father's military records from the National Archives?

http://www.archives.gov/veterans/mil...e-records.html

http://www.archives.gov/veterans/mil...rvice-records/

Enjoying your report and following along!

Jean, thanks for the link. I do have my father's discharfe papwr with militaey record, bartles on it bit perhaps there is more info in those archives.
Enjoying your trip, janisj.

Left out a few of the things I really enjoyed in Brugge -- several museums, especially the Arentshuis. It is one bldg devoted to the career/art of one man - Frank Brangwyn. Talk about a Renaissance man. British but born in Brugge. Worked in oils, watercolors, murals, woodcuts, furniture, stained glass, architecture and worked w/ William Morris. Took a boat trip that was terrific and a way to see a lot of the inner city. And a couple of churches - Saint Salvator's and the Church of Our Lady.

But really -- the star of Brugge is Brugge itself. Just a lovely place to walk around w/o an agenda.

Janisj, good work on guiding your Warriors to victory last night! Looking forward to your next post on this TR.

janisj - You are absolutely correct when you say 'the star of Brugges is Brugges itself'. It's one of the most loveliest places I've been!

I was there last September when the fall colours were beginning to show in the foliage. I am wondering what the gardens were like when you were there in April. Any signs of spring?

We went to Brugge after being with you janisj. It was a holiday weekend (see my TR) and so crowded . You are right it is lovely at night and even nicer on a Monday after a long weekend .
We loved the Groeninge museum as its paintings tie in with the story of Brugge.

Hi northie. I was headed to the Groeninge when I saw a half empty tour boat about to set off and did that instead -- so didn't make it there.

Hope to get the next installment, maybe 2, up later tonight . . .

I am so enjoying your report and am tickled for you regarding your hotel upgrade in London. How fun!

I’ve been looking forward to your report. I have been thinking about a similar trip so the more details, the better!

<B>April 23/24. Trains to Trois ponts, African Safari bedroom in Stavelot, and my day with Henri Mignon -- a real gem.</B>

Overnight I started to feel ill -- a sinus infection. Nothing that would stop me but enough to feel like crap. Breakfast was lovely -- but I couldn't really taste much w/ all the congestion/sore throat. Luckily I accidentally had some antibiotics w/ me (They were left over from a horrible sinus infection I had in December. The doc switched me over to a stronger antibiotic halfway through the series so I had half bottle left. Tossed it in my carry on by mistake. Thank heavens -- between the antibiotic and some OTC things I picked up in Malmedy I kicked it in about 4 days)

Could have walk to the station in about 10 minutes, but because it was cool and a little drippy (and did I say I felt like crap) I had them call me a cab. I expected a zoo at the station because of yesterday's strike but it was easy as pie. There were posters up and announcement that tickets for yesterday's trains would be good today.

I was traveling from Brugge w/ a change in Liege to Trois Ponts and then a local bus to Stavelot. After Liege the terrain change dramatically and became very pretty -- rivers, hills, rock outcroppings -- very very rural. Apparently the ticket checker didn't get the memo that yesterday's tickets are good today. She got into a heated argument w/ a man who was traveling to (I think) Luxembourg. They argue for about 5 minutes and then she sat down across the aisle from me and made a phone call. At the next small village we stopped -- on come two policemen who proceed to join the ticket checker in arguing w/ the man who kept pleading that "They said my ticket is good today". Next town -- they took him off the train.

Got off at Trois Ponts -- and discover the station was closed several months ago and there is no info/bus schedules posted anywhere. The only other passenger getting off was a young backpacker who spoke almost no English and like me had no idea where/what to do. I walked around the front of the station and there were a couple of small buses -- but no drivers. About 10 minutes later they came appeared from I know not where.

(one thing the bartender at the Grand Californian - the one w/ family near here - told me is that in the far eastern corner of Belgium, English is not nearly as widely spoken as in the rest of the country. And boy, was he right! Hard to quantify but I ran into relatively few people spoke much/any English at all. One gets lazy/used to being able to communicate just about everywhere - but not so easy in rural eastern Belgium.)

The bus driver did speak a little English and he showed me where to get off in Stavelot. It was a very short walk down a steep hill to my hotel for the next <strike>three</strike> two nights Hotel Dufrays -- a really neat old bldg w/ theme rooms. Art Deco, Chinese, etc. . . . and mine -- the African room - Four poster w/ mosquito netting, balcony, campaign chairs, 'jungle foliage', and a massive bathroom. There is a large garden at the back and the hotel is grand -- in a sort of rakish/louche sort of way. 'Shabby Chic' doesn't quite do it justice.

http://www.bbb-dufays.be/home/home.php

I unpacked and sat out in the garden for a while - gorgeous afternoon - and had tea and cookies. Then I walked doooooown to the town center (Stavelot is built on a pretty steep hill) and explored the surprisingly large Abbey museum. Lots of interesting exhibits including a large lower level filled w/ historic race cars/bikes that had raced at Spa, an extensive temporary exhibit re Anne Frank, modern art, and historic displays about the Malmedy/Stavelot area. In the grounds I saw the first few of the MANY memorials I'd see later dedicated to allied soldiers and civilian victims of the Battle of the Ardennes. Had a beer in the museum cafe and walked upppppp hill back to the hotel. I wasn't feeling great but did need to eat . . . so the guys put together a plate of cheeses/fruit/bread and the was my dinner sitting on my balcony.

Next morning - nice buffet breakfast and at 9:30 Henri arrived to whisk me off on a remarkable day. From 9:30 til nearly 6PM we drove over hill and dale and stopped at many battle locations and memorials. Saw a King Tiger Tank. The really moving memorials to the Malmedy Massacre. Saw the remains of the fox holes where Lyle Bouck and his platoon held off an entire battalion at the very beginning of the German offensive delaying the 6th Panzer army's offensive -- which in the end probably allowed the Allies to prevail. All survivors of the platoon were eventually captured and survived the war in German prisoner camps.

A remarkable thing happened here -- we drove off the road on to a farm track where we could look down on the junction and up to the woods where the platoon had been. There was another car there and a man was taking photos . . . It was a neighbor of the late John Eisenhower. (He died just 18 months ago). Eisenhower wrote The Bitter Woods -- a very good account of the Battle of the Bulge - and this friend/neighbor was following in the footsteps of the stories in the book.

We also went a short distance into Germany and walked among the tank defenses on the Siegfried Line -- those are going to stand as long as Stonehenge!

And finally we drove along the Elsenborn Ridge and into the twin village of R went to the villages of Rocherath-Krinkelt. During the day we'd seen many (MANY) memorials various to Engineers, Infantry, Airborne Divisions/battalions/units and here in Krinkelt was this park w/ a large, beautiful monument to my dad's unit -- the Second Division 38th Field Artillery. And then . . . we drove to the edge of the village and to the ACTUAL FARM where my dad's platoon was for 4 days! It is still a farm though the house and barns/out buildings are new since the original farmhouse was destroyed during the fighting.

All day long Henri had shared both details of various skirmishes/battles and what it was like living in the middle of the hell of war. An amazing day I'll never forget.

<B>next: Amsterdam - Ann Frank, Late Rembtandt, Keukenhof and King's Day</B>

__________________________________________________ __________

Here are the Brugge hotels:
http://www.hotelblabla.com/eng_index.html
http://www.bguest.be/en/home-b-guest...t-brugge-1.htm

(for some reason I'm unable to preview . . . so fingers crossed :)

The links worked - janisj
The places you stayed in Bruges look great . We were very disappointed in our choice there - Martin's Bruge - very large and impersonal although central - then aren't most things in Bruges

<B>April 25-27. Amsterdam - Ann Frank, Late Rembtandt, Keukenhof and King's Day</B>

<B>Saturday</B>:The night before I tried to book my ticket through to Amsterdam on line but couldn't. Neither Ad (one of the owners) nor I could figure it out, but apparently one can only book to other Belgian stations from Trois Ponts. Because the station is unstaffed and I wasn't sure if the machine would take my US non-chip/PIN cc, Ad offered to drive me over and use his card if necessary. When we got there . . . not to worry -- the fare to Liege was only a little over €2 -- pocket change :)

So we said out good bye's and I waited for the train in the little shelter next to the tracks. Got to Liege and dashed to the ticket office where there was quite a queue for international destinations. By the time I got to the agent I had 2 minutes to catch a train via Maastricht w/ no changes - or nearly an hour to catch one w/ 2 changes in Leuven and Antwerp. Ran like Hell and made the Maastricht train (traveling light really helps).

I arrive at Amsterdam and I know it is walkable to my hotel -- a long walk but certainly doable. But the station (and the city for that matter) is an absolute ZOO!. This is the Saturday afternoon before the Kings Day holiday Monday and it is unbelievable how crowded things are. So I took a cab - glad I did but the trip was very E ticket/Mr Toad's Wild Ride-ish (Disney reference). :) Cutting through massive crowds of pedestrians w/ death wishes stepping in front w/o looking, and driving on the tram tracks.

Stayed at Hotel V Nesplein http://hotelvnesplein.nl

Loved this place! Not on a canal but right in the center of things close to Dam Square, close (enough) to the station, walking distance to Anne Frank's house, the Rijksmuseum/Van Gogh and everyplace I went -- in fact I never rode a tram once in 3 days. My room was very large and the lobby restaurant and bar were terrific. Had dinner there Sunday night and ended each evening in the couches/library at the end of the bar. Just a very comfortable place to stay.

After unpacking I went to the front desk and asked about recommendations for dinner (the hotel restaurant was fully booked). They rang up Brasserie Flo and they had one opening If I could be there by 6:15 . . . so that's where I went. Very nice room and really good food. Had an Asparagus soup starter, lamb w/ a turnip/potato mash, and a cheese board for dessert. http://www.floamsterdam.nl/en/

It was a lovely evening and I walked around for a couple of hours includig riding on some of the carnival rides set up in Dam Square. Wandered through the Red Light District and to the station to check on travel to Keukenhof on Monday. (But because of the crazy CRAZY crowds in town - I ended up booking an all day tour that included Haarlem, bulb fields and four hours in the Gardens. Just decided it would be easier.) Back to the hotel and had an Irish Coffee in the lounge. Took a bubble bath in the second longest tube I've ever seen in a hotel room (after the one at the St Pancras). Slept like a baby.


<B>Sunday</B>: Today I have an11AM ticket for Anne Frank's House and a 3PM booking for the Late Rembrandt exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. It is a little drippy but not really raining and warm enough. I walk around for maybe 90 minutes meandering in the general direction of the AF house. Stopped in a small bar/cafe and had OJ and a croissant and then a pot of tea. Had nice conversations w/ the bartender, and w/ a young couple from Brazil sitting at the next table. They left and apparently the bar cat -- an enormous calico w/ the prettiest coat -- had been annoyed that they were sitting at <I>her</i> table. She flounced up on to the bench next to me and proceeded to settle in w/ her head in my lap and purred like an old engine and fell asleep. :) (Why do they serve hot tea in glasses instead of cups w/ handles? Too HOT to hold)

Note to anyone wanting to visit the Anne Frank House . . . absolutely 100% <B><u>Pre book your tickets on line </B></u>!! I got to the house about 10:45 - you are instructed to go to the side door at the appointed time . . . and while walking around to the entrance passed and ENORMOUS line of those queueing w/o tickets. The line circled the entire block and then some. I rang the bell and asked if I could enter a bit early or should I wait outside - they asked my name and released the door and said I could visit the cafe upstairs or the gift shop and come back to the lobby at 11.

What can I say?? Just very moving. They only allow a few from the general admission queue to enter at a time so once you are inside, the house is never overly crowded. It is amazing the effect the displays and being in the actual rooms has on visitors. Even the few small children were really quiet and respectful. I had first read the Diary as a young girl and it really affected me - but I could never get my mind around the physical lay out or the actual space or how they could stay undiscovered for so long Being there clears everything up and shows it was even more arduous than I imagined while reading the diary. The rooms are empty of furniture -- at Otto Frank's insistence. There are lots of family photos I had not seen before.

After about 90 minutes in the house I walked around, along several canals towards the Rijksmuseum/Museumplein. I wanted to have a light lunch but the museum was absolutely mobbed and the cafe totally booked up. So I ended up at one of the food kiosks in the park and had a really terrific sandwich and coffee.

Wandered around the Rijksmusem for maybe 45 minutes before my ticket time. An absolute mob scene. Once I entered the exhibition it was no better -- just wall to wall people. I <i>think</i> the exhibition was exceptional . . . but couldn't really see that much of it >) I worked my way through and as I neared the end saw the the initial rooms were almost empty so I went back around through the first 5 or 6 rooms and ACTUALLY could see most of the displays . . . His late self portraits are amazing -- you sense you are looking at a gentle soul.

After pulling myself away I spent another maybe 45 minutes in the museum. Found the gallery w/ the Night Watch/etc and it was unbelievable. Those of you who've seen the mob scene in front of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre . . . well multiply that by a 100X -- this massive room, lined by these massive paintings . . . and every square inch is filled w/ people -- the vast majority of whom are holding their phone high over their heads just trying to get a mere glimpse of the painting. And those who aren't holding the phones on high . . are carrying their young children (some holding phones) on their shoulders.

Worked my way back to the hotel - had an 8PM dinner reservation there -- had sea bass and not sure what else. Tomorrow is Kings Day and when I went up to the room, turn down service had been done and there were two really cute crowns on the pillows - maybe I'll wear one when I go out tomorrow after getting back from the tour.

<B>Next: Monday -- Kings Day in Haarlem, visit to a bulb farm, and Keukenhoff - and <strike>big</strike> huge crowds in Amsterdam.

Enjoying your report and yes, "Way to go Warriors". I was in Amsterdam at the same time as you - 2 years ago - and could not believe the crowds. Plus both the Degas and Rijks had just reopen the week before - just went with the flow and then on Tuesday, the day to leave, we were a bit taken back seeing just how normal Amsterdam can be. Going again in early November and will pre-book The Anne Frank House.

Enjoying your report. I also love Bruges and Amsterdam and Haarlem.

janisj, thanks so much for sharing your journey. Looking forward to more.

I always remember The Night watch - thankfully it was before mobile phones had to be used for every occasion . Sometimes I wonder why people go to concerts, galleries and even plays if all they want to do is record /photo everything . What's a brain for?
janisj - just today I saw Anthony Beevors book "Hitlers last stand - the battle of Ardennes - " - not sure if that is where your father was but might be relevant

Lovely, janisj. Love your descriptions of the mad crowds in Amsterdam. I can only imagine how it must have felt to be the exact place your father was during the war. Thank you so much for sharing.

<B>April 27: Monday -- Kings Day in Haarlem, visit to a bulb farm, and Keukenhoff - and big huge crowds in Amsterdam.</B>

I had originally planned on missing Kings Day (I thought it was April 30 and by then I'll be in London) but a few weeks before my trip learned I was not only in Amsterdam on Kings Day -- that was the only day I had free for Keukenhof which was one of the main reasons for being there in April.

I was just going to head to the Gardens on my own via tram/train/bus but everyone said the city would be a zoo, that the trams and some trains would not run and I wasn't sure how the holiday would affect crowds at Keukenhof.

So while talking to the hotel desk staff asking about transport options and she suggested I take a tour. I didn't think that was a good idea -- huge coach, a couple of hours in the gardens, and the obligatory visit to a bulb farm. But one looked good (much more expensive @£95 but ticked most of the boxes). A 9-hour tour, small group -15 max (we had 12), pick up point walking distance from the hotel so trams wouldn't be a problem, a visit to Haarlem, the bulb farm, and 4 full hours in the Gardens. So I booked it.

Had a great day - and the gorgeous weather didn't hurt. But got off to a rocky start. The <i>normal</i> pick up point is walking distance from the hotel on Damrak. But big problem -- the whole city center was shut down and coaches could not get there. So after we met up at the ticket office our guide says we have to walk a short way to get beyond the closed area . . . and we walked more than a mile out past the cruise terminal.

It was a full size coach so we had lots of room to spread out and both the guide and driver were super. First stop was Haarlem where we took a walking tour. I loved it -- they were celebrating how I'd guess Queens/Kings days were celebrated years ago. Very family-friendly w/ children setting up sort of mini car boot sales and selling drinks, busking, a marching band, a sing along in the cathedral. One little girl maybe 8 yo was playing her violin and her little sister (like 4yo) was passing the hat. Another little boy was doing a Michael Jackson impersonation dancing to a boom box of the Thriller album :) When I go back to the NL sometime I think I may stay a couple of days in Haarlem.

From there we headed across mile and miles of flower fields -- almost electric colors. We stopped at a farm and I assumed there would be a hard sell. But it was great. We could walk through the fields and there was a film in the barn/visitors center/cafe about flower production. Then the owner gave us a talk about hybridizing/etc. he explained that this year was pretty unusual and we are lucky tot be visiting now. Normally the spring bulbs are sequential - the early bulbs/crocus/anemone/hyacinths, then the daffodils, and finally tulips/allium/etc. But this year early spring was very cold so most bulbs were pushed back and right now ALL are blooming at once. It was beautiful w/ the grape hyacinth and daffy's and tulips blooming together. They didn't try to sell us anything - just gave us brochures to take home. A very pleasant stop.

Then on to Keukenhof. The tour description said a picnic lunch was included but before we left the coach they gave us each €15 vouchers to use in any restaurant in the gardens which was great. We started out on what the guide said would be a short/get acquainted with the gardens walking tour . . . but after about 15 minutes I just wanted to get off and explore on my own. So I left the group and spent the next 3.5 hours in an absolute fairy land. As the bulb farmer had said EVERYTHING was in bloom together. It was really floral overload. The most beautiful planting combos and color combinations.

And the glass houses were sort of Chelsea-esque without the MASSIVE crowds. Yes, there were a lot of people in the Gardens -- but not too many/too crowded - maybe most everyone was getting smashed in Amsterdam >) One display in a glasshouse was small hydrangeas one plant per pot/one bloom per plant . . . the <i>plants</i> were small but the individual blooms were ENORMOUS -- like larger than basketballs.

The flower beds had every color combination imaginable and I had never before seen some of the tulip forms. One could (literally) take 1000 photos -- but I didn't -- only about 150.

Had a fish dish and glass of wine and shared a table w/ a really interesting couple from Brussels and we talked for maybe 45 minutes. Then back out into the gardens for another 90 minutes before heading back to the coach. We were not rushed at all and it was a decent amount of time - a full day would have been good but 4+ hours was fine.

And when we boarded the bus -- they brought out cheeses/crackers/cans of Heineken :) Fun drive back to A'dam . . . Party bus ;)

We had to park in the same area so another long walk back to the city center. This time though there were big crowds everywhere. Stalls selling all sorts of funny hats and t-shirts, food and drinks, music . . . but even though it was only a little after 6 PM some stalls were already closing down and people were streaming towards the station. The city was still crowded but you could tell things were slowing down. I had a sort of sausage roll and fries and a beer and made then went back to Dam Square to ride the Ferris wheel again then my way back to the hotel about 7:30. Partially packed and then went down to the lobby bar for a nightcap. It is supposed to be rainy tomorrow - and heck - I have some € left so I decided tomorrow morning I'll take a taxi to the airport for my flight to Gatwick and the London part of my adventure.

<B>Next: Not one but <u>two</u> GTGs, Sargent, McQueen, and Champagne at the Palace . . .

I love your description of the tulip field, electric. It is a travel highlight of mine too.

Miles and miles of flowers. What a great way to spend a day and to have them blooming at the same time. I am really enjoying your report.

Oh, that sounds heavenly!

Fantastic report Janisj. Following along with interest. Looking forward to the next installments.

We loved the Renaissance Hotel at Chancery Court a few years back and were very happy to stay on points. Renaissance since sold Chancery Court to concentrate on their new acquisition by Kings Cross. You were very lucky to get upgraded as you were! Wonder what the nightly rate is for that kind of room?

Love your report...been to Amsterdam several times and--unfortunately--have never been to Keukenhof.

(Sigh)...maybe next time.

SS

Thanks everyone. Haven't given up on the TR . . . sat down to finish it last night and lost internet connection for nearly 3 hours :(

Will try to finish it after the NBA game tonight.