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eks - we had a magnificent meal in Otranto at Acmet Pascia, overlooking the harbour, but it looks like it too is closed on Mondays :(
Don't miss the Tree of Life mosaic in the Otranto cathedral - stunning http://faculty.ed.umuc.edu/~jmatthew/naples/Otranto.htm |
ek, your link doesn't unfortunately work for me. :(
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franco - my link?
Here's a similar one (better actually!) http://www.paradoxplace.com/Perspect...to/Otranto.htm |
No, Elizabeth, ek's link - but thank you nonetheless for the pictures of that beautiful cathedral.
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bookmarking for our trip to Puglia in 2.5 weeks
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Franco: The link is to an article from the 3/30/08 NY Times titled, "Just Grate," about using cheese with seafood in Italian cooking. But why it does not work for you, I am not sure......could you google that title and see if you can find another link?
Tegdale: I just returned and let me tell you: You are in for a treat! I adored Puglia! Let me know if I can help with any last-minute questions. |
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Thank you, ek, this link worked for me. I'm glad your holiday was obviously a success! As far as Trachtenberg, this is funny reading stuff, but he doesn't seem informed enough to really solve the question... for example, pasta con le sarde may be served at Gusto, but has nothing to do with that place - it's a Sicilian standard, and who dares preparing it with fennel bulbs and/or fennel seeds "shall be sent to the firing squad with Cavaradossi" (as the great Franco Bonisolli put it when giving a seafood pasta recipe to a - very nice - Metropolitan Opera Cookbook, thus warning everybody NOT to add grated cheese or meatballs to his delicious mussels-and-clams sauce). Pasta con le sarde is exclusively being prepared with fennel greens, and more precisely, exclusively with the greens of wild fennel, which is very common in Italy and whose flavour is markedly distinct from the fennel vegetable (or its greens). And as far as shrimp sauce with parmesan, Trachtenberg is definitely overstating his case. On the other hand, yes, I can testify that the combination of (not lobster but) sardines and pecorino di fossa is working excellently, or that ground veal, ground mussels and grated parmigiano reggiano amount to a subtle, delicious meatloaf (traditional recipe from Le Marche).
But I hope you will teach us about Puglia food now!! |
I would highly suggest visiting Alberobello, but staying elsewhere. I would definitely NOT suggest staying there for 4 nights. It's a very interesting town--hauntingly beautiful, too. But it is very geared toward tourism, and has lost the rural charm of neighboring towns. Puglia is easy to do by car, and you can get around quite easily from almost any base.
I'm not from Puglia, of course, but I've been there several times. Towns that I found beautiful and that would make for good bases, are full of charm and character include: Trani, Ostuni, Martina Franca, Cisternino, Locorotondo, Polignano a Mare. Bari, especially the old town, is beautiful and fascinating. If you want a beautiful spot to spend 4 nights, with wonderful food from their own farm, Masseria il Frantoio outside of Ostuni makes a great base. Have a nice trip! |
Bookmarking
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FFI, your advice is coming somewhat late - please note that ek said she's just BACK from Puglia.
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Yes, I guess September is over, isn't it?
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Franco (and EK) I can assure you there is someone who still wants that advice!!!!
We fly from Milan to Brindisi on Monday afternoon, October 18. We depart from Brindisi on the afternoon of Saturday, October 23. For the 5 nights of our stay, we have rented a place in Galatone, between Gallipoli and Galatine. In other words, about 20 minutes south of Lecce. I know Galatone is not the prettiest town but it is close to attractive places. We want to visit: Lecce Gallipoli, Galatina Otranto and the coast drive to S.ta Maria de Leuca, which someone called The Little Amalfi Coast We'd also like to venture into Basilicata to see Metaponto. On our departure day (and possibly in a day-trip earlier in our stay) we would visit northern Puglia -- I'd like to see the trulli, Ostuni and perhaps some other sights. I don't know how great the distances are or how much we could see in a single day.... Would someone please amplify my list and/or correct my choices above? |
Ok..first off, Ostuni is not in Northern Puglia. What time does your flight depart Brindisi? IF it depsrts early, you cann do a daytrip to the Ostuni area; be sure to see Locorotondo. Polignano a Mare isi also worth seeing, but it is a bit further up the coast.
That coastal drive IS spectacular..be sure to see Porto Badisco. You need to devote one day to Lecce. If you have time take the coast road from Otranto and stop at Torre dell Orso to see the beautiful beach there---I am talking Caribbean quality. Driving is quite easy, as the roads are well signed. I will write a report before you leave. Meanwhile, ask as many questions as you like. I fell in love with the region; you will not find more welcoming people anywhere in Italy, I don't think. Why Metaponto? (I don't know it; Matera would also be an option if you want to do a long daytrip) |
We plan to go to Puglia in 2012, so please please write a trip report Eks!!!
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Thanks. Our flight from Brindisi is around 3:30 PM so we could have 4 or 5 hours of sightseeing that day (if we make an early departure from Galatone)
Metaponto was because of the Greek ruins I saw illustrated somewhere. I'm not a serious archaeology buff but I'd like to see some ruins, esp. Greek ones. What do you recommend in Matera? Looking fwd to your trip report! |
I realize I've been magnifying all the distances in my mind because I was working with very detailed online maps on www.mappy.it.
Hence my mistaken comment about the distance to Ostuni... When I open a Michelin road map I realize these places are all quite close together. (Of course driving may be slow) A few practical questions: Are ATMs easy to find, outside major centres? What about gas stations that take cash -- I have no European bank cards, so the unmanned "24/7" stations are useless to me. I THINK I have a credit card with a chip (I'm a techno-peasant/ Luddite). If I do not, should I expect problems with using a NA Visa or Mastercard? |
From one Luddite to another: (And I will write a trip report soon!) The strange thing is that we actually did not use an ATM during the entire week. This is the first time I ever recall that happening. I took Euros with me and most places we ate, as well as hotels, took credit cards. And I did very little shopping..just a few food items. But I am almost certain that you will find plenty of ATMs, even in the towns. A plus is that restaurants are quite moderate in price.
We filled up the car at one service station and paid with a US credit card--either VISa or MC. It was a manned station and I do not think you will have trouble finding these. Our rental car took diesel. We used US credit cards everywhere with no problem. (Not sure if you are from the US or UK) By the way, the Brindisi airport is a joy--compact, gleaming new, with the rental car places just a few steps to the terminal. Also very easy to exit the airport; you will take the same highway we did. We were bound for Otranto from the airport. I did not go to Matera, deciding against subjecting my partner to the fairly long drive back and forth. I think that a town like that might deserve an overnight. But we fell so in love with Puglia that I am now reading up on that town with the hope of including it in a trip next year... There is an important archeological site near Savelletri, on the coast: http://xoomer.virgilio.it/egnazia/in...le/Page413.htm |
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BTW we found a nice apt. quite by chance: I went to the Toronto Fodors GTG last weekend, where I met kodi and Elizabeth S, fellow Canadian Fodorites. Kodi later sent me the e-address of a place in Galatina that she knows:
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p89993 It was unavailable for the period of our visit but the owners offered another apartment in nearby Galatone, which we were glad to take. Very, very reasonable off-season price and reviews are favourable: http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p444365 However, while researching, I came upon the following 2 bed 2 bath Galatina house -- a dream of elegance -- that was already booked during our period. It truly IS a keeper: http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p407601 Then I also found a B&B in Lecce that looks amazing: The Palazzo Persone'. The room shown here costs 90E/ nt in off season, 110 E in season: http://www.palazzopersone.com/camere.asp?pagina=templar |
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