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Help with Puglia Itinerary!
We are having trouble devising an itinerary once we leave Lecce. Right now our itinerary looks like this:
9/19, 20 Lecce; 9/21, 22, 23, 24 Alberobello; 9/25, 26 Gargano 9/27, 28, 29 Abruzzo (with friends) - then home. However, we think it would be a good experience to sleep in another town or two for 1 night each (9/21, 9/22) and then go to Alberobello for 2 nights ( 9/23, 9/24) to use as a base and visit surrounding towns. We are having difficulty coming up with a good itinerary to make this happen. We are interested in cooking/cheese making/food/wine making/wine/history/culture - but not swimming or beach activities. Any ideas? We would appreciate any and all advice! Thanks in advance. |
Hi,
I'm from Apulia :) I would like to help you but I don't understand what are your free days in your plan to visit other towns... 4 days in Alberobello are to much! Really! But you've to consider that near Alberobello there are some seety towns like: Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Polignano, Ostuni... For the food: in Apulia its simple to have delicious lunch and dinner ... If you have any question about my region write in append of this post ;) Vito |
2 thoughts for the extra 2 nights
Taranto would be a real change if you stay in the old town. Gioia del colle i'd stay in the agrotorismo to the South of the air base, fantastic food. The norman castle in the town centre is ok but the roman town on the hill is a good visit |
Sorry for the intrusion, but I would like to ask a question of the local person, Vito:
Vito: Can you please suggest good places to eat in agriturismi or trattorie in the Fasano area? (We are spending three nights near Fasano Savelletri next month; we are very food focused and would like tips on eating in places popular with locals). Many thanks! |
Hi,
in the Fasano's area there are a lot of "agriturismo". What do you prefer? Fish, meal? And, what is your budget? Will you have a car? Vito |
Yes, will have a car and we eat everything--I would prefer to eat fish, seafood, vegetables, pasta..want to try all the good local foods....
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Ok,
some suggestions: > Fasano: Ristorante "La Ruota" - Via Cenci, 115 - tel 080 4391598 Ristorante "Forchetta d'oro" - Contrada Ottava - tel 080 4810401 (Savelletri area) Ristorante "Da Renzina" - Piazza Roma 6 - tel 0804829075 > Cisternino: Osteria "Sant'Anna" - Via Stazione, 12 - tel 080 4447036 > Monopoli: Ristorante "Gelso Antico" - Contrada Impalata - tel 0809309916 > Ostuni: Ristorante "Acqua & Sale" - Via Stazione - tel 0831 330302 But, if you want eat like apulians and follow the "apulia way of life" I suggest you to go in Savelletri (the coast area of Fasano) and choose one of the many restaurants on the sea. This is a no-turistic area, so it's impossible to have an english conversation but only good food :D October is the perfect time to have a lunch with "ricci" (seafood) http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1205/...b6506376e0.jpg Vito |
Hi, this is very interesting info Vito as I am also in Fasano area in late october and looking for same sort of things as escrunchy is [sorry travelnaia for also slightly hi jacking your thread but hopefuly this will be giving you some ideas as well] Something we would be really interested in is local funghi which we believe might be in their best season then and that this is a good year in some arts of italy due to weather conditions. Any ideas where we might be able to buy them and/or restaurants which might offer them ? We will have a car. Thanks
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Hi Loncall,
the best apulian area for eat "funghi" (mushrooms) is the Murgian area (the hills of Puglia). So, the best restaurants are located around the Murgia, in most cases in the towns list below: - Altamura - Gravina di Puglia - Cassano Murge - Grumo Appula - Noci - Gioia del Colle - Ruvo di Puglia (wonderfoul cathedral and historical centre in this town!) - Palo del Colle For eat mushrooms I use to have dinner in "Taverna il Viccio" (Palo del Colle) . Unfortunately Fasano is not close to this towns. Remember that Puglia is still an area of international tourism, due of this there might be problems with English... but apulians are polite and generous :) Another tip: mushrooms' production depends on weather conditions (rain) and in Puglia you couldn't pick mushrooms yourself cause you need a "license"! Vito |
Vito I want to thank you again for this helpful information!
If you want to talk more about food, let us know which specialties we should order in the seaside restaurants of Savelletri..... Also, do you have any tips in or near Otranto for a Monday night, when most places appear to be closed..?? (For Sunday dinner I plan to eat at an agriturismo near Uggiano la Chiesa; we will be in that area on Sunday and Monday and I am having trouble finding a place open on Monday) http://www.gattamora.it/ristorante.htm |
You're welcome ekscrunchy!
Food is my favourite topic! ^____^ In the Savelletri's restaurants you can find a lot of types of fish and seafood, cause tipically they are in business with few local fishmans. Remember that Savelletri is a tipical place fo "tipical people"... you'll find the "real apulian", so if you are looking for "business class" stay away from there :D If you want, I can reach you in Savelletri to have a lunch together, I like the "international atmosphere" :) Some tipical dishes: - spaghetti con cozze (http://www.lamianapoli.it/pasta%20co...ina%5B1%5D.jpg) - linguine con le vongole (http://zitseng.com/blog/wp-content/u...0071216457.jpg) - linguine con ricci (http://www.ricette-tipiche.com/immagini-ricette/177.gif) - tubettini con sugo di sarago (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vubT8a1yOR...di+mare000.JPG) "Ricci"(s) are good with "provolone" (cheese) and local bread... mmmhh deliciouuuuuus! The average price for person in a "fish" restaurant with 3 different dishes and local wine is 32 Euro, it depends on the fish and the type of restaurant chosen. ---- Monday and Tuesday are closing days (tipically) for restaurants. I don't remember now a good restaurant in Otranto, but I can assure you that it's difficult to eat badly in Puglia, it's not nationalism is the reality ;) Vito P.D. I'm thinking to write a blog about Puglia, what do you thing? There is a need for more information about it? |
Hello,
Just wanted to second the recommendation for ricci/sea urchins around Savelletri. We had a memorable meal by the sea at "Ricciolandia" on our last day in Puglia last year (http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...toddler.cfm?49 ) |
Oh, this is just terrific. Thank you both!
Vito: We must eat "local style!" No fancy places! No business class!! I am surprised that you eat ricci with provolone, as here in the US people think that it is a peccato (?) to eat fish/seafood with cheese in an Italian dish. Yes, we would love to read a blog about Puglia, featuring the food. And talking about places where the real Apulians eat..not the touristy places with menus in 5 languages! Your photos make me hungry. Tomorrow I will make linguine with vongole, but I know that mine will not be as good as the one in the photo! Hanl: I adored your report and it was one of the factors in deciding to take this trip. I am now off to re-read it! |
Sorry to chime in here though I don't have anything to add on Puglia, but while I, too, was surprised at the combination of ricci e provolone (my knowledge on Puglia cuisine is almost zero), I just wanted to add that the combination of seafood and cheese is less unusual than non-Italians are usually tempted to think. In the Marche for example, they combine sardines or (fresh) anchovies with parmesan all the time; or even mussels with parmesan. The problem is not to combine cheese and seafood; the problem is not to know which cheese and which seafood...
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Franco, I am glad to "see" you!
Do you remember that we discussed exactly this topic a few years back? Let me see if I can dig up the post.... |
ek, I don't, sorry... but if it's been a few years back, I didn't certainly know about that Marchigiano inclination for fish & cheese - I discovered that recently! I'm still pretty hesitant about such combinations; but I admit that I've prepared some dishes where it works absolutely wonderful. It's really all about which cheese and which seafood to combine...
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Not related to Puglia (Apulia), of course, but one of the most wonderful and memorable dishes I've ever tasted was a fish and potato combination with cheese sauce in the Azores. It was something new to me at the time, but I was quickly won over.
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this is a .... delicious discussion :D
Usually we don't use cheese with pasta w/fish, but there are excellent exceptions. Vito |
Ekscrunchy, I remembered that you were planning a trip to Puglia and am looking forward to hearing (or rather, reading) all about it!
All this talk of seafood is making me very hungry... |
eks - we had a magnificent meal in Otranto at Acmet Pascia, overlooking the harbour, but it looks like it too is closed on Mondays :(
Don't miss the Tree of Life mosaic in the Otranto cathedral - stunning http://faculty.ed.umuc.edu/~jmatthew/naples/Otranto.htm |
ek, your link doesn't unfortunately work for me. :(
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franco - my link?
Here's a similar one (better actually!) http://www.paradoxplace.com/Perspect...to/Otranto.htm |
No, Elizabeth, ek's link - but thank you nonetheless for the pictures of that beautiful cathedral.
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bookmarking for our trip to Puglia in 2.5 weeks
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Franco: The link is to an article from the 3/30/08 NY Times titled, "Just Grate," about using cheese with seafood in Italian cooking. But why it does not work for you, I am not sure......could you google that title and see if you can find another link?
Tegdale: I just returned and let me tell you: You are in for a treat! I adored Puglia! Let me know if I can help with any last-minute questions. |
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Thank you, ek, this link worked for me. I'm glad your holiday was obviously a success! As far as Trachtenberg, this is funny reading stuff, but he doesn't seem informed enough to really solve the question... for example, pasta con le sarde may be served at Gusto, but has nothing to do with that place - it's a Sicilian standard, and who dares preparing it with fennel bulbs and/or fennel seeds "shall be sent to the firing squad with Cavaradossi" (as the great Franco Bonisolli put it when giving a seafood pasta recipe to a - very nice - Metropolitan Opera Cookbook, thus warning everybody NOT to add grated cheese or meatballs to his delicious mussels-and-clams sauce). Pasta con le sarde is exclusively being prepared with fennel greens, and more precisely, exclusively with the greens of wild fennel, which is very common in Italy and whose flavour is markedly distinct from the fennel vegetable (or its greens). And as far as shrimp sauce with parmesan, Trachtenberg is definitely overstating his case. On the other hand, yes, I can testify that the combination of (not lobster but) sardines and pecorino di fossa is working excellently, or that ground veal, ground mussels and grated parmigiano reggiano amount to a subtle, delicious meatloaf (traditional recipe from Le Marche).
But I hope you will teach us about Puglia food now!! |
I would highly suggest visiting Alberobello, but staying elsewhere. I would definitely NOT suggest staying there for 4 nights. It's a very interesting town--hauntingly beautiful, too. But it is very geared toward tourism, and has lost the rural charm of neighboring towns. Puglia is easy to do by car, and you can get around quite easily from almost any base.
I'm not from Puglia, of course, but I've been there several times. Towns that I found beautiful and that would make for good bases, are full of charm and character include: Trani, Ostuni, Martina Franca, Cisternino, Locorotondo, Polignano a Mare. Bari, especially the old town, is beautiful and fascinating. If you want a beautiful spot to spend 4 nights, with wonderful food from their own farm, Masseria il Frantoio outside of Ostuni makes a great base. Have a nice trip! |
Bookmarking
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FFI, your advice is coming somewhat late - please note that ek said she's just BACK from Puglia.
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Yes, I guess September is over, isn't it?
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Franco (and EK) I can assure you there is someone who still wants that advice!!!!
We fly from Milan to Brindisi on Monday afternoon, October 18. We depart from Brindisi on the afternoon of Saturday, October 23. For the 5 nights of our stay, we have rented a place in Galatone, between Gallipoli and Galatine. In other words, about 20 minutes south of Lecce. I know Galatone is not the prettiest town but it is close to attractive places. We want to visit: Lecce Gallipoli, Galatina Otranto and the coast drive to S.ta Maria de Leuca, which someone called The Little Amalfi Coast We'd also like to venture into Basilicata to see Metaponto. On our departure day (and possibly in a day-trip earlier in our stay) we would visit northern Puglia -- I'd like to see the trulli, Ostuni and perhaps some other sights. I don't know how great the distances are or how much we could see in a single day.... Would someone please amplify my list and/or correct my choices above? |
Ok..first off, Ostuni is not in Northern Puglia. What time does your flight depart Brindisi? IF it depsrts early, you cann do a daytrip to the Ostuni area; be sure to see Locorotondo. Polignano a Mare isi also worth seeing, but it is a bit further up the coast.
That coastal drive IS spectacular..be sure to see Porto Badisco. You need to devote one day to Lecce. If you have time take the coast road from Otranto and stop at Torre dell Orso to see the beautiful beach there---I am talking Caribbean quality. Driving is quite easy, as the roads are well signed. I will write a report before you leave. Meanwhile, ask as many questions as you like. I fell in love with the region; you will not find more welcoming people anywhere in Italy, I don't think. Why Metaponto? (I don't know it; Matera would also be an option if you want to do a long daytrip) |
We plan to go to Puglia in 2012, so please please write a trip report Eks!!!
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Thanks. Our flight from Brindisi is around 3:30 PM so we could have 4 or 5 hours of sightseeing that day (if we make an early departure from Galatone)
Metaponto was because of the Greek ruins I saw illustrated somewhere. I'm not a serious archaeology buff but I'd like to see some ruins, esp. Greek ones. What do you recommend in Matera? Looking fwd to your trip report! |
I realize I've been magnifying all the distances in my mind because I was working with very detailed online maps on www.mappy.it.
Hence my mistaken comment about the distance to Ostuni... When I open a Michelin road map I realize these places are all quite close together. (Of course driving may be slow) A few practical questions: Are ATMs easy to find, outside major centres? What about gas stations that take cash -- I have no European bank cards, so the unmanned "24/7" stations are useless to me. I THINK I have a credit card with a chip (I'm a techno-peasant/ Luddite). If I do not, should I expect problems with using a NA Visa or Mastercard? |
From one Luddite to another: (And I will write a trip report soon!) The strange thing is that we actually did not use an ATM during the entire week. This is the first time I ever recall that happening. I took Euros with me and most places we ate, as well as hotels, took credit cards. And I did very little shopping..just a few food items. But I am almost certain that you will find plenty of ATMs, even in the towns. A plus is that restaurants are quite moderate in price.
We filled up the car at one service station and paid with a US credit card--either VISa or MC. It was a manned station and I do not think you will have trouble finding these. Our rental car took diesel. We used US credit cards everywhere with no problem. (Not sure if you are from the US or UK) By the way, the Brindisi airport is a joy--compact, gleaming new, with the rental car places just a few steps to the terminal. Also very easy to exit the airport; you will take the same highway we did. We were bound for Otranto from the airport. I did not go to Matera, deciding against subjecting my partner to the fairly long drive back and forth. I think that a town like that might deserve an overnight. But we fell so in love with Puglia that I am now reading up on that town with the hope of including it in a trip next year... There is an important archeological site near Savelletri, on the coast: http://xoomer.virgilio.it/egnazia/in...le/Page413.htm |
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BTW we found a nice apt. quite by chance: I went to the Toronto Fodors GTG last weekend, where I met kodi and Elizabeth S, fellow Canadian Fodorites. Kodi later sent me the e-address of a place in Galatina that she knows:
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p89993 It was unavailable for the period of our visit but the owners offered another apartment in nearby Galatone, which we were glad to take. Very, very reasonable off-season price and reviews are favourable: http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p444365 However, while researching, I came upon the following 2 bed 2 bath Galatina house -- a dream of elegance -- that was already booked during our period. It truly IS a keeper: http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p407601 Then I also found a B&B in Lecce that looks amazing: The Palazzo Persone'. The room shown here costs 90E/ nt in off season, 110 E in season: http://www.palazzopersone.com/camere.asp?pagina=templar |
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