Grindelwald v. Lauterbrunnen - and where to stay
 

Hi all. We will be in this area next July and are looking into hotels.

We are debating b/w Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. We will have a car, so transportation by train isn't an issue.

We are family of 4 and know that it isn't easy to get hotel rooms for 4.

Any suggestions?

I faced the exact same question this past summer when going to the Bernese Oberland with our two children, 9 and 4 years. I did a lot of research on Fodors and the web and am happy to pass on our experience.
After much research we opted for Wengen, just above Laterbrunnen and loved it. I would definitely give Laterbrunnen a miss. No charm, just a busy strip on the motorway to the end of the valley. This is a resort which is past its best. Also visited Murren which is charming, although more remote and quite quiet. Nice for a daytrip, as you need to go through the village on the way to Shilthorn (i.e. the Piz Gloria Restaurant from James Bond). Definitely worth a visit on a sunny day, and much cheaper than the Jungfrau trip.
Wengen is on the line up to the Jungfrau, car free and has beatiful views of waterfalls and the Jungfrau.
We stayed at the Alpenrose in a family room for four. Wonderful family run hospitality, lovely large open lounge area for relaxing after dinner or during the day. If you want a pool, the Beausite Hotel is a good option, although quite pricey. Went in to have a look and seems nice, although not as homely as the Alpenrose.
We didn't visit Grindelwald, but other visitors at the hotel went first to the Alpenrose and then took the train from Wengen down to Grindelwald for a further four days. Different walks and bigger town, although not car free and not as charming.
Lots to do in Wengen.There is an open air swimming pool, public tennis courts, lots of walks, train and cable car rides.
I know that you will love Wengen and I would encourage you to look further into that option. There is a big carpark in Laterbrunnen, across the road from the train. The train leaves several times per hour and only takes about 15 minutes to get to Wengen. The ride is very pretty and pleasant.

karens, you already have a couple of responses to your previous question on the same topic:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=35085172

yes, I know betty, but when I posted this, there was actually no Swiss responses on the other thread.

Veyrier - thanks so much for your insights. Did you have a car? I just thought with a car, Wengen would be more of a hassle? I was unaware of the carpark, so that's good to know.

I've done a lot of research overall, but little on the actual Berner Oberland area. I know I want to see the waterfalls in the L. Valley, and visit Wengen. What else di you like in this area? Did you visit Murren, and was it OK to get to to from Wengen?

Hi Karen,
We took the Golden Pass Railway trip from Geneva to Interlaken and then connected with the local train to Laterbrunnen and then just hopped across the platform to the Wengen train.
We went to the Trembelback Falls in the Laterbrunnen valley. Spectacular! Save this trip for a rainy day as you are inside caves and don't need sunshine. The falls are a 7 minute bus or car ride up the road from Laterbrunnen.
Took a day trip to Shilthorn, which was also terrific. To get there, we took the train down to Laterbrunnen and then the cablecar up to the ridge above Laterbrunnen. This connects to a little train which travels above the valley to Murren. You then walk thru Murren to another cable car which takes you up to 10,000 feet. We had lunch in the restaurant while revolves and took in the spectacular views of the Jungrau, EIger mountains, and could also see all the way to Interlaken. We had a walk around Murren on the way down. Quaint village, but quite quiet for a family, although there was a playpark and a sports complex.
We also took the cablecar from Wengen up to Manlichen to do the Kleinschigen walk. We took a picnic and stopped halfway. At the other end we took the train back down to Wengen. Even our 4 year old did this walk!
You can also travel up to the Jungfrau in about 1.5 hours, but as we had done Shilthorn, we plan to save that trip for our next visit.
We also enjoyed an easy and beautiful walk to Marys Cafe and onward to the end of the ridge. I've not seen it mentioned on Fodors, but it was really beautiful and easy for the children. There is a paved path most of the way, past waterfalls and traditional Swiss houses , on the way out of Wengen. As you come around a bend, the Jungfrau hits you in the face! Breathtaking on a sunny day and a really easy walk, about an hour. We stopped for delicious homemade crumble and cake at Mary's Cafe, en route.
The children played tennis and mini/golf. You can also rent bikes and drive down the path from Manlichen to Grindelwald, but our youngest isn't ready for this thrill yet!
We spent four nights in Wengen with the VonAllmens, who run a wonderful family hotel. Margaret, Peter's wife, is Scottish and came to Wengen for a summer job and never went back. There eldest daughter also works in the Hotel. They are all so helpful and full of ideas and info. to fill your stay.
Gimmelwald is meant to be another unspoilt village, but didn't have enough time to get there.
Interlaken is also within easy reach, about 45 minutes from Wengen, changing trains in Laterbrunnen.
No place in the valley is very far from Wengen. The trains run very regularly, and the hotel staff will have all the timetables and info.
Happy planning!

I agree with Veyrier about that walk (I think it is the Staubach bench walk -- can't remember the exact name in Swiss). I stumbled on it taking a little stroll after dinner from the Alpenrose. Just continue past the house with the animals next door to the Alpenrose and merge into the main road.

We were also very happy with the Alpenrose and Wengen. We drove there and used the parking garage. very easy.

I think Alpenrose also has a chalet that is right next door and offers more space. not sure if it is for larger groups, though.

For anyone who stays in the Alpenrose, the south facing rooms are well worth the extra expense, as they're the ones with the view.

Hi karens,

I agree that you should stay in Wengen to get the best ambiance and views, and yes to stay at the wonderful Alpenrose Hotel. I've stayed there two times.

I wonder if you would reconsider driving -- especially since you're considering staying in a car-free town. Most of the places you'll want to get to (Muerren, Jungfraujoch, Schilthorn, etc) do not allow cars either. Your car will likely just sit in the car park accummulating parking fees and rental fees.

It's really incredibly convenient and easy to use Swiss trains. There are train stations in both Zurich and Geneva airports, so it's good right from the start. You can wheel a luggage cart all the way from baggage claim to the train track! Also, children under 16 travel for free on the trains.

If you'd like to give the trains a try, we'd be very happy to give you a hand. Anyway, you can research the train schedules and fares at the Swiss rail site,

www.rail.ch

And you can research some Passes at

www.swisstravelsystem.com

Good luck!

s

Thanks, swandav. Our itinerary is Munich-Salzburg-Fussen-Lauterbrunnen/Berner Oberland and then home through Zurich. Since we are traveling with our 2 kids, we wanted the convenience of a car, that's why we're not doing the train thing.

Hi again,

I don't understand how two kids drives you (!) to a car???

s

Bookmarking :)

I was going to post a repsonse but Veyrier said what I would have said. We stayed in Wengen with oru 2 children and loved it. It's one of those places that I like to think we'll get back to some day. We were touring Germany, Austria and Switzerland, and had a car. We left the car at the parking garage in Lauterbrunnen.
We went to Grindelwald. It's a very nice town but we preferred the no-car, no-tour bus ambience of Wengen. Lauterbrunnen is just a transportation hub at the end of the road.

I think a car gives you flexibility, even if the trains are good in Switzerland.

We did a similar trip last year to Germany and Switzerland but we stayed in Lauterbrunnen. Instead of taking the bus to Stechelberg station for the cable car to Schilthorn, we just drove. No big deal, there is a large car park. We also were able to drive around Thunersee and stop whenever we wanted for photo ops, etc.

Switzerland has wonderful transportation options and they all connect -- right on time.

How old are your 2 children? Can they carry small backpacks? I think a train is more comfortable than a car for children. More space, don't have to be strapped in, toilet at the end of the car. And the kids would probably love a train ride.

All the places you want to go are easily accessed by train. (And bus to Neuschwanstein if that's why you're going to Fussen; Swiss buses are great.)

Mimar, I think some folks are just car folks and some are train folks. We are the former, altho I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the latter. I still like being able to stop where and when I want to. My husband is really into photography so he likes being able to stop and take photos when he sees something interesting.

About the car -- have you *tried* the train? How do you know you're not a train person if you haven't tried it?

A train is very flexible, especially in Switzerland, where they run many times an hour. You can print the schedules ahead of time and get to the station just on time.

You can stop, get off, take photos, grab a bite or a cup of coffee, then jump on the next train. No getting lost, no worried about having wine with lunch, no worried about parking.

It's SO much nicer to people watch on the trains(school kids, matrons with weekly shopping, young women with babies, older couples out hiking, and young sophisticates with Gucci bags . . . ) than to be isolated inside a hermetic vehicle.

And especially in the BO, where, what, 90 percent of the tourist destinations do not allow cars?

Though I'm an American, I really really don't get this love affair with the auto.

s

Swandav, I don't either! One of the reasons I love Switzerland so much is the wonderful transport system---trains, boats, cablecars.

Karens---how old are your kids? Children 15 and under ride free on Swiss trains (with a parent).

I'd say use a car in Germany, but train (and boat, and cablecar) in Switzerland,

If you are staying in the Berner Oberland only, do not get a car. The transportation in Switzerland is outstanding and you'll be hiking and walking more than in the car.

Consider renting a holiday flat (ferienwohnung). If you're staying a week, this will definitely be the most cost effective option.

To drive a car or ride the train in Switzerland?

A train is more advantageous when:
- you're visiting the main sites only
- are afraid of driving on our tight roads
- are travelling on a budget
- you get car sick on windy roads
- everyone wants to see the sights (and not just the driver)

A car is more advantageous when:
- you're visiting people living in small towns or in the country
- you're visiting small towns and don't have much time
- you want to drive over the passes
- you're changing hotels almost daily and have lots of luggage

Hopefully others can add to this list.

Hi schuler,

In this rare case, I disagree with your post. I almost always visit small villages and towns (Villeneuve, Morges, Kuesnacht, Yvoire in France, Weggis, Brig, Chateau d'Oex, Saanen, Zweisimmen, Zuoz, Guarda . . .) and think they are wonderfully connected by train, bus, or ferry. That's the beauty of the Swiss system -- it goes everywhere!

s

Karens:

I think the reasons you stated for using a car make great sense, and we LOVE European train travel.

And no-one's mentioned the COST FACTOR: we're planning a trip similar to yours (Mosel/Rhine, France to Lyon, back through Switzerland), and I'm finding the car, even including gas, etc. to be about half the price of the train travel, and that's just for two people.

Besides, for a photographer, being able to get off at the next train stop won't help when there's no simple way to get back to the point he saw the shot he wants.

You'll have a great time whatever transport you use.

Hi Swandav,

No problem. But I'm thinking of places like Illgau, Alosen, Bennau, Oberiberg and other villages in my area. They are all accessible by bus once an hour but if you're on a tight schedule, it can be a problem.

Your advice on this board is invaluable and I'm convinced you know more about Switzerland than I do. I always enjoy reading your posts.

Ah, schuler, now you've made my day! To gain your respect is a very good thing! I love reading your wonderfully detailed and intimate posts about living in your Swiss town -- the customs and habits and sights -- and most recently your posts on Christmas customs all over the country. No, you are the one who is the invaluable poster here. I hope one day to meet you and buy you a drink for thanks for all you've given us.

BTW, I'm planning to sell my condo this spring and move to Germany for good. And, hee hee hee, kiss my car goodbye!

s

Salü Swandav:

Abgemacht! Wishing you a smooth move to Germany.

Happy Halloween!

Danke! Jetzt ich lerne Deutsch. Ich moechte mit sie in Schweiz Deutsch sprechen --

s

Swandav, as I stated, my husband is very keen on photography (have you seen any of our travel albums on Webshots?), and it is important to him to be able to stop when he sees a photo op. This simply can't be done on a train, no matter how wonderful or efficient they are.

If he ever gets tired of taking his beautiful pictures, then we might give the trains a try.

Karens,
We stayed in the BO last year with two children. We also had a car (although we did use the trains within the region as well - search PRLCH and you will find my trip report). We stayed in an apartment rather than a hotel and opted for the valley rather than the car free villages. We loved the location and would do it again - see an extract of my trip report below.

Our home for the next 7 days was the delightful “Breithorn” apartment in Chalet Barli just outside Lauterbrunnen (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/ind...operty/19719_1). The English owners, Wilf and Wendy Hume are a charming couple, always ready for a chat. The apartment only had one bedroom, but a sofabed and fold down bed in the living room worked really well for us. The kitchen was compact (one person in there at a time) but functional and very well equipped – right down to the fondue set complete with burner, instructions, recipes and where to buy the ingredients in the village! The apartment is set in the Lauterbrunnen valley in a tradtional Swiss Chalet. Looking out of the side windows one looks at the towering cliffs that form the valley – a wonderful view and amazing feeling. The view from the front windows shows the snow capped mountains – perfect! People had recommended we stay in the car free villages higher up but we found the valley to be a magical place. Car parking right beside the chalet made using the car very easy too. It was an ideal base to visit the Junfrau region and we would not hesitate to stay there again! On a couple of occasions we returned from a long day sightseeing to find a bowl of freshly picked strawberries left for us by Wilf and Wendy – they grow their own and were happy to share. The girls also loved going with Wendy to feed or play with their kid goats – a real Heidi experience!

karens--Just a thought about cars in the BO. Husband and I did a car trip through Switzerland last year and stayed 3 days in Lauterbrunnen at Hotel Staubbach. It was at the end of the village with wonderful views of the valley. It was so convenient to drive up to the hotel, park for free, and unload your luggage right into the hotel. From Lauterbrunnen you can go anywhere after that. Now whether they have rooms for 4, I don't know. I know that kids have alot of stuff with them so maybe taking it on a train is not so convenient.

Hi Karens, we did BO this August with our 2 boys, 18 and 13. Drove from Bellagio to Grindelwald. It was cheaper and more comfy as a family of 4 to drive rather than train.

After much research we opted for Grindelwald and have no regrets. I would choose this village again.

Stayed at Residence Grindelwald. accomodation was 2 bedroom 2 bathroom suite , with a kitchen. Breakfast included.I have a review on Tripadvisor. Mr. Rentsch the manager and all staff were awesome. View from our balcony was of the Eiger. Just spectacular. Free parking. Walkable to train station, restaurants and supermarket, bakery nearby. Gondola to First literally around the corner. Close to Gondola to Mannlichen.

We opted for Grindelwald as we felt that if we had a rainy day it had an indoor pool and would at least offer something for the teens in addition to being able to drive to see Trummelbach Falls.

We did the walk from KS to Wengen, loved Wengen, but at night it would have been too quiet for our kids.

Lauterbrunnen is also a quaint town, nestled in a valley. I found it ok for a look see but would not opt to stay there. I felt a bit claustrophobic, just mo.

The Jungfrau was expensive , but one of those once in a lifetime experiences I would do it.

We do hope to do BO again and our choice next time would be same hotel, same town. We loved it. Wherever you stay I am sure you will have a wonderful trip.

Hi all. I have priced the Alpenrose and for our family of 4, it will be $500/night.

Another more reasonable options in Wengen anyone can recommend?

Thanks, k.

Shhhh---Karens---just for you: try the Bären. For our family of 5, it was much less expensive than the Alpenrose. They have a family room on the top (2d) floor which is great---2 separate rooms with a bathroom between. The one drawback is that neither room has a balcony, which I really enjoy. If that is important, you could ask about 2 double rooms (with balcony) on the first floor (first European style, which it the second floor as Americans designate). Or they have a separate chalet/apartment, the 'Kleiner Bär' (Little Bear). This was not available last summer due to roof repairs. It should be in 2008.

The food there is wonderful.

You could also try the Edelweiss, which is very moderately-priced and family-oriented.

Karens,

Might want to check out vacation apartments as an alternative to a hotel. See this apartment in Wengen at Interhome.com which is $837 per week.

http://www.interhome.us/ObjectDetail...e=CH3823.110.1

PS: Interhome.com has many more options in other villages; especially in Grindelwald.

We stayed in this apartment (the one bedroom) overlooking Grindelwald. If you have a car, it is ideal. They have a two bedroom which we looked at that was really nice. There's a place just down the bottom of the hill to get your provisions, fresh baked goods, etc. I highly recommend it especially since you will have a car. We spent a week there.

http://www.grindelwald.com/index-en....assification=5 ((b))

enzian- thanks so much!! I just confirmed our reservation there this morning.

BoBin and Budman - thanks also for your insights. We are not going to be in the BO for a whole week, so that's why I didn't consider an apt.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions.

I am really looking forward to our trip! (Only 6 months to go....)

If you do the math, sometimes renting an apartment for a week and only staying for 4-5 days would still be way less expensive than what the hotel charges. Just a thought. Worked for me on several occasions. ((b))

Yes, the trains are wonderful in Switzerland and fun every now and then. However: having said that...(and there ARE train people and car people),,,We think the car with a family is the ONLY way. We did it with children, and now retired we rent a car for the two of us.
YOu can stop in small villages, walk the streets with the kids, get a snack. When one arrives at a train station you have with walk, with luggage, to where you are going (or taxi), ...it's just not practical.
Yes, karens, you seem to be doing the best thing in choosing to rent a car.
Lauterbrunnen is interesting, but really a hub for getting the cog train to Wengen, the funicular to Murren etc.(the car park at the station is very convenient) You could base there and take day trips to these towns.
You'll really only be a few minutes to Interlachen if you'd want to base there. We spent a night in Grindelwald....and lovely, interesting town.
Learning that you will be going to Munich, Salzburg (LOVE IT), etc the convenience of the car will be wonderful. Sounds like you will be flying into Munich and picking up the car when you leave there to go to Salzburg. (a beautiful drive).
What ever you do, it will be a fabulous trip....(though July will be fairly crowded of course).

Hi Karens,

Lauterbrunnen is one of our favourite places in Europe. We have been there 3 times and are returning this year in June. Each time we have travelled with our two sons and we have stayed at Camping Jungfrau, a fantastic, well-equipped camping ground at the end of the village. They rent out cabins which are great for a family. Our boys will be 15 & 13 this visit. It is very easy walking distance from the campsite to the village, and the campsite has it's own mini-supermarket as well as a cafe/restaurant and bar.

We have always had a car for our European travels, however we tend not to use it when we get to Lauterbrunnen, using the trains instead.

We have visited Wengen, Grindlewald and Murren - all lovely little villages, as well as the Jungfrau and Schilthorn.

You can look up more info about Camping Jungfrau at http://www.campingjungfrau.ch/

Enjoy your stay in this beautiful region - I certainly can't wait to return this year.