Thursdaysd--you are 100% correct. I was in a hurry while typing that post and a little voice inside me was going, "But...but...Madeira and port ain't the same..." Its just that they seem like close cousins.
Mel, your photos especially in this last round, remind us of a certain Portuguese episode on the drone-imagery-and-also-tripod-footage seen on one of our TV French channels. That TV imagery amounts to a kind of Zen-travel experience and the Douro episode was recorded in your exact neighbourhood shown above. That third-last shot must've been so satisfying--you nailed the iconic 'rural vineyard'.

I am done. the cork trees and the weird insects that live on them

PS try ordering the goat-wine stew 'chanfana'

wow so beautiful buildings and the art on tiles just loved it


thanks
Craig
buzztify.com

Mel,
Loved the pictures of the Douro area, but sounds like it is an area that you wouldn't return to? We will be in Porto for 6 nights in mid May and are contemplating a day trip along the Douro on a river cruise. However not to keen on spending 4-6 hour on a boat as I think I would get bored after a few hours. Thinking of a bus ride to Amarante instead. Although not on the Douro, it is on the Tamega River, a tributary of the Douro and the town is supposed to be beautiful as opposed to some of the more visited towns along the Douro. I could be wrong, just what I have read in some journals. Would welcome any input on Amarante as opposed to the Douro villages. Thank you.

Thanks Z, but I'll have to pass on that stew.

Maribel - nice to see those vines. And yes, the pool is open, but stuck our fingers in and gasped. Must feel divine in the dead of summer.

Enjoying your experience in such a ‘different from your usual’ Mel!

great place

Mike -

Sorry, can't help with Amarante, but I completely understand your reluctance to sit on a boat all day. We felt the same, not even wanting to commit to a two hour boat ride from Pinhao, which is why we opted for a stay here instead, and then the train ride from Pinhão to Pocinho and return as an alternative. We really enjoyed it and felt it was an overlooked option by many tourists, who take the boats instead. It would also be an option from Porto, but a very long day.

A day trip to the Douro from Porto would have been too much for us, although I realize that's exactly what many tourists do.

While we've enjoyed our three nights in Pinhão, I think it will be a one off for us. Nothing really to bring us back, port soaked cake notwithstanding.

The Vintage House Hotel has been a departure for us too, as we're not usually five star types. It's been interesting, but definitely hasn't knocked our socks off.

The number of river cruise boats passing along the Douro has really surprised us. Not my mode of travel (but perhaps an option as I age), but it's been a bit of an eye opener.

Good for you for thinking outside of the box; I suspect Maribel might be able to answer your questions about Amarante.

True that Adelaidean. Bill wouldn't hear of not packing our usual hiking gear, which as gone unused as I expected it would..

Maribel, I’m enjoying the photos from the Douro and especially those of Quinta do Pego - it’ll be our “home” for 3 nights at the end of May.🥰

Mel, I’m really enjoying your take on the trip so far. It sounds like the Douro region has been pleasant, but not exciting enough. Is that the time of the year and/or staying in the town, rather than in the Douro hills?

Mel, it sounds like you have not been super-thrilled about the Douro region, and I am curious, like Progol, if this is due to the time of year or where you stayed? When is the Douro the greenest? Doesn't it tend to be chilly and rainy in the spring? If we return to Portugal, I would definitely want to include the Douro region so picking the best time of year would be important.

Same here Mel, I too am curious why the Douro valley didn’t do much for you, to me it would be one of the main attractions in Portugal. From what I’ve read most folks seem to feel the same, even other Fodorites.

As Karen says it’s said to be rainy in spring, so one would imagine everything would be green. I can understand your disappointment, I would be too.

True, it looks pretty brown, but I'm sure it's a good place to enjoy some good food and wine at a more relaxed pace. And as before, your weather looks great.
We'll be there in very early Oct. Probably not fall colors yet, but more foliage for sure. I was thinking about a 1 or 2 hrs boat trip, but now you added the train as an option...hmmm, definitely more comfortable. Looks empty, but do the windows open? Hard to tell in your photo.

For me, my enjoyment of the Douro has depended definitely on the time of year.
When we've gone in mid to late October or the very first week of November, the fall colors have been spectacular after the harvest, when the vines just explode in rusts, golds, ochres, and there's a slight chill in the air. It's even gorgeous in the rain.
The drive in Nov. from Pinhão up to Ervedosa do Douro on the south side of the river was one of the most beautiful drives I've ever taken. But I think to see the Douro in all its fall splendor, you do need a car. We spent most of our days exploring the high roads and discovering all the Miradouros. And one needs a car to reach the pretty town of Lamego, which is not on the river.

It also depends on where I stay. I love the Pégo for its spectacular river views from high above and being able to take my coffee out in the early morning to my little terrace to watch the constantly changing activity on the river and to walk around the vineyards.

I also loved the VH because of the staff (and rates are much lower in Nov). I left a little note in Portuguese for the maids every morning with a small tip, and every evening at turn down service time they would bring us a little treat--more port, chocolates, a fruit basket, cookies.
"Knock, knock"
"Yes?"
"Can we come in? We bring a gift"
They left us so many little "gifts", we couldn't keep up with them!

I have a slightly different view of a cruise on the river only because I didn't do it on one of the large, covered rabelo boats, which are those flat bottom wooden boats that were used to transport the barrels of port down river to the Gaia lodges.
We took a sailboat and a vintage schooner, and the trip was more like a "private party", the sail boat with just the 2 of us and again on the schooner with a group of 12. We did take the 2 hour cruise, but I found it relaxing with our small group rather than the typical tourist boat with loud speaker announcements in several languages. The multi day cruise down the Douro starting in Porto wouldn't be for me yet...but I may feel differently in a few more years. As Mel says, it is an eye opener to see these large cruise boats moored in a row at the Pinhão pier.

mike,
About Amarante--it's a very pretty town with a Saturday open air market and a lovely church and sits on the river. We've never spent a night there, just a stop for a few hours to sightsee and to have one of their famous pastries at the Confeitaria da Ponte, at the bridge.

When we went for a day trip in late May of last year it was cool and gray in Porto and a clear sunny day of 86°F/30°C in Pinhão. What a difference a month makes! It was pretty, but one day was enough for us.

Great pics Mel!

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Russ, your photos are just amazingly beautiful!

Another image of the Douro vineyards in November-

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Lovely pix, Russ and Maribel! And Russ, we’ll be in the Douro toward the end of May, so I’m looking forward to green views!

Pix of Amarante (from 2004):


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We spent 6 weeks driving through/around/across Portugal in September, 2015. We were in the Douro in late September - perfect weather, although the swimming pools were still cold. We stayed at Chanceleiros which was beautiful with a great staff. The food was good to excellent, depending on the night. The room was huge, with a fireplace and a little fountain outside the front door. I rearranged our itinerary just so that we could stay there, and it was worth it to us.

Russ, the Douro looks beautiful in May! Love the greenery!
Maribel, the fall colors are gorgeous, too.

Beautiful photos of Amarante, thursdaysd!

These are the boats that took us on our cruises on the Douro, but I have to add that it's a more expensive option that the usual rabelo boat cruise operated by Magnifico Douro and Companhia Turística do Douro that cost between 10-20 euros, depending on the length. It was a splurge that we enjoyed on a warm, sunny day.


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The schooner

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The sailboat