thanks for the link. Great ongoing trip report! But regarding garbage in Naples, I noticed that the writer (so far) had a driver from the airport (or station, I forget) to the hotel, then took a sightseeing tour.

For a view of the garbage that some of the residents of the area might see however, you can always refer to this youtube link, posted by a local from Naples four days ago, probably not from a tourist area...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPCXdvVpv_A

Or this one, posted a few days ago by the same person (with comments in Italian though):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ-FwlHOahQ

As a true lover of Naples and practically all things Neopolitan, I'm really dismayed at the state of affairs in Naples today. My wife grew up in Naples, and we go there every year to visit her five sisters and three brothers there. I can go to Naples and filter out the garbage and filth, and see Naples for what it really is, a place of beauty and with people that are genuinely good and kind. I have written here about my various adventures in Naples, which are unique and unforgettable. However, there is one story which really gets to my gut. If one takes a ride to the end of Via Petrarca, overlooking Mare Chiare, on one side of the drive, down the moutain, one can see a HUGE area of what was once a steel and shipbuilding complex. It must comprise of at least one hundred acres. It is now abandoned and real shabby looking. The story goes that Giovanni Agnelli (talking about big bucks here) wanted to purchase this complete area to build a sort of Disneyland. This is absolutely a perfect spot for such a place like Disney. It is right by the sea, and the view from there is gorgeous. The surrounding area is also lovely. The powers that control Naples, however, were intimidating enough to make a hard bitten multi billionaire and powerful man like Agnelli, with all his FIAT fortune, back down and succumb to the crooks that run the place.
In the early part of the twentieth century up until the early 1930's, Naples was the most glorious city in Europe. It really would not take too much to bring it back there. It makes me sick.

Waldo,
I have always admired your wonderful writing about Naples. Although I have no relatives there, I do love that city and her people very much, and am always trying to learn more.
I truly empathize with the feelings of dismay that you describe, though I'm sure they have deeper roots for you than for an outsider like me. But I know the people of Naples will get through this as they have always done, with grace and creativity beyond compare. Yes, it is shameful what the idiots who control things have allowed to happen.

BTW, I was lucky to go to the second Annual Rome Film Festival this year and saw just 2 films- both were documentaries on ToTò. The film version of "Un principe chiamato Totò" was just released. I hope you will have a chance to see it somewhere. I always think of his song "Malafemmena" as somehow being about Naples.

Toto wrote Malafemmina about the unattainable (?) love of his life, Monica Viti. The story goes that he had the hots for her something awful, but he could never get her into bed. Knowing about Monica Viti, if Toto couldn't get her into bed, he was the only one that couldn't do so. My favorite pizza place in Naples, Tutino's, has its dining room completely dedicated to Toto. My wife's family is also wild about Toto, as well as Eduardo Di Felippe, who I think was great.

Hi Waldo,
Well I never thanked you before, so I will now. I ate at Tutino's last trip, thanks to your report here!

Liliana DeCurtis came here to NY to promote her beautiful book 2 years ago, and I got to see her as she was signing my 2 copies of it. My heart was in my throat, because when she smiled her expression really mirrored her father's face! Then, in a spontaneous moment, I sent both signed copies to friends in Italy, and HAD to return to Naples to buy another one there... (silly excuse!)

I try to see his films whenever I can. So I am in complete agreement with your wife's family!

Any excuse to visit Napoli is a good one.

By the way--If you want to hear a great version of Malafemmina, listen to Renzo Arbore and L'Orchestra Italiana. They have an album called "Napoli,Punto e a Capo"
They play most of the Neopolitan songs with a great passion. The female singer on this album has the greatest voice of any female I have ever heard. Her name is Francesca Schiavo. A couple of years ago, Renzo Arbore and L'Orchestra Italiana came to Madison Square Garden in NY, and they brought down the house. I live in MD.(raised in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn), and I came all the way from MD to see Renzo. It was worth it!

The woman who inspired Totò for Malafemmina was not Monica Vitti but Elsa Martinelli.

Vincenzo

Thanks Waldo, I'll look for that album.

And thanks Vincenzo, as always, for the good information! Oh well, I don't think the prince suffered too much for lack of beautiful women in his life, though I am sure he suffered over them due to his famous jealousy!

Vincenzo- I stand corrected.