From Ile Saint-Louis
 

‎2011-‎05-‎15
Bonjour from Ile Saint-Louis, Day 1
Grateful and pity the driver who was awaiting us at CDG. The line for customs was extremely disorganized and long. The line to the ladies room was also long so I went to search for another while W collected our bags. There was not another restroom so back I trudged to the long line discovering that there were only two stalls and not the most hygienic either. So glad we are departing France from Lyon after a week in Beaune.
Our driver had a commercial parking spot so we were whisked past the seeming miles long departing vehicles much to our relief since neither of us had slept on the flight across the pond. We were to discover shortly how he earned every cent we spent on such lavishness!

Paul dropped us off at the office of our gite management and took our two large suitcases to the apartment. We met the apartment manager Christolphe and supplied our credit card to pay for the remainder of our rental and to submit a hold of $200 damages waiver. The former went through but the latter was declined on two attempts. They do not accept our other card, American Express. No matter, such things happen Christolfe said; we would attempt it again on Monday. He then walked us to our gite while disserting on the metro, batobus, monuments, etc. Little did he know that thanks to Fodorites I was well versed in the attractions and lay of the land!

Christolphe did recommend his favorite shops on Ile Saint-Louis which would be very useful. We arrived at our gite in a 17th century building as they all are on d'Ile. He opened the red door and we embarked up three flights of circular stairs wound like a corkscrew and very narrow in depth. My efforts at the gym were just rewarded! Oh he forgot to show us where to place our trash so we would follow him back down, and if you have a slight fear of height as I do that would be more daunting than any effort spent going up!

Rue la Regrattier is a very narrow cobblestone passageway. The gite faces the street and I can almost touch the window boxes filled with geraniums whose flowers are the size of a child's head, leaving me wondering if I could take a package of this potting soil through customs?

We began unpacking and setting up my netbook and W's Iphone only to discover wifi will not connect. Repeated calls to Christolphe following his admonishments each time that it would take unplugging and replugging the wifi cord at least three times left us frustrated. Finally he came over and gave us the connector to the cable internet declaring the problem resolved and that the Iphone has special settings (which we do not for one second believe) and he could not help us with that. So much for the wifi offered in the gite's brochure.

Finally we are able to set out to explore the island. First stop ladies; Diwali, where I purchased a most beautiful silk/wool hombre scarf for 69 euros. Or should I say, attempted to purchase? The credit card was declined again! You know, that special Capitol One, no transaction fee card we ordered several months ago specifically for this trip? Feeling a bit embarassed we shoved our American Express card at mademoiselle and were informed they do not accept that card. The clue should have been in the word American. Duh!
So I pulled out my precious euros and paid cash. I sure hope we don't run into problems with our ATM card!

We walked the quais both north and south gazing at Notre Dame and the footbridge to d'Ile de cite, the left bank and Hotel de Ville on the right bank. The mademoiselles were sunbathing on the lower quai. We were taking it all in! Then on to walking Rue Saint-Louis stopping to pick up items for the gite and evening meal there. Did I mention that neither of had slept in 27 hours?

Back at the gite and up those stairs W phoned Capitol One and had a lengthy and not so nice conversation with the poor woman on that end. According to her they flagged our account as a fraud because Christolphe gave the wrong three digit code from the back of the card. Can't wait to see what he has to say on Monday! Ha! So hopefully we are cleared because in all our efficiency before we left the US we decided to only bring two credit cards and our ATM card and as you've read neither of our credit cards works here! The apartment provides one half hour's worth of international calling and I'm sure we used that and more on this. Grrr

I don't know what it is about French salt but oh my we had a salami that nailed it! Some compte salers cheese that was delicious and a vegetable tartine along with the largest grapes I've ever seen. That and a 20 euro bottle of St. Emillion and we were ready for a long overdue sleep. Oh the biscuits -- how could I forget? We stopped in the candy store - sucre ?? where they were giving out samples of chocolate filled biscuits and preserved lemon peels covered in dark chocolate. So we bought biscuits but plain ones flavored with anis and citron (is that right or have I just indicated that it was flavored with gasoline?) The lemon peel treats will be another purchase another day.

I awoke several times during the night. The moonlight cast an orange/pink color rflecting off the building across the rue. I marvelled and wished I could photograph it without waking W. We had cracked open the ancient beautiful window and a neighbor who had done the same was entertaining early into the morning. Somehow the native language made this intrusion delightful rather than obnoxious.

We awoke and I made coffee while W ran out for patisserie. Oui! My new scarf made duty as a shawl on a chilly morning proving it’s worth. Oui!

We walked across Pont de Sully to Richard Lenoir market near place de Bastille. We walked one length before the crowds arrived finding everything from undergarments to skinned lapin. The plan was to buy a rotisserie chicken and believe me the smell was intoxicating but we were swayed by the portability of the cured sausages and hams at the various fromageries.

We set out for lunch and wound our way through place des vosges and on to Brasserie Royal Turenne on the rue by the same name where we had front seats al fresco. We ordered a glass of Sancerre, W displaying a marvelous recall of his high school French, and engaged in some serious people watching. When we ordered a second the waiter became animated and even brought us a bowl of delicious olives! Lunch was a bowl of soupe a l’ oignon and shared mussels in garlic and some fines herbes. Oui! Au Revoir for now!

I cannot imagine how anybody can get the 3 digit Visa/MasterCard security code wrong (or the 4 digit Amex security code wrong although that was not your problem -- they just did not accept Amex).

I love Diwali and the scarf I bought there in December! Our sales girl was from the US, studying there.

Any chance the candy store was the Cacao et Chocolat across the street from Diwali? They had these little round chocolate disks with orange peel, mango (?) and pistachios that I couldn't get enough of!! Wisely, I didn't break into them until we were back in the US or I would have gone every day to buy more!

Sorry that you got off to a rough start! I hope the saucisson and cheese made it all better. I can eat my weight in the olives there!!

Have fun!

More, please.

Oh, yes, more please! We'll be staying on the Ile St. Louis in October, so this report will be a treasure for us. Many thanks.

Waiting with baited breath to see if your ATM works!!! IT should!!!!

(Mine did NOT--quel cauchemar-- but that's another story, and i dont want to jinx you!)

thanks for the from-the-scene report!!!

I love Diwali! In addition to their great scarves, I love their bracelets. They don't have a website and wondered if they're open on Sundays. Since you posted today, I'm guessing, yes! I'll be returning to Paris in July and want to go back to there & pick up some more items. Close to Diwali is Amorino for gelato(coconut & hazelnut, yummm). Perhaps I will try Bertillon and join the debate on which is better.

I had trouble years ago with a Bank of America debit card which had a security block on it (doesn't matter that I phoned them prior to my trip). After 2 days, it was resolved. However, when you're on vacation no one wants to stress a moment over these issues.

Enjoying your report...

-Roberta

Loving your trip report - more please!

I admit my secret fear is to be in Paris with non-working credit or debit cards. And I've had the wi-fi disappointment too. But the glass of sancerre and a chair on a cafe terrace is the best way to overcome adversity : )

BTW - I don't know if you read Georges Simenon, but Inspector Maigret lives on the blvd Richard Lenoir, and he often enjoys sancerre during an investigation!

Julie
www.juliesparis.wordpress.com

We will be in Ile St. Louis in June. By chance are you staying with Guest Apartment?

I'm also anxious to hear more about your trip.

Sebina

Sebina: We are staying in a guest apartment in early October, so I hope to hear from you when you return. ours is called Marguerita, chosen for availability and (ground floor) convenience for us octogenarians! Where are you staying? Can't wait and bet you can't either!

MarySteve, I think you're in the apt we had for Christmas/New Year's Eve. Beautiful courtyard beyond an large iron green gate, stone steps showing 400 years of wear and those beautiful floor-to-ceiling views of the Seine. Christophe is a wonderful host and gave us the best rec's for dining in the neighborhood and which patisserie for our bread to the best wine shop.

I look forward to reading more and enjoy your wonderful Parisian getaway.

taconictraveler: We are staying in Marguerita in June. Contact me at [email protected] in July for our report.

MarySteveChicago: Is your apartment with Guest Apartment? How long did it take you to get through customs?

Wonderful report so far - bringing back such good memories. I just love Ile St. Louis and can't wait to hear more about your adventures.

I don't even take my AMEX to Europe anymore since it's not accepted by so many merchants. Glad you weathered the inconveniences.

Looking forward to the next installment!

Roberta- you have to try Bertillon at least once...the salted butter caramel ice cream is divine, truly.

I have had no issues with my ATM cards or other cards including Amex. We use it a lot-especially at restaurants. We do use a Visa, as well, but I haven't found that the Amex is really a problem.

Lunch outside at Brasserie de L'isle? Dinner at Le Caveau or Reine Blanche? Pylone? Cheese shop, chocolate shop, wine from Nicolas? Good memories.

Paris Walks has a nice walk of the island. Much history.

Keep posting and please do provide info on the apartment.

Sorry but your use of gite is not understandable. A gite is a country /rural property . What you have is an apartment!

Sunday night we walked a deserted I'le de Cite and were wowed by Notre Dame. Then to Berthilion for a caramel ice cream cone. Everything I've read about Berthilion is true!
Monday
Bought two carnets of tickets at the Tabac shop on the eastern end of the I'le. There was a moment of confusion when the shop keeper short changed W by 50e He apologized profusely when W politely insisted.

Boarded bus #67 near pont de Sully for the ride to Montmartre. Walked for what seemed miles and up a long hill to Sacre Cour. Beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower and the city. Many pious worshippers inside the Sacre Cour; very solemn.

Found the fabric district on our way down the eastern stairs. There were deals if one if looking for Liberty type fabrics of which the selection was huge. Found some linen tea towels for gifts. The quilt shops had some beautiful unique fabrics but I don't quilt.

A quick stop at a market for laundry soap left us puzzled by the language. Of course we were limited by a sudden unfamiliar urge at frugality not wanting to spend more than 3e. We decided on the blue liquid with a picture of folded towels on it.

Late lunch of salad with shrimp and Dorade for W and endive salad and sole meuniere for moi at Caveau de L'Isle. Delicious half bottle of Borgogne. A small intimate restaurant that I would try again.

We stopped in the supermarket on the Ile for something costing 12.5e. W paid with a 50e and was handed 7.5e in return. There was a brief discussion when suddenly 30e appeared from his hand where it appeared to have been all along. We must look like easy marks!

Tuesday – Bought a 5day pass for the batobus because it was only 7e more than a 1day pass. Boarded at Hotel de ville. Deboarded at Champs Elysees – WOW! Began strolling past the palaces; Grand and Petite until we found ourselves on the Avenue des Champs Elysees.

Macaroons! Laduree is a beautiful patisserie on Av Champs and we purchased six macaroons and I began my new collection – one of their charming vinyl bags. We headed towards the Arc de Triompe noshing on one of our delicate macaroons; mine, rose petal flavored. Yum!

We then turned left onto beautiful quiet Avenue d’lena and came upon a gaggle of well heeled men talking excitedly as they exited a door marked -- the Ministy of Finance. We giggled to ourselves wondering if they were deciding who among them would fill the newly vacated seat for the IMF!

We wound our way toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. The size of the iron lady is overwhelming. Took lots of photos which I’m sure will impress those at home. Hopped on the batobus for St. Germain-des-Pres and had delicious salads nicoise al fresco at Bar du Marche on the corner of Rue di Buci.
Our legs were giving out and it was getting quite warm as we headed home on Blvd St germain. But wait! There’s Patrick Roger the chocolatier’s shop. 6e later we were on our way. 40 tightly wound stairs after this day was too much. I needed to do a quick laundry and rest for tonight.

The machine both washes the clothes and dries them! Pretty ingenious except it’s still doing it’s thing right now some two hrs later! Oh and that soap? It is Laundry softener! W had to return to the supermarket he swore never to enter again!

Did I tell you I bought a scarf? Not only does it double as a morning jacket it covered me when I napped this afternoon and it’s going to La Regalade tonight too! Oui!

Avalon, ha! I'm sure there is much not to be understood when I attempt French. Thanks for the correction though.

Yes, with Guestapt and becoming enamoured with the charming managers. Muscari unit is quite suitable and well equipped.

The credit card is working! phew, thoght you all would have to wire $
Sebinah, customs was about an hour

does anyone know where I can buy smaller scarves or hair accoutrements (pretty hair bands or barrettes) for the little grandaughters back home?

Nice details. Looking forward to more.

In general, using big bills for small purchases is not as common in the UK and Europe as it is in some parts of the US. You may have looked like a mark or the clerk in the grocery and at the tabac may just have been discombobulated by a larger than usual denomination. It is useful to get the smallest bills your ATM will deliver or to use large bills for large purchases.

Enjoying this vicariously.

There are a couple of stores on the rue Buci that my daughter used to frequent to buy scarves and hair accessories. Can't remember the names of them, but they're just a stone's throw from where you had your salades niçoises. There's also a small shopping mall behind the Mabillon métro stop that has a store or two like that. Or any department store, really.

<i>Walked for what seemed miles and up a long hill to Sacre Cour. Beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower and the city.</i>

This is very strange. You can't see the Eiffel Tower from Sacré Coeur. Explanation?

Kerouac, i dont know about the OP, but i had a vague memory of seeing the Paris city view from Sacre Couer. Searched google image and found this(scan down for photos) --voila!:

http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/1b153/18308/

Nope, that is definitely not the view from the Sacré Coeur. It is directly in the direction of the Pompidou Center and Notre Dame, not the same direction at all.

If you want to see the Eiffel Tower, you have to go off to the extreme left (facing Sacré Coeur), and you can get a few minor views of it in the distance, but no unobstructed view.

(Of course, if you are instead talking about the view from the top of the dome, you can see the Eiffel Tower perfectly well.)

CaliNurse, I agree with you...we have a photo that I thought we took in front of Sacre Coeur (we didn't go up in the dome that day). Maybe it was just from Montmarte somewhere??? I labelled it View from Montmarte, but have always thought it was in front of SC

https://picasaweb.google.com/denisew...57798656588690

Anyway, so glad the OP went to Bertillon for that caramel ice cream!!! Heaven regardless of where that Eiffel Tower view was.

I hope the Diwali store is open on Sundays so I can get my scarves and that caramel ice cream everyone seems to love. I can't wait to try it in July!!

-Roberta

My friend framed the bag from Laduree as a reminder of the macoroons.

I have a European washer/dryer one piece in my apartment. It takes 3 hours to do a load and they still come out slightly damp. They don't have a special dryer element in them. I have gotten used to it.

Sebinah: Oh, that's good news! I'll look forward to your report. I have heard very good things about GuestApartments from friends, and on this site.
We will also be in Paris, staying at Hotel de Lutece, on the Ile for a couple of days before we join friends to train to the Dordogne for a week. Then back to paris to Marguerita.
I'll send you my email, so you can get in touch in July, and I'll put yours in my tickler file, so I won't forget!

Isn't this a good report by MarySteveChicago?

Sebinah: Oh, that's good news! I'll look forward to your report. I have heard very good things about GuestApartments from friends, and on this site.
We will also be in Paris, staying at Hotel de Lutece, on the Ile for a couple of days before we join friends to train to the Dordogne for a week. Then back to paris to Marguerita.
I'll send you my email, so you can get in touch in July, and I'll put yours in my tickler file, so I won't forget!

Isn't this a good report by MarySteveChicago?

Sebinah: I just had an email to you returned, unable to send. Is it just the timing, or is there maybe a mistake in what you posted? thanks.

I bought a beautiful scarf at Diwali on the Ile. I could have spent a lot more time (and money) there!

Roberta, it was open the day after Easter which is a holiday in France, so I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that it's also open on Sundays.

Thanks, Ellen! I think it may be open because the OP posted visiting it on her first day (which was Sunday).

La Regalade St-Honore! (and mgrs at guest apts made our reservation weeks ago-something they offer) Can't imagine a better meal for 33e each. Starters W - fresh pea soup with bits of ham, then white fish St-Pierre w/ asparagus,peas, and pea shoots follIt's a owed by a crock of rice pudding with caramel sauce. Mine - shrimps with black risotto oh wow, lamb with asparagus, peas and shoots (they must be in season here) then the most wonderful thing ever - chocolate prlaine beautifully presented. Nice wine list and we had an Alex Gambal 07 Bourgogne which thrilled us as we're going to his vineyard next week!

It's a small restaurant and we were a bit overdressed; W in a jacket and me in Traveller slacks, silk sweater and jacket.

Took the metro with the encouragement of Ellen's grandson(!) from St Paul to Louvre Rivoli. Piece of cake!

Slept in really late and had nothing for breakfast except my last macaroon, a pistachio which I savored with coffee, so brief visit via Batobus to Place de la Concorde and Jardin des Tuileries.

Shoes! Seeing lots of espadrilles and the more straps the better. If I were 20 yrs younger or pounds lighter I'd be in a pair as fast as you can say 200e! Young women in ballet flats are everywhere too. But really, seeing lots of various shoes.

My legs ache. My workout at home should have contained flights of tightly wound stairs.

yes, Diwali is open on Sunday and btw, there is one at Monmartre. All the shops were open on the Isle on Sunday and many restaurants too.

are we dissecting the distinction between Sacre Cour and Montmartre? I'm pretty sure the view of ET was on our way up to SC, off to one side if it matters. I'll upload once we're home.

are we dissecting the distinction between Sacre Cour and Montmartre? I'm pretty sure the view of ET was on our way up to SC, off to one side if it matters. I'll upload once we're home.

As a note, there is also a funicular that goes up to Sacre Coeur, and a small tram/train on wheels (Monmartrobus) that loops up from Metro station to the basilica.