French Riviera Itinerary
 

I am in the final stages of planning our first trip to the Cote D'Azure in mid June and would like feedback on our itinerary. We will only be in the area for 3.5 days due to scheduling conflicts but plan to return next year.
We are not museum types nor are we going for the beach, more into scenery, architecture, walks in old villages, and the sea. I'm looking for drives along the coast and nice places with a view for lunch or dinner. We are staying at the Marriott in Cap D'ail because we got a great rate (170 euros) for a room with breakfast, a terrace and a sea view, a must for us and we will have a car and don't mind driving.

Although I read negative comments about St Tropez, it's one place that we want to see even once, so any advice on the best way to get there would be appreciated.

Arrival Day - Arrive into Nice at 11 am check into hotel and spend the afternoon in Monaco since I read that there's not much there and can be covered in a few hours. If there's time, we'll go to Eze village and maybe dinner at the Chateau de la Chevre.

Day 2 - St Tropez: This will be a Thursday and I'm thinking that it will be less crowded than on the week end. What's the best scenic route to take? I estimate the drive is a good 1.5 to 2 hours from Cap D'ail on the highway, any idea how long it would be to drive along the coast? we're thinking of taking the ferry from St Raphael or St Maxime to St Tropez if they exist, any idea on schedules, duration or cost? Is St Tropez manageable on foot? Are there places to rent motor boats for a few hours? Is there a street or cafe that is not to be missed? How far of a drive is Le Lavandou?

We're thinking of dinner on the way back, any suggestions along the way in Frejus or St Raphael? anywhere else?

Day 3- Friday: Visit Nice: Thinking of driving down the Corniche Interieure for dramatic sea views passing by Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Villefranche. Where should we stop? how about Cap Ferrat? Where's the best place to park in Nice that's close to Vieux Nice to see the markets and the main sights? What's not to be missed? Any recommendations for a restaurant for a nice dinner in the area that has a sea view?

Day 4 - Cannes, Juan Les Pins, Antibes. Is this too much? if we had to drop one place which should it be? What's not to be missed in these towns? Recommendation for restaurants?

Any advice would be great!

Answer all your questions would take a book! But I'll address a few.

Parking for Vieux Nice is easiest at the large underground facility right at the entrance to the Cours Saléya. From there you can see the market and all the adjacent shops, cafés, and restaurants, as well as several fine churches and an old mansion. Other sights, such as the Matisse Museum, are in different parts of Nice--be sure to buy a map of Nice from the tourist office when you arrive, since finding your way around isn't all that easy once you leave the central area.

By all means stop at St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The drive (or walk) around the penisula is beautiful, and you could visit the excellent museum d'Ephrussi-Rothschild. Lunch at the port would be a good option.

The most scenic route to St-Tropez is along the coast. From St-Tropez to Le Lavandou (and Bormes-les-Mimosas, which you should see if at all possible) can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours, depending on traffic: the road is only 2 lanes. But it's a beautiful drive.

Good luck with your planning, and have a wonderful trip.

Do you have the Michelin Green Guide to the Côte d'Azur? That would give you much valuable information.

3.5 days is not that much, but you should be able to get some highlights. If you're not into museums, Monaco is probably an afternoon. See the palace, the casino, gawk at the cars and shops, and you're done.

As for Cannes, Juan-les-Pins, and Antibes, certainly drop Juan-les-Pins, which is more of a party city. I stayed in Antibes for four days, and is a great little city. There is a walled old town, some neat architecure, an impressive fort, and plenty of beaches and waterfront restaurants, although one must always be careful not to fall into a tourist trap. I had a fantastic meal at Baie Doree in Cap d'Antibes, and a mediocre one half a block away at Restaurant Keller.

Walt

Thank you both for your advice.

Underhill - I have read most of your postings on the area and you should write a book! I will get the Michelin guide but I do have detailed maps for Nice and the whole area.
I'll drop Juan Les pins based on the advice of wnissen.
Do you know of a ferry to St Tropez? this will avoid the last slow strech of driving.

I just returned from Cote D'Azur and I am still completely awed with the beauty of the area, the color of the waters, and the overall fantastic destination this was (for what is worth been to Hawaii, grew up in the Caribbean).

Some notes:

Strongly encourage you to take the coastal drive to St. Tropez from Nice approx. 2 hours. Recommend stops in Antibes (beautiful town, parking is tough), and Juan les Pins (fun town, great shopping for beach clothes--not cheap, though), great place to have a drink at a bar by the water. We did Cannes also on this day. Yes, it is a lot, but it will give you an idea of where to go back next year. :-D

In St. Tropez loved, loved, loved Tahiti Beach. I was a bit concerned with some guidebooks describing the beach as "decadent". I did not see one thing that would make me described it in that manner. Lots of families, beautiful, clean beach area. Yes, there is topless nudity, so what, IT IS the French Riviera. My favorites beaches were definitely in St. Tropez and Cannes. A word of advice, study very well a map of the St. Tropez beaches before heading out. They are not close to the city historic centre and this may throw you off. :-"

I would go to Eze and then head down on to Monaco- Montecarlo. The casino in Monte Carlo has a wonderful Maria Callas exhibit at the lobby (free, fabulous). Eze is interesting, worth it, tons of people from tour groups, cruise stops, etc... The Exotic Garden at the top is worth the 2 Euros ticket. :-X

A town that nobody mentions and I loved was La Turbie. Amazing Roman monument to Cesar Augustus, you can see from afar as you approach the town. Take the mid road to Eze and then hop on the upper level road on to La Turbie. SPECTACULAR vistas. :-O

Great restaurant in Beaulieu-sur-Mer: Le Catalan, right on the main street. Good place for lunch in Nice: Costa del Sol across from the Promenade, closer to the port side end. Great nightclub at night. :-P

If time permits, DO NOT miss Menton. Loved this wonderful town, my husband's absolute favorite stop alongside the French Riviera. :-*

Sorry--I don't know about a ferry, but I think someone posted information about that a while back; you could try a search here (or Google, too).

But re-think dropping Juan-les-Pins if you're going to have a car. You can still see the house where the 1920 ex-pats lived (the Murphys, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, et al.) and drive through areas with large homes of amazing archictecture. Just don't go there at night, when it gets very noisy.

The drive along the coast from Antibes to Cannes and points west is very pretty, as long as you avoid peak traffic hours. Antibes is lovely for strolling--but try to get there well before 9:30 a.m., when the traffic often slows to a creep. If you come into town along the coastal road from Nice it's much better, however.

As for Menton, my husband hates it with a passion because of the traffic through to Italy. But I know some people find the town delightful and hope we can too some fine day.

How do you feel about Roman ruins? Fréjus has some fine ones.

Chatters,

My husband's eyes lit up when I told him about the Maria Callas exhibit in Monte Carlo. Do you know whether it's there permanently, we hope?

The exhibit appeared to be a permanent exhibit of costumes and jewerly used by her for opera performances in Milan's La Scala and many other great opera houses around the world. Just fabulous. The exhibit is enhanced by photos and mementos from her operatic career.

I can see what you mention of traffic in Menton. Yes, it was rough, but the town more than compensates for it. Great restaurants.

Regarding Le Catalan in Chatters' post. Walk up the street a couple of blocks, turn right at the bookstore and you will see La Pignatelle, a lovely little restaurant.

Chatters, did you stay in Nice or in St. Tropez? We also looked at Marriott in Cap D'Ail but we won't have a car, so would like to stay either in Nice or in St. Tropez.

Chatters -
since you were in St Tropez and loved it, did you happen to see any boat rental places? we would like to rent one for a few hours and cruise around if that is feasible. We actually considered chartering a boat from Nice and cruising down, but the cost at 2000 euros for the day is astronomical!

Also, does anyone know if you can snorkel and see something in the area?

Yazlin, on this thread from last year, Nice to St Tropez

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34418342

Feiny says to go to St Maxime & take a ferry from there to St Tropez. Unclear to me whether the ferry allows cars.

Have a great trip.

Thank you mclaurie, the thread is a great source of information. There's no mention of parking in St Maxime close to the ferry, do you or anyone else know of any?

Are there tour companies in Nice that organize tours to St. Tropez by boat?
Seems that if we go to St. maxine it is going to be a long trip by land, and we cannot afford to charter a boat.

I'm sorry I can't help on that score but I'll warn you if you're thinking of leaving the car in St Maxime, St Tropez is quite spread out & not, IMO, really doable on foot unless you just want to stay in the harbor area. I've also been wondering about your plan to take the coast road. I've only done this trip once, mostly on the coast road and in the winter. It seemed to take forever. If you really want to go, I'd take one of the higher roads which are much faster. Hopefully someone with more experience will post back.

I've remembered at one point in time there was a ferry service to St Tropez from Nice airport discussed but not sure if it still exists. I also think there may be ferry service from Cannes to St Tropez. I would check the Nice airport website and also the tourist board.

IgorVodov -
I just found this site that has tours to St Tropez from Nice and Cannes, it's worth checking out at http://www.trans-cote-azur.com/ang/tca.html. Another site http://www.ot-saint-tropez.com/en/acc/bateaux.htm gives you boat info from other towns.

Yazlin,
Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.
Has anyone taken those tours by boat?
Do they leave you in St. Tropez harbor and let you explore the towns for a few hours? Or is it pretty much a round-trip and you have to go back immideately?

Thanks,
Igor.

The coast road is scenic but slow, nearly all the way west to Toulon. The autoroute or route nationale is quicker, but you sacrifice the view. Tough choice!

IgorVodov,
I emailed the boat tour company and got some answers. The boat arrives in St Tropez around 11:30 and lets you down into the new harbor to go around the area until 4:30 when they leave for the return trip.

Igor-- we stayed in Nice and HIGHLY recommend the Comfort Inn Hotel Vieux Port. At about 70 Euros for a spacious, clean, very comfortable double room with 2 huge beds (for European standards, you all know what I mean...). Breakfast at 7 Euros was convenient, but there are plenty of alternatives around the area. About 5 minute walk to the port where ferries to Corsica and other Mediterranean spots depart from, I LOVED the fact that the area was more the town, Old Nice, but still, walking distance to the Promenade. The hotel has underground parking (a prized commodity in the French Riviera!).

Yazlin, plenty of boat rental spots around the harbor area in St. Topez, head out towards the town centre. The most popular beaches are away from the city center, you'll need either a car or a bike to get to them.

As far as route Coastal vs highway, it is a no brainer to me; if in the French Riviera, you need to do the coastal drive at least once!! Have fun!! :-D

The coastal road to St Tropez is beautiful, but if you follow the coast all the way from Cap d'Ail it could take you half a day. I've done it from Nice, and think it took at least 3 hours. Maybe drive as far as Cannes on the motorway, then follow the coast; the road between Cannes and St Raphael is beautiful. If you want to go to the beaches in St Tropez, better take the car all the way there. If you're staying in town, I think the ferry from St Maxime would be fine (though I've never done this). It is not unusual to spend an hour on the road between St Maxime and St Tropez. If I remember correctly, market in St Trop is Tuesday and Saturday, so you should be OK for Thursday.

Day 4; I would drive to Antibes via the motorway, stop in Antibes for a few hours (park by the harbour 'Port Vauban'; go and look at the enormous yachts if that interests you; the biggest yachts are all the way at the end of the harbour), then drive through Cap d'Antibes (the lighthouse in Cap d'Antibes is a nice stop; great views)and Juan les Pins to Cannes. There is a large car park under the Palais des Festival; from there it is easy to see the old part as well as the Croisette on foot.

Thank you for your answers,
does anyone know how long a walk would be from Westminster Hotel or Boscolo Park Hotel to the port in Nice. If it is more than 5 minutes, is there a bus that connects Promenade to the port area. I assume the boat companies all depart from the same port.

The walk over to the port will take more than 5 minutes because it's not a straight line from the hotel area--the road curves around the base of the château rock.

Are there buses that run regularly from the hotel area to the port? I know that there is a bus from Airport to the hotels but I am not sure whether it continues to the port. Does anyone know?

I have to disagree with Tulips, by no means skip the coastal route Nice-Cannes, at least once. Nowhere near the three hours.

Chatters,
Since you've just returned from the Riviera, any advice on dress code? How's the weather like? We're going next week. Are shorts, T-shirts and sandals ok for the day or frowned upon? how about for the evenings? Thanks

St. Tropez is beautiful and we loved Tahiti beach (I know you're not into beaches). If you want a fantastic view, wonderful food and service, and prices to match, try La Reserve in Beaulieu. You'll need dressy clothes. Chevre'd'Or is also great. I understand the restaurant at the exclusive hotel on the main street in Nice (the name escapes me - someone must know it) is top rated. I agree with the other comments. Charles

The restaurant you're thinking of is Chanteclar. We ate there last month. It was an exceptional meal with perfect, perhaps a bit too perfect service.Dinner , wine, champagne was $310 euro. We stayed at the Boscolo Park Hotel and were extremely disappointed in our suite. Unfortunately the city was very busy or we would have moved to another hotel. It was more like a 2 star, rather than a 4 star accomodation for $325 euro a night.

Chatters; I have done this in summer, and it did take three hours to drive all along the coast from Nice to St Tropez. St Maxime/St Tropez alone took an hour.
Dress code; shorts are fine for day. I wouldn't wear shorts for dinner in the evening, but that may depend on where you dine! For the better restaurants (like La Reserve, Chantecler) wear a jacket.
There is a different atmosphere in the different cities; Cannes is more glitzy (more Versace, Cavalli) while St Tropez is more laid-back (more kaftans, hippy chic). I think St Tropez has the best shopping of all Cote d'Azur towns; lovely little streets and squares with small shops.

In Cap Ferrat I can recommend the restaurant at the Royal Riviera hotel.
In Antibes I like Les Vieux Murs, right on the city wall.
In St Tropez make reservations for lunch at the Club 55 (at Pampelonne Beach); even if you do not go to the beach. Great people watching.

Dress code at the French Riviera can be summoned up as chic beach clothes during the day, nice casual when strolling along promenade(s)heading out for dinner at night. Beach clothes such as sandals (no heels), shorts, sleeveles shirts, capri pants are STILL very much fashionable, specially the new cargo style with ties on the legs. A couple of summer sets you can interchange would be ideal. Critical however, to me is a bathing suit, tons of suntan lotion, hat and sunglasses.

WhistlerAl, we were thinking of staying at Boscolo Park Hotel. Why were you disappointed with the hotel?
Did you see any other hotels in Nice that you liked. Any opinions about Westminster hotel? I have heard some comments that it also does not live up to 4-star rating.

Hi Igor,
We had booked this suite in advance through clubhotel, because it was our 20th anniversary, and we thought we would splurge on a suite. We had been traveling throughout France for a month and had been staying in 4 star hotels all the way.
We were told that they had booked us a "beautiful suite" at a rate of $325 ( normal rate $475)We arrived late in the afternoon and didn't ask to see our room, which we always do, mainly because we had been told it was wonderful, and because at $475, how could it not be nice. The lobby of the hotel was nice, and certainly the location is great, but the suite didn't rate 2 stars. The carpet was thin, bright green, with big white spots all over it, where they had tried to clean stains. The furniture was flimsy( the cabinet holding the minibar was so wobbly ,I thought it would fall over. The bedding and towels were thin and cheap, and there were two double beds(we had asked for a king) We were told that they would change the bed while we were at dinner, but that never happened. We asked for a bucket of ice when we arrived, and that arrived 45 minutes later. Yes, I should have complained, but it was our anniversary, and I didn't feel like fighting with anyone. Also, the city was full, so we couldn't change hotels easily. So, we stayed the one night, left early, disappointed, but enjoyed the rest of our trip. It was by far the absolute worst room I have ever seen in a supposedly 4 star hotel, and I don't know that I can recommend clubhotel.com, if this the type of hotel they are affiliated with.
I did try to find other hotels the next day, but there were no rooms that were vacant to view. However, the Meridian , and Sshcroft(?) looked very good.

WhistlerAl,
Thank you very much for your detailed answer. I have looked at http://www.rivieraby.com/parknice/pages/gallery.htm page and it looks like most of the rooms have that awful green carpeting. However, two rooms look much nicer. Are those suites? If you look in the first row, they will be the last two pictures.

HI:
Just wanted to let you know that the restaurant at Chevre D'Or in Eze is very, very expensive. Eze is worth a trip. After seeing the prices at the Chevre D'Or we went elsewhere nearby to eat.
Driving to St. Tropez can be hit or miss. When we did it, the traffic came to a crawl for miles as we got closer and seemed to take forever to go the last 5 miles or so. Our friends who preceded us by 2 days had no problem. The reason... we went on a Friday. Big mistake.
It's a shame that you don't like beaches, because they are unlike anywhere I have ever been. Just having lunch and people watching at Club 55 is fabulous (reservation for beach mattress and lunch highly recommended). I agree with prior post that the shopping is great there. We are returning this summer.
Our itinerary also includes a few days in Roquebrune-Cap Martin which is east of Monaco.
I would choose Cannes over Nice for a visit. Great hotels. Just outside of Cannes is Mougins. This is a great village, lovely shops galleries and restaurants. We enjoyed it so much that we may go just for an afternoon and dinner while we are staying in St. Trop.
We like the Frommer's book and also the Michelin guide.

NYerr,
what hotels do you recommend in Cannes?

Thanks.

Igor,

Please don't give up on Nice entirely! There are many good hotels and so much to see--especially Vieux Nice. You can get a very nice, large room at the Beau Rivage on sites like allrez.com and be very close to the center of things. In fact, the Beau Rivage is not far from the Boscolo Park Plaza, which is set right behind the Jardin Prince Albert.

I heartily agree about Mougins--the old village is delightful to explore and has one of our favorite restaurants in Provence, Le Feu Follet.

We spent 5 days in Cannes while my huband was at a conference, and since I'm not much for beaches either (the sun doesn't agree with me) I ran of out things to do after two days.

NYeer, thanks for your input, it's not that we don't like beaches, on the contrary, we actually are beach people, but since we're only going to be there for 3.5 days I'd rather see and experience the Riviera than lying on a beach for a day and not seeing half the town. So your suggestion for Club 55 is duely noted, especially if we can have lunch and enjoy the beach. is it within walking distance of the harbour since we may take the ferry from St Maxime? I am also thinking that we could rent bikes/mopeds on St Trop if we have the time, any advice there?

Yazlin, the beaches are not walking distance from the harbour. You can probably rent mopeds, but I haven't got any specific info on that.

Thank you all for your help, we're off tomorrow!