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franco Apr 20th, 2006 11:53 AM

Franco's favourite ... Venetian sightseeing (plus transportation)
 
Yes, there are too many tourists in Venice. No, they won't spoil your trip to Venice – provided that you don't make them spoil it. What I mean is: short visits to Venice in high season (i.e. one or two days) will quite probably make you HATE Venice. If you haven't time for more than the most famous (and most crowded) sights, and if you go to Venice when everyone goes (Carnival, May, July, August, September, even October), there is a fair chance that you'll end up as one of those telling "it's a Disneyland for adults", or nonsense like that. Personally, if I sum up all my visits over the last 16 years, I must have spent six to eight months in Venice, and I'm still discovering new wonders every day I spend there - it's impossible to get bored in Venice, or to know all of it.
First rule: never stay less than four nights, and never stay anywhere else than in the historic center (forget about the Lido, forget about Mestre – both are ugly, and first of all, you'd fall short of one of Venice's most stunning features: the total absence of any cars, for several days…).
Second rule: try to come to the most crowded points early in the morning, or in the evening – i.e. before the crowds arrive, or after they leave. This won't be possible for the Basilica of S. Marco, which you should nevertheless visit: it's the only point where you'll necessarily cross paths with the tourist masses (unless you come, say, in November, or in early February...).
Third rule: Don't limit yourself to the so-called "must-sees", like S. Marco, Accademia, the Guggenheim Foundation, the Grand Canal, the Bridge of Sighs, the Doge's Palace, S. Maria della Salute. I'll never know who is defining "must-sees" – ok, each of those sights is great, and certainly worth visiting, but there are other great sights in Venice, some of them just as great as those "must-sees": Scuola Grande di S. Rocco, Scuola di S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni, S. Sebastiano (see the three of them, and they'll outdo the Accademia, IMO), Gesuitti, the two churches of Torcello, SS. Redentore, the abbey and cloisters of S. Giorgio Maggiore (today the Fondazione Cini: totally unknown, but better than the church, which is by no means bad, either), S. Michele in Isola, S. Maria dei Miracoli, the Frari Church (ok, this one IS well-known), Ospedaletto, S. Giovanni Elemosinario, the Ghetto, the Arsenal (go inside when it's open for the Biennale), S. Maria Formosa, S. Giovanni Decollato, S. Nicolò dei Mendicoli, the Entrance to the University of Venice (nobody seems to know that – the one and only great 20th century sight of Venice!, work of Carlo Scarpa, Italy's greatest modern architect), Casa Goldoni (the house where playwright Carlo Goldoni lived, now a wonderful little museum), S. Lio ... I could go on and on!
Fourth rule: don't spend all the time racing from sight to sight. Take time to stroll through the lanes, take time to get completely lost (great fun!), take time to admire the city, which is maybe the greatest sight of them all. You might want to buy "Venice. Thirty Walks to Explore the City" by Paolo Giordani, Cicero editions (easy to find as soon as you're in Venice) – for me, that's the greatest book on Venice. Giordani doesn't say much about the "must-sees", about the big sights; he just touches them. His main topic is the city itself: he'll guide you into every hidden doorway, into every hidden courtyard. Terrific fun and delight for who loves this city.
Fifth rule: learn a few phrases of Italian before coming to Venice. You won't need them to communicate (everyone speaks English in Venice). But you'll need them to be accepted, and to be treated well. For the Venetians, faced with that abundance of tourists, it's a matter of politeness that you address them in their own language. You don't need to be perfect – just say one or two sentences, and show them that you're trying hard to speak Italian, and you'll find open-hearted, welcoming and generous people (and they'll speak a much better and much more fluent English with you than with English-only speakers, btw). If you stay a little longer, and if you really speak (some) Italian, you'll discover that Venice is a lively small Italian town like many others, just that transportation is much more difficult than anywhere else... and that the locals are rather eager to hide their everyday town life from the foreign crowds (and "foreigners" may come from Chicago or from Rome, there's no difference for the Venetians). No, it's not an error that I'm writing "town" instead of "city": despite her urban and world-famous art & architecture, Venice is a town today, with just 70.000 inhabitants. No, Venice is NOT "dying". It's just that she has no space to grow anywhere, being surrounded by water; and the amenities of modern dwelling are simply incompatible with the number of inhabitants Venice had once; noone would be willing today to accept the scarce housing room (and the dark and humid rat-holes) of centuries ago: apartments have been enlarged (which inevitably decreased their number), or converted into storage rooms (the rat-holes).

A recurring issue on Fodor's is transportation in Venice, so I'll say a few words on that matter. Water busses (vaporetti) may be fun to ride on, but they are extraordinarily slow; the locals don't use them much, cause if you have just a fair knowledge of the city, you're much quicker by foot. The prices for the water busses are unreasonably, just incredibly high: 5 Euros for a ride on the Grand Canal, 3,50 Euros for a "normal" ride (unless you are staying long enough or coming regularly enough to buy an abbonamento – a ticket for a whole month that becomes then a permit to buy "carnets", tickets for 90 Eurocents each). Nevertheless, for reaching the airport (the ever-recurring question, quite often twice a day on Fodor's!), it's by far the cheapest way to take the vaporetto to Piazzale Roma, and from there, the bus to the airport. Yes, it's possible to arrive early enough for your 6.50 a.m. flight. Vaporetti and busses are going all night through, though of course less frequently and with a reduced (but very well working) route plan. Water taxis have stratospheric prices, and though they are quite certainly convenient, I never use them.
Sixth rule: Pack light! You're being told that for each and every destination, but only in Venice you'll really learn the importance of this advice!!! Few things on a journey can be more exhausting than shlepping your luggage to, and from, your apartment or hotel in Venice.

Please note: This thread is not primarily meant for discussion... it's primarily meant for substituting myself while work won't permit regular posting during the next six or so months. I'll try to check once a week, however, so if anyone would like me to answer any questions related to accomodation in Venice, please post them here – I won't unfortunately be able to browse all the other threads...

Eloise Apr 20th, 2006 12:06 PM

Franco, two questions before your work calls you away:

Does the Fondazione Cini now open the cloister of San Giorgio Maggiore to the public? I admit I haven't tried in a few years, but some time ago it was off limits to the public.

The entrance to the University of Venice by Carlo Scarpa: Where is it? I know his work at the Fondazione Querini-Stampalia but I had no idea he had also done something for the University.

franco Apr 20th, 2006 12:16 PM

Eloise, the Fondazione Cini opens the gates every Saturday and Sunday, each full and half hours. The entrance fee is very high (12 Euros, if I recall it properly), but it's absolutely worth it... you see the two cloisters (the second a work of Palladio), the staircase and the library by Longhena, and the terrific dormitory by ... ummm, sorry, I don't recall the name: two architects, father and son, who don't seem to have build much else than this dormitory and the older cloister - but the dormitory is just GREAT.
And the entrance to the University is on the left side of S. Nicola da Tolentino; in fact, the university occupies the former abbey of S. Nicola.

Btw, I've made a typo (rather, a "pasto"): in my last paragraph, it should read "questions related to sightseeing and transportation in Venice", quite obviously - this is to become the sightseeing thread!!

Eloise Apr 20th, 2006 12:25 PM

Thank you again, Franco!

franco Apr 24th, 2006 04:22 AM

I thought I’d provide one final service: linking all “Franco’s favourite…” threads to each other, in order to make them more easily accessible to future users:

Venice:
food & restaurants: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791666
accomodation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791672

Rome:
where to stay: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792021
food & restaurants http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792415
sightseeing: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792538

Umbria: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792839

europhile Apr 24th, 2006 08:49 AM

bookmarking..

Take_Me_Away May 1st, 2006 07:14 AM

Just bookmarking.....

hazel1 May 1st, 2006 07:48 AM

ttt

franco May 8th, 2006 10:00 AM

In case that anybody hesitates to ask just because of my currently scarce presence on Fodor’s, I’d like to repeat that if you’d like me to answer any questions related to the topic of this thread, just post them here – I’m checking rarely, but regularly, but only my “own” threads due to work pressure.

franco May 16th, 2006 12:25 PM

ttt

anamaria May 16th, 2006 12:43 PM

Grazie,Grazie,Grazie,

LCBoniti May 16th, 2006 01:29 PM

Thank you so much! Very useful info.

JaniceO May 31st, 2006 10:12 PM

Franco,

I will be staying in Venice for a month - starting mid June - have heard of the Carta Venezia and the abbonamento which you mentioned but haven't been able to find out how to get them. Can you help?

Thanks, JaniceO

Marianna Jun 1st, 2006 01:13 AM

After watching the Venice show on Globe Trekker last night and I am really worried about getting from the car drop off (we are driving to Venice from Siena) to our hotel. How do you maneuver a suitcase on and off the boats? I need to do more research about this.

kappa Jun 1st, 2006 01:51 AM

> How do you maneuver a suitcase on and off the boats?

Basically you are on your own (some boat staff may help you though especially if you are really having problems, aged or handcaped,etc) so packing light is important.

lynclarke Jun 1st, 2006 03:25 AM

Marianna- Unless I am mistaken, you will park in the Plaza Roma area. You will walk with your suitcase down to the canal side, buy your ticket, and find your vaporetto stop. You can get on and off the vaporetto fairly easily as long as you pack a rolling suitcase and you can lift it with ease. You will go into the stop enclosure, wait for the vaporetto to tie up, wait for the passengers to disembark, then you will go onto the boat with the other passengers. Try to stand some where in the middle so people aren't falling over your suitcase. Our standard for packing is that we can load up our stuff, run down and up the basement stairs, then out of the house and down and up the driveway. If you can do that without any undo pain and panting, you are ready to go! lynclarke

yoshimurask Jun 1st, 2006 06:31 AM

bookmarking

franco Jun 2nd, 2006 11:58 AM

Marianna - maneuvering the suitcases on and off the boats is by far the smallest reason to worry. It's way easier than maneuvering them on and off a train, or on and off your car. The public boats' entrances are about four times as wide as a train's door, and there is no or only one step (depending on the current water level). No - the reason why you should actually pack light are by no means the boats: rather, it's about shlepping your luggage from the boat to your accomodation, and back. About shlepping it up and down the small bridges, with plenty of stairs... But as soon as you reach the boat, you'll feel relieved...

JaniceO - abbonamenti are being sold exclusively at the main ACTV (that's the Venice public transport company) ticket counter on Piazzale Roma (inside the small ACTV building that you're passing by when going from the parking lots to the vaporetto). You need a passport photograph of each person who wants an abbonamento, you have to fill in a longish form, and you have to pay, of course. They'll provide a provisional boat-and-bus-pass, since it takes some time until your definite pass (with your photo) is ready - after three weeks or so, you may pick it up. And I recommend to really pick it up - though you'll buy the abbonamento for but one month, the pass, when expired, will give you the right for several years (three, I think) to buy "carnets", inexpensive tickets like the locals do - just 90 Eurocents for a vaporetto ride! You'll appreciate that when coming back to Venice within the next three years...

prr761 Jun 2nd, 2006 05:04 PM

Franco:
If you noted this, I missed it, so I'm making this remark. On the vaporetto to Murano, etc. I saw a beautiful park area on the left side of the canal between S. Marco and San Michele. What is that and is it worth a trip there on my next visit? Also, one of our favorite sights is a walk at sunrise around the Guidecca side of the canal and around the little canals and bridges. The sunrise is "golden".

Spygirl Jun 2nd, 2006 09:09 PM

JaniceO-look at this website for info. on the Carta Venezia, and post back if you have more questions -there are a lot of "Venicephiles" out here!

www.hellovenezia.it/en/tariffe.html

And prr-were you on Line 41 or 42 to Murano? If so, the park you saw could be, well, the Giardini Pubblici (public gardens) along the eastern edge of Venice, as you walk east along the waterfront away from the tourist areas of Piazza San Marco. This is indeed a lovely spot, and is where the Biennale modern art exposition is held.(not so great,btw). Vaporetto Line #1 stops at Giardini, as does Line 42 I believe.

If it is not Giardini you saw, it could have been one of a number of lovely little parks in the city (there are a couple in Castello-the Garden of Remembrance,(Parco dello Rimembranze) and the cloister garden at the church of San Francisco della Vigna, both lovely.

As for Venice itself, I agree that, for example, if you rent an apt. in Venice and speak a bit of the language, you are quite accepted there, and you do discover that Venice is, in fact, a lively and very viable small Italian town (and not AT ALL similar to that odious book by John Berendt, I am SO GLAD the mayor of Venice, Massimo Cacciari, weighed in with an email to the NY Times expressing his disdain for that execrable work).

But I would not agree that "everyone" in Venice speaks English. I would say most speak some English in varying degrees of proficiency-enough to work within the tourist industry.

The Venetian world depends on tourism, after all-but I've observed their patience with the communication problems many times with the foreign invasion, where I've seen an amazing amount of grace under pressure and a willingness to help where possible.

And I also think that the Venetians, by and large, are some of the nicest people I've met anywhere in the world (oh, they have their cultural elitists-but I don't mind that-I can go one on one in that area!) (smile).

I don't know what Franco means when he says Venetians speak more fluent English with you when you speak a bit of Italian-that seems a rather odd statement to me, but whatever-I've not noticed any difference. One thing I do know, if you speak Italian, they DO give you things you don't get if you don't speak Italian-and btw, you should always ask for a "sconto" "discount"-in English or Italian -from apt. rentals to hotel rooms- through email and in person-you'd be surprised how often you'll succeed-and they'll think better of you for doing so!)

And no, Venice is not in any way a "dying city" (I do get disputes on that with some Venetians, however, Venetians, even more than Italians in other parts of the country, like to complain a lot!)

How many other places in the world are there where people still live in so many buildings that are 500-800 or so years old? Where there is so much well-preserved "sacred space"? Venice has survived with its artistic treasures for some 1,500-odd years, (and in amazingly good condition-considering its lagoon location- those ancient palazzi can't be all THAT fragile, as some groups would have you believe) and so one can only conclude that it will continue to do so for centuries to come.

TRSW Jun 2nd, 2006 11:02 PM

ttt - bookmarking

franco Jun 3rd, 2006 04:02 AM

Spygirl, thank you so much for taking over (I did indeed never doubt there are lots of Venicephiles here, and even some Venice experts among them). However, I'm sorry, but I doubt that your post will be very helpful for JaniceO - the link that you're providing does not explain what she wanted to know: you might not have noticed that the Carta Venezia is being listed there as "a travel card for residents of the Veneto region", and Janice wanted to know how to get it in spite of NOT being a resident. That's not clear from the helloVenezia website, but I hope it's clear from my post above - there's no other way to get it than the one I've described. Another site that doesn't explain how to get a Carta Venezia as a foreigner, but lists at least the abbonamento fares (which, too, are missing from the helloVenezia site) is http://www.actv.it/english/navigazio...iffe_vaporetto
As far as prr's park, the important question is not which line you've been taking (btw, spygirl: you mean 41 or 51 - the 42 is going the other way round, and to the left, there are no parks but exclusively water!) but from where you started - I'm sorry, but somehow, your memory plays you a trick: there is no canal between S. Marco and S. Michele, that's in fact the open laguna. If you start from S. Marco, i.e. from S. Zaccaria, you are actually passing by the Giardini, but they're on the opposite side of the city from S. Michele; and on the left side opposite S. Michele, there is no park (hardly anybody would call the S. Francesco della Vigna cloister garden a park; it's about twice as large as a living room). To arrive at a conclusion: just try it and go there; normally, it's worth going wherever in Venice! On the other hand, if you are sure that it's really the Giardini (maybe you can look on a city map), I'd only go while the Biennale is open - the Biennale part of the Giardini (closed to the public when there is no exhibition) is really marvellous, and moreover, there is this planet's most contemporary fine arts exhibition; the public part of the Giardini, however, is not sooooo great, there is in fact no difference to any nice park in any other city anywhere.

Eloise Jun 3rd, 2006 06:48 AM

Franco,

So nice to see you around again, even briefly.

I always check your Venice threads when something has been added, although I may never - after ten or so visits of a week or more - return there again. So many wonderful memories of some of the hidden jewels of Venice, so many horrible memories of the throngs of tourists, even though I was generally there pre-season and staying in Castello, San Polo or Dorsoduro...

JaniceO Jun 3rd, 2006 10:09 AM

Franco and Spygirl,

Thank you for your responses both were helpful. Franco, since you know about the abbonamento, do you know if there is some type of documentation I would need to prove I was renting an apartment for a month? I have nothing really but I could e-mail owner if need be. If anyone else has the answer to this question, please feel free to jump in. I leave shortly and would appreciate any help. Thanks, JaniceO

prr761 Jun 3rd, 2006 11:00 AM

Franco and Spygirl:

Yes, I do believe it would be the Giardini Pubblici. With so many wonderful sites to take in, I guess I did mix the location a bit. We got on the 41 vaporetto (I think) at S. Zaccaria, because it didn't stop at the park. Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to get there next time...and with Venice, there should always be a next time.

This was my 3rd visit-a week each time, and the fact that it is small in area, by no means describes what that small area contains. I forget how much I love it until I arrive at S. Lucia and step outside. Quite addictive.

We had an apartment this time and from now on, that will always be our way to visit. Agreeing with the contributors on the "places to eat in Venice" thread, we (2 couples) had a great Easter dinner from the wonderful offerings at the Rialto market. Cooking was really a joy (after getting acquainted with some of the oven challenges). We were in the S. Polo area, 1 block off the canal from the S. Silvestro stop, so it was a very good location for us. Loved the neighborhood! We kept in great shape, mostly walking instead of vaporetto, so we could indulge in all of the goodies without sacrifice. That means both eating and seeing!

Thanks again for the mention of many other sites we have yet to see!

Ardie Jun 3rd, 2006 02:09 PM

There's too much good information flying around! Bookmarking AGAIN!
Thanks

Betsy Jun 3rd, 2006 02:47 PM

A useful tip: There's no need to post a reply to bookmark. Just go to the top of your computer screen and click on "Bookmarks" then "Add Bookmark." Every time you open your bookmark in the future, the new posts that have been added will appear.

If you want this thread to appear when you click on your <i>user name</i>, you do have to post a reply of some kind, such as I'm doing now. If I have nothing to add to the thread, I usually just type TTT.

franco Jun 3rd, 2006 03:33 PM

Eloise, good evening! What a sad assumption - never to return to Venice! That would break my heart, as you can guess. But remember what we've been talking about here above - you still have to visit the Fondazione Cini! And in any other city of the world (Rome and Istanbul excluded), this alone would be considered worth the whole trip...

JaniceO - ok, I see that my original post, too, was not clear enough, sorry. That whole Carta Venezia thing is fairly misleading (that's in fact why I called that link not so helpful). The Carta Venezia (a permit to buy inexpensive tickets) is for residents only. You can't get it. - Break. - But you can get an abbonamento, a one-month-ticket. It has nothing to do with the unavailable Carta Venezia (originally). Everyone can get it. You don't need anything but the passport photo I've mentioned. No proof needed for having rented an apartment for one month. Just go to the ACTV office as described above, and you'll get it. - Break. - After your abbonamento expires (and that's what the ACTV doesn't explain anywhere), it miraculously turns into a Carta Venezia for three more years. NOW you have what you couldn't originally get. I hope I'll succeed this time to explain it - if not, I'll be around tomorrow, too...

prr761 - if you love to cook in Venice, you might want to check my &quot;Venetian food&quot; thread (the link is in one of my posts here above). On a recent request, I've added some recipes there that you can only prepare with ingredients from the Rialto markets (they're unavailable elsewhere, at least in that splendid quality).

JaniceO Jun 4th, 2006 09:14 AM

Franco,

Thank you for the follow up - I understand the situation now and will check on the pass when I arrive.

JANICEO

prr761 Jun 4th, 2006 10:37 AM

Franco...found the recipes and my mouth is watering! I will try some of them, with local ingredients (though you are right-can't really substitute those flavors) We got some tiny vongole and very fresh mussels at the Rialto and they were different even from the West and East coast U.S. flavor. You make me want to go back TODAY!!! Many thanks.

blachman Aug 2nd, 2006 06:54 AM

I hope this is the right thread to post this question. I'm considering getting tickets to the I Musici Veneziani: Baroque and Opera concert at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro through http://www.classictic.com, apparently a site without any booking fees, etc.

Has anyone gone to this type of concert or booked concerts through classictic.com? Would it be better to wait on this until I am in Venice? My wife and I will be there from August 18 through August 22 as part of our long anticipated 25th wedding anniversary Europe trip (we're also going to Florence and Rome) and I would be grateful for advice on this or other events.

kappa Aug 2nd, 2006 07:10 AM

San Teodoro is a costume concert and the quality was so so when I attended it a few years ago. Try San Vidal or other with performers not dressed in periode costume. San Vidal was really good. I buy the ticket on the spot a few hours or a day in advance.

Eloise Aug 2nd, 2006 07:29 AM

The Interpreti Veneziani who perform in contemporary clothing at the church of San Vidal are generally considered the best ensemble in Venice.

They have concerts on August 18, 19, 21 and 22.

http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/

Mimar Aug 2nd, 2006 08:40 AM

Franco, since you recommend walking, could you add some information about the traghetti to your Venice post?

(At certain points, a traghetto -- a gondola -- crosses the Grand Canal for a very cheap fare. Here's a web site: www.cheapvenice.com/traghetti-venice.htm.
But I'm not sure if the price is up to date.)

blachman Aug 2nd, 2006 09:01 AM

Hi Kappa and Eloise,

Thank-you for your great advice about the Interpreti Veneziani who perform at San Vidal. Eloise, thank-you also for the link and checking my dates against their schedule. I will certainly make plans to attend one of their concerts.

Thanks again,

Branton

CaptErnie Aug 18th, 2006 09:25 AM

Franco, Thank you in advance for your info on transportation to the Venice Airport.We will be staying at Hotel Bernardi, and we have a 7am flight. I have been unable to find info regarding schedules for the buses and vaporitti the early am hours. Do have a rough idea regarding how long this trip to the airport would be? Thanks again for your help!

franco Aug 21st, 2006 12:00 PM

First of all, my apologies for not having checked &quot;my&quot; messages for quite a long while. Eloise and kappa, thank you so much for substituting.

blachman, they have given you far better advice than I could - as a mad record collector and opera lover, I never dared attending such a concert. I just can't imagine it would really satisfy me... What I might add is that the church of S. Vidal has the additional benefit of a really excellent Vittore Carpaccio painting on the high altar - no need to attend a concert just to see the painting, though: the church is open during the day, other than the Scuola Grande di S. Teodoro, whose Sala Grande is open exclusively for the concerts!!! (Which made me, guess what? - consider visiting a concert, yes, of the costumed Musici, just to see the Scuola! But I repeat, so far, I couldn't get over my reservations.)

Mimar, again, I apologize for not noticing your question earlier. The fare is still the same - what is not up to date, though, is the Riva del Carbon traghetto - it has unfortunately been discontinued for about two years, so there are only six traghetti left. The most important is the one linking the Pescheria to Santa Sofia, but where you'll get most gondola riding for your 40 Eurocents is S. Tom&agrave; - that's by far the longest traghetto! (Crossing the Grand Canal diagonal.)

CaptErnie, the schedules are to be found at http://www.actv.it and http://www.atvo.it/orari/pdf_airport/mpolovenezia.pdf, respectively (two separate companies for the land busses, that's why). ACTV is the public Venice transport company, they are riding both the water and the (greater part of the) land busses. What's interesting for you is the water bus N (the night line), if you really want to be at the airport two hours before your flight takes off; or no. 1, if you decide to go a little later. As for the land busses, you need the ACTV no. 5 for the early arrival; if you go a little later, you can also choose the airport shuttle of the second company, ATVO. To arrive at 5.05 a.m. (that's the earliest public arrival at Marco Polo airport, so no other passenger can be there earlier than that, unless s/he is crazy enough to pay a fortune for a taxi), you'd have to leave from Ca' d'Oro (the nearest water bus stop from Hotel Bernardi, I guess) at 4.19.

stardancer Aug 29th, 2006 05:14 PM

FRANCO: Per the ABBONAMENTO thread with JaniceO: Thanks for your knowledge re getting an ABBONAMENTO for cheaper travel in Venice. I will be arriving on SUNDAY MORNING 24 Sept 2006 in Marco Polo Airport, probably taking the more convenient Alilaguna Blu line directly to Fondamento Nove for NINE DAYS at a Studio Apartment in Canale dei Mendicanti (offered by the inn which couldn’t accommodate me there!). But because the Alilaguna doesn’t leave early enough for me to make my plane on departure (so I must take vaporetti/ATVO bus TO the airport) AND because I wish to have the freedom to travel to tiny lagoon islands or lesser known parts of Venice, at a moment’s notice, multiple times, on different days, in bad weather, or late at night (I am a woman alone), a TRANSPORTATION PASS seems the best idea, at least as a backup, for security’s sake. But since I prefer scouting non-touristy neighborhoods to endless museums AND because I am a “starving artist”, the expensive VeniceCard doesn’t work for me. I would like to apply for the ABBONAMENTO (E8 plus passport photo &amp; ID &amp;”residential address”?) AS SOON AS POSSIBLE UPON MY ARRIVAL &amp; then IMMEDIATELY PURCHASE A MONTHLY UNLIMITED TRAVEL CARD for E30. I have been trying unsuccessfully for 4 weeks to obtain further info re this. Since you seem most knowledgeable on this subject, here are my QUESTIONS RE the ABBONAMENTO:
1) Can I APPLY for an ABBONAMENTO ANYWHERE ON A SUNDAY? If at airport or near my apartment, where? If only at PIAZZALE ROMA, can I APPLY on a SUNDAY(so as not to lose my first day for travel)? If yes, what time? You say: “You need a passport photograph of each person who wants an abbonamento, you have to fill in a longish form, and you have to pay, of course“ so: 2) Is the Form Available in English (or easy enough to understand)? AND: 3) How long should I expect the process to take? AND: 4) Don’t I need my Passport ID? ( I ask this as I have been warned that the hotel may request my passport to register with the police, &amp; I will try to keep it with me long enough to get the abbonamento first if such ID is required for that.) Further you say “But you can get an abbonamento, a one-month-ticket. It has nothing to do with the unavailable Carta Venezia (originally). Everyone can get it. You don't need anything but the passport photo I've mentioned. No proof needed for having rented an apartment for one month. Just go to the ACTV office as described above, and you'll get it.”, so 5) If I am asked for a “Residential Address”, do I need the Apartment’s actual Street Address, the apartment’s “Mailing Address” or just the Inn’s “c/o” address? (Or is this “address” not actually checked as you say that I must “pick … up “the abbonamento rather than having it mailed? Or is a mailing address required so they can notify you that the abbonamento is ready?) Further, I had been told that a month’s stay was required for the abbonamento, so 6 ) Is this correct, &amp; if so, must I give exact date of my departure flight, or can I just fudge &amp; say I will be there September &amp; October-or do they simply not check? Or does the ACTV merely mean that one must purchase a monthly card minimum first purchase (fine with me, as it costs little more than a 3 day card) AND lastly, 7) Is the monthly a card for 30 days, or simply for the chronological month? (Eg- in my case, would it last only until 30 September 2006 &amp; then I would have to make other arrangements for my last 2 days- in October? ) As you also say : “They'll provide a provisional boat-and-bus-pass (Is this TEMPORARY PASS given immediately upon application?), since it takes some time until your definite pass (with your photo) is ready - after three weeks or so, you may pick it up. And I recommend to really pick it up - though you'll buy the abbonamento for but one month, the pass, when expired, will give you the right for several years (three, I think) to buy &quot;carnets&quot;, inexpensive tickets like the locals do - just 90 Eurocents for a vaporetto ride! You'll appreciate that when coming back to Venice within the next three years... “) but of course, I do not know WHEN I would return to Venice, so FINALLY: 8) Would a failure to pick up the abbonamento within a certain time period cause a problem picking it up later or applying for one a 2nd time after the 3 year expiration?
I apologize for all of these questions, but trying to get information from “official sources” etc has resulted in bits &amp; pieces over several weeks, and the sooner I get ALL the information, the sooner I can prepare everything I need to get the abbonamento &amp; monthly pass as soon as possible, or, if need be, be prepared to make other arrangements. I will be leaving for Venice shortly &amp; wish as little last-minute stress as possible, so all of your information will be very greatly appreciated!!! Thank you so very much! Grazie mille! ?

franco Aug 30th, 2006 04:35 PM

Welcome at the ACTV information desk, my name is Franco, can I help you?

Yes, I hope I can:
1. Only at Piazzale Roma, as far as I know. I've never checked, but can't imagine they could be open on Sundays. Just spend the first day strolling, you'll really need the vaporetto rarely!
2. I don't recall precisely, but I think it was bilingual Italian-English. If not, this can't quite be a serious problem, can it? Just ask the ACTV clerk if you have problems filling the form in...
3. Filling in the form? 10 or 15 minutes; the definitive pass won't be ready before your departure, but I repeat, you're immediately getting a provisional edition of your pass.
4. I don't think so. But anyhow, you should get your passport back from the hotel reception within a few minutes - for the registration with the questura, they don't need anything but a photocopy of your passport, which takes about 40 seconds to make...
5. The address of the apartment (NOT the hotel), which should read like Cannaregio, 6000-and-something, if you are on the Rio dei Mendicanti. The address is in fact good for nothing, since they won't mail you anything. It's just necessary because it is required, that's it.
6. No, it's not correct. The abbonamento just IS a monthly card, so this is not the minimum purchase but the one and only available purchase. Expired abbonamenti then TURN automatically into a Carta Venezia, but originally, abbonamento means nothing else than one-month-ticket.
7. For the chronological month. During your last two days, your abbonamento will already serve as a Carta Venezia, giving you thus the right to purchase a carnet (i.e. 10 tickets for 9 Euros, 90 cent each).
8. No.

stardancer Sep 2nd, 2006 07:15 AM

Franco: Grazie mille for your very prompt &amp; comprehensive reply! (I only just found it because for some reason I had problems accessing the site the past few days) Anyway- Bless you ! You are a darling! :) I really appreciate all of the information, so quickly, accurately &amp; succinctly, after all my failed attempts elsewhere. Now I know what I need &amp; what to expect! I am a new member here so I haven't followed the threads &amp; so don't know your connection with Venice; also I am sure everything is anonymous, as with other sites- but if you are in Venice now &amp; I bump into you there, my gratitude would love to buy you a drink!! :) Thanks again so very much!


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