Franco’s favourite ... Umbrian delights
 

On Umbria, I’m going to compile only one thread – since fewer people go there than to Venice and Rome, and as far as accomodation, I’m sorry I can’t help much: I’m always renting a private old stone house there, which is not (no more, to be precise) open to the public – just to patrons and friends of the owner. Two hotels that should be really nice (though not cheap, either) are: Orto degli Angeli in Bevagna, http://www.ortoangeli.com; and Villa Roncalli on the edge of Foligno (if you have a car – it’s quite far from the center). I haven’t stayed at either of them, but I know their respective restaurants, so I can judge the general (excellent) style of these two venues.

And now for the food: Umbrian food is among Italy’s best. No region on this planet is richer in truffles than Umbria (all kinds of truffles, so there are some of them almost all year round), and Umbrian cooks are using truffles almost as much as onions are being used elsewhere (and that’s only slightly exaggerated). Furthermore, Umbria is making Italy’s most famous, and best, salamis, and similar seasoned sausages – the region around Norcia in eastern Umbria is where those are being produced (and that the Italian name for sausages of that type is “norcineria” says enough about the quality coming from Norcia): many are made of game, such as wild boar or deer, and they’re also making raw smoked hams of those meats.
Some of Italy’s very best olive oil is coming from Umbria – always very fruity and intense. My favourite is a very small oil mill: Fratelli Nunzi in Cantalupo di Bevagna, inexpensive and great. Buy as much as you can there, in order to prevent them from ceasing activity (the younger generation is already running the mill as a part-time job) – you won’t regret it. Umbrian groceries are a joy for food addicts; almost every small village grocery a true delicatessen shop. And if you happen to be in the Foligno area in late September, don’t miss the “Primi d’Italia” festival: http://www.iprimiditalia.it/, a feast of pasta and risotto, with producers of all types (from industrial to small traditional manufacturers) from all over Italy – huge fun!

Regarding restaurants, I’m not an expert for all of Umbria – my recommendations are just for the regions where I normally base myself. Of the above mentioned two, the Orto degli Angeli restaurant is extremely pretty, but the food is not more than good; there are better choices in Umbria. Notably the second of the two, Villa Roncalli: this is one of my favourite restaurants everywhere in the world. One of the rare (RARE!!) examples of an Italian restaurant managing to combine traditional cuisine with creative inventions (most often, creative food in Italy is abominable – Italians are unflinching traditionalists in gastronomic matters!). The Villa Roncalli, to me, is worth every detour, and in fact, worth a journey to Umbria.
Not far from Foligno, in Montefalco, the Coccorone restaurant is another favourite: hearty, rustic, tasty, incredibly delicious food here, for still low prices.
Perugia has, surprisingly so, an excellent Sardinian restaurant: Aladino, via delle Prome, 11.
And yet another just gorgeous place is a really simple, by no means elegant village trattoria: the Taverna Castelluccio in, of course, Castelluccio (near Norcia, though “near” is somewhat exaggerated, given the winding mountain roads).

You’re also getting some really great wines in Umbria: white wines around Orvieto, red wines around Montefalco (the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a local grape variety grown almost exclusively there, is responsible for terrific wines, dry or even, believe it or not, sweet! – sweet red wines normally being a nightmare).

Ok, so much for food & drink. Regarding sightseeing, Umbria is a medieval region. It was full of powerful, rich and independent cities in the middle ages, which were step by step conquered by the popes - in the late 13th century, Perugia was the last to surrender. Given the relative proximity to Rome, the popes would never again allow these cities to grow or prosper - and today (now you understand why I'm teaching history here), they're merely bigger than in the 12th/13th centuries! That means that they don't go much beyond their medieval walls, e.g. - and that immediately outside these walls, you are right in the middle of acres and vineyards. Nevertheless, these small towns (in modern terms, they're rather villages) have kind of an urban flair to them, though in an almost intimate manner - everyone knows each other, like deep in the countryside, but then - there is that certain urban-civic pride, and the structure of a city, complete with magnificent churches, a civic museum (often boasting works of international importance), a tiny theatre and so on.
All in all, it's that unique coexistence of urbanity and cultivated landscape that makes Umbria very, very special; or where else do you have merely five minutes to go by foot from the urban theatre to the next vineyard? The best examples of this rural-urban mix are Bevagna, Todi, Spoleto, and Assisi (yes, Assisi – unfortunately, the only spot in Umbria already spoiled by tourists and notably by pilgrims!!!), but also Spello, Città della Pieve, and even (bigger) Orvieto.
Assisi, of course, has the biggest artistic treasure: the Basilica di S. Francesco, better than each and every museum on medieval Italian painting – certainly one of the most beautiful (and most important, artistically) churches on earth. Overcrowded or not, I feel the need to return every time when being in Umbria.
But it’s also worth touring the countryside, apart from the big and important sights. Many of those totally forgotten medieval towns/villages are waiting for you; just think how rewarding it is to discover the mummified corpse of Beato (i.e. blessed) Ugolino in the crypt of the church of Gualdo Cattaneo, “whose nose and left foot were stolen by his ardent worshippers in the moment of death”, as a faded sign will teach you.

Then, the landscape is marvellous - very much like Tuscany, though a little more alpine and a little less man-made. And above all, it's a tranquil and relaxed region (nobody would ever lock the front door in Umbria, there's no need to). The landscape is rising in the East of the region, around Norcia/Cascia, and there you’ll find the best of Umbria’s non-artistic beauties: the Piano Grande region. High mountains there, but softly shaped, not rugged; and three plateaus in between that are unique in Europe: the Piano Grande (as the most beautiful and important), Piano Piccolo and (just across the border to the Marche region) Piano Perduto, all of them boasting luscious green of weeds and - lentils! Europe's most famous and most delicious lentils are being grown there. Apart from the lentils, the plateaus are EMPTY. No house, no hut (strictly forbidden to build anything there!), no tree. On the one and only steep rock around, in the middle between the three plateaus, there is Castelluccio, a tiny mountain village haunted by the cold winds, a weather-beaten place somehow out of earth, a bit like on the moon. And here (thanks to expert Fodorite nessundorma) is a link to wonderful Piano Grande pictures: http://dptpch.slide.com/c/Piano+Grande

Please note: This thread is not primarily meant for discussion… it’s primarily meant for substituting myself while work won’t permit regular posting during the next six or so months. I’ll try to check once a week, however, so if anyone would like me to answer any questions related to Umbria, please post them here – I won’t unfortunately be able to browse all the other threads…

Franco, I'm glad Coccorone in Montefalco has your seal of approval. I had a wonderful meal there, of which I still remember each detail - including the Sagrantino (not the passito; I had that elsewhere).

I would add to your list of recommended accommodations the Palazzo Bocci in Spello. It's beautifully appointed and has lovely views of the Umbrian countryside. Besides, Spello is such a perfect tiny jewel, almost untouched by time.

franco,

"Venetian Villas" arrived in the mail yesterday...it is a beautiful book!! I am so eager to sit down and read it cover to cover..thank you (again...)..and yet, another question...Villa Roncalli sounds not to be missed..we have only one night not accounted for in the area...would you choose it or Le Tre Vaselle in Torgiano,the Lungarotti hotel???? As always, many thanks...

Mille grazie Franco,
Very good input for anyone going to Umbria.

Thank you for the great info. Is the restaurant Villa Roncalli anywhere near Perugia?

Traviata - VERY tough question! The Lungarotti hotel is reportedly excellent, and their wine is worth tasting in any case; Villa Roncalli is so great as a restaurant (and if the hotel is only half as pretty as the dining room, you'll still love it). If I were to choose, I think I'd decide for Villa Roncalli, since personally, I always rate restaurants higher than hotels (I don't spend much time in my hotel room, but I'm a food addict), but that depends on your preferences... but you could even stay at Le Tre Vaselle, and dine at Villa Roncalli; it's certainly not more than half an hour by car (and you'd be passing Cantalupo di Bevagna, and could stop at the Nunzi oil mill...). Honestly, I don't know enough about your likes and dislikes - as far as food, at least, the Villa Roncalli, hasn't much competition. And btw, I'm glad that you like "Venetian Villas".

Maire, the distance between Perugia and Foligno is modest - 20 miles maximum, quick driving on a major road.

Thank you, Franco. One more question....we might have a rental car--I'm not sure yet. If we don't, would it be doable to get from Perugia to Foligno?

I can't imagine it could be a problem by train - but from the Foligno train station to Villa Roncalli (on the very Eastern edge of that town), a car would be helpful! You might want to take a taxi - don't try to walk, it wouldn't be a pleasant overture to such a delicious meal.

Thank you, Franco.

franco,

The best of all possible worlds....try them all!! Good advice...now I must plot how to space everything, but I will surely try to experience as many of them as I can.....Thank you!!

I thought I’d provide one final service: linking all “Franco’s favourite…” threads to each other, in order to make them more easily accessible to future users:

Venice:
food & restaurants: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791666
accomodation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791672
sightseeing & transportation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791890

Rome:
where to stay: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792021
food & restaurants http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792415
sightseeing: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792538

I agree that Umbria is, as yet, more undiscovered than Tuscany. Umbria has charms all its own. We just spent several days in Perugia and Monteleone with day trips to Assisi and Spoleto.

The best pizza I've ever had anywhere (and I've tried LOTS of pizza) was at the Cafe di Perugia, which is just a short walk from the the escalotors, towards the main piazza, with a turn to the right just a block or so before the piazza. It was the lightest crust I've ever tasted. I ate every bite.

We stayed at a lovely B&B in Monteleone, Palazzo Consoli. If you want to be in a quiet undiscovered treasure, this is it!! The little town of Monteleone is only on very specific regional maps. It's near Orvieto, if that helps, but on the other side of the motorway, at the Fabro exit. The drive to the town is on a scenic 2-lane road.

Simpsonc510--

I can't wait to try that pizza in Perugia.

Hello Franco, My husband and I will be in Italy this fall for 26 days. I have aready planned the first half of our trip in Tuscany. We want to spend the rest in Umbria. Leaving Sorano, Sovan and Pitigliano and heading to Orvieto, Todi, Montefalco, Spello, Assisi and Cortona. Usually we stay outside of cities/towns....but would like to stay in a city for 2/3 nights, which of the above would you chose?
Thanks!

Thanks for the great information! We just spent five nights in Umbria, at Le Case Gialle near Bevagna, last month and just loved it. The scenery and towns are splendid, and definitely less touristy than Tuscany. My favorite hill town was Spello, but we visited so many great ones. I wish I had all of your information before we left!

Tracy

Mille grazie, Franco!

Vado passare due settimane in Umbria quest'estate, a Paciano...

This information is wonderful for my trip planning; though I'll be staying with a local it's always good to have other viewpoints.

And my wine store here in the DC area has just begun selling a wonderful Montefalco Rosso that I've been enjoying immensely.

Great information - thanks!

franco, thank you so much for the report. I've printed it and it will now go into my Umbria folder for future use! Umbria is on my "short" list of future vacations.

StCirq,

I must be your neighbor....would love to know where you are finding the Montefalco Rosso, and also which vintner you have found...we are just about finished with the supply we brought back...Thanks so much!

Traviata:

I live outside DC in Alexandria, VA. The Montefalco Rosso I've been enjoying is a 2002 Vignabaldo. I buy it at a wine store in Alexandria called Unwined.

Where are you?

Hi St.Cirq,

I am in Oakton!! Is Unwined near Old Town?? We use Vienna Vintner quite a bit...they are great about bringing things in, but so far, no Montefalco...I will check out your suggestion...Thanks!

Thank you, Franco, for this wonderful thread.

Amazing: of all my "favourite" threads, I supposed those on Venice would get most responses/questions - but no, it's Umbria! Obviously, people are discovering it; and it's certainly worth it!

twoblueshoes - if you want to stay in a city, I can't recommend any of the places you've mentioned! None of them is a city; Orvieto and Cortona are towns, and the rest are big villages, Spello and Montefalco not even big ones. The one and only "city" around is Perugia, which is in fact not more than a big town, either, but with such an urban flair that it definitely gives you a city feeling - and it's one of the greatest of Umbria's medieval places, so I'd strongly recommend to stay there, anyway.

Btw, for those who don't know yet, I might add that Montefalco Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese and (a smaller portion of) Sagrantino, so it's smooth like a good Sangiovese, and yet full-bodied thanks to the Sagrantino grapes.

Hi franco!

It is lovely to see you posting....as always, more questions...all I have left of what we brought back is a Caprai Sagrantino and a Madonna Alta Sagrantino.....is the Montefalco Rossa a blend, as you have described, and these are 100%?????

Hi Traviata, yes, if the label says "Sagrantino di Montefalco", it's always 100 percent Sagrantino, and this is also true for Passito.

franco,

Thank you....I thought so, but bow to the expert....!

In case that anybody hesitates to ask just because of my currently scarce presence on Fodor’s, I’d like to repeat that if you’d like me to answer any questions related to the topic of this thread, just post them here – I’m checking rarely, but regularly, but only my “own” threads due to work pressure.

ttt

Franco: Any chance you'll be in Umbria between July 1 and July 16? I'd love to buy you a glass of Montefalco for providing this wealth of information.

StCirq - no, purtroppo. No chance that I'll make it to Umbria this year... which is all the worse since I have almost nothing left of Nunzi's incomparable oil... heavy seas are about to surge against my kitchen!

Franco,
Once again THANK YOU! for taking the time to tell your story here. We chatted about Venice.

We'll be staying in Cortona for 4 nights in September and I was thinking of taking a ride to Orvietto (AM) and Todi (PM).

I'm trying to keep us within about an hours drive from Cortona. I'm thinking small town vs. more touristy and congested. Is Todi the right match or is there lesser known gem nearby?

I like the way you think about food and wine! Any suggestions for lunch (we plan to be back in Cortona by dinner time).
Mille grazie,
Terry

Terry - of course, Todi is no longer a "hidden gem", but a gem nevertheless, and certainly worth visiting, though you won't be the only one... I wouldn't want to skip it, though. Nor would I suggest to skip Orvieto, though I must admit that I never fell in love with it. The Duomo is a great piece of art, and the town is pretty, but somehow it always failed to make me feel "at home".
Of course, there are hidden gems, too. You'll pass by Città della Pieve on your way from Cortona to Orvieto, which is a wonderful medieval Umbrian town - the only one constructed in brick rather than stone, with a wonderful Perugino fresco in the tiny church of S. Maria della Mercede, and with no tourists at all. The second hidden gem within your reach (ok, maybe slightly more than one hour, but very rewarding) is Lugnano in Teverina, a village boasting one of Italy's best and most beautiful small Romanesque churches, and a gorgeous view over the Tiber valley.
As for restaurants, sorry, this is not "my" part of Umbria, and I have no recommendations for you.

Wonderful feedback once again Franco. That's just what I needed.
Thanks,
Terry

Franco,
One more question if I may... if I can manage to cover this as a day trip from Cortona... how much time would "you" allow for each of the 4 stops? Via Michelin says that it's a 4 hour and 15 minute loop (Cortona - Todi - Lugnano in Teverina - Orvieto - Città della Pieve - Cortona). Sound about right?
Grazie,
Terry

Franco,

"No region on this planet is richer in truffles than Umbria (all kinds of truffles, so there are some of them almost all year round)"

HAVE YOU NOT BEEN TO PIEDMONT?

XXX

Would agree absolutely Sampaguita, it is the Piemonte/Torino area that is known and famed for its truffles, NOT Umbria.

Sampaguita - yes, of course I've been to Piedmont, and it's a marvellous region. This fact, however, does not justify that you're abusing this forum for promoting your region (look at Sampaguita's email address, and at the respective website - this is a hotel, guess where, in Piedmont!!). Especially if, in order to do so, you need to make silly suggestions.

GirlTravel, this is not a thread about the known and famed - on the contrary, it's based on the fact that most informations of the "everybody knows" type are wrong. I took for granted that "everybody knows" that Piedmont (and French Périgord, of course!) are "known and famed" for truffles, that's exactly the reason why I've made my remark about Umbrian truffle quantities. All of France is producing 20 tons of truffles in a year, most of which come from south-eastern France, and only a small (and decreasing) quantity from Périgord; and Italy is producing about 100 tons, but merely 5 tons (!) come from Piemonte - the rest is primarily from the Marche region, and from Umbria, as I told above.

Terry - I think it's doable to visit all the four of these towns on one day. Viamichelin is not driving as quickly as I do, and I'd calculate one hour each for Lugnano in Teverina and Città della Pieve, two for Orvieto, and maybe two and a half for Todi; I suggest to leave Città della Pieve for the late afternoon, so if you see that you don't make it all on that one day, you can assign more time to the three other towns, and you might want to make a second excursion to Città della Pieve, which isn't that distant from Cortona.

Many thanks Franco for all this valuable information. I was in Umbria for all too brief trip last Spring. I hope to return within the next 12 months - its a delightful region with so much to see.

Mille grazie Franco! I'm so grateful for your advice. Thanks for taking the time to answer each and every one of my questions, especially since I know that you are super busy. Hope your project is going well.
Ciao,
Terry

Franco,

I am disapointed that you see fit to abuse my posting when I pointed out to you about Piedmont truffles, when you were raving about Umbrian ones.

I don't know what's your beef, yes I do live in Piedmont and yes I do have a B&B, and I do love Piedmont and to let people know about it, but did I say you MUST come here for the best truffles in the world? Your response was a bit trucelent if I may say so, it looked like to me as if you like to post these long reviews but bristle at the hint of a critiscm, which in this case none was intended.

I was curiuos too as I have seen your postings many times with lengthy discourses, are you a travel writer? Or planning to be one perhaps. Or perhaps a famous food critic for some journal?

I look forward to when you do your review on Piedmont, we are very proud of our regions wine and cucina you know.

Sampaguita - if I've got your posting wrong, I apologize. Maybe my perception of what you've written has been distorted by the following posting, but still, and reading it again, I have to admit that your original entry seems very unkind to me, not because of the "hint of criticism" but primarily because of your shouting at me (capital letters!). And I must admit (to add some self-criticism) that I'm somewhat impatient with "corrections" that are in fact wrong. As far as I'm concerned, my principle is to speak out exclusively on matters on which I'm 100 percent sure, and if, to give an example, an art historian tells me something about da Vinci, I'd never "criticize" him saying "but Dan Brown wrote...". Maybe I'm TOO impatient in this respect - if so, I'm sorry.
No, I'm not a travel writer, nor a food critic, I'm just a passionate traveler who wants to share some experiences.
As far as Piemonte, I don't know the region well enough to write about it (this would certainly result in "informations" of the Dan Brown type) - so far, at least. It may be, however, that my next work project will guide me to Piemonte in autumn or winter, and if so, I might well write another of my lengthy reviews on that region... maybe I'll manage to be less lengthy, that time (cause this is a criticism that I do accept - I, too, thought more than often it would be preferable if I could somewhat restrain my postings in size).

Terry, thank you, my project is going more than well. Hope that you'll enjoy your trip, and report here accordingly!