|
Flowers, flowers everywhere - May in London
Got back late Wednesday night from a jam packed trip - two nights at Sissinghurst, three nights in Chelsea, and a night at LHR.
First a bit of background/whys and the basic highlights with more details to come: Made most of the plans/bookings in Jan/early Feb. This would have to be a short trip squeezed in between a family wedding and week at Tahoe. Thought about a couple of days in Paris or maybe Liverpool. But in the end the timing worked for the Chelsea Flower Show. I hadn't been for several years and belonging to the RHS, could attend on one of the 'less crowded' - yeah right(!) - member days.I have a major bucket list and a mini bucket list. - one of the things on my ‘mini’ list is to stay at the Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse B&B. Not just stay there but stay in a specific room — one of the rooms has a diamond shaped window (sort of like a porthole) looking straight out to the Sissinghurst tower and garden. While I was mulling over where to split with my London visit - I was reading an article about Sissinghurst - hmmm - just a thought and went to the B&B website and the couple of days I was considering was completely booked up . . . except for the ‘porthole’ room!! So that was decided. First two nights at Sissinghurst. Then I looked at airfares . . . OMG -- business class SMF > LHR was running nearly 8000 USofA dollars. And that was for nasty schedules with 0-dark thirty departures and two connections in the States. For the best options like SMF>LAX or DFW>LHR with a reasonable time on the ground/total transit time it was approaching 5 figures. WHO pays these fares anyway???? Business over and Economy home was still over $6000. So I again turned to AAVacations to see what sort of deals were out there. Home run! Could book Business Class: 1PM SMF > SEA on Alaska connecting to a 6:45 PM AA flight to LHR arriving around noon, plus 3 nights at a wide range of London hotels, then LHR > DFW > SMF w/ good timings - the total cost would depend on the chosen hotel. I picked San Dominico House in Chelsea since it looked quite nice and is walking distance to both Chelsea Hospital and to Sloane Square . . . and the total for everything was $3,680.05 . . . Yes, more than $4000 less than just the airfare alone! (I asked the manager what my room would have cost during the run of the Flower show if I had booked w/o the AA package -- they were 100% booked up but IF my room was available now it would be £520 ($645) per night - so that comes to nearly $2000 for the room alone). Booked it! Booked the last night at a LHR Holiday Inn Express free on points. Then I looked at events/exhibitions/plays during my visit -- the David Hockney immersive at the Coal Yards was a must. The Wallace Collection was running Portraits of Dogs: From Gainsborough to Hockney, which sounded fun. Tate Modern has Hilma af Klint & Piet Mondrian - Forms of Life. For theatre I booked Sheridan Smith in Shirley Valentine which had received rave reviews, and Jersey Boys which somehow I've managed to miss over the years. And finally my one 'posh' meal -- Sunday lunch at Elystan Street which is also walking distance from the hotel. Basic framework set, I filled in the details over then next couple of months . . . a GTG with kmowatt, train tix London to Tunbridge Wells/return, other exhibitions, etc. This TR will have lots (too many probably) of flower pix for sure - between Sissinghurst, Chelsea in Bloom, and the flower show. Need to start sorting through them this evening. Hope to get to the actual report in the next day or two . . . |
Can’t wait to see!
|
I am excited to hear all about Sissinghurst and I love that you had a specific room at the B&B you were stalking.
also have caught lots of great photos on Insta for the Chelsea Flower Show. Can’t wait to see yours! |
^^^”I have a major bucket list and a mini bucket list.”
This is a wonderful concept and I plan to refine my own list ~ Flowers are not a major draw for me, but I do love the logic and logistics of your travels; will be reading with great interest! |
Looking forward to a good read and lovely visuals.
|
Me too looking forward to your TR JJ. Just read that Monty Don has been involved in a controversy at the Chelsea show.
yours in blossom I am done. the Tibetan elm |
Read all the Nicolson diaries years (decades?) ago and have such great memories of their life at Sissinghurst. Sounds like a great trip. Had to Google your airport-Sacramento! I’m at SBA (also hard to get to places).
|
Wed/Thurs West coast USA to Sissinghurst:
I knew it was too good to be true :( The original schedule had about 3.5 hours on the ground in Seattle and noon arrival at LHR. The plan was to freshen up/shower and have lunch in the LHR AA Arrivals Lounge, take the tube to Charing Cross and train to Tunbridge Wells or other nearby village and taxi to Sissinghurst - getting there around 4PM-ish. Easy peasy. Then about 3 weeks after I booked the flights I received the dreaded "There has been a change in your trip" e-mail. Now instead of 3+ hrs at SEA, the AA flight was now departing at 10:35PM -- meaning not only having to kill more than 7 hours at SeaTac, I wouldn't arrive at LHR until around 4PM. Which made the travel day a lot looooooonger and the trek to Sissinghurst a lot later. I contacted the B&B to ask if there was a taxi company or transfer service they could recommend to drive from LHR to Sissinghurst. She said yes -- the charge would be £125 cash which I thought was actually pretty reasonable since its about 75 miles. Later I contacted her to get the driver's e-mail/phone number so I could contact him directly if there were any glitches . . . "Not to worry, its my husband, you can go through me." ;) The AS flight was fine -- some people complain about Alaska but I've always had really good experience with them. I'm a pretty lowly Platinum w/ AA, yet when flying a code share or on an AA PNR, AS cabin crew always addresses me by name (which AA doesn't always do) and even when in coach gives me extra snacks. The flight was about 50 miles too short to get an actual meal but that was OK since I'd had a hummus/charcuterie plate at SMF and now had HOURS on the ground in SEA to eat and drink myself silly. I had left things too late to order ££ from my bank and only had about £20 left over from my last trip so, aware it would be at a premium, decided to but some ££ at SEA. Should have just waited to use the ATM at LHR - When we tell Fodorites that buying foreign currency is expensive we mean it - the £ was about $1.24 the day I flew,- and the Bureau de Change charged $1.55! AA doesn't have a lounge at SEA so I used the N gates Alaska Lounge which was very nice. Not a lot of real food but great views, friendly staff and craft beers. Knew even though we weren't departing til really late there would still be a full dinner service on board I limited myself to snacks and a couple of really good stouts. The over night flight was really smooth and I slept maybe 4.5-5 hours. Dinner was a harissa Prawn appetizer, salad, and Honey/soy glazed salmon followed by a cheese plate. The pre-arrival 'snack' was a mini chicken, leek and mushroom pie. Let's just say the salmon was better than the pie ;) Arrived at T-3 a few minutes early, and with no checked bags and the quick e-gates I was out through the customs door facing the gauntlet of drivers with signs in just a few minutes. Fastest I've ever cleared arrival at LHR. Walked up and down the line of drivers with no luck. Phoned the B&B and she said he should have been there by now -- that I should call him . . . Uh - you didn't give me is number. 'Oops - sorry. I'll just ring him - he'll be there in about 5 mins" Told them I'd be over in front of WH Smith away from the throngs. Come to find out, she had originally sent him to T-2 and he had to leave that car park and drive around to the T-3 short term lot.. If I had been able to call him myself I could have told him to just stay where he was because its a reasonable walk from T3 to T2. But never mind -- there he was and we jumped in the car and wizzed out of LHR and on to the parking lot that is the M25 :) He is a newly retired vicar and still an advisor to the Rochester Diocese. Really interesting guy and we talked about everything - which is a good thing because much of the drive was standing still -- no real issues on our side of the motorway but a series of major and minor wrecks on the other side cause rubber neck slow downs on our side. Two and a half hours later we walked in the door of the really lovely Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse B&B. Anna and Richard are relatively new having taken over the leasehold from the National Trust in 2019. What a joy -- the property is drop dead gorgeous, the breakfasts are terrific, the staff are great - more on that later. I unpacked and went out on the terrace with a glass of sherry while Anna made up a version of a ploughman's for my supper. . . . Day one had been looooooong but now I'm here and it was all worth it. Next: Friday - Sissinghurst Gardens, perilous trek through the woods, nice pub dinner. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17a9402a59.jpg My bird from the Alaska Lounge https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81c81d9b96.jpg Harissa Prawns / salad https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...626413267e.jpg Salmon main course https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01c1ebc05b.jpg Sissinghurst farmhouse B&B https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8159cddbe0.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec769d6e95.jpg Residents lounge https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9188ea6b19.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f6e80c38b.jpg My room https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...168d0a0119.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a4d40431e.jpg Sissinghurst Tower from my diamond window https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86018a048a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a53cfe6742.jpg Breakfast room https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da5d61dc32.jpg Wisteria everywhere |
Thanks everyone - it may take me a few days to get my photos sorted and get this thing finished.
|
God…the airlines. It’s always something with a schedule change. The B&B looks really nice and I love wisteria!!!
|
What a lovely B&B.
|
Friday May 19 - Sissinghurst Gardens, perilous trek through the woods, nice pub dinner.
Slept like a baby --wonderfully comfortable bed. Breakfasts here are wonderful. Choices from a FULL English (everything including the baked beans and black pudding), cold cereals, pastries, yoghurts, avocado toast, various types of Benedicts, etc. This morning I had the full English with poached eggs and everything was superb. Had planned on eating lunch at the Granary in the Gardens but between that breakfast and a 6PM dinner reservation no mid-day noshing was required. Wandered over to the Garden - literally a 2 minute walk a little before the 11AM opening time and had a cup of tea and explored the gift shop. I was disappointed they didn't have any gardening gloves that fit (but heck, I'm going to Chelsea which will have Basically I spent most the rest of the day wandering through the gardens - plus took a walk out through the meadows. and took a short break back at the B&B to shed a sweater and put on a lighter blouse. It has been a weird spring (isn't that so every year?? ) so it was sort of between seasons - no spring bulbs except for some tulips, the roses not yet in bloom . . . but the white garden was glorious, wisteria in full bloom. This is my third visit over about 25 years - all in either May or June and every time what's in bloom has been different. Watched volunteers and staff trimming hedges and planting annuals, chatted with lots of interesting people. Felt so sorry for one group of Americans on a garden tour - I asked where they were going after Sissinghurst and it turns out they would only have one hour for Sissinghurst before moving on to Scotney Castle :( Ask me why I Wandered back 'home' about 4:30. Needed to book a cab for Tunbridge Wells to catch a train Saturday morning. Already knew Richard couldn't drive me over because he had a morning tee time in the opposite direction. The info book in my room had a list of 4 taxi companies, but for some reason my phone wasn't letting me make an outgoing call (got that straightened out later). Went downstairs and one of the staff got her phone and we tried all 4 cab companies. 1st one fully booked, 2nd one didn't answer, 3rd one couldn't take me until after 2 PM, and 4th one - "Tunbridge Wells is out of our area". OMG -- here I am 15 miles from Tunbridge Wells and no way to get there - damn! Anna and her other two staffers all put their heads together to come up with a solution - none of them could do it because there was a complete turnover on Sat - all eight rooms checking out and the entire place filling up Saturday afternoon with one party who were also having a private dinner that night. I could catch any train so timing wasn't urgent but I did have to get to London by 1:30 or 2PM at the very latest because had a GTG arranged for 3PM. We finally settled on a plan than Anna would take me the 5-ish miles to Staplehurst and I'd catch a train there, changing at Tonbridge (not to be confused with Tunbridge Wells) which would hook me up with the original train from Tunbridge Wells. (On Saturday things were a lot more dramatic -t but we didn't have any idea about that on Friday afternoon! ) Phew -- that settled . . . I had booked dinner at the Milk House pub which is a little over a mile from the B&B. They said its about a 20 minute walk whether I take the road all the way take the foot path cut off through the bluebell woods - "We haven't had any rain, the path will be dry. Just keep heading towards he church steeple." - so I set out about 5:20 thinking I'd have a drink in the beer garden before my 6PM dinner. Well - I managed to turn a 20 minute stroll into a 42 minute ordeal. Now this may sound posh but isn't really -- I was wearing Prada shoes. They are actually really comfy fine leather driving loafers with good supportive soles which I've taken on on at least 6 overseas trips and probably walked a hundred miles in them. Why is this important you ask . . . because I get to the footpath and it looks easy -- so I turn off the road. Big (HUGE) miscalculation. I walk maybe 100 yards down the path and came to an area that looked solid / crusty but took one step, raised my foot and the shoe stayed in the very deep mud. I hopped up on the bank and managed to dig my shoe out of the mud. But now the mud was between me and my path back to the road - What to do now . . . looked ahead - could see the steeple and the path looked totally solid ahead. BUT about another 150 yards came to a muddy area that was narrow but gooey so I laid moved some branches to span is - worked great and I'm back on my way. But another 50 yards or so came to another large muddy expanse that was chewed up with horse tracks and no way at all to get around it -- the bank was too steep and the mud was impassable. DAMN -- all I could do was turn around and retrace my steps - cross the branches, and when I got back to the first disaster area I went off piste up the bank and through the undergrowth and managed to get around it without losing another shoe. Eventually made it back to the road and on to the pub -- walked in the door at 6:02! Needed a stiff drink -- well, not that stiff - ordered my first Pimm's of the trip. When they heard my of my trek -- they comped me a glass of wine. :) Dinner was very good - starter was prawn, cucumber, green papaya with a bit if heat but not too spicy. My main course was rosemary and lemon lamb loin with spinach. And a free glass of wine ;) Walked back to the B&B and (successfully) managed to clean my poor shoes. Next - Saturday May 20: body on the tracks, take this train - no take that train, San Domenico House, mini GTG, Shirley Valentine. (this is getting long so I'll post photos separately . . .) |
top quality write up as usual
|
loving your trip report.. and your poor shoes.
|
OMG…tromping around in Prada shoes …glad you got a complimentary glass of wine after that bit of fun.
the photos are beautiful! |
Saturday May 20: body on the tracks, take this train - no take that train, San Domenico House, mini GTG, Shirley Valentine.
Another great night's sleep and a good Avocado toast and poached egg breakfast. Because Staplehurst station is nearer, Richard was able to drive me over on the way to his golf club. The plan is to board the next train which will go to Tonbridge, where I transfer to the train coming up from Tunbridge Wells. Richard figured my Tunbridge Wells to Charing Cross ticket would be fine because they don't usually check tix between Staplehurst and Tonbridge - "Just stand on the platform on this side and the train will be here in about 5 minutes." "Great thanks so much!" and I waved good bye. But still a teensy bit unsure if my ticket was OK . . . instead of going directly to the platform, I went to the window and started to explain/ask. "No trains are running that way - a body was found on the tracks. Go over and across the tracks and get on the train to Ashford, then the fast train to St Pancras. Tickets to anywhere are valid for the journey." Apparently it had just happened because when Richard looked at the app before dropping me at the station it showed service as normal. I climbed the stairs and crossed over and boarded the next train with several other very confused people. When we arrived at Ashford it was total chaos and staff were directing people to get on any train no matter which London destination. Well, the next train is in to Victoria (!). Victoria would have been my preferred destination in the first place but from Tunbridge Wells, Charing Cross was it. So now I'm on a train to within a mile of my London hotel. :D It was a bit of a milk run with a lot of stops but still quicker (and a lot less hassle) than the fast St Pancras train then the tube to Sloane Sq. At the second stop a group of about twelve 20-something women and maybe three moms/aunties boarded dressed for a night out, carrying champagne bottles/glasses . . . yes, a hen party on the train. They proceeded to party all the way into Victoria getting more boisterous with every newly opened bottle. And you thought Americans were loud ;) Arrived a Vic Sta about 1:30 and needed to top up my Oyster. Heck, I can do that later - after the morning I've had I earned a taxi. Quick trip to San Domenico House in Draycott Place. Wow!! What a lovely property. It is a small boutique hotel -- just 19 rooms. No restaurant or bar, but beautiful public spaces, enormous rooms for London, roof terrace, and really helpful staff. Apparently it is owned by an Italian hotelier and its styled after one of its resorts in Italy. Most of the staff also appeared to be Italian. My room wasn't yet ready so I first had tea in the lounge, then went up on the roof terrace. About 2:15 the room was ready so I unpacked and freshened up and headed out to the Botanist in Sloane Square to meet up with kmowatt and 3PM. (I hadn't tried to organize a London GTG because my days were pretty jam packed but kmowatt saw one of my posts about attending Chelsea Flower Show and realized he be in London at the same time) We had a lovely time -- conversation, wine, nibbles, charcuterie, more wine, more conversation. I had wanted to see Shirley Valentine with Sheridan Smith - but forgot to book until the reviews landed on March 1. Damn — by that time the whole run was nearly booked solid. The only evening I have free is the Saturday night. Double Damn - Fri/Sat are an even tougher ticket. All that was available were £10 seats up in the rafters (which I'd have considered if it was a big musical - but for a one woman show — uh, nope. Or there were a couple of £90 seats far stage left or far stage right in the stalls - which at the Duke of York’s don’t have greatest sight lines . . . OR . . . £180 tix in the 3rd row including the 'Diamond Lounge ‘Experience’. The Diamond Lounge is access to a private lounge up to 90 mins before curtain, three (yes, three) glasses of champagne — why they think 3 glasses is a good idea??? But two before and one during the interval is pretty nice. Light bites/ice cream/ a program - and a toilet/cloak room. IMO - Champagne X3 and no queue for the toilets — that's worth close to the extra £90 right there ;) So That’s what I booked. What a marvelous show! Sheridan Smith was absolutely dazzling - a real Tour de Force including a bit of cheeky interaction with the audience. Act one was in Shirley's kitchen and the set was very nostalgic -- looked pretty much like my kitchen when I lived in the UK in the 80's. Act two is on a Greek Island and the set was like an abstract painting of sky, sand, and boulders - both sets were very effective. Enjoyed it more than the original film. I think the one-woman staging is more effective that the full cast, as good as that cast was. Back to Sloane Sq and short walk yo the hotel after a long but wonderful day. Next: Inside Harrods before opening (WHAT a difference!), V&A, Elystan Street, Chelsea in Bloom, Tate Modern https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b75bf5d12b.jpg San Domenico House Lobby https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...014ff1fe36.jpg Residents Lounge https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a633149587.jpg Residents Lounge https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1bb75fc84.jpg Roof Terrace https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd3cbf6c0d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6895ddbe9.jpg My room (no, it wasn't quite that purple, more claret-ish) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9b812d582.jpg The walls are entirely padded/upholstered toile |
Enjoying your report too. Always like learning about new gems in London town.
|
Was working on the next entry and got interrupted and somehow lost it. Not a big loss - easy enough to recreate-ish.
But I'm done for tonight -- thought I just post a few photos of Chelsea in Bloom. It's a tradition that during the run of the Chelsea Flower Show restaurants and shops throughout the neighborhood put out fresh floral displays. Some are in windows but most are on the business exterior. Some are huge and very elaborate, some have figures, some aim for pretty. I only shot a few of them while walking back and forth the the tube station. Just a small representation: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78c1a2ca6a.jpg Local plumbing supply shop https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59621f8025.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abfba24d84.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94d2195454.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f6f120032.jpg Cartier https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77fcffdfa0.jpg Tiffany & Co. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...085ce99eb2.jpg More Tiffany https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c403ba4333.jpg Tiffany & Co. entrance 'necklace' |
Wow…Sissinghurst, your room, those flowers 😍😍😍
|
love the pics.. goregous flowers
|
CiB! From a plumbing supply bathtub to Tiffany necklace ~ so clever and beautiful.
I had no idea. |
I haven’t been looking at trip reports for a few years since I haven’t been traveling but I am easing my way back into thinking about traveling and this is getting the juices flowing. Thanks.
|
We had a rooftop terrace at our hotel in Paris and ours was packed with local smoking up a storm. Your rooftop looks a lot more peaceful. Beautiful pictures and your play experience sounds lovely. Good play and good champagne. We didn’t have time for a play this last visit, but still remember fondly the play about the Kinks, sunny Afternoon, and getting to sit at small tables in the audience and getting drinks served.
|
That roof top terrace needs a bottle of Champagne !! Looks amazing.
|
How fun. Chelsea in Bloom! So beautiful.
Sunday's New York Times Magazine had a question for the Ethicist column: "Husband flies First class, puts me in coach. Is this fair?" Grrr. I'd like to slap the husband, who tells her that their 12- and 16-year-old children wouldn't be comfortable sitting in coach without her. Or what if he takes it earlier flight, so inequity would not bother her? I did not love the Ethicist's reply I irrationally feel that the universe owes me one business class seat to London, but the dilemma of acting like that husband. I am hoping to take one or both of my brothers to London this fall, and no way could afford to treat all of us so well. I have looked at the AA vacations site, and have seen only spartan single rooms with available upgrades. And then, the RT flights from STL are $3,450 just to stay in Slough or East Grinstead. Oh, well. This solves my ethical question. Just suck it up. I love your foot path story. My older daughter and I once took a path from Bakewell to Haddon Hall, wearing skirts, and found that the path ran through a long stretch of overhanging stinging nettle. |
Originally Posted by stokebailey
(Post 17468180)
. . . I love your foot path story. My older daughter and I once took a path from Bakewell to Haddon Hall, wearing skirts, and found that the path ran through a long stretch of overhanging stinging nettle.
Sunday May 21: V&A, Inside Harrods before opening (WHAT a difference!), Elystan Street, Tate Modern - or not This was my 'take it easy' day - The V&A and the Members Room, have a relaxed Sunday Lunch and fit in one of the Tates. Woke up about 6AM and decided I'd try to book a dry bar appointment -- Selfridges -- nothing available, Harvey Nicks - nada, Harrods -- 11:15 or 4:30. Booked 11:15 which would slightly change plans for the V&A. Took a long bubble bath and walked up to South Kensington and went straight up to the members room. Had a glass of Prosecco then a croissant and tea. By then it was time to walk up to Harrods so Donatello would have to wait til after I was primped and styled. Now -- I didn't realize Harrods doesn't open til noon. They do allow entry for hair or spa appointments, and for 'browsing' from 11:30 but they can't open the tills or sell anything until 12PM. Went around to the Hans Crescent entrance and the doorman let me in and directed me downstairs to the drybar. They greeted me by name and 20 minutes later I was a new girl. :) Only problem - I couldn't pay because it was only about 11:35. That's when I learned about the browsing - they told me to go explore and come back down after noon. I walked through the Food Halls, explored the Halcyon fine art gallery -- all with almost no one around. Then I went down to the lower ground floor headed back towards the drybar. Discovered the Halcyon Days enamels had been moved to a beautiful new space. Having so many of the enamel boxes I tend to have sales resistance unless it is something special. They tried to interest me in a large limited edition of QEII in her Order of the Thistle robes outdoors with heather, a stream and beautiful Balmoral scenery - but it was a bit above my pay grade (still think about it though ;) ). It was based on this photograph https://www.nationalgalleries.org/ar...artists/130821 I did buy one small music box that was on clearance. The VAT savings was a bit more than the cost of postage. (I bought it at straight up 12PM London time and DHL attempted to deliver it Tuesday at 10 AM California time -- when I was just leaving the Flower Show -- THAT is fast) Anyway -- now that its past noon I go back to the drybar . . . and they couldn't get the charge card terminal to work. I only had about £10 cash on me so I offered to get some ££ from a cash machine but they waved me off -- didn't charge me the £35! I tipped the stylist and went upstairs to head back to the V&A . . . I looked down at my shoes and while I had managed to clean them up, they could do with a good polish. I figured there had to be a shoeshine somewhere in Harrods -- but surprisingly just the cobbler (called Shoe Heaven) up on the 5th floor which needs advance booking and really does mainly shoe repairs and re-builds. When I told them my sad story about being stuck in the mud -- they whisked my shoes away and 10 minutes later they reappeared gleaming. And they wouldn't let me pay . . . TWICE . on the same day . in bloody Harrods fer crying out loud! :D By now it's after 1PM and my lunch booking is for 2:15 so I'll only have maybe 35 minutes for the Donatello exhibition (its a 10 min walk up to the V&A and from there a 10 min to Elystan Street so a bit rushed but very doable. In the end I didn't do Donatello any sort of justice but did manage to see a fair bit. The Attis-Amorino is a stunner and probably the star of the show. Not only the beautiful sculptures but his goldsmithing. Maybe saw 1/3 of the exhibit - instead of trying to rush through and take pics too I just bought several postcards. Time to walk down the Elystan Street - what a lovely meal - and being solo I wasn't sent to Siberia (thought there really aren't any 'Siberian' tables) and had a nice window table. Started with a glass of champagne. Then an asparagus starter. Now that could sound a bit boring - and I usually fix asparagus once or twice a week during the season. But without doubt this was the best asparagus dish I have ever eaten Asparagus, deep fried egg, truffle cream and roasted hazel nuts. It was sooooooo yummy. Then a very nice fillet of salmon, crushed Jersey Royals, more asparagus, all in a roe and butter sauce, with a glass of chardonnay. An a chocolate/chocolate/chocolate + vanilla ice cream and caramel -- sounds overpowering and rich but it was perfect. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05ba373e8a.jpg the best asparagus dish ever https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42072c7b46.jpg Salmon, asparagus & potatoes - wanted to lick the plate ;) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fca8bd636.jpg yuuuuummmmmy It was now time to head to Tate Modern for the Klint/Mondrian . . . I really wanted to see it but I decided I didn't really REALLY want to go all the way across London. :( It only runs til September so I'll probably miss it but tomorrow I'm moving from morning til after the theatre so decided to stuff it . . . As I was walking back down Elystan Street to the hotel I saw two super cars driving up the street towards me - each parking on opposite sides of the road in front of a restaurant -- from a distance I wasn't sure but one looked like a Lamborghini, maybe a Huracán . . . but there was no mistaking the other car -- a McLaren! (for non-car-people that is a big deal ;) ) When I got nearer - yes it was a McLaren, with Ayrton Senna's signature on the side. A https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1bf0e7a8d2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb6892c908.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e6c95c817.jpg Ayrton Senna's signature on the door panel https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...328ada49bc.jpg What is wrong with me (?!) - no photos of Donatello and a whole album of cars :D Anyway -- back to the Hotel and up on the roof terrace - ordered a Pimm's and caught up on e-mail and phone messages. Next Monday May 22 - David Hockney, Lunch in the Coal Yards, Dogs @ The Wallace Collection and Jersey Boys. |
I'm really enjoying your report. That Elystan Street meal looks fabulous!
|
JJ, your take it easy day is something that we all need to be reminded of. Maybe as much-younger travelers we were capable of the go-go-go approach, but nowadays we best observe the need when to downgear. Good for you.
Speaking of gears---that McLaren! Our neighbors out back were car fanatics who named their son 'Ayrton' in honor of. They were an interesting family who chose to live down in Nicaragua while renting out their house here in Toronto. Your striking asparagus foto is very well-done. I am done. the londun |
If you google the number plate you can discover a bit more about the vehicle and even report it for bad driving to other aficionados
|
We had the same browsing issue on Sunday at Liberty...I didn't get my candles at no charge when the till opened, so well done (twice).
My husband had a great time spotting all the Ferraris, McLarens and the like around our area while we were there. There were some insanely expensive and remarkable vehicles. |
It sounds lovely, and your accommodation choices so far both look amazing.
|
Cars.
In Chipping Campden a year ago, we chanced across a wedding spilling out of the smaller of the 2 churches, i.e. the Catholic one. Whoever was getting wed then must've been hella-wealthy. There were 2 gift-wrapped cars out front: an orange McLaren and a white Rolls. The local seniors shuttle 'Green Tortoise' was blocked by that pair of luxe vehicles. Funny to see that juxtaposition. JJ, what's next? I am done. the ribbons |
Thanks everyone. Will try to finish up this weekend??
Monday May 22 - David Hockney, Lunch in the Coal Yards, Dogs @ The Wallace Collection and Jersey Boys. Have a 10:30 booking for the immersive show David Hockney Bigger & Closer (not smaller & further away) at the Lightroom in the Coal Drops Yard in Kings Cross and later a 2:15 ticket for Portraits of Dogs: From Gainsborough to Hockney at the Wallace Collection. Thought I might have lunch at the Wallace Collection so didn't want a big breakfast. Took the tube up to Kings Cross and just had a croissant and tea at Le Pain Quotidien in St Pancras and headed up into the Coal Drops development.From the program blurb the show was over three years in the making, features 1,408 speakers, 28 projectors and a digital canvas size of approximately 108m pixels. Tech specs aside -- wow - just WOW! Hockney narrates much of the show and it covers his entire career from the 60's up to works created for this show. The entire running take about an hour but it loops continuously. It opens at 10AM and was not at al crowded when I arrived (note to anyone wanting to visit - I'd probably book for 10 or 10:30 AM or in the evening -- it is open late. I was able to get a seat on one of the cubes on the floor but by the time I left just before noon the entire floor was packed and the standing-room balconies were quite crowded. Standing through the entire show wouldn't have been that great) It really envelops you and I took a fair amount of video which I may or may not figure out how to post them. Here are (a lot) of random stills: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ced3195d9c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98e592bed4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e058d92b55.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52e75f8709.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28dd637a79.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ddbdb14a16.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30f66f66dd.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d97286ba8.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...def9068536.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f22e67f1ef.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56f99684f2.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbe2b89ef8.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d0e2a7dcc.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...313d157902.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0abc349984.jpg |
I really loved the show and have been a huge Hockney enthusiast since I was in art school in the mid 70’s. His colors, his sense of whimsy and they way he views the world is just so wonderful. I saw a big retrospective in Bilbao years ago and this was very fun-to be immersed and surrounded by his art with the artist narrating. My only regret is that we went the first morning after we arrived and I was still jet lagged and exhausted. We walked from Convent Garden and that was interesting. I hope it comes to Calif and I would love to see it again. It was very crowded when we got there around 11. Had to wait for seating for the first 10 or 15 minutes. Your second show about dogs sounds interesting!
|
Afterwards I wandered through the general Coal Drops area and along the canal for maybe 30 minutes then started to head back through Granary Square towards the station.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd0da405ab.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b02b3884f6.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e950c89475.jpg Lots of restaurants -- didn't realize there is a Dishoon here now. Next time . . . Reading the menus outside a few places - the Granary Sq Brasserie seemed to have a good selection but I chose it mostly for the attractive/comfy looking outdoor seating. I had no idea it was a member of the ever growing group of Ivy restaurants - should have known when the wine list was headed by 'The Ivy Collection Champagne'. Lordy - there must be at least 15 'Ivy's' just in London and several others up and down the country . . . (just went and counted -- 16 in greater London and 25 others in Eng/Scot/Wales/Ire.) Anyway - Ivy's and offshoots are generally reliable so I didn't pick wrong. Had a glass of said Champagne and a really good duck liver parfait with caramelized hazelnuts, apricot chutney, brioche, which was quite a generous serving so decided instead of a main course to have another starter -- tempura prawns. Both were good and together made for a substantial-ish lunch. From Kings Cross I took the tube 'backwards' to Farringdon and caught the Elizabeth Line to Bond Street (Bond Street wasn't yet open when I was there in December -- it is massive). Walked through Selfridges and up to Manchester Square/the Wallace. Now -- the Guardian hadn't liked the show one little bit - gave it a 1 star rating and even used the s#it word . . . I think their art critic must really hate Edwin Landseer LOL. The Telegraph gave it 5 stars (I wouldn't go quite that far but would give it a strong 4 stars). The title is a bit misleading since it really runs from a Roman sculpture, to Da Vinci drawings to Gainsborough - and yes - the hated Landseer, to Lucien Freud and finally Hockney's adorable dachshunds, Stanley and Boogie. Was a nice exhibition and I did really enjoy it - must not be as refined as Guardian readers ;) Went back to the hotel to change and had tea up on the roof terrace -- it really has been lovely weather. Definitely not hot and cloudy a few days but never even hinted at rain. Even late evenings I was fine in a light cardigan. Headed out to Embankment and stopped in Gordon's Wine Bar -- was early enough they weren't booked up. Wasn't famish but wanted something - so had olives, a small cheese board with just brie and schlossberger, some smoked salmon and a glass of Riesling. From there its a short walk over to the Trafalgar Theatre in Whitehall. Jersey Boys has been running with one cast or another for years but I'd never seen it. What a fun musical. The current cast is talented and their harmonies were terrific. Best of the bunch was probably Peter Nash - Tommy DeVito - who was a real standout. Luke Suri - Frankie Valli - was fine but when singing solo he didn't really have the Valli falsetto down. Singing with the other guys he seemed to nail the high register better -- maybe singing it in harmony with the others is easier??? Anyway -- when the four of them were singing together - closing one's eyes it really did sound like Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. The whole ensemble was good though. Remarkable the number of major hits they had -- forty top 40's by the group and at least ten during his solo career. Back to the hotel and another good night's sleep. Next: Tuesday May 23 - Chelsea Flower Show including Brunch in the on-site Champagne & Seafood Restaurant then out to LHR |
macdogmom: Just saw your post -- wasn't it great!
(I'm maybe going to ask the moderators to edit out your full quote of my post -- this thing is getting loooooong enough without having to wade through it twice ;) ) |
Originally Posted by janisj
(Post 17468742)
macdogmom: Just saw your post -- wasn't it great!
(I'm maybe going to ask the moderators to edit out your full quote of my post -- this thing is getting loooooong enough without having to wade through it twice ;) ) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4edcfff5f.jpeg I love this one showing the artist at work! |
I haven't found a way to post my videos -- if they were on YoutTube or some other platform it works but not from my phone or laptop :(
Tuesday May 23 - Chelsea Flower Show including Brunch in the on-site Champagne & Seafood Restaurant then out to LHR Today will be text light and photo heavy because I really only did one thing attend the Chelsea Flower Show - well plus checking out, having brunch on the show grounds, and heading out to the HI Express at LHR T4 I checked out a little after 8:00, left my bag and had a couple of cups of tea in the Lounge. The hotel is only a 10 minute walk to the show grounds yet none of the staff knew where it was (I did say they all seemed to be Italians ;) ) . In the 15 or 20 minutes I sat in the Lounge with my tea, three different individuals/couples came down and on their way out asked the front desk how to get there. Each time he called to me to give the directions - like I was a native or sump'in :) The show runs from 0800 til 2000 so I was in no real hurry but I did want to arrive between 8:30 and 9 since later in the morning the crowds really grow. Tickets are for all day or 3PM til closing - my last visit all I could book was 3PM (yes -- slots totally sell out). While there are many places to eat and drink scattered all over the 70 acres (heck - just the marquee is 8+ acres) the crowds means there are queues (especially at the many Pimm's kiosks) everywhere and food does run low later in the day. So I decided to pre-book brunch or lunch in one of the higher end on-site restaurants so I wouldn't have to worry about it. Ended up booking 11AM brunch at the Champagne & Seafood Restaurant. Good decision :) Spent all day wandering around the show so I'll cover brunch with a couple of pix and then just post a LOT of photos from around the show. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4765e7ac9c.jpg Amuse-bouche Spinach, heirloom tomato and Tunworth rerebit (more the size of a full on starter but they called it an amuse-bouche so who am I to argue) . . . and Champagne of course https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f84eb956a.jpg Smoked salmon, Sussex cream cheese, teeny tiny quail eggs, on toasted hemp seed bread - so pretty and VERY good. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...913960518a.jpg Not Brunch LOL - this is how a whole lot of attendees eat lunch https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...996114ebe0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fef32f826d.jpg And an idea of the crowds at 1PM https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5fac3d39f9.jpg Guide map of the show Now . . . flowers flowers flowers (plus a tiny handful of the hundreds of vendors) - didn't take many photos of the show gardens because the crowds were so thick: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00e879c723.jpg I love allium but they don't do well where I live - too hot. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44692b0f05.jpg Who knew there were so many colors/colours of calla lily?? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abd54bf2c4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...beae10d3a1.jpg Daffy's are such 'happy' flowers https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04cc51dff1.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b9a1bd09c.jpg Fuchsias https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...715d0d904a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecb10d9d35.jpg Chelsea Pensioners enjoying the attention. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11f92b6c88.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a16d339d16.jpg Mums https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da6053870c.jpg Roses for miles https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfac617c73.jpg Absolutely intoxicating https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84c0cef96c.jpg Tulips https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8156b2cd85.jpg and more tulips https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e722f811f0.jpg This won only a silver-gilt award but I loved it https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2bd7d76887.jpg A topiary designer had this tribute to the Queen in his very large display. Her groom and horse as they were when the cortège passed at Windsor. And a corgy thrown in for good measure. The groom is a friend of this vendor and he was making the rounds of the show attracting quite a bit of attention. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5faf4bfcbf.jpg I WANT some driftwood meerkats in my garden LOL https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d791e4237.jpg These were large water features -- each tree is a fountain and they were selling like hotcakes . . . EXPENSIVE https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba7749306f.jpg Fancy some cattails in your suburban garden? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f375b2a81e.jpg Even MORE expensive -- need a small garden artwork?? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e51fc6434.jpg |
Janisj, next time you are in Coal Drops Yard, go to Coal Office; it is wonderful. From the same people as the Palomar. Sit outside on a sunny day.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:53 AM. |