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Five Days on Paros
This report is part of 37 days we spent in Europe (Greece, Italy, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia between September 5-October 12). We initially booked, with credit card miles, flights in and out of Athens without any fixed itinerary. Then, we were invited to a family grape harvest in Sicily. Eventually, Athens airport became our base, and we went through there seven times. This created an opportunity for multiple distinct trips. This is one of them.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58f728a9d.jpeg Paros The first week of our fall trip was part of a wedding gift to our daughter and her new husband. They had only one week available, including travel time, so we decided to make the island of Paros our base. Inspiration for our time in Paros came in parHeimdall travelerjan . Thanks again for that. We experienced perfect weather, sunny in the low 80’s, if you don’t count very strong winds as a negative. Very strong winds. We had considered a one-day (extended into evening) ferry trip to Mykonos, but gave up, fearing strong winds could impact ferry schedules. And, they did, the first couple of days we were there. Our daughter arrived the day before us, and they spent that day in Athens, where we had been twice before. On Monday September 5, our daughter flew to Paros, and we followed up in the afternoon on a small Olympic Air (Aegean) prop plane. Friendly staff and cookies for the less than an hour flight. We rented a 2BR, 2BA condo, about a 10-minute walk from the village. We picked the main town of Parikia for our base, given that it is a convenient ferry port town and has lots of shops, restaurants and bars. Although we rented a car to do a one-day tour of the island during our stay there, we used our feet, buses, taxis and ferries to get around. Paros is in the Aegean Sea, about 135 miles southeast of Athens. It is part of the Cyclades island group. This report of each day will be largely photos. It will include the communities of Parikia, Naousa, Aliki, and Lefkes, all on Paros island. We also had short visits to Antiparos and Naxos islands. |
CAN't wait to read it !! Have a dear friend coming from Hawaii in September -- already (way back in 2011) traveled w me thru Crete, Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio ... now wants help in planning more islands, solo. Likes classes in food & crafts -- so among choices I'm thinking Paros/Antiparos. So your report can be helpful! Keep it coming!
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I love your photos and I am very interested in your Paros report. Last May we visited Santorini, Naxos, Nafplion and Athens with the help of Heimdall and Travelerjan. I had initially seriously considered Paros and Antiparos as well, but decided to substitute Nafplion for Paros, which we of course loved. But I am still interested in visiting Paros and Antiparos some day. BTW, Nafplion was filled with bougainvillea too! So pretty!
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I’m following your trip report too, and also love your photos. If you think the Paros Airport is tiny, you should see the one at Naxos! 😉
The new Paros Airport was completed in 2016, and the terminal building is only temporary. Funds for the new airport covered only the 1400 meter runway and taxiways, but not for a terminal building, and Aegean Airlines/Olympic Air funded the temporary terminal so the airport could open. Plans have already been approved to extend the runway to 1800 meters, which will allow jets and international flights to operate from Paros Airport. Together with that will be a new, much larger terminal building. You can see the CGI images of the new terminal building here: https://www.ebarchitects.eu/work/paros-airport-terminal There are mixed feelings on Paros and Antiparos about the larger airport, partly because some people feel island infrastructure should be improved first. So far, thankfully, it doesn’t look like Paros will become another package holiday island, and in fact there are many high value villas being built on both Paros and Antiparos. |
KarenWoo Thanks. Good to hear from you again. A few weeks after Paros, when we returned from Sicily, on this admittedly crazy trip, we managed a couple days in Nafplio, and it was fabulous. Weather perfect in early October and nobody there. We also spent a couple of days in Meteora, one of the most awesome places we have visited anywhere.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54f68f216.jpeg Nafplio https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af7d5b271.jpeg Bougainvillea in Nafplio https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd5e2bae7.jpeg Monasteries atop Meteora |
Thanks, travelerjan as you probably know better than me, trying to get to multiple islands, without a boat, is quite a challenge. We have wanted to return to Corfu, for example, having visited there only by cruise ship, but it does not work well with many of the other islands we have wanted to see. As I will note, Paros was better for our situation than extremely quiet Antiparos. We also experienced very high winds that severely impacted boat trips while we were there, including even the huge ferries.
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Heimdall Wowza on the proposed terminal for Paros. But we are happy to have been there "before". We liked the current vibe and can only see more significant development following such a large and gorgeous structure.We hadn't followed very closely Greece's climb from the economic basement, but our little time on the Greek mainland convinced us that things were definitely better. And, then we saw a CNN report from Davos, Switzerland, over the week-end that included a discussion of that seemingly miraculous rebound. Thanks for sharing.
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Hi, can you share your trip to Meteora? I am traveling to Greece this May - first to Thessloniki, then meeting my husband in Athens. I really want him to see Meteora- I’ve been previously. We are thinking of taking a two day bus tour from Athens before we take off for the Islands.
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Whitehall, I took the same photo you took, the one labeled “bougainvillea in Nafplio”! Our hotel, Pension Omorfi Poli, is close by.
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Whitehall thank you for the photo of the walkway around the base of the Nafplio "point" ... I take that photo on each trip. Do people also know about the great little swim-spot along that path? It's called ? Le Ban >- was the town's "pool" back in the day -- just a pier, with seating, and chained-off sea area ... AND a cafe serving drinks in season. SO Handy, for those without a car ... or who don't want the hike to Arvanita.
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uppsala30 Give me until next week, and I will try to do a brief, but separate, trip report on a new thread to highlight Meteora with lots of photos.
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Day Two: Paros
We spent more time discovering the Paros port area early in the day and toward evening. It’s both a tourist waterfront and a working waterfront.
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Day Two: Antiparos
Some of the smaller excursion boats cancelled trips to Antiparos due to the strong winds, and perhaps this was one of the reasons the nearby island seemed eerily quiet. We took a bus toward the airport, where there is a car ferry with its very short connection to Antiparos. We had considered basing here, and if you just want to hunker down, it’s quite a beautiful spot. That’s why Tom Hanks has summered there for many years and why he gets such recent visitors as Jeff Bezos, Anderson Cooper and the Greek Prime Minister. But, for us, the towns the island of Paros and the port connection would have been more difficult from there.
All we saw was the main town of Antiparos. The hills around it, and the many villas, looked a lot like Paros, except a bit more rural. The small streets, again loaded with colorful bougainvillea, had many inviting shops and restaurants. We had expected early September to be busier. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c38062b2b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ab8e8553.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a307f856.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1eeb9df9.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cd31dbcf.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cadff0ada.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dedf207da.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fa876f5e.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f22234d6a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e65002f8.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73f0cb387.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e650a3c78.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38441f060.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60bc14333.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ad0c9ab5.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08e6339eb.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c577b0cca.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4da39d93e.jpeg |
You're pictures are making me "homesick" for Greece! I was there (Paros, Antiparos, Athens & Nafplio) last summer and fell even more deeply in love with the country after my first visit in 2019. Although I won't get there this year, I can't wait to go back.
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Love your photos of Antiparos! Are the photos of the cafes with bougainvillea right by the water? Would you describe Antiparos as a place where you have ample opportunity to relax in fishing villages and have fresh seafood sitting by the water? Our favorite day in Naxos is when we rented a car and ended up in the fishing village of Moutsounas (by accident) having the best meal of our trip (fresh seafood) sitting a foot from the Aegean. If we return to Greece, I know this is what my husband wants to experience for a large part of the trip!:) We were actually disappointed in some of the meat dishes we had in Greece but we loved the fresh seafood and the ambiance of the fishing villages.
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if you were in Antiparos Town during the afternoon but didn’t stay until evening I can understand why it was quiet, because everyone is at the beaches. In the evening the town comes to life, and many people walk across town to Seifnikos Beach to watch the sunset, then go back into town for drinks and dinner. It doesn’t get busy in town until around 9 pm. The night owls go up to the square where several small nightclubs start getting busy around midnight. That’s why I always recommend day trippers stay until evening.
Antiparos has a short, but intense summer season. June and September are just about perfect, but August is anything but quiet on Antiparos. July, sometimes called Norwegian month, is also busy. I’ve often gone at the end of August when people are beginning to leave for home, but in the middle of August the pedestrian street is so jammed that people walk shoulder to shoulder. I’ve never seen anything like it except Oia on Santorini when the cruise ships are in. |
KarenWoo, there aren’t really any fishing villages on Antiparos, but Captain Pipinos Taverna in Agios Georgios sits on the water, and serves fish caught that day. You can see it in the short documentary made by the Antiparos islanders in 2014. The video is nearly 10 years old now, but shows how busy Antiparos gets in the evenings. It also show some of the southern end of Antiparos, the most beautiful part of the island.
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Heimdall Appreciate the video. That is what we all dream about when we think Greek islands. Not sure everyone was at the beach that day, since the winds were keeping people off most of the beaches. Maybe just a day to stay home. No complaints; it's always great for a tourist to "have the place to ourselves." Just a bit surprised, but we do know that places like this can come alive in the evening. We will have to return.
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That video is lovely, it should be noted that it is very likely done in High Season (July-August) when the cafes & beaches are at their busiest - especially in the "agora" (market street) winding thru the port town ... In May/Early June or Early Sept onward, its pleasantly populated but lower-key.
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The video was done over several days, but would have been in July. That’s when the cross channel swim has traditionally taken place. Whitehall, when the winds are strong on Antiparos many people head for the southern beaches that are sheltered from the Meltemi. That would be Soros, Agios Georgios, Faneromeni, etc.
My favourite beach when winds are strong is Panagia, which is about 20 minutes walk on a rough path from Psaraliki II Beach or along the road to Agios Georgios. The beach is completely unorganised, but has mature tamarisk trees for shade, and a stone wall that acts as a wind break. This is one of the most beautiful beaches within walking distance of town. https://antiparos.com/explore/panagia-beach/ |
Day Two: Naousa
On Paros island, the prime alternative to staying in the port town of Paros, is the town of Naousa. It is about half an hour away. We took a bus there, We visited twice (the second time by car), the first time at night when the place really comes alive. Although we felt it was not as convenient if you want to move about, the night life was more active, the restaurants a bit more posh and a little pricier and the place seemed a bit more trendy. We were still having a lot of Covid anxiety then, and some of the dining tables along the waterfront were packed like sardines. And, unlike Paros itself, many restaurant employees were pushy to get you seated.
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Day Three: Alyki
Time for an inexpensive local car rental and a tour of the island’s roads. First stop was laid back beach town Alyki. Winds beginning to subside a little.
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Where would the least touristy place to stay be on the island for late Sept/early Oct. but still have decent selection of shops, markets and tavernas?
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I again will defer to Heimdall for the best answer. We were there in early September, and, except for the port area of Paros and some of the restaurants in Naousa, we didn't feel overwhelmed with tourists. In fact, just the opposite. But, if you want to simply hunker down in one place, and have no need to visit other islands, Antiparos might be your perfect spot.
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Crazyh, if you mean the island of Paros, think about Piso Livadi. Parikia, of course, is more the working town you seem to prefer, and will be quiet by October. If you mean Antiparos, it gets very sleepy from the 1st of October, but many repeat visitors who have friends on the island come then, and they even join in, by invitation, with the harvest and tspouro making.
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Day Three: Lefkai
A dozen or so miles from Paros town, away from the sea, up in the hills is picture perfect Lefkai. A great stop-ver for a walk on the narrow passageways of the town and for lunch, swordfish, sausage and chicken. Looked like a lot of interesting trails for ambitious hikers nearby.
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Originally Posted by Heimdall
(Post 17433139)
Crazyh, if you mean the island of Paros, think about Piso Livadi. Parikia, of course, is more the working town you seem to prefer, and will be quiet by October. If you mean Antiparos, it gets very sleepy from the 1st of October, but many repeat visitors who have friends on the island come then, and they even join in, by invitation, with the harvest and tspouro making.
Having traveled to Greece in early October many times I found most islands even the "Big Name" ones tend to be quieter. Also had Paros in mind many times but never got around to it. Possibly thinking about it this October and I know you are very knowledgeable about the island so appreciate your thoughts. I wouldn't think Parikia would be crowded but Greek Islands gain in popularity every year so who knows what this year will bring even in October. |
I think it’s fair to say that Paros will be busier this October than in past years, but the island has enough villages scattered around to absorb any additional visitors. If you want to stay somewhere traditional, also take a look at Prodromos and Marpissa, not far from Piso Livadi and at the end of the Byzantine path from Lefkes.
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Originally Posted by Heimdall
(Post 17433188)
I think it’s fair to say that Paros will be busier this October than in past years, but the island has enough villages scattered around to absorb any additional visitors. If you want to stay somewhere traditional, also take a look at Prodromos and Marpissa, not far from Piso Livadi and at the end of the Byzantine path from Lefkes.
Thanks! |
Day Three: Moraitis Winery, Outside Naousa
Paros, like many Cyclades islands in Greece, is quite arid. This translates to very few locally grown fruits and vegetables. So, it was a bit of a surprise to find a rather sophisticated looking winery outside of Naousa. There were a few grape vines in the limited space that this suburban-type area afforded (with more concrete than agriculture), and they didn’t look healthy. We saw a scattering of other grape vines throughout the island, but none looked particularly vibrant. However, Moraitis claimed all their grape varieties, used in most of their wines, come from Paros. We dropped in and were told we couldn’t tour the facility without a prior reservation, but we did manage a tasting in a quiet inside area of their elegant stone building. We enjoyed the wines
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Day Three: Daylight in Naousa & Late day back to Parikia
One clarification: Although some refer to the port town in Paros as "Paros Town", as I have, it is probably better known as Parikia. It is also sometimes referred to as Hora, or main town, not to be confused with other Horas on other islands. From hereon, I will refer to Paros Town, where we are staying, as Parikia.
The end of our car trip included a daylight look at Naousa and some very tasty cocktails that didn't seem to affect the drive back. The mugs contained “prickly pear zombies” (the menu says it was a blend of four rums, an added overproof rum, apricot, spices, prickly pear, absinthe, and lime oleo saccharin, which I learned is a few hours of lime peels and sugar marinating to create a syrup.) An evening walk back “home” in Parikia ended our day. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...675fc6ad6.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06f750a7d.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1bda353d2.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6975ab46a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afb3b571f.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ff440897.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7ad09b69.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...005c7fb2a.jpeg Parikia https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a8175377.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ea560d60.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35581895f.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdc7a63ec.jpeg |
I don’t know if the link will work, but here is the new cover photo of Facebook group Visit Antiparos Out of Season. Paros and Antiparos are green in the winter, and covered with wildflowers in spring. That’s why they can grow grapes on Paros.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/5458...9936153265952/ |
Originally Posted by Heimdall
(Post 17433503)
I don’t know if the link will work, but here is the new cover photo of Facebook group Visit Antiparos Out of Season. Paros and Antiparos are green in the winter, and covered with wildflowers in spring. That’s why they can grow grapes on Paros.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/5458...9936153265952/ |
Day Four: Ferry to Naxos
The ferries that operate to and between the islands are not as massive as cruise ships, but they are still quite large. One after another at the port and on the sea. Since winds lessened, we lined up for one of those big, crowded ships to take a peek at Naxos. There were huge public areas, with all kinds of seating, inside and out, making it feel less crowded. But we were extremely Covid-sensitive last September, and not the best place to be when passengers embarked and disembarked.
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Whitehall, I’m glad you liked that photo of Antiparos when it’s green. The photographer, Yannis, who owns ThalaSea Studios, also has a farm in the hills, and has fruit trees, grapes, and all sorts of vegetables. If you go on the actual FB group “Visit Antiparos Out of Season” and scroll back to last August you will see photos of bins full of grapes ready to go to Paros to be crushed. Scroll further back (it’s a small group so won’t take long) to March and April 2022 you will see stunning photos of fields filled with wild flowers. There are even photos from last January when the two islands were covered with snow.
The Facebook group is public, but the posts are distinctly local. You will see photos on the website of people enjoying themselves when the tourists are gone, and a completely different aspect of life in the Cyclades Islands. |
Originally Posted by Heimdall
(Post 17433651)
Whitehall, I’m glad you liked that photo of Antiparos when it’s green. The photographer, Yannis, who owns ThalaSea Studios, also has a farm in the hills, and has fruit trees, grapes, and all sorts of vegetables. If you go on the actual FB group “Visit Antiparos Out of Season” and scroll back to last August you will see photos of bins full of grapes ready to go to Paros to be crushed. Scroll further back (it’s a small group so won’t take long) to March and April 2022 you will see stunning photos of fields filled with wild flowers. There are even photos from last January when the two islands were covered with snow.
The Facebook group is public, but the posts are distinctly local. You will see photos on the website of people enjoying themselves when the tourists are gone, and a completely different aspect of life in the Cyclades Islands. |
Day Four: Naxos
Our partial day was hardly enough time to get a feel of gorgeous Naxos. It is obvious that there is much to do and see on this whitewashed island. Unfortunately, we didn’t have an extra five days to explore the island’s several villages or many beaches. We got a quick taste and all we can do is provide this quick look at the Hora or main town of Naxos.
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I love all of your photos. You have a good eye for composition and detail. Love that Greek salad! I am sure I would love Paros. My husband doesn't want to return to Greece in the near future because he wants to see countries we have not been to yet. I understand his point of view. I hope we stay healthy and able-bodied long enough so we can return to Greece in the next 5 years or so and visit new places, such as Paros and Antiparos.
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