Melissa, we are waiting for the rest of your trip. A really good report.

Melissa,

Great report!

What did you end up doing about dinner reservations? Did you have your hotel make reservations for you? Did you contact them before you arrived, or were reservations made after your arrival sufficient? Did you tip the concierge? I'm particularly interested in reservations at Bellecour

Thanks.

Elle! As the owner of a fiendish cat, I had to laugh out loud when I read your description of the expresso machine fiasco!

Am picturing the whole scenario as I drink my morning tea, chuckling, with a speculative eye on my own cat, a "waif" naively rescued from impending euthanasia at the pound.

For all the times he's attacked my ankles, darting out a slashing paw from his lair beneath the bed, a faulty expresso machine may be the perfect instrument of revenge.

rosalicious: yes, i emailed the hotel our dinner reservations in the most gracious language i could muster! and in a day or two the list came back, all three nights at 8pm (i had said 7:30 - 9:30pm in the request). le bellecour was our favorite dinnner, but was the only place where there was a question about the reservation. after some conferring in the kitchen, we were seated - and everyone involved was lovely. however, i still don't know if they had the reservation or not, and saw another couple being turned away later. the place is tiny. at le coude fou and ptit pontoise is was obvious they had the reservation. and, no, i'm bad, i didn't tip anyone at the hotel. we saw up to four different people at the desk, two being the father and son owners, so i didn't know who to tip. but we did leave a tip and extra metro tickets for the chambermaid!

DAY 4 - in which DH gets sick and i meet my pretend french boyfriend, laurent!

Last day . . . and it started out sunny so we dashed to Ste. Chappelle stopping for cafe at a tourist trap near Notre Dame, the Quasimodo - and it was sub-par. Regardless, made it to Ste. Chappelle for some sunlight and glorious photo ops. After some bus confusion, we ended up walking to Le Bon Marche. Wandered around, didn't buy anything, but laughed at the few dogs we saw inside waiting for their owners to try on shoes.

Afterward, we kept thinking we'd see some fabulous place for lunch, but didn't, so went to Le Deux Magots. I liked the decor at Cafe Flore better, but my husband liked this one. Another omelette mixed for me and croque madame for him. And wine and cafe. Successfully shopped at Du Pareil Au Meme for our daughter. It's fabulous! Great European-looking clothes at good prices, though kids clothes are always cheaper. Still, where is that for women? I did discover the "para-pharmacie" which sells upscale french brands - DeCleor, etc. - for less than the U.S.

We also found the Cour de Rohan listed in some of the guidebooks (though the entrance says "privee," it was open and we walked through). Pretty, and little changed from long ago. Also took in the "Ancient Cloiter" beside Notre Dame which Fodor's raves about. The home of Heloise and Abelard!

Crossed over to Ile St.-Louis in search of Berthillion, but it was closed (Monday). We could have had their ice cream at any number of other places, but it was cold and not really a day for that.

By this time, DH is started to feel tres mal. Back in the Marais, we try the tea shop Le Loir dans le Thiere (sp?). He has herb tea while I have regular and a large piece of gateux d'orange - yummy! But, the tea does not help hubby's stomach.

After a rest at the hotel, we decide to go out locally so I can get one last dinner in Paris. Stop in Les Philosophes, a nearby cafe. DH takes one whiff and has to leave. I decide to stay and eat on my own. I pretend I'm in Paris on my own (which would be fun!), though I lack a journal or book. I wait, and wait, and watch this older man waiter serve all the tables around me. And then, he appears, Laurent. 8-} Oh my. He's young, dark-haired, extremely handsome, and does that thing of looking deep into your eyes even when you're just ordering a glass of wine and salade. Just what I need to think about my last night there! We go on to exchange glances, and I do well with my French, but we only speak of "une autre vin" and "l'addition." though he does the look thing each time. Swoon!

However, I return to my stricken loved one. He's better in the morning, and PariShuttle picks us up right on time.

Terminal E at CDG is beautiful, but we have to take the bus a loooooong way to the plane, and end up leaving almost an hour late. Au Revior, Paris!

Gotta run, now, but I'll post a few reflections a bit later.

Where is Melissa? Jet lag finally catch up with her?

I am so impressed that you mastered the bus system on your first trip. I've never figured it out and so spend far too much time traveling underground (but then I don't know the bus system, here, either) or too much money on taxis.

Croque M--I have one of those evil beings, too! I once woke up to find that my earlobe had been pierced during the night. But when he's not being a lunatic, he's quite the snuggler.

ah--there she is.

Most satisfying and most intriguing. I've never been to Les Philosophes, but I feel like I know Laurent! Nothing like a French waiter to make a woman feel beautiful. . .

I enjoyed reading your report very much Melissa -- I'm glad you enjoyed your first trip to Paris -- sounds like an absolutely fabulous time:)

Thank you!

no, not jet lag. just the circus yesterday morning, after which i was wiped out from all this freakin' pollen. i've had laryngitis for two days!

back to paris . . .

just wanted to say a few things about the weather in case anyone is curious. it was hot the first day, and we neglected to switch our coats for our jackets. after the Louvre, we went in to La Samarataine for some relief - not! do parisien dept. stores even have a/c? the next few days, however, were much more variable. cool and rather windy during the day, with on and off rain and sun. and generally much cooler at night.

about the perceived french "rudeness," we noticed nothing. sure, the waiters weren't overly friendly (except Laurent!), but we can't exactly converse with them. they were polite, available, and happy to fulfill our reasonable requests. compared to the horrible, sullen service in most places in the U.S., it was a pleasure. i'm making more of an effort to say good morning, goodbye, or whatever.

shoes: everyone was in sneakers!! not real running shoes, but those fancy track shoes that are out now. they were everywhere, even on women in nice trousers. oh, and converse all-stars were big, too. wish i'd had mine!

i asked in another thread about comparing paris to nyc. since a lot of people said "go and see for yourself," i'll try to pull that up and give my impressions there.

wishing i could go back right now . . .

forgot . . . the buses. it really was easy to figure out, plus, we had a major thoroughfare (rue de rivoli) just outside our door. i would check the metro, but the bus system was more likely to get us to where we wanted to go without ever having to change. i wanted to take the 69 bus all the way to the eiffel tower (in the daytime) and back, but never got around to it.

Ah, Melissa, what a wonderful report!! I'm very impressed the way you & DH negotiated Paris your 1st trip.

I hope there's more???? :D

thanks, beatchick!

no more for this trip, unfortunately. though we are both looking forward to going back. even DH who was quite nervous about the whole thing in the first place!

just can't get as excited about our family trip to illinois this summer . . .

melissa, great report!!! I'm sorry I missed you guys for wine. We ended up being in the Miro exhibit until 7pm!! But we had planned to go and were having trouble finding the street on our map. Out of curiosity what was it near??

Sounds like you had a fantastic time! Bravo!!! :)

Melissa I LOVED your report. We are an older couple who visited Paris 2 years ago on a tour with a lot of people we know. Although it was great it was too hectic, off to 2 other cities all in a week.I don't like tours being guided around and fed lots of facts and dates and stuff I forget as soon as I am told it. But they are convenient for the arrangements and such.My favorite part of our trip was the free day where we ducked into sidewalk cafes and drank wine or expresso.
I also am into Modern art too and loved Le Pompedou...(Did you see the video of the man standing on a hill screaming?Was it still there ? I think I could make money doing that !!!) my daughter advised "Mom skip the Louve, I know you and it's too crowded." So with only 3 days I was glad to take her advice. We mastered the subway and climbed the Eifel, and wandered ourselves a bit.
So, as an older couple ,newlyweds, so into romance, please advise where to begin to plan this. DH is a little nervous, but I want the romance, kind of like the "European Joe Millionaire" dates where the cowboy took each girl to a cute little bistro (LOL !!) Am I asking too much ?

OH Melissa, I forgot to say I loved your report about Laurent. Been there!

stormygirl: so sorry you couldn't make it to le dernier goutte. we enjoyed lots of champagne! without a map, i think it was near rue buci(?) maybe. definitely between rue st. germaine and the seine. maybe next time!

toppy: are you planning another trip to paris? i did tons of overplanning and we ended up with a list of sites we'd like to see, but didn't make a push for all of them. i researched a bunch of restaurants (here and in guidebooks) and came up with three dinner reservations. that worked well since, when we were in the thick of things, i didn't much feel like pouring over my notes or books - hence our rather uninspired lunches.

i would say, make plans and do your homework, but be prepared to just go with the flow.

Thanks Melissa. I've been away from the computer, just returned from MS and am glad you responded. Yes I want to plan another trip and would appreciate any suggestions on hotels and restaurents. Did you make reservations from home for the restaurents? And where oh where is Laurent....? How fun.

So glad that I can wear my Pumas in Paris! I love comfort when traveling - at home I dress very fashionably but when traveling - that is a different story.

toppy: we loved the caron de beaumarchais. requested and got a room on the top floor with a small balcony. they also have a/c which we used at night so we could close the windows to avoid street noise. it didn't make the room too cold though, so i wouldn't count on it in a heat wave.

i emailed the hotel my dinner reservation requests and they made them for me. i also saw them making reservations for guests on the same day, so advance reservations aren't always necessary.

and laurent was right down the street at les philosophes! too bad we didn't go there earlier . . .

Thanks Melissa. I must say your trip report was excellent, delightfully written, and it has motivated me to start planning.