First time in Italy - Trip report part 1
 

I returned from my first trip to Italy earlier this month, and am finally organizing my thoughts enough to do a trip report.

First some intro: This was a family trip that included myself, my husband, and my mother for the first part (traveling from Salt Lake City, Ut.); we were later joined by my sister and brother-in-law (from Missoula, Montana). This was our first time in Italy...We were excited to see as much as possible, but also wanted to experience the ambience and culture. We had a total of 16 days, not counting travel days to and from. Our somewhat illogical itinerary resulted from the fact that we had a week at a house in Tuscany that we could only check in at on Saturday, so put this at the end of the trip. We spent minimal time planning and finding meals, so this will not be helpful for those of you who enjoy hunting for wonderful eateries...We did conclude, however, that there seems to be NO bad food in Italy! I would describe our budget as quite moderate...airfare plus about $1000 per person for all lodging, trains, & car rental for a week of our stay.

DAY 1 - THURSDAY - Flight from SLC arriving in Florence on day 2 at 11 a.m. We changed planes in Milan which was quite horrible...later learned from our Italian friends that the Malpensa Airport is named after the area of Malpensa, which roughly translates to "bad thought." Hence, the airport is considered to generally embody a "bad idea," and everyone in the know avoids it! Anyway, all arriving flights were channeled into a tiny area with 3 operating security gates...There were s-type gates (like at Disneyland) but even little old ladies were climbing over or ducking under them with abandon. It was a bit of a scary crowd scene...and even stranger to learn that this is a daily occurence. We had 2 hours to get to our next flight that left at 10:10, and we boarded at 10:15. Apparently many of the flights waited for passengers, but there was no indication of this, as all flights were listed as departing "on time."

Tip of the day: Avoid changing planes in Milan's Malpensa Airport if at all possible!

DAY 2 - FRIDAY - Arrived in Florence and took a cab to our hotel...We were surprised to find a tourist info stand at the relatively small airport. Its staff spoke limited English, but were very helpful, and advised us what a reasonable cab fare was and where to get an "official" taxi.

Lodging: Hotel Porta Faenza - very charming little 3 star hotel several blocks from the train station. Found it on venere.com, but got a great rate of $122 U.S. on Expedia. Very spacious room for 3, with breakfast included, and helpful, English speaking staff. A great place to get acclimated and recover from jet lag!

Activities: Rested and showered, then walked around the historic area for the evening, seeing the Duomo and San Lorenzo at night.

Meals: At 6 pm we were starving, and wanted something more than a panini. Stopped at Cafe le Rose, on the Plazza dell Unita Italiana, where a stern waiter at this charming outdoor cafe sternly informed us, "No more food today." Our famished appearance, and my even more pitiful Italian softened his heart, and he agreed to find "something for you-a, but only pasta, ok?" We thankfully agreed, and minutes later were served plates of steaming spaghetti and rigatoni and a basket of hot bread for 4 euros a plate. A similarly exhausted looking family approached our now charming waiter, but he turned them away...causing us to feel quite special.

Tip of the Day: The Italian Immersion CD set for $15.95 at Costco is a good investment! I used this before a trip to Spain also, concentrating on things such as foods, numbers, days of the week, transportation info, and most important, asking for and understanding directions!! Despite info to the contrary in most guidebooks, we found that most Italians spoke little or no English...An effort to speak the language, however limited, was I think greatly appreciated and always responded to with warmth.

DAY 3 - SATURDAY - Enjoyed an early breakfast and trundled to the train station...easily pulling our 22 to 24" luggage behind us! The train system was surprisingly easy to negotiate. I did all our ticketing on-line through trenitalia.com before leaving, so we were able to board and take our seats, then simply showed the conductor our confirmation when asked later. Upon arriving at Rome's central station (main termini) we easily found the connection to the subway line to take us to the Colosseum stop (walking distance to our apartment).
Stepping out of the subway station into the light and staring up at the Colosseum directly in front of us was truly and unforgettable moment.

We stepped away from the crowd to gather our wits, and figure out directions to our apartment...upon which my husband was immediately hustled by two teenage girls. Very aggressive, in his face, shouting, even pushing...until he literally pushed one of them away, after which they yelled and cursed him (we assume), but made a quick retreat to the street and jumped on a passing bus. He was wearing a zippered money envelope on his belt, that has 5 separate compartments, with his shirt untucked over this. When he reconnoitered, he discovered the top compartment was unzipped, and he'd had no idea it had happened. Luckily there was nothing in the top compartment, but he kept it empty the rest of the trip just in case. In post-incident analysis, we determined that he was vulnerable because he had chivalrously insisted on carrying my carry-on, instead of leaving it on top of my rolling bag, leaving him with no free hands. Anyway, we heard many pickpocketing stories...and continued to be amazed at how artful they can be!

Lodging: Found a two bedroom plus apartment on www.vrbo.com in walking distance from the Colosseum that was incredible. Spent evenings sitting on the terrace looking out on the lit Colosseum and ancient Rome. If you're looking for lodging that is very reasonable, an apartment is well worth considering. For our specific place, check out: www.vrbo.com/32035. We assumed the listing as "stylish penthouse" was just hype, but it was more amazing than described. Sleeps 4-6 people, 2 bedrooms + loft, 2 baths for 180 to 200 euros/nt. Best of all, our hosts were wonderful; met us at the apartment and provided great orientation and support. Bakery, vegetable mart, small grocery all across the street. Molte bene!

Activities: Walked around in the afternoon and evening; bought groceries; had dinner at a small pizzeria a block behind the apartment. Great fun to simply walk the small streets and stop for the obligatory cappucino or gelato...or both. Sat out on the terrace with some wine and watched the sunset over the colosseum...unbelieveable.

Tip of the Day: Keep at least one hand free and, when approached, put your hand on your money (purse, wallet, etc.)

Did You Know?: Scooters in Rome do not have to stop at stop signs or red lights? This explains a lot.

DAY 4 - SUNDAY - Left early to go to Saint Peter's Square for Palm Sunday. Pietro and Marina (our apartment hosts) wisely told us to go quite early, so we were there by 9:30 or 10. As a result, we were directly below "the window" when the Pope appeared at 11:30, his second to last public appearance. It was a very moving sight, with tens of thousands of people assembled waving olive branches and palms in greeting. Later learned there were over 100,000 people there. Later walked down Via dela Conciliazione, also full of people, then walked to Castel S. Angelo. Very pretty grounds and fortress. Crossed Ponte San Angelo across the Tiber, then a leisurely wlk to Piazza Navona. This is described by many as very charming, but we didn't find it so...perhaps because it was so busy because of the Palm Sunday crowds.

Meals: We found many small streetside cafes everywhere we went, and pasta and a salad with wine was always a reasonably priced meal.

Transportation: The subway system in Rome is easy to negotiate, and we used it throughout our stay, rather than taking taxis. It felt very safe, aside from the ever present pickpocket action. We watched the locals, and learned to stand with our back to the back of the car, purse strap across our chests, with our hand on the flap. Never had any problems! Marina advised us that saying nothing was better even than saying "no" when approached by someone (begging, panhandling, etc.) Her advice was to "act like you can't even see them," and this seemed most effective. Hope I am not perseverating on the theft issue, but I think it is an important one esp. if you choose to stay in an apartment and explore, rather than taking cabs from your hotel to the sights.

Tip of the Day: Check out MapEasy's Guidemaps...There is one for Rome, Florence, Venice, and we found them invaluable. They include VERY detailed entries noting sights, shops, restaurants, etc. Often all the info we needed was right in the map! Borders Books has the series...or order on Amazon.com.

DAY 5 - MONDAY - Splurged on a guided tour with Pietro (our apartment host), which ended up being one of the highlights of our trip. Started the day at San Clemente Basilica, then walked all of "ancient Rome" ending up at the Pantheon. The area around the Pantheon is especially charming...after dinner in a sidewalk cafe, we walked to the Trevi Fountain to see it at night (magical) then to the Spanish Steps (not so much). Maybe it's transformed when the flowers are in bloom?

Sights: Spent quite a lot of time exploring the Palatine Hill area above the Forum, which was especially nice because hardly anyone was there. (Also, your entrance ticket there is good for the Colosseum, so you can get your ticket with no line!!) Small but fascinating museum at the top of Palatine Hill with neat sculpture. You can also look down and see the remains of the Circus Maximus. The Pantheon was one of our favorite places, however, for its sheer beauty. Also a fascinating blend of the ancient religion and Christianity.

Tip of the Day: While bemoaning my lack of historical knowledge, I noted to Pietro that in Rome I kept finding myself looking at some amazing site and thinking, "I have absolutely no idea what this is." His classic Italian response was to shrug and reply, "So, look somewhere else."

Best Kept Secret Tip: San Clemente Basilica - a couple blocks from the Colosseum off of Via Labicana. This is an amazing, little visited site...The monks who founded it excavated the lower levels, and you can go several levels below the street...the lowest level contains the remains of an early Roman home, and an intact altar to the god Mithras. Christian churches were often built on earlier, "pagan" spiritual sites. Amazing.

DAY 6 - TUESDAY - I cannot believe I wondered whether 4 days in Rome would be "too much"! After yesterday's trek we were quite exhausted...the concensus seemed to be that I was to blame, as a result of my insistence on seeing the Trevi Fountain at night. I think the term "trip nazi" may even have been muttered. Much of the day was spent with me saying, "We COULD have taken a cab back!" Italy was really having an effect...we were becoming more expressive and emotional the longer we were there.

Sights: First, back to St. Peter's, as the Basilica and the Sistine Chapel were closed on Palm Sunday. Afterward, we walked & took the subway to the Museo de Villa Borghese (make reservations), on advice of our hosts. This is a smaller, more intimate museum with some very important sculpture and paintings. They felt it was a better alternative to the Vatican Museums, which would be overwhelming and exhausting given our time limitations. The Borghese was quite wonderful, and just the right amount of art for those of us who (dare we admit?) are not really interested in art...that would be me. Afterward strolled the Veneto and Via Vittorio...designer shops and high end restaurants...and discovered where the well dressed people are hiding.

Best Kept Secret Tip (and maybe it should stay that way): On my insistence, we next visited Santa Maria dell Concezione, or what are known as the Cappucin Crypts. This might be a crowd pleaser if you have jaded teenagers or strong stomached kids who want to see something bizarre...The bones of 4000 monks were assembled here in the 1600's, when cemetaries and other crypts were being disturbed for building. So, the Cappucin friars creatively put them to use building altars, chandeliers, pillars, murals of the sacred heart, etc. Some of the monks are there in their entirety "in peaceful repose"...If you can picture the crypt keeper in peaceful repose, you get the idea. As I said to my (somewhat appalled) husband, "When are you going to see something like this again?" Of course, the answer was, "Hopefully never."

Summary: Rome is beautiful and stunning, somewhat overwhelming, and always chaotic. Edgy yet incredible. I can't wait to go back, but a week there might be too long!

NEXT: PART 2 - Venice

NatalieM, what a delightful trip report. How I envy those like you that can write with so many interesting details and also a sense of humor.
Venice, yes, keep writing please!

Natalie, I'm really enjoying your report! Your title said "part 1." I encourage you to post your entire report as responses to this initial thread. Much better to keep it all together! I look forward to more.

Hi Natalie, what Susan meant, as I am sure you know, but just in case, add the next segment of your trip report to this thread so it is all in one thread. And we all are waiting for your next report!!!

Natalie,

Just to say I agree with SusanP & LoveItaly on both points;

1} Please attach future parts to this thread and;

2) Your first part is EXCELLENT!

Thanks,

Jim

GREAT report about Rome. I'll be there in July and am printing your comments. You will 'accompany" me in Rome. Mille grazie!

I am enjoying your wonderful trip report very much and looking forward to the next part. I love your writing style!

I'm reading this out loud to my husband, as we'll be in Italy for our first time in September. Thank you so much for sharing!

Hi

Thank you for unselfishly sharing do's and don'ts.

I'm glad you escaped "undamaged" from your pickpocketing incident. As you said they are artful aren't they.

I liked your tip about the San Clemente Basilica. I'll definitely check it out next time in Rome (May 2006 I hope).

Cheers

Thanks! Looking foward to part 2.

Sipping my morning coffee, I thank you for my Rome fix this morning. Excellent writing. Looking forward to Part 2.

Love this report! I am only half way through but work calls. Looking forward to finishing later this morning. Thank you.

Great report--looking forward to your impressions of Venice.

fabulous report...i can't wait for the rest!

Okay, I have finished Part 1 and am SO looking forward to Part 2 as we will be in Venice in three weeks.

NatalieM, I have to say I found your report to be one of the most useful and informative here so far. The Tips of The Day were both amusing and gave great insight.

Having been to Rome previously, I loved your report of your husband's encounter with the gypsy girls. As soon as I started to read that I knew exactly where it was going. I am glad he did not lose anything to them. They can be very swift of hand.

We encountered a large group of them on the subway. Although they did not target us, they were all over these two male backpackers and I believe they did indeed slash one backpack and make off with some stuff. They get into "your space" as they did this time by wiping the young man's face with a napkin. He could not fend them off without taking his hands off of his possessions (which he did not but his partner did).

The aggressive shouting is the diversion to take your focus off of your belongings and then VIOLA, they are off and so is your stuff. Very scary. Glad you were lucky!

Enjoyed your report. We have shortlisted Porto Faenza for Florence. We are a family of 4 arrivimg by train. Would we need a cab from station? Are rooms old and tired and do we need to specify rooms not overlooking the street? Thanks.

Re. Porta Faenza...It is an easy walk to and from the train station, as long as you are fairly mobile (i.e. rolling suitcases). We found the rooms and the hotel in general quite charming, and not "shabby" at all. The breakfast was also very nice. Our room actually overlooked the street, but was very quiet, as it is a small side street.

Thanks just booked it 130 euros for a quad, with breakfast.

HI again --- You can check out more details on www.hotelportafaenza.it if you haven't already. I like to spend months surfing and dreaming about my trip before I go!

Yep me too, Natalie. I had shortlisted 3 hotels , among them Porta Faenza, Adler Cavalieri and Rivoli. Being that Cd.$ is so weak against the euro, I have had to book quad rooms in Florence and CT. to save $$. As you and eab have recent info and positive comments about PF and as cancellation is 48 hours prior with no penalty I have nothing to lose by booking it. Rome and Orvieto,I have booked 2 rooms though. We have a cruise after the land trip so I have been spending many enjoyable hours planning. Now just to get some reasonable air tickets. I have 2 on FF miles, so have to purchase 2. Thanks for your report I have enjoyed reading it, counting the days(80) until our trip.

Natalie - Do you recall the amount of the taxi fare from Vespucci to your hotel?

Cab fare from airport to hotel in Florence was 30 euros...with quite alot of traffic. The airport personnel said it would be 25 to 30. It seems the airport was quite a way from the historic center, and we were happy to pay for the cab rather than negotiate public transport in our sleep deprived state!

FABULOUS trip report. Love the "Tip of the Day" and the Rome apartment is amazing! Thanks for sharing!

Hi Natalie,
I love your report. I can tell you had a wonderful trip and the first time going to these cities is indiscribable. I was wondering why you few into Florence for an over night instead of flying directly to Rome? Just nosey. Keep the report coming. thanks

This is such a great report. Brings back memories of the Capuchine Crypts. My sister inadvertently left her movie camera on while we were lined up against the wall inside waiting to go through to the end of the crypt. We have a little film of the inside. Very eery at best.
LAU

Hi, Natalie--Great report! I'm another fan of the ossuary at S. Maria della Concezione. Admittedly bizarre, but it was one of the most wondrous things I've ever seen!

Looking forward to the next installment of your report.

A wonderful report Natalie, it should excite ChicagoDallas girl for her first time trip :)

Trip Report Part 2

DAY 7 - WEDNESDAY - Took the subway to the main termini station, where we transferred to our train to Venice. Decided on first class for this 5 hour trip...reclining seats appear to be the primary difference. The trip to Venice is beautiful...classic Tuscan scenery. Another brush with crime at the snack bar...while deciphering the menu, a rude customer broke in and attempted to place his order in front of ours. Afterward, my husband (who, you may remember, was almost carried away by gypsies at the start of the trip) discovered his "secret" zippered pouch had again been opened. This time our analysis was that the rude customer was the distraction, and someone likely jostled by behind him whom we didn't even notice. Luckily, he was keeping that top zippered pocket empty, so no problem! I think next time we should fill it with some horrible substance, like copy machine toner.

As in Rome, our arrival in Venice was breathtaking...stepping out of the train station into a postcard. We optimistically walked to our apartment, as its owner had assured us it was only a 10 minute walk with "two bridges." 45 minutes and approximately 38 bridges later (I wasn't counting, but I think this is accurate), we felt we were getting pretty close. We at least had found the Cannaregio district. As the designated communicator, I (yet again) asked directions of a very nice man...He spoke no English, of course, but we discovered I knew my colors, and was able to explain that we needed to turn into a tiny alley by "the lady in the white coat." We scurried as fast as we could as she was on the move, but managed to make the correct turn! A couple more blocks and we were at the large, medieval looking locked door to our building...with a list of buzzers to ring, but no names that matched the owners. An elderly gentleman emerged, and helped by pushing the bell for the only people in the building he didn't know...success!

In a "typicale" Italian twist, the owner was unable to meet us, so sent her friend who could only speak French. She spoke even less Italian than me, so our "orientation" did not really clarify anything. My sister and brother-in-law had flown directly to Venice, and had arrived before us...probably while we were wandering the streets. Later, when trying to decipher how to operate the hot water heater, I asked my sister if Yolanda (the nice French woman) had said anything about it...She assured me that, "oh yes, she said ALOT about the hot water heater, and seemed very excited about it."

Lodging: This was a huge, 3 bedroom apartment in a building that dates back to the 1400's...which my husband did not find surprising. Very cool building with an indoor piazza; 3 sets of huge locked doors, gargoyle-like faces and everything. This caused my sister and I to sing "We're Marley and Marley, whooooooo" from the Muppets Christmas Carol Movie everytime we entered and left...to the general annoyance of the rest of the group. But I digress...this was a genuine Venetian apartment, where real people live, overlooking a charming canal. (See it at: www.vrbo.com/17697) In hindsight, I would have tried our second choice www.vrbo.com/119075, "an enchanting apartment near the Rialto bridge." Our apartment was spotless, charmingly furnished, and housed 5 of us comfortably for under 200 euros per night. On the downside, the washer was also the "dryer," the hot water heater had its own personality, and the stove was a bit tricky...but hey, lots of ambience! At 9 pm the power went out...only in our apartment and the gargoyle equipped staircase. While the guys went searching for a fuse box (equipped with a tiny flashlight), the three of us huddled on a bed and mused, "Isn't this the part of the movie where everyone yells, 'Don't go down there you idiots...the street is full of vampires!!!!!'" Suffice to say, they actually found the fuse box and restored our power...causing them great pride, of course.

Quote of the day: "That fuse box is SO not up to code."

Activities: Walked around enjoying the sheer charm of Venice. Our apartment was in the Cannaregio district, an actual working neighborhood, which made for great people watching and strolling.

Tip of the Day: You can't have too many maps in Venice...We finally figured out that streets with the same name may be found in more than one "district," hence, finding the name of the street you're on, doesn't mean you are where you think you are!

DAY 8 - THURSDAY - Woke up rested from yesterday's trek to the apartment, 84 bridges, encounters with vampires, etc. (and refreshed by our lukewarm shower)! Walked to the train station (a surprisingly easy stroll of ten minutes or so) and purchased 24 hour vaporetto passes (10.50 euros). Caught the number 1 boat that travels the entire Grand Canal, getting off at San Maria Salute (built in thanks to the Virgin for ending the plague), then crossing over on another to San Marco. The bells rang as we got there, which I think means something...but I'm not sure exactly what. Perhaps that we will return? That we will be swept off our feet by a handsome/beautiful Italian? That we will spend more money in Venice than planned? The waves lapping against the boat, the echo of the bells mesmerize us...whispering a chant of Venice..."forget about the exchange...a euro is just a dollar...eat....shop...then eat some more." (from the book "A Thousand Dollars in Venice")

Activities: Strolled around Piazza San Marco, then toured the inside of the Basilica. Skipped the relics of Saint Mark, as I have promised my husband "no more dead people," after the Cappucin crypts. Strolled some more and decided on a cafe with music, pastries, and capuccino over the Doges Palace, agreeing that we need atmosphere more than knowledge.

Caught one of the last boats to Murano Island to visit the glass factories. Exactly as predicted by Rick Steves, watched a craftsman make "a vase and a leetle 'orse." Window shopped, but too pricey for those of us lacking appreciation for glass! Took the vaporetto back, and cleverly got off at the Fondamenta Nuove stop, and an easy walk back to our apartment. After dark, strolled San Lorenzo and planned our shopping for the next day!

Transportation: The vaporetto system sounded intimidating before we got there, but like everything else, was very easy to negotiate. It did help to check at the ticket counters to make sure we were waiting at the dock for the ferry that went in the right direction! (Most frequently used Italian phrase: Dove il...?)

Tip of the Day: Unless you are very interested in glass, you might enjoy one of the other, more scenic islands over Murano. For low-cost, "touristy" pieces (i.e. those in our price range), prices were much better in Venice, than at the glass factories.

DAY 9 - FRIDAY - Took a vaparetto to the Rialto Bridge for some power shopping. This was one of the best places for souvenier shopping...great variety and, surprisingly, some of the best prices. Walked, shopped, sat and enjoyed our twice daily cappucino break, then made our way back home on foot.

Tip of the Day: I think Rick Steve's book stressed that if you see something you like, buy it, as you may not see it again. This was certainly the case everywhere we went. Unlike the U.S., where one tends to see the same items again and again and again, each town, city, or area had its own unique products. Overall, it seems best to purchase items that are local to the area. E.g. The same glass vases we bought for 8 euros in Venice (Don't laugh...they're very nice.), were 24 euros in Cortona.

Meals: Strolled down San Leonardo looking for a place to eat, and stumbled upon Trattoria Le Campane...appealing because of its prices and the fact that it was full of locals. Enjoyed one of our favoriet meals, for about 12 euros per person. The owner was wonderful, showing us his outdoor patio that will open in summer, and chatting with my husband over a drink long after we left...somewhere we will look for when we return!

The evening ended with me having a fit of remorse over my failure to purchase a cat mask, as my sister had...So she and my husband and I set out on a quest to find this critical item before all the shops closed. Cat masks abounded BUT none with a tarot card pattern on the face! We eventually succumbed, and took the vaparetto all the way back to Rialto Bridge, where we managed to find one just as a stall was closing. This fiasco is important only because it gave us the gift of experiencing the...

2nd Tip of the Day: Be sure to take a vaparetto ride down the Grand Canal at sunset...a beautiful way to remember Venice (that and your cat mask, of course).

NEXT: Part 3 - Tuscany

Wow, what a GREAT trip report!!!!!!!!

Thanks!

NatalieM....I am just about jumping out of my skin in anticipation of leaving for my trip! I thought your Rome report was great but your Venice report was WONDERFUL! Having never been to Venice before, it is one of the things we are most anxious to get to and I felt like I was right there with you.

And I love the fact that your sister and your husband went all the way back with you to buy the mask! Obviously they appreciate the need to find that one thing we wished we had bought but did not. A very rare but necessary quality in a husband with whom you travel!

So on with your story.....please!

NatalieM.... It is I...Sister. I am SO enjoying reliving our trip to Italy with you. Your story is a hoot! At Basilica San Marco I did pay and stand in line to see the treasures of St. Mark -- I missed Rome, so hadn't seen any bones yet. It was fascinating because I had no idea how the church made holy relics & that the treasure would be pieces of St. Mark's bones, such as his hand in a glass container. Also fascinating to be in a room with the bones of Mark the Apostle who was with Jesus. This was my favorite part of the basilica. I love spending time in cathedrals, but found San Marco to feel as if it had no heart. Weird.

What an interesting report from a great story teller!! Thanks for sharing. Eagerly awaiting Part 3.

Dave

You're killing me with suspense! *LOL*

Where is part three?????

Terrific report, Natalie.

((I))

More! More! We leave for our trip to Italy in 6 weeks, and I am loving this information! Thanks so much, Natalie, for sharing!

Where is part 3??? You haven't gotten wrapped up being back in your real life already, have you?

i'm anxiously awaiting part 3 as we are going on our first trip to Italy in one month! Thanks for sharing such wonderful memories.

Also waiting for part 3 going to Tuscany next year and renting a Villa we don't have a clue yet What region or what to do? Waiting to hear from you. Great Great details of your trip

Fabulous report - thanks so much for spending the time to share all the details with us. :-)