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Thanks for the reminder, Maribel. I knew that you suggested a specific cave which would be easy to do, but I apologize, being away from home I didn't go back to check. It is much more on our way than the other one. I will take a look at all the details.
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No need to apologize! This thread is getting very long and packed with great info, so it's hard to keep it all straight.
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I had the time to review both caves and related and I also got an answer from Pozalagua. Each of them is attractive (for us) in its own way. A plus for Pozalagua is that is not on the tourists' way. A minus for Pozalagua is that is not on the tourists' way :):). I think that we will go to the caves of Soplao because it would be a much easier visit for me, it is easy to buy tickets ahead of time, etc. Regardless, thanks to each of you (Maribel, mikelg, kja) for the pointers and info. Hopefully no hard feelings for not being able to see all of these beautiful places.
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Just take into account that El Soplao is almost a 2 hour drive from Bilbao, and Pozalagua is less than one hour, in case your time is limited.
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Thanks, will remember.
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Hello again dear Fodorites:
Planning for our fall trip has been a stop-and-go. I turned back to it because it’s a ray of optimism and hope in this doomsday environment and it takes away my mind from what’s happening in the world and around us. For now we are happy to be at home and we are staying at home other than for walks in the neighborhood and are hoping for the best. If life will want to cooperate with my plans, we should be in: Bilbao – Sept 14-Sept 19 (5 nights); late arrival on Sept 14; 2 or 3 day trips Santillana del Mar – Sept 19-Sept 21 (2 nights) Near Potes – Sept 21- Sept 23 (2 nights) Burgos – Sept 23-25 (2 nights) Near Vitoria-Gasteiz- Sept 25-27 (2 nights) ====================================== I have (cancellable) reservations for each of the above locations and I took my top-down planning one level down. I used information that you provided (THANKS A LOT!), some guidebooks, the internet and our interests as a base. I have some questions and if you have the time, I’d appreciate your input/feedback, etc. I will capture the initially planned activities by day, followed by the relevant questions: Day 1- Sept 15, Mon - day trip to San Sebastian, potentially with a stop at Zumaia; I assume we will not starve despite the fact that we will be there on a Monday 😀 Questions: Is it easy to park in Zumaia? Would it be helpful to make a parking reservation at Txofre in the center in San Sebastien? Day 2- Sept 16, Tue - Bilbao: Guggenheim, Tourist Office close to it, Mercado de la Ribera (walking along the river, stopping for some of the bridges), Old Town, Catedral de Santiago, Funicular de Artxanda, evening walk (if we still have energy) on Henao, Heros and Juan de Ajuriaguerra streets. Day 3- Sept 17, Wed - day trip to: Lekeitio-Ea-Guernica-Mundaka-Bermeo-Gaztelugatxeko Doniene Question: any suggestions for places to park in these locations? Is parking very difficult in any of the above locations? Day 4- Sept 18, Thu: Bilbao (Museum of Fine Arts, Puente Bizkaia, Bilbao la Vieja) OR day trip to Hondarribia & Saint-Jean-de-Luz Question: I am inclined to pick the day trip. Any comments, suggestions? Day 5 - Sept 19, Fri: drive to Santillana del Mar with a stop at Liegarnes. After dropping luggage at hotel, go to Museum & Replica Cave; walk in Santillana Questions: Is it safe to leave the car with luggage in Liegarnes when we stop there? Any suggestions for parking place there ? Day 6 - Sept 20, Sat: day trip from Santillana to Cueva El Soplao, Carmona, Andrin, Llanes, Puertas de Vidiago, San Vincente de la Barquera, Comillas Questions: Is this too much for a day trip? Any suggestions for where to park in each of these locations? Is parking very difficult in any of these places? Google estimated 3 hours for a non-stop round trip. If you had 7 hours left for these places, how much time would you allocate to each and which one would you drop if you had to do that? The above is the high level plan for the first 6 days. Thanks in advance and stay well wherever you are. |
Re: parking: I identified options using google maps. Found it easy and accurate.
Re: Day 4: I truly enjoyed the Museum of Fine Arts in Bilbao and the Puente Bizkaia, but then, I like both kinds of things (fine art museums and engineering feats). I was disappointed in Hondarribia, which was a ghost town when I visited. I didn't make it to Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Day 6 sounds extremely ambitious to me. I visited the Cueva El Soplao (very unusual formations; about 1.5 to 2 hours IIRC for the stop, counting a few minutes before my tour and a brief break for coffee afterwards) and Comillas (delightful, IMO; I spent about 2.5 hours there and could have used more time). I can't speak to the rest of the places you are considering. Wishing you well, too. |
Day 1- Sept 15, Mon - day trip to San Sebastian, potentially with a stop at Zumaia; I assume we will not starve despite the fact that we will be there on a Monday 😀
Questions: Is it easy to park in Zumaia? Would it be helpful to make a parking reservation at Txofre in the center in San Sebastien? You may park at San NIcolás neighbourhood or at the other side of ther river and take the boat to walk the steep street to San Telmo street for the flysch. Many places will be open on Monday for lunch (take into account it´s our most important meal and it´s around 2pm). No need to make a parking reservation, I believe (can you??) Day 2- Sept 16, Tue - Bilbao: Guggenheim, Tourist Office close to it, Mercado de la Ribera (walking along the river, stopping for some of the bridges), Old Town, Catedral de Santiago, Funicular de Artxanda, evening walk (if we still have energy) on Henao, Heros and Juan de Ajuriaguerra streets. You´re missing Azkuna Zentroa on this walk and the Gran Vía, and Diputación Palace, symbolic for our liberties and with a statue of John Adams (who came to learn about our so old law and goverment system) Day 3- Sept 17, Wed - day trip to: Lekeitio-Ea-Guernica-Mundaka-Bermeo-Gaztelugatxeko Doniene...I´d do it like castle of Butrón, Gaztelugatxe, Mundaka,Bermeo, Gernika, Elantxobe, Ea, Lekeitio and then back to Bilbao. Complicated parking in many areas, it´s full of hills and beautiful coastal towns. Question: any suggestions for places to park in these locations? Is parking very difficult in any of the above locations? Day 4- Sept 18, Thu: Bilbao (Museum of Fine Arts, Puente Bizkaia, Bilbao la Vieja) OR day trip to Hondarribia & Saint-Jean-de-Luz For Puente Bizkaia, take the metro (so easy) to Areeta station and then it´s an easy 10min walk. Don´t miss the old fishing port of Algorta, a very nice promenade along the mansions in the area. Hondarribia is also a must, together with St Jean de Luz and Bayonne, but it´s an 1.5h drive. Toss a coin! Question: I am inclined to pick the day trip. Any comments, suggestions? Day 5 - Sept 19, Fri: drive to Santillana del Mar with a stop at Liegarnes. After dropping luggage at hotel, go to Museum & Replica Cave; walk in Santillana Questions: Is it safe to leave the car with luggage in Liegarnes when we stop there? Any suggestions for parking place there ? Yes, it´s very, very safe, no worries at all. Why the replica?? You have the beautiful Castillo and Las Monedas caves at the same distance, and it´s the same thing. Santillana can be seen in one hour. Enjoy!! We are at the peak of the virus scare and prevention, so taking life easy... |
Originally Posted by mikelg
(Post 17078168)
Why the replica?? .... Santillana can be seen in one hour.
Given what you've told us about your foot, I think your choice to visit Altamira makes a lot of sense. I spent an hour just in Santillana del Mar's Museo de la Tortura. |
Thanks for your quick and helpful replies, kea & mikelg, as always. I appreciate all input. And again, I will have to make some painful decisions about dropping something, because the days do not want to expand to 36 hours. Day 6 is the most agonizing one....
mikelg, I looked at Google and there is no place marked as "San Nicholas" neighborhood in Zumaia. Could point to a street instead? When I see "steep", I know that it is not for me. And yes, one can make a parking reservation and pay ahead of time. I asked because I keep reading that it is difficult to park in San Sebastian. So I might do it, because 10 EUR for 12h doesn't sound like a bad deal and it would save us time. kja, I will try your suggestion for figuring out parking using Google. That will be part of the next layer of planning. You remember correctly, I have to stay on easy and mostly flat surfaces, so that's why I will stick to the museum despite the fact that it is not the real thing... Mikelg thinks that Hondarribia is worth visiting, while you found it a "ghost town". Did this have to do with the specific day you were there a few years ago? I do not grasp the major difference in the impression this place made for the two of you. I am including below the rest of the days for your valuable insights: Day 7- Sept 21, Mon: Santillana to Potes with stop at Santa María de Lebeña and in Potes (Monday market, lunch, etc.), and then to Hotel Del Oso. Questions: I could not figure out when the church is open on a Monday. Does any of you know? Is 1.5 h driving time from Santillana to Potes reasonable? Day 8 – Sept 22, Tue: Fuente De cable, Potes and surroundings Day 9 – Sept 23, Wed: to Burgos There are many alternative ways to get to Burgos, as below: 1. Hotel-Potes-- Unquera-Torrelvega-Reinosa- (Orzales)-Orbaneja del Castillo- Valdelateja-Burgos; 275 km, estimated by Google to 4h driving time 2. Hotel-Potes-Camasobres- Cervera de Pisuerga-Burgos; 175 km; estimated by Google to 1h 45min driving time 3. Hotel-Potes- Unquera-Torrelvega-Reinosa- Aquilar de Campo-Burgos; 257 km; estimated by Google to 3h 35 min driving time. Option 1 can be done with or without going through Orzales. When going through Orzales, the road goes on the N side of the Ebro Reservoir, then it gets onto N-623 South. The road drops down into Ebro Gorge on good road. Based on my reading, Orbaneja del Castillo has great parking and is a beautiful town hanging over the gorge. While this road is quite long, it seems to me "tamer" than option 2, which appears to be short, but Google maps shows tons of curves, etc. Option 3 is almost as long as option 1, but appears to be less scenic. My inclination would be to pick Option 1 with Orzales, with stops maybe in Reinosa or Orzales, Orbaneja del Castillo- and Valdelateja. After arriving in Burgos, we could tour the center. Questions: If you are familiar with the roads, I'd appreciate your comments. Also is it worth stopping in Reinosa? Day 10, Sept 24, Thu – Burgos (Cathedral), then Cartuja de Miraflores, Covarrubias and Lerma. Maybe a hop to Abadia de Santo Domingo de Silos. Day 11, Sept 25, Fri – to Vitoria-Gasteiz/Argomaniz with stops in Haro, Brinas, Bastida, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Briones, Eltziego, Laguardia, Bodegas Ysios. Question: somewhat generic, is it safe to stop with the luggage in the car? Day 12, Sept 26, Sat – morning in Vitoria (cathedral, etc.), afternoon to Anana Salt Valley or Gorbeiako Parke Naturala. Day 13, Sept 27, Sun – drive to Bilbao airport. Thanks again and stay away from trouble! |
Some hotels in San Sebastian have arrangements with nearby parking lots, so you might want to consult yours.
Re: Hondarribia. I have only a limited tolerance for simply walking through a town, as opposed to being able to visit a museum or church or park or whatever. I was there for about 1.5 hours -- about 6 p.m. to about 7:30 p.m. -- on a Monday in mid-May. Nothing was open, not the church, no cafes, no shops, nothing. I saw less than a half dozen people in that time, mostly disappearing around a distant corner. I thought the belfry of the church interesting, but otherwise did not find either the upper or lower towns of particular interest in comparison to other places I saw on that trip. So my experience of the town was of a not-particularly interesting and rather drab place that did offer some nice views (from the upper town) but was not worth the opportunity cost -- the chance to have used that same time to visit something else. Some people love Hondarribia, so your experience might be very different. Day 11 sounds extremely ambitious to me. But maybe I don't understand what you want to do by stopping in all these places (and this is a general comment, not specific to this day): Even when I just plan to walk around, I assume I'm going to need an hour to find parking, walk a bit, and return to my car. Sometimes it's less, sometimes it's more. Since you're driving, you can't really stop for wine :( but if you want to stop for coffee, you might want to assume it will be a stop of more than an hour. You can not see everything -- which seems to be your intention on this trip. My advice would be to decide, in advance, what you are willing to cut if you are running behind, so that you can make choices on the fly. The safety of luggage left in a trunk is never guaranteed. I was willing to take the risk when I visited northern Spain in 2015, but it's a personal decision. Here's my list of considerations: - Don’t ever leave anything in the car that can be seen through its windows. - Always keep key documents -- including your passport, cash, and bank cards -- with you, preferably in a under-the-clothes passport pouch, with only what you need for the day outside of that pouch, and be sure that that pouch also has a copy of any key documents you might need on one or more days. - Don’t ever move things from the interior to the trunk in the place that you will leave the car – do that somewhere else, even if it means pulling off the road briefly a mile or so from your destination. - Try to park in a well lighted area where other people might have eyes-on (not so much because they might act, but because their presence might discourage thieves). - If possible, park your car in a way that would make it difficult for thieves to gain anything – for example, consider backing the car up to a wall to make it difficult to open the trunk or remove anything from it. - Be sure you know how to contact the police and your rental car agency and insurance agency as soon as possible if you do encounter any incursion. - Only leave your car with things in it if you are aware of the risk that you might return to find that they are gone. Hope that helps! |
Thanks, kja. San Sebastian is a day trip, so we will not have a hotel reservation there, but the option to reserve parking is a very good solution. I understand your experience with Hondarribia. I will review the overly ambitious days and probably cut down on some stops. The drive from Burgos to Vitoria is only 118 miles and doesn't look like a mountainous road. Even if I leave on paper all stops, we can always decide based on the day what we want to do or not, depending on how we feel, the weather, etc.
I am familiar with all the usual warnings about things left in a car. Some places though require more caution than others. That's why I am always asking about the local situation. Unfortunately, when you rent a car, you cannot ask for a trunk; there is a good chance for not having one. If not taking a risk, this would mean that we could not stop on the way in any place. It is a potential considerable risk, but maybe in smaller places in Northern Spain, the situation is not that bad. That's why usually I prefer to stay many nights in one place. But that means that I can see a lot less and I would be spending a lot more time on the road. But we will figure it out. there is always a trade-off. Hopefully someone familiar with the roads and places for day 9 could address the relevant questions and help with the other ones too. Now if this virus, would just go away... |
The one mistake we made on a similar trip was not staying in charming Comillas. We much preferred it to Santillana de Mar. We loved exploring the small French Basque villages right over the border from Spain. We spent a week in Hondarribia, loved it there. You will have a wonderful trip to this interesting area.
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Thanks, HappyTrvlr.
One clarification please: did names of locations, streets in Bilbao change? I entered some places suggested by mikelg in Google maps and they come up with different names. For example: - Plaza Circular = Plaza Biribila in Google - Diputacion Palace = Diputacion Palace in Google - Plaza del Sagrado Corazón = Jesusen Bihotza Plaza in Google Very confusing for someone who is not local. Hopefully we will be able to find places.... |
Perhaps you are forgetting that place names throughout the Basque region of Spain will sometimes be labeled in Spanish, sometimes in Basque, and -- on some maps -- in English?
A decent guidebook or two really should help you resolve these questions. |
Well, obviously I was quite ignorant about this until you enlightened me, kja. I have quite a few well known guide books for Spain, but they refer to places, addresses only in one language (usually Spanish). Different countries, places have different approaches to street signs, based on my travels. Many display names in two languages if the area is populated by people speaking two main languages (like in Montreal, Transylvania, etc.). Some places display signs in the local language and English (Japan, Israel, etc), mostly when their alphabet is not the Latin one. But until now I didn't experience what I am seeing now. So it is a new experience for me, seeing one name in the guide and then entering it in Google to see many times (but not always) a different name.
Are street signs in Basque Country in two languages? |
Originally Posted by Suzanna
(Post 17078651)
Well, obviously I was quite ignorant about this until you enlightened me
Best wishes, Suzanna! |
I fully agree with you, kja. But do you have an answer to my question about street signs in Basque Country, based on your trip there? That would be very helpful. Thanks.
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Now that we are confined home and have time to write, relax, argue, clean, argue again, eat, get fat and so on...some answers to some of the questions above:
- STREET SIGNS: Yes, all are bilingual, no worries on that side. Basque and Spanish don´t have any similarities at all (except the "new" words that were inexistant in Basque, and may be kind of similar), but all is written in both languages. - HONDARRIBIA: a lovely town, the upper part (where the Castle and now Parador is) offers beautiful houses and palaces (16th century many of them), I would park near Hotel Obispo, and knowing your problems with your foot, you may want to take the public and free elevator to the upper part of town (to the castle). Then, you may want to walk towards San Pedro street, full of bars and local atmosphere, to end on the quay and beach. - SANTILLANA DEL MAR: quite touristy, during season it´s paid parking. Beautiful palaces and houses, but it really has two streets, one of them ending in the beautiful Santa Juliana (the name Santillana comes from there) church (Colegiata), 12th century. Yes, it has a Torture Museum, but the town itself (plenty of restaurants and shops) can be seen in one hour. I love Comillas, too, less monumental but lots of local flavor, with El Capricho as the main attraction, and the University. - DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN (it´ll be written like this, Basque and Spanish), no need for parking reservation in my opinion, if you don´t want to walk much, Txofre parking implies some walking to La Concha area. Plenty of parkings (underground) everywhere and in the city center. - REINOSA, not much there, maybe a coffee stop. ORBANEJA DEL CASTILLO, one of my favorite places, but parking may be complicated (unless there´s a new area for parking somewhere, can´t imagine where as it´s in a very curvy road in a deep valley), been there as a kid many times, beautiful area, many cave churchs that are worth a visit (Santa María de Valverde) or romanesque San Martín de Elines, nearby. - VITORIA-GASTEIZ, the visit to the reconstruction of the cathedral is a MUST, then the medieval almond shaped old quarter and the plaza de España and the Virgen Blanca square. IGNORE the new Cathedral, not worth the visit, visit Santa María cathedral, the old one, spectacular visit. Salinas de Añana (make sure you make a reservation for a visit, otherwise you cannot get in the salt valley) would be better than Gorbeia Natural Park, I don´t think you are going to hike...and that´s what it is, a beautiful natural area. You can drive through this park if you take the roads from or to Bilbao instead of the highway. About leaving luggage in the trunk, well, Spain and the Basque Country are extremely safe, but you never know. As Kja says, don´t leave jackets or anything on the seats that can be seen from the outside, the trunk should be a safe place. Hope this helps!! Meanwhile, we are confined home, only allowed to go for food or bread, bars and restaurants and any other shops are shut down for 15 days ALL OVER SPAIN. Time to relax... |
Suzanna, we have spent some time in Donostia in the past and hope to be back there again when this pestilence goes away. We have never had any problem with the language issue - all maps we have acquired have had place names in both Spanish and Basque. All street signs were in both languages. Most people we encountered spoke both languages. Language certainly did not prove to be an impediment to navigation. Being a language nerd, I tried to add a few words of Basque to my vocabulary - that wasn't exactly an unqualified success. You should read The Basque History of the World.
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