Enjoy Athens? You bet we did!
 

We made it and what a great trip it was too, thanks to the folks on Fodors. I have lurked here for months now and read every message about Athens and Mykonos that I could find - your advice and recommendations were fantastic.

I first have to thank Sheila for mentioning Novotel Athens and KathyNZ for giving details of the Arethusa Hotel. We got a great deal for both and thoroughly enjoyed our stay in each. Our trip needed to be as low budget as possible and your accommodation recommendations sure paid off for us.

He who thinks he is being obeyed wished to rekindle his memories of Athens (ex navy, and stationed Piraeus almost 30 years ago) and I so wanted to see the island where my heroine Shirley Valentine heard that orchestra play (hey...I live in hope!!)

We flew Delta to Athens and arrived on time. The new airport is impressive and easy to get around in. Baggage recovery was quick; we walked straight out of the arrivals area and followed the Bus Services notices to the area just outside the main door. Luckily, the E95 coach to Syntagma was 5 minutes from departing and gave us enough time to purchase our tickets at a little booth each at a cost of 2.90 euro. Amazingly cheap and the ticket also gave us use of the metro and bus services within the city for a full 24 hours from time of purchase.

The journey time into the city was only 40 minutes and the coach stopped four times on route to let passengers off. When we arrived at Syntagma we intended to take a cab to the Novotel but could not find a taxi rank. One elderly gentleman who saw our feeble attempts at flagging a cab bravely stepped onto the road and yelled our destination to a number of them as they tried to drive around him. Just watching him do this for us scared me to death as I was convinced he was about to be killed trying to help a couple of ageing newbie tourists to his city. Luckily, one of the drivers surrendered and agreed to take us to the hotel. The fare was only eight euro and the trip took less than 10 minutes.

The Novotel is in the Larissa area of the city and is about a 5-minute stroll from the metro station of the same name. The location was quiet and the locals friendly. Not many restaurants but there were a good number of small shops and a couple of supermarkets. We loved the hotel. Nice large room with powerful air-conditioning (thank God!), plus very friendly and efficient staff. They had a great rooftop pool and restaurant and we loved ending our day sitting up there enjoying the floodlit city and the view of the Acropolis.

Some things about Athens that surprised us. We saw some renovations taking place for next years Olympics but not the volume folks have been mentioning on here. Maybe we were lucky in our choices of places to visit! Many of the buildings had already been cleaned up and looked magnificent.

Oh, if m_kingdom is reading this then the Grande Bretagne in Syntagma looks fantastic after it?s refurbishment. If inside is as good as the outside then you are going to love it!

The new metro is magnificent and in particular the Acropoli and Syntagma Stations. A single trip cost .70 euro and an all day ticket was 2.90 euro

Where are the Athens cats? I had gone there expecting to see loads of them but saw very few.

Luckily, we had no smog at all when we were there although plenty of diesel fumes in some areas. That didn?t bother us too much as we get plenty of those at home.

On our first full day, we took the metro from Larissa to Syntagma and spent some time watching the Evzones at the Tomb of the Unknown Solder right in front of the House of Parliament. From there we walked up and along El Venizelou past some embassies and I headed into the Benaki museum while HWTHIBO crossed the street and visited the War Museum.

I loved the Benaki and could have spent much more time there if we hadn?t already arranged to meet outside the US embassy. From there, we walked up through Kolonaki to the funicular at Likavitos (4 euro). The views from the hill were fabulous and we had lunch in the small restaurant there (25 euro). I think we could have stayed longer had it not been for the heat. My god it was hot.

Heading back to Syntagma we walked down the avenue at the rear of the House of Parliament and saw that there are Evzones there too. So, if you cannot bear the crowds at the front sneak round to the back and see the (smaller) show. From there we strolled into the National Gardens, checked out the tiny zoo and then relaxed in the shade of the trees to eat the best peaches (bought from a street stall) I?ve ever tasted in my life.

Took the metro back to Larissa and on the way from the station to the hotel we found a small untidy looking restaurant that looked interesting (and cheap!!!). Later we visited it and had a superb dinner at a total cost for two of only 28 euro. I have never tasted lamb so good.

Day two we took the metro straight to Monastiraki and spent almost the whole day around the Plaka. We visited the Roman Agora and Greek Agora, the Tower of the Winds, Acropolis, Temple of Zeus. We also walked down to Kerameikos but could only look over its walls as the site was closed.

In the evening we ate in the Plaka and decided to take up the suggestion made here by Thanos_gr and take in a movie at the outdoor cinema. It was truly weird to be in this rooftop cinema and have the Acropolis as a backdrop. We did enjoy it though.

Day three was spent entirely in Piraeus. Metro from Larissa to Omonia then change onto the Piraeus line. Cost was .70 euro for the ticket. At first, I hated this place especially when we came out of the metro and walked along the front where the ferries were waiting to depart. It was noisy, dirty and smelly. HWTHIBO guided us back a street or two onto long avenues with stylish shops and pretty areas to rest and eat. Now I was beginning to enjoy Piraeus.

I was left on my own as he went to check out some places he knew when he was stationed there (no, I don?t even want to think about it!) and I relaxed in a beautiful little square sipping frappe and enjoying the atmosphere. Later we took the metro back to the hotel and again ate in the little restaurant we had visited at the beginning of our trip.

On our last day in Athens before heading off to Shirleys island we took the metro out to Kiffisia. What a lovely place this was and I recommend folks check it out if they ever visit Athens. It was quiet in contrast to the city centre but the air was fresh and the pace much slower.

I have probably written way too much but I am still on a high from our vacation. Sorry folks.

Part 2 (Mykonos and back to Athens) to follow but I will try and condense it a lot more. That is a promise.

Lastly, we loved the capital and were so pleasantly surprised. I had gone there expecting not to enjoy the city but left feeling good that we were returning there at the end of our trip.

Milley

I forgot to mention that I came home with loads of guides and timetables for the city transport systems including local flights to the islands. If anyone needs that information please let me know.

I am happy that you enjoyed the city and try the movie theatre.

T.

Great report... great trip! I hope this becomes the definitive answer to all those who think Athens only deserves 15 minutes.

Did you have any other Shirley Valentine moments? :-)

I loved your report - wish it had been longer! No condensing on your installment please.

Grasshopper - 15 days would have been better! We really enjoyed the city and were so pleasantly surprised that we did bearing in mind other folks perspective on Athens. Perhaps we were just lucky that everything went without a problem.

When we came back to Athens we had a few more days during which we spent outside the city to some of the important archaeological sites. That will be in the second instalment!

Also, our accommodations were great and that helped so much. I have Kathy and Sheila to thank for those.

Other Shirley moments? He he he, those will be along in part 2 when I get the visiting kids out of here and sit down to finish the report.

HappyCheesehead, I'll do my best not to condense too much. I worry sometimes that I blather on a bit too much.

Milley

No cats in the National Gardens?

April, it is the one thing that has left us puzzled.

We saw two cats in the gardens. After reading on the web to expect to see very many there (and in the city as a whole) it was strange. I'm a cat lover and was looking forward to seeing them all.

I really hope that nothing sinister has happened. Anyone know? Thanos?

milley

Milley,
Please get that Mykonos report going.
We were in Greece last month and visited Athens, Santorini and Paros and
in Athens, we covered some same things you did. I enjoyed it also so I like reading your report to reminisce. We didn't go to Mykonos, but there's always next year so lets hear (see?) about it.
thanks,
Mark

Milley, I enjoyed your report. My daughter and I liked Athens, too; and weren't those coffee frappes good?

I'm so happy to hear you enjoyed Athens. My husband and I are leaving in 2 weeks for Athens, Santorini and Rome. Your input is so greatly appreciated. I too have been furiously reading recommendations trying to decide where to stay. We are only planning for 2 nights in Athens, so do you think we should stay in the Plaka? Where were the hotels you enjoyed so much???
Thanks again for all the details!

Hey mjhzz or whatever,
Don't stay in Plaka. its touristy and sloppy. Kind of grimy, too. Reminds me of parts of fulton street brooklyn. Stay in a nice place like intercontinental or Hotel bretagne.

You can stay NEAR the Plaka. Hotel Elektra Palace is lovely.

Mark_va: Part 2 (Mykonos) follows right after this message

carolyn: I loved the frappes. Having never tried them before I wasn't so sure I would enjoy cold nescafe but, my god, they were so refreshing. Now I need to experiment here at home and hopefully I can get a close to what I tasted, or maybe not!

mjhz: the Arethusa was right on Syntagma Square. Very central. I'll be writing more about it in part 3. The Novotel was great and is only three metro stops from the town centre and we got a superb rate through dilos.com (another recommendation here)

In both cases we needed to live well within our tight budget so we really could not consider any more expensive hotels.

Part 2 Mykonos and back to Athens

After a substantial breakfast at the Novotel, (included in our rate and a great excuse to over-indulge!) we carried our baggage the 5-minute walk to the metro at Larissa and took the service the couple of stops to Syntagma. There we huckled our stuff onto the busy airport bus (E95 and 2.90 euro each) and took the hour-long trip back to the airport.

This time the service was slower as the roads were very busy so leave time folks for any delays if you ever use the service in peak hours. Also, do not forget to put your tickets into the validation machine right inside the coach as there were warning notices about fines of 25 euro (I think) being levied against those found not to have bothered. As we did not have any bucks to spare, the man in my life got the evil eye from me to make sure he did not forget.

When the coach stopped at the airport, we wound our way past statues on display and found ourselves in the air-conditioned departures level. This was nice! It was kind of quiet luckily, and our flight was already on the board although we had at least 2 hours to spare before take off. We easily found the correct Olympic check-in desk. The young woman was perfectly polite and had good manners. She did not smile once though even after he tried a joke. That has the same effect on me so I did not think much about it.

We had some coffee (3 euro each) to while away the time and then got through to the departure gate after our hand luggage was well checked out by the security people. I tell you this too, it was one of the most thorough checks I have ever had. At the gate, the Olympic woman was again full of manners and again very polite but not a smile to be seen. Ah well, I easily prefer manners and politeness to a sugary smile so please do not think they are being rude.

A small blue bus took us from the gate to the plane. It was an ATR72. It was small. It was the smallest plane I have ever been on. Oh God.

I am a nervous flyer but I have to say the flight went without a problem and as it flew kind of low for the entire 30-minute trip the views were fantastic. The captain pointed out the main islands we flew over or past such as Evia, Andros, Syros and Tinos. They looked soooo beautiful.

Baggage retrieval was fast at Mykonos airport and we waited about 15 minutes to get a taxi at the rank (cost was 7 euro).

We were staying at the Carbonaki Hotel right in Mykonos Town so the taxi driver had to drop us off right at the harbour front and pointed out the little street we had to walk along to find the hotel. It was not wide enough for any cars so his helpfulness was appreciated. It took us all of two minutes to reach the hotel where we settled into a nice air-conditioned room. The Carbonaki, run by a very nice family, also has a pool. The elderly owner sits for hours and hours on a little stool on the sidewalk at the hotel main door and was so kind in giving us many items of information about the town and island.

I fell in love with this island immediately. The sun was strong but the winds were blowing a great cooling breeze. In my life, I cannot remember a place where the light was so bright and dazzling. That, mixed with the beautiful colours of the ever present hanging flowers, blue and red balconies, tiny narrow streets and whitewashed cube-shaped houses made it just so perfect.

We found that the town remained quiet in daytime (which suited us both) and got busier from around 5pm when folks returned from the beaches.

Our first day was spent just relaxing and exploring Mykonos town. We walked to the famous windmills, had a coffee and croissant each at one of the cafes on the harbour front (14 euro) and ended the day walking to the harbour area to watch a ferry coming in. It seemed to be organised chaos but fun to watch. The sea was rough though and I bet there was a few folks getting off the ferry that were happy the journey had ended for them.

Oh, and I had another Shirley moment when I found the market stalls on the harbour front that she bought her fruit. Unfortunately, there were no melons!

One thing I need to say here is that Mykonos was expensive. Everything from a coffee to a simple dinner was, I felt, pricey. We averaged (for a two course dinner with wine) between 35 and 40 euro. We tried to eat at those restaurants we found to be at a cheaper level but sometimes they seemed to be hard to find. In fact, one evening we had a dinner picnic courtesy of the local supermarket. Fresh fruit, cheese, cold meat, some wine and a great view. Saved us a fortune and it has to be recommended!

On our second day I wanted to be alone. Yup, you?ve got it. I was heading off to Agios Yannis to see where Miss Valentine worked and lodged and listened to orchestras. That day I was going to BE Shirley. HWTHIBO said it was not a problem, as he wanted to check out some of the local museums in the town plus perhaps a few beaches. Yes, I know all about some of the beaches on the island and he knows what Shirley got up to so how could I mind!

I took a taxi to Agios Yannis (6 euro) and the driver kindly dropped me off at the very top of the road to let me walk down and take in everything I had seen in the movie. Sure enough there was the hotel, the little blue church in the harbour area, the island across the beautiful Aegean (Delos) and further down the road on the beach the actual taverna that was also used in the movie.

In general, the area does look different as there are now many new apartments but I think that the area is big enough to cope with that without it being spoiled.

I had lunch at THE taverna and checked out the large movie stills displayed on the wall, and then walked back up to the main road to take more pictures for my album. Down that same road a little bit there is a nice cafe where I sat and chatted to the young man (about 20 years old) who was on the cash register. He laughingly told me about others who visited Agios Yannis searching for Costas and the hotel owner both seen in the movie. He could not understand how people thought those characters were real. I think it was at that moment I could have slapped his beautiful face, in a caring way of course.

Had he never heard of the damn orchestra, found that little beach, or dived into the ocean that goes down forever? Mind you, if he had been ten years older I may have asked him if he could borrow his brother?s boat and we could explore the beaches looking for the Greek rock he he he

I left Agios Yannis feeling just a bit melancholy. I have no idea why. I was not disappointed in what I found there, in fact I loved the place from the moment I saw it that day. It was weird.

Down at the little harbour in Agios Yannis was a bus stop and a helpful timetable displayed let me see that the bus to Mykonos town calls there every hour. I did not have long to wait and was back in town in about 15 minutes and the ticket cost me 1.5 euro.

HWTHIBO was snoozing at the hotel when I got back. He said the museums were good but he did not go to any beaches. I believed him too!

Day three and our last on the island was spent just enjoying the great atmosphere in the town, taking more coffees and having a very lazy day. Just after lunch, the next day we took the ferry back to Piraeus and the trip was very enjoyable. We called first at Tinos then Syros (very pretty port, must visit if we ever come back) and reached Piraeus late evening.

Again, we took the metro back to Syntagma and easily found Hotel Arethusa.

Part 3 to follow!

I just wanted to say that I am really enjoying reading this report! My fiance and I are leaving for Greece in one week and we can't wait!! This will be our first trip to Europe...we've been planning for a year and I can't believe it's finally here.

We'll be in Athens for a few days, then Santorini (where we're getting married!) and then Mykonos. I'll definitely post a trip report when we return. :)

Milley, I'm not even going to Greece and I'm enjoying your report! Write on!

Milley: I'm enjoying your report immensely! It's been quite a while since we took our trip to Greece and I felt as if I was with you as you toured Athens (which we too liked very much) and again as you walked the narrow streets of Mykonos to get to your hotel.

Shirley Valentine is a favorite movie of mine, and your comments about your visit to the area where it was made were great!

So glad you had such a good time and the way you are describing it makes me feel your joy. Thank you. >:D<

MAS16 I know you and yours will have fanastic time. It was my first trip to Greece too and I can't wait until I'm able to return. I hope you have a wonderful wedding day on Santorini.

dln, thanks. The third and last part I hope to finish later.

Giovanna: thanks too for your comments. Did you visit Agios Yannis when you were on Mykonos?

milley: No, but I certainly will if we ever return. Will also buy a Byzantine ring, which I so admired, but felt were an extravagance we couldn't afford, and have regretted it ever since.

This report is great! I'm leaving for Greece on Thursday (also doing Athens and Mykonos) and this report couldn't have come at a better time.

I'm taking a Delta flight via JFK. Can you tell me your thoughts on the flight? Also, do you remember any of the names of the restaurants?

Many thanks.

Okay, I MUST ask... HWTHIBO? I am trying to figure it out. I have some ideas, but not the "B" "O". Do tell.

Great report by the way!

Your report is a valentine to Greece!!!!

Giovanna: I saw those rings in Mykonos! In fact, I thought the specialist gold shops there were amazing, so beautiful. I was not allowed to loiter outside them too long though and anyway he had the credit card. Bad planning on my part I think. Go back and buy!

wuzupnyc: Delta was just fine. In fact, any airline would have been OK as I was so excited about going to Greece I really didn't care. Sounds crazy but it is true. The little restaurant we used a couple of times in Athens was on Mihail Voda just 100 yards along from the hotel. I'm so sorry but I don't recall it's name but it is the only restaurant there. In the Plaka the restuarant was opposite the metro station at Monastiraki. Again, I didn't take a note of the name but I will remember to do so if I ever write a report again. Mykonos was different as we had a couple of evening picnics courtesy of the local supermarket. We ate in one restaurant called Kostas right behind the main town Church. Another that was recommended to us was Nikos but he didn't get a chance to try it out.

Austin: I'm married to an ex-navy man. He always tells me at least he had power there! He Who Thinks He Is Being Obeyed. He does too. Really.

cigalechanta: thanks, what a lovely thing to say.

Final part

It was late evening when we came up onto Syntagma and we used the little map I had printed off from Hotel Arethusa?s website to find the place. Amazingly, it took us only 3 minutes to get to its front door as it is located almost ON the square.

One thing I need to mention though was the heat that was waiting on us when we arrived back in Athens. That evening the city centre was unbelievably hot and humid. Much, much hotter than our few days there the previous week. The breezes on the island and during our ferry trip that day no doubt helped reduce the temperature and make it all so pleasant but I cannot remember ever feeling humidity like that before.

Our welcome at the hotel was so very nice and we found that the level of friendliness continued throughout our stay there. This is a tourist class hotel, on eight floors, with a rooftop restaurant area. The rooftop was closed down during our stay but the lovely woman on reception gave us the key to let us take some pictures of the Acropolis. Our room was large, clean, and tidy. Unfortunately though, the air conditioning system really struggled against the so very high temperatures outside and the room was sometimes stuffy and warm particularly through the night. Mind you, the rate for the room was great at 95 euro per night and we have no reason to complain.

We had budgeted for one conducted tour (the full day trip to Corinth, Nafplio, Mycenae and Epidaurus) but we were too late that first evening to book it for the next day. We therefore got out our guidebooks and maps and decided to take a trip back down to Piraeus and use the local ferry to visit Hydra instead.

Very early next morning, after a ?hot? night and a very nice breakfast (included in the rate) we again caught the metro to Piraeus and found the booth that sold tickets for the Saronic Islands.

We had the choice of either the high speed ship or the slower car ferry. We chose the car ferry simply because it also called at Aegina, Methana and Poros on the way. The journey to Hydra took about 3.5 hours and we loved every minute of it. The town itself was soooo beautiful and I wish that we had been spending maybe a few days there. We only had about 3 hours before we had to start the trip back but we could not complain bearing in mind how little we had paid for the whole journey.

We arrived back in Piraeus about 6.30 and had dinner there before returning to the city centre. The tour companies charge about 80 euro per person for this trip and we did it for about 40 euro all in.

The next morning the tour company C.H.A.T. collected us from the hotel just after 8am to start the Mycenae-Epidaurus trip (79 euro per person ?with lunch? or 69 euro per person ?without? ? we felt this was an expensive tour so to ease the strain against our budget we opted for the ?without lunch? option). From the hotel, we were taken to a sort of clearing area where we got on another coach and then set off.

The places we visited have been talked a lot about on here and I am not going to go over them again.

Our favorites were Nafplio (where we bought lunch) and Epidaurus. I would have loved to have attended an evening concert at this beautiful place. Mycenae was amazing but the heat kind of held us back a little as there was no shelter there.

The tour guide was very good and the air-conditioned coach extremely comfortable.

We were back at our hotel for just before 7pm, happy and a little tired.

This was our last evening so we splashed out a little and had dinner in a restaurant recommended by our friend at the hotel.

We took a cab to the place and I think it was called Athenian and was close to Omonia Square. The food was fantastic and was all traditionally Greek. A lovely way to end or trip.

Next day we were so sad to be leaving. Usually after a week or two I am ready to go home but not this time.

Everything went smoothly on the return trip and now that we are home I have my photographs and lovely memories. I just cannot wait until we return.

Shirley is gonna have some competition next time especially as I already have made a deal to hire the brothers boat. But that is my little secret.

milley

Hydra is a fantastic little island, isn't it, gov?? Did you have a drink at the kafeneia that is on the promontory near the "beach." There were some lovely shops near the cafe. Oh, how I wish I on holiday in Greece right now with a big retsina in front of me.

Hi,
Thank you for a great report. My husband and I love Greece. We have been there serveral times and we keep discovering new areas. This year we traveled to France and loved it, but we are now planning a return trip to
Greece, but we won't be able to go until 2005. Your report let me live vicariouly.

Your trip report brought back memories for me. I took a tour back in the mid-70's through Epidaurus, etc. Everyone said that I had to go to the evening performance there - we'd never forgive ourselves if we missed it. Anyway, we went and I was incredibly bored! I'm not sure what we were expecting, but it was all in Greek - big surprise, eh? I still chuckle when I think about it! That area was wonderful though.

I took liked Athens. 24 years later, I went back, with my husband, and enjoyed it again.

ThinGorjus: We didn't have a drink at the kafeneia but I'll take a note of it for the next trip. I had never tasted retsina before arriving in Greece and at first I wasn't so sure. Then I found the more I tasted it the more I appreciated it LOL

yipper: If we can save big-time then it will be 2005 for us too. Also, I'm not so sure next year is the best time to go with the Olympics being held in Athens. Mind you, the great thing will be to see so much of Athens and Greece on the TV coverage. I bet visitor numbers in the months and years after the games will soar.

SusanInToronto: Intesting to read your comments about Epidaurus. For me, I think it would be just to sit there as the sun goes down and then soak in the atmosphere. Can you recall if the tickets were expensive? Also, where did you book them?

milley

Hi Milley, great report and very interesting, you stepped in my footsteps so to speak in Athens, Mykonos and Hydra. Glad you liked the Arethusa, it is surely one of the most convenient and the staff are so nice, all had a great sense of humour on reception and allowed me into a room at 6.30am in the morning after my flight from London. I then fell into bed and slept for 3 hours. From Adrianou street up to the small road that runs to the Acropolis entrance are some houses and there are quite a few felines around there.
The tavern that Shirley worked in was closed for the season when I called but sounds like it was interesting with it's photos on the walls. Did you meet mama at Il Posto cafe on the waterfront, she is lovely and a real character?
I walked from the second to last metro stop to Piraeus through the waterfront area and marina and there is further along a very good Marks and Spencers with a supermarket. Also near there a pleasant walk along the coastline to Piraeus. It was a long way but very enjoyable. I hope that you got to Delos which really is a must see, one of the highlights for me.
I should also mention M & S on Ermou st, has a lovely little cafe for a rest after much shopping.
I was disappointed with Kifissia, it was too run down for me to be called an upmarket suburb. Some old villas that must have been truly splendid in their heyday but not now.
I'm also planning my next escape to Greece and luckily have week to week reports from my Athenian friend.
If anyone is looking for a homely small inexpensive pension on Mykonos, on the hill above Hora but with a spectacular view from it's terrace and lovely hosts, please ask.