Dear Ek, I don't dare to say what other people should enjoy or how to spend their money but I venture to say that most Portuguese hardly find value in meals labeled "haute cuisine" or "nouvelle cuisine".
That said, I'd like to mention that the reference "marisqueira" in Lisbon is restaurant Gambrinus, downtown. An alternative to Ibo is Zaafran in Estefania Sq. If you want bacalhau give a chance to Laurentina (the king of cod).
Whatever is the choice, I wish you a wonderful experience in my town.

Thanks so much, Lobo. I've read dozens of your posts here in the past week or so and they have been a huge help in preparing for the visit. It's the same here in NYC with tthose kind of restaurants. Yes, we see fellow New Yorkers but by and large, the really "top" in whatever sense one takes that, are filled with visitors. Thank you for the new suggestions..I willl take a look!

It has been quite a while since I was in Lisbon, but, I went to this restaurant based on a NY Times review and loved it - and recommended it to a coworker (captain of our flight dept) who went there with his wife and said it was one of the best meals he had (maybe he was being nice to me).

Olivier.

http://olivier.pt/en/

ps. surely you know about Pasteis de Nata (de Belem), I hope? Do not miss these. Yum.

a few good articles I found while trying to find the original NYT article:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/27/tr...or-lisbon.html

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/26/tr...nlow-high.html

and a few foods threads, one of which has my recommendation and in fact my coworker said "at that price point" - just a small correction.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...for-lisbon.cfm

Really old, but might be worth a gander:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ining-club.cfm

Thanks for posting those. It appears that the dining scene in Lisbon has changed radically since most off them were written, though, but there are some good tips nevertheless.

I was able to book MINI BAR TEATRO for the first night; it is near our hotel so good for the day of arrival. And since it looks as if Belcanto is not possible, at least we can get a small idea of the cooking of Chef Avillez.

I did find a recent article in which Georges Mendes, who has two very well regarded Portuguese restaurants in NYC, lists his favorites. Not surprisingly, I had most of them on my list already but the article is quite helpful.

Is there anyone here who has made a reservation at Ramiro? Most reports say that this is not possible but a few people do claim to have been able to book ahead. I've written to them to inquire.

EKS--I am a fan of your trip reports and your restaurant choices have never steered me wrong. Can't wait to read your report when you return as we plan to go next May!

Thanks so much for for the compliment, Hax!

Here is the refined list we have so far, for dinners in Lisbon; I've booked four out of five nights but can always change; BELCANTO was fully booked for dinners during our stay.

MINI BAR TEATRO

C. RAMIRO

PEIXERIA DA ESQUINA

CANTINHA DO AVILLEZ


Question: It sounds as if it is best to visit Belem during the week when there might be less crowds. Is this true? Will I miss anything (except crowds) by not going on a weekend? We would like to try the famous Pasteis de Belem, and maybe have lunch or dinner at Nunes, in Belem.

Also interested in visiting the Time Out/Ribera Market and any other worthwhile food markets.

Restaurants in Lisbon:

1. “Duval”-- DH had walked by this very nice-looking restaurant on a tiny street up the hill, across from an historic convent. We returned to it for dinner, and were very happy with it. It has a more contemporary feel, with excellent service and an inventive menu.

The chef was short-handed, because her husband/chef was in the hospital for surgery, but she still made time to come to our table and help us choose wines with our orders. Our waiter was actually from their other restaurant in the Algarve, who had been pressed into service, and he could not have been more friendly and helpful. We enjoyed picking his brain about his hometown Lisbon.

The chef sent a complimentary garlic sardine appetizer to us, to tide us over because our order was behind a huge party of 30.

“Duval”, Rue Nova da Trinidade No 11 H/K
1200- 301 Lisboa
www.fazgostoslx.com

2. "Sancho"-- This place was very near our hotel, and looked good, so we stopped in for dinner. Service was excellent and fish was fresh and good. I had prawns and DH had salmon.
“Restaurante Sancho”,
Travessa da Gloria n.o. 14
1250- 118 Lisboa
www.restaurantesancho.com.pt

3. We did NOT like “Restaurante Valentino”, although it is a lovely restaurant, outside seating, on a charming narrow cobblestoned street directly down from our hotel. It had been recommended by our concierge.

Our experience was not good—service took forever, and both our orders were delivered wrong. We had to wait a while for the new orders to be delivered. The manager apologized, but offered no comp drink while we waited. The food was mediocre, shrimp was scarce in our sauce, pasta was too al dente. We noticed other diners were also drumming their fingers on the tables, waiting for their food. Maybe it was an off-night, as our waiter seemed to be new, didn’t speak English, and required the assistance of the manager several times. The restaurant was full, outside and in.

http://grupovalentinorestaurantes.co...auradores.aspx

We take our meals at O Rei do Bacalhau.

Thanks to you both.



Ron: Is this the O Rei do Bacalhau near the Gulbenkian, with the name Laurentina? I ask cause there seems to be more than one place calling itself King of Dried Cod. In any case, the one I think you refer to, on Av. Conde de Valbom, looks llike a classic. Do you eat all your meals there while in Lisbon?


http://www.restaurantelaurentina.pt/...g=es&id=ementa


I only wish I had more time, or that I could eat more than two big meals per day.

Eks, I noticed you are from Long Island and I remembered a travel over 20 years ago to visit a high tech communications company called Coherent Communications (60, Commerce Drive) and staying in Sheraton Hauppage.
I understand I'm old when I realize the hotel changed name to Upsky LI and the company doesn't exist anymore.

Eks, may I ask when and to which cities in Portugal you are going? Going to post our tentative itinerary in a new topic, but would love to hear your plans and suggestions. Thanks!

Lobo: We are all old!

Hax: We are going to Lisbon for 5 nights. If we like it (and everyone I know who has been raves about the city) we will return and see more of Portugal. I will report back on where we ate!!

Old friend EK and old friend LObo..no, neither of you is old in any sense. Crowding 88 is!
stu ("Keep on truckin' kids!)

Not sure if you can get BBC programmes as they are screened in UK, or maybe soon after through the BBC store, but if you can you might be interested in one coming up this Friday 15th November which is part of Rick Stein's long weekend series and it is set this week in Lisbon.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b082wf36

They always have a very strong foodie orientation visiting restaurants and food markets etc and Rick Stein is one of UK's less irritating celebrity chefs.

Eckscrunchy_ enjoy Lisbon! We spent nine nights there as part of a trip to Portugal and loved the whole country. Have a Bica and an egg custard tart in Rossio Square at Pastelaria Suica and watch the world pass by.

See www.zoomato.pt this site is very used by portugueses and the reviews are accurate.
Avoid restaurants in the most touristy areas, they are expensive and not always the best gastronomic experience.

That site looks worthwhile from a quick glance. Obrigado!

I'm back in the US now after a fantastic 5 nights in Lisbon. Will get around to posting some restaurant comments after the holiday.

Looking forward to your comments on Lisbon restaurants.