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What are your restaurant recommendations for Lisbon?

What are your restaurant recommendations for Lisbon?

Old Aug 30th, 2009, 07:37 AM
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What are your restaurant recommendations for Lisbon?

I noticed the thread for the Lisbon Dining Club was recently topped. It was nice to read such thorough reviews of some restaurants in Lisbon. I have been jotting down some restaurants from trip reviews, as well. But since the LDC was an older thread, I thought I would start a new one.

So tell me about your favorites - inexpensive or somewhat expensive. We especially love seafood.

We are staying at the Hotel Dom Pedro, by the Amoreiras shopping center, and his conference is in Belem, near the Coach Museum. So if any good dining is near those locations, that would be helpful to know. Some evenings, we may want the option of a convenient location. Thanks!
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Old Aug 30th, 2009, 08:54 AM
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Hi, Janenicole,

I always keep a list of my favorite Lisbon restaurants for friends who may be going. I know that everyone has their own opinion about what's good or what's inexpensive, but this may help get you started. What follows is the text of an email I just recently sent to a friend:

This is the most current and up to date list I have of my Lisbon favorites, reflecting new openings and closings, etc. (for example, one of my favorite restaurants, the Terreiro do Paco, closed recently and may never re-open). It doesn’t include the standard tourist recommended places like Pap Acorda, Bica do Sapato, etc. I have enjoyed a lot of meals in those places, but you can find them in any guidebook and I focused here on restaurants that are not on every tourist’s radar screen.

A few words about ordering fish. I think Americans (at least those from the US) are frequently put off at the thought of ordering a whole fish, but it is by far the best way to eat delicious fish in Portugal. If you have trouble getting the skin and scales off, the waiter will always do it for you (that was my experience anyway, before I became at least moderately adept at doing this). The bigger the fish, the easier it is to deal with. Waiters will help you with choosing the right fish for you and the number of people, but if my memory's right here, we have found that a kilo is good/generous for two people, and had a 1.8 kilo red snapper that left three of us totally satisfied. Pricing is by the kilo, and you should always feel free to ask the waiter the weight of the fish he brings for you to look at.


Traditional Portuguese (moderate price). These are restaurants whose main dishes are grilled fish and meat, fresh and simple.

O Mercado – Rua Leao de Oliveira, Alcantara (tel. 21 364 91 13). This is in an old market, and it sits directly under one of the huge pylons of the 25th of April bridge. We had some memorable fresh fish dinners here.


Casa dos Passarinhos, Rua Silva Carvalho 195 (tel. 21 388 2346). Old neighborhood favorite, lively and good quality/price ratio. it's in Campo d'Ourique


Regional Portuguese

O Galito, Rua da Fonte, 18-D (Carnide) (tel. 21 711 10 88). Typical Alentejano food.



Tasquinha d’Adelaide, Rua do Patrocinio 70/74, Campo D’Ourique (tel 213 962 239). Food from the northeastern mountains (Tras Os Montes). Excellent lamb, duck rice – not a place for light summer dining!


Portuguese, a bit “upscale”

Restaurante 33, R. Alexandre Herculano, 33-A (tel. 21 354 60 79). One of the nicest outside terraces for eating in Lisbon, very good food. (this is probably in most of the guidebooks, but it’s so nice, especially in the summer, that I included it. Location right near Marques de Pombal is good for many visitors). I once had some very overcooked fish here, and made the decision to tell the waiter and they fell all over me to make things right. I hate doing this but when you pay 23E for an entree, I guess it's within the realm of reasonable.



Charcutaria Francesa, Rua Manuel Bernardes 5a/b (tel. 911033392). Probably my favorite “new find” this year. Right next to the beautiful Praca das Flores, small cozy place, outstanding food – I’d say it’s kind of a “nouveau portuguese” place.



Tasca da Esquina, Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C (tel. 210 993 939). Another great “find.” Recently opened by the chef of the (now closed) Terreiro do Paco, this has become extremely popular within a month of opening. Lots of amazing tapas. HIGHLY recommended. Actually, now that I've been there several times, I'd change my "highly" recommended to a "recommended. The service was terribly slow, and it was difficult because two of the group had ordered standard entrees off the menu, while the rest of us had tapas. They were done with their food long before we got our second round of tapas. The restaurant is still working out the kinds, maybe, and it is incredibly lively and popular. Nice place to be just for the atmosphere, and I can only think that the service will improve.







International

Aya, Rua Campolide, 351 (Twin Towers is the unfortunate name of the building). Probably the best sushi place in Lisbon.



Tamarind, Rua da Gloria, 43-45 (tel 213 466 080). Our favorite Indian place in town.



Hokkaido, Rua Saraiva de Carvalho 184/A (tel. 213 968 127). Cheap sushi, pretty good, very lively.







Pizzarias

Lucca, Travessa Henrique Cardoso, 19B (tel. 21 797 26 87). Good quality, very popular, neighborhood place. Calzones are great, too.



Casanova, Cais da Pedra a Bica do Sapato, Sta. Apolonia (te. 351 21 887 7532). Right on the river across from the train station. Probably edges out Lucca for good pizza IMO. And it has nice outdoor tables right on the river.







Old Standbys:

Adega Sao Roque, Rua da Misericordia, 120 (tel. 213 432 167). Still the best seafood cataplana we’ve found in Lisbon. Very lively place right in the midst of all the action in the Bairro Alto



Restaurante Da Adraga, Praia da Adraga (Almocageme) (tel. 21 928 00 28). Fresh fish served in a little restaurant right on the beach. This is a small beach, and the restaurant is the only building on the beach. Wonderful beach, great food. (Located in between Sintra and Cascais on the western coast, so a bit out of the way, but it’s a good place to go after a Sintra trip or in conjunction with a drive to Cabo da Roca).



Erva de Cheiro, Rua Tomas da Fonseca n. 26A (21 726 21 21). Neighborhood restaurant in a new, pretty charmless part of town, but food is very good, worth a trip. Not far from the Marriott hotel
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Old Aug 30th, 2009, 05:48 PM
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From my trip report:

We ate well in Lisbon except for one meal that shall remain undescribed. Pap'Açorda is a very good, upscale restaurant. My wife noticed a particular flower in the flower arrangement and asked the waiter about it. It turned out that he was the one who had done the arranging, which may have made him somewhat more attentive to our needs. We also had a long discussion with the chef about a particular ingredient because we could not quite believe the English translation. The meal cost us about 100€ for two. We also ate at the Lanterna Verde (bottom of R. do Barão on r. S. Jão da Praça, I believe) where we had grilled sardines, a mixed salad, and a wonderful light slightly fizzy vinho branco from the tap--it was reminiscent of hard apple cider. The restaurant is at the base of the Alfama, and while locals sidle up to the bar, the lunch price was a tourist price--about 30€ for two. La Rosa de Rua, or something to that effect, on the Rua da Rosa has a nice interior and was recommended by a local wine merchant. It was to be neo-Portuguese cuisine that did not quite make it--good but not worth the price. We also had a nice meal in a Argentine restaurant on the Rua Dom Pedro (practically across the street from the Pensão Londres) whose window tables have a fabulous view over downtown Lisbon, but we did not have reservations for that. The staff was a little snotty, it clearly is an upscale restaurant. We also found a local place a few blocks from the hotel that served traditional food, including our first bread and shrimp dish.
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Old Aug 30th, 2009, 06:19 PM
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The Bomjardim is a cheapie in all the guidebooks, but it's also the place I had the second-best chicken ever. (The first-best was years ago in a little Portuguese fishing village.) It's just off the Praca dos Restauradores.

In Sintra I had some good and interesting "black" pork at a place downtown I think was Alcobaca.
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Old Aug 31st, 2009, 04:37 PM
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Thank you for the recommendations and the great details about each one! Thanks for adding one in Sintra, thursdaysd, I know I will be heading there for a day. I may even go there twice - from what I have read, it sounds like my cup of tea!

Any more from anyone else?
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Old Aug 31st, 2009, 06:45 PM
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janenicole. Let me tell you that we have tried several of Laurie's choices and loved them all.
Another we have tried twice is Stop do Bairro, Rua Tenete Ferreira Durao, in the Campo de Ourique area.
First of all let me say that taxis are so inexpensive in Lisbon. And I wouldn't worry about getting to any of the places. Just jump in a cab and hand the taxi driver the name and address of the restaurant.
For example. The first time my husband and I went to Stop do Barrio, we took a bus and then walked with the help of a kind stranger to find it. It took us over an hour.
This time, we took a taxi from Baixa where we stayed to the restaurant and I don't remember how long it took but the taxi ride was about E5. Watch what you order as the portions are large. For four of us we had two half orders, an order of bread and french fries, a small salad and eight beers. The total was E42.
Bonjardim gets snickers from a lot of people, but it is really good chicken and really inexpensive.
Having had the priviledge of attending two LDC events, I must say that it was something I won't easily forget.
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Old Aug 31st, 2009, 06:56 PM
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How is the pizza in Portugal? I rarely eat pizza at home because I don't like thick crust and oily cheese and tons of toppings. If Portugal pizza is as good as what I've had in Rome and in France I'm gonna try it. I'm looking for very thin, crispy crust and a minimum of cheese and sauce.
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 04:48 AM
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Hi, Adrienne, I've listed the two Lisbon pizzarias that we like a lot. Lucca is way off the tourist trail, near the commuter train station at Av. Roma. It is very good, and always very crowded.

Casanova is a more obvious destination, because it is right across from the Santa Apolonia train station and metro stop and has a terrace right on the river. It's a busy bustling place. Pizza is made in a wood oven (as it is in Lucca's) and it's thin and crispy, though not as thin as New York thin crust pizza. If you get there by about 7:30 or so you won't have much of a wait, but after that it gets really crowded.

We went there several times last year and were never disappointed. Lots of different choices on the menu, and the toppings are never piled on under piles of gooey cheese and oil. I think it's worth a try, especially since you'll be on a budget, but I wouldn't say it's as good as what you can get in Italy. L.
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 05:30 AM
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Let me add my thanks to all who recommended these restaurants.

We'll be in Portugal next month and can't wait to try some of these!

Byrd
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 06:56 AM
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Thanks Laurie! I'll probably try both pizzarias as I'll have had lots of Portuguese food prior to arriving in Lisbon and I love my pizza treats in Europe.
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Old Sep 1st, 2009, 09:24 AM
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Good idea, Adrienne,

My 24 year old son, who is a big guy at 6'4" and 190 pounds, almost couldn't finish a calzone he got at Lucca's. So I got to taste it and thought it was quite good. I think the wood oven is one important prerequisite for good pizza, and both Luccas and Casanova have one. Laurie
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 03:01 AM
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Casa dos Passarinhos and Stop do Bairro (both referred above) are among my favourites. Casa dos Passarinhos is the best low cost restaurant in Lisbon and is within a walking distance from Hotel Dom Pedro (5 minutes walking). Stop do Bairro belongs to the same area (Campolide) but a taxi is advisable to get into there (20-25 minutes walking). As a general rule, it's a good policy to arrive 10 to 15 minutes before 8 pm.
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 03:56 AM
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Thanks janenicole.
I'll be back in Lisboa in January, can't wait to try some of your suggestions!
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 04:56 AM
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Thanks for the additional nods and info, Sher and lobo. The more info, the better. Leaving in 9 days - wow!
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 08:24 AM
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Stop do Bairro and Casa dos Passarinhos belong to Campo de Ourique (as correctly pointed by Ireynold1 in her 1st post) and not to Campolide as I mentioned. Sorry to led you to mistake.
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 09:49 AM
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Janenicole:

to add to the eclectic mix...I strongly second ThursdaySD's choice of BomJardim (on the "eating" street) very close to Reatauradores)..it was easily the best chicken (with pungent piri piri sauce...wow) I have had anywhere. Roz agrees...and at KFC prices more or less...OK, more) ...another not-so- hidden gem for grlled sardines and outstanding shrimp/garlic, on the way down the hill from the Castelo, almost to the end, there is a tiny place with an added wooden terrace...and a simple sign stating "Comidos de Santiago"..good place for lunch after traipsing the Castelo grounds

Enjoy Portugal!

stu
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Old Sep 8th, 2009, 09:58 AM
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My favorite restaurant is Olivier! I've sent friends there as well and one of them said it was the best restaurant meal they've ever had, at that price.

My "report" to friends (I always send emails from the road):

I had another amazing meal last night - write this down: Olivier. It is in the NY Times and also Time Out. For 35 euros you get 9 small starters (like tapas) and then the main course. I also had two caipirinhas and their signature dessert for a total of 56E plus tip. (I overtip - another 10E).

One "small" tapas was foie gras on top of carmelized onions. but these weren´t ordinary carmelized onions, they were soaked in port and a touch of raspberry vinaigrette and a "secret ingredient" for 4 hours and then carmelized. The foie gras was the size of a hockey puck, but not as thick. I ate the whooooole thing. Octopus carpaccio, beef carpaccio, puff pastry with goat cheese, honey and walnuts, etc. etc. the main course was juicy/crispy pork of a black pig and mashed potatoes with truffles mixed in (remember - 35 euros!)

Because it was the night of a huge soccer match when I got there, no one was there (huge, meaning: the final determination if Portugal was going to the 2008 euro-match). The waiters had the TV on and were watching the match which worked out fine until the owner showed up and had a hissy. It was funny watching them wrestle over the remote. As people eventually trickled in I figured out that they were in essence feeding me dual portions since they don´t halve anything for single diners. Some things lent themselves to one-person portions, other things (foie gras) clearly did not so I ate a two person portion of foie gras. I am walking a lot so my pants still fit!
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Old Sep 4th, 2010, 07:00 AM
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Because MFNYC has just asked for some recommendations, I'm just bringing this to the top rather than start another list on Lisbon restaurants. This thread is only about a year old. I ate at several of these places in March 2010 and my recommendations still hold. But I'll be back next March and would like to try some new places, so hopefully some of the recent visitors will have some additions.

Laurie
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Old Sep 5th, 2010, 12:29 AM
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Please add Faz Figura Restaurant at Rua do Paraiso, 15B 1100-395 Lisbon (218 868 981). Make reservations. We loved this restaurant so much on Wed last year that we went back with friends the next day for our Thanksgiving Day dinner.

Colcci in Chiado - Rua Ivens 59-61 - new spot with a delightful non-traditional menu. Excellent food, excellent service and good prices.
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 01:00 PM
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Hi!

I’ll post some of my experience as a local and also what the Portuguese main restaurant guides are now (2010) rating as top choices in Lisbon:
(I’ll not duplicate the good tips written in the previous posts)

Lisbon references (top restaurants in Lisbon but not inexpensive…)

Tavares – “The city's oldest in a palatial setting” – Rua da Misericórdia 37. Encarnação.
Baixa. 1200-270 Lisboa - http://www.restaurantetavares.pt/

Panorama - Hotel Sheraton (Lisboa) – “Fabulous view and cuisine by Chef Leonel Pereira” - Rua Latino Coelho, 1 (Sheraton Lisboa Hotel & Spa) Lisboa 1069-025 – Lisboa - http://www.sheratonlisboa.com/pt/restaurantes_bares

Eleven – “A Michelin star-rated contemporary menu” – Rua Marquês de Fronteira (Jardim Amália Rodrigues) Lisboa 1070 – Lisboa - http://www.restauranteleven.com/

Bocca – “Sophisticated and cosmopolite place” Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 87-D, São Mamede. 1250-190 Lisboa - http://www.bocca.pt/

Casa da Comida – “Famous house with an interior garden and cuisine by Chef Bertílio Gomes” Travessa das Amoreiras, 1, 1250-025 – Lisboa - http://www.casadacomida.pt/index_2.html


Good restaurants with more affordable prices

Alfama

Santo António de Alfama – “In the heart of the old Alfama quarter, this little restaurant of a lovely space remains fashionable for more than a decade” Beco de São Miguel, 7 (Alfama) 1100-538 – Lisboa Tlf. 218881328 - http://www.siteantonio.com/site/index.html

Solar dos Bicos – “Typical restaurant with original XVII and XVIII century decorative elements. It has a large terrace area, limited by the presence of a public garden outside and directly overlooking the "Casa dos Bicos”. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 8 A e B, 1100-070 Lisboa Telf: 218869447 - http://www.solardosbicos.pt/


Baixa & Chiado

Largo – “This restaurant caused a stir in the Chiado neighbourhood when it opened earlier this year. Unique cuisine and decoration.” - Rua Serpa Pinto, 10 A, 1200-445 – Lisboa – Tlf. 213477225 - http://www.largo.pt/

Sacramento do Chiado - Café - Restaurante – “It's a restaurant, cafe and bar. It’s also a rustic but modern restaurant” Bar Calçada do Sacramento, 40-46 Chiado) Lisboa 1200-394 – Lisboa Tlf. 213420572 - http://www.sacramentodochiado.com/

La Brasserie de L'Entrecôte – “Romantic atmosphere. The fame of this house was built precisely on the basis of a dish: the Entrecôte with Brasserie sauce made with a fine selection of aromatic herbs served with potato chips. It has a surprising wine list.” - Rua do Alecrim, 117, 1200-016 – Lisboa - http://www.brasserieentrecote.pt/

Café Buenos Aires – “Cafe Buenos Aires is undoubtedly one of the nicest and most welcoming restaurants in Lisbon. In summer it offers a small terrace in Escadinhas do Duque, who welcomes guests outdoors.” - Calçada (Escadinhas) do Duque, 31-B 1200-155 – Lisboa Tlf. 213420739

Casa da Mó – “Refined restaurant with typical Portuguese food stands for more than 130 years in downtown Lisbon (Baixa). After some years of decline back to the list of gastronomic preferences in Lisbon” - Rua Condes de Monsanto, 1,(next to Praça da Figueira) 1100-159 – Lisboa

Príncipe Real & Bairro Alto

La Paparrucha – “Argentinian flavours (that, is good meat) in a cozy restaurant with an esplanade overlooking the city” - Rua Dom Pedro V, 18/20 (Príncipe Real) - 1250-094 – Lisboa - Tlf. 213425333 – www.lapaparucha.com

Sinal Vermelho – “Restaurant placed at Bairro Alto with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and attentive service. A place where you can taste the Portuguese cuisine, at unconventional hours” Rua das Gáveas, 89, (B.Alto) 1200-206 – Lisboa

Casanostra – “At the heart of Bairro Alto, this restaurant, cosmopolitan atmosphere, was the first in Lisbon to present a diverse list of Italian dishes. Opened in 1986” - Travessa do Poço da Cidade, 60 (B. Alto) 1200-334 – Lisboa -http://www.restaurantecasanostra.com/cnostra/index.php

Simplesmente Maria – “Good pizzas. Young informal environment” - Rua da Atalaia, 108 (B.Alto) - 1200-039 – Lisboa Tlf. 213432143

Santos

Alma – “Henrique Sá Pessoa is one of the most publicized Portuguese Chef’s and also the soul of this project. Do not think of a great restaurant, but in an intimate space, elegant, clean with reasonable prices” - Calçada Marquês de Abrantes, 92 – 94 (Santos-o-Velho) 1200-720 – Lisboa -http://alma.co.pt/

Gemelli – “In an environment of extreme elegance Italian chef Augusto Gemelli is in charge of the tasting menus prepared for your surprise (the menus change frequently)” - Rua Nova da Piedade, 99, (next to Palácio de São Bento - the Parliament) 1200-237 – Lisboa - http://www.augustogemelli.com/

Varina da Madragoa - “Restaurant with 30 years of tradition serving nice and typical Portuguese food” - Rua das Madres, 34-36 Santos-o-Velho 1200-711 – Lisboa Tlf. 213965533

Taberna Ideal – “This space recreates the atmosphere of the old taverns, with relaxed and informal atmosphere. It serves good traditional dishes, made with fresh products. Book ahead if you’re in a mood for homemade food served in a restaurant.” - Rua da Esperança 112-114, (Santos-o-Velho) 1200-658 – Lisboa.

Avenida da Liberdade

Solar dos presuntos – “There’s nowhere truer to the country roots or a better bet for its classic dishes. It´s not cheap but it’s worth it” - Rua Portas de Santo Antão, 150 1500-269 –Lisboa - http://www.solardospresuntos.com/

Enoteca - Chafariz do vinho – “A wine bar and restaurant owned by wine critic João Paulo Martins within the secular water tank Mãe d"Água” - Rua da Mãe de Água (Praça da Alegria) 1250-154 – Lisboa Tlf. 213422079 - http://www.chafarizdovinho.com/

Jardim Tropical “The room is decorated with plants, shrubs and trees. Within a narrow lake also comes housed in a garden of tropical flavor.” Avenida da Liberdade, 144-156 Lisboa 1250-147 – Lisboa Tlf. 213212840

Alcântara e Belém

Uai! -“Self-service Brazilian restaurant with cuisine of the state of Minas Gerais. The house specialties are exposed in soap stone pans.. It’s also known for his homemade cachaça. From Thursday through Sunday with live music to liven up meals” - Rocha do Conde de Óbidos - Cais das Oficinas, Armazém 114, 1350-352 – Lisboa - http://www.uai.pt/

Piazza di Mare – “On the edge of Tejo (Tagus) river, this is a place for a light meal on the terrace for dinner or time consuming. Besides the view and terrace, also offers a cozy winter garden. It has an extensive and tempting list of Pastas, risottos, pizzas and salads.” - Avenida de Brasília - Pavilhão Poente 1300-598 – Lisboa – Telf: 213624235 - http://www.piazzadimare.com/

Adega de Belém – “Rustic restaurant with regional Portuguese dishes”. - Rua de Belém, 40, 1300-085 – Lisboa, Tlf. 213639167

Avenidas Novas

La Finestra – “Italian restaurant serving a variety of pizzas with thin crust and crispy, baked in the wood. The dining room, illuminated with skylights, a space is very pleasant and welcoming.”- Avenida Conde Valbom 52-A, 1050-069 – Lisboa. Telf: 217613580

Sem Dúvida – “Modern Seafood restaurant and more” - Avenida Elias Garcia, 1B - 1000-146 – Lisboa Tlf. 217932254


Enjoy and “Bom apetite!”
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