Dreamy Paris....
 

Paris was enchanting! I arrived in Paris at the end of July - solo. Twenty five years earlier, I dined on baguette and cheese and drank wine from a plastic cup. This time I would sit in a cafe and watch the people go by. Fortunately I was able to return to Paris older and wiser...and much more sedate.

I had so much help from the Fodorites here that i wanted to come back and share some of the things I learned. Most of what I can impart comes from traveling solo. So I will start from that point.

In researching for this trip I was very concerned to be traveling completely alone. In the last few years I have taken 3 other trips: Italy with a group tour and twice to the UK where I met up along the way with family and friends. I needed to know that I would be able to walk after dark and feel as safe as possible. So my first point for those women out there who want to travel to Paris and do so, solo...no need to worry. I felt comfortable almost all the time (more about that later). It is such an amazing city for a solo traveler. From the cafes to the transportation, I never felt my trip was compromised because I was traveling alone.

Before I go on I would like to thank all those who contributed to my plans. I don't want to miss anyone so I hope those who I corresponded with, see this trip report. I often reflected how using these forums and then going on the trip is much like reading a book a friend has recommended. You read it on their recommendation but the experience might be completely different. It is the sharing that is so important and pivotal to the experience. More tomorrow.....

Topping to follow this interesting and well written start.

Agreed Nukesafe. This solo visitor to Paris looks forward to the report.

Please don't stop here!

Hi Kelsey22,

I was so happy to see your trip report today. I really appreciated your interest in my account of going solo in Paris two months ago. So glad that you had a positive experience.

Agree with your observation:

“I often reflected how using these forums and then going on the trip is much like reading a book a friend has recommended. You read it on their recommendation but the experience might be completely different.”

Well said – looking forward to more…

Another looking forward to more, as just this morning started a thread asking if folks feel Paris is still the city of charm and romance (meant in the broadest definition of the word) that it's known for.

Waiting.....:-)

Dreamy Paris.......the title is perfect. Reading these posts keeps the feeling alive.

Thank you for all your kind words.

As I was flying in very early in the morning (7ish on a Sunday morning) I booked a shuttle service. I guess I was tired because I just couldn't figure out where I should meet it. I had the voucher with instructions so there was really no excuse for my confusion. I arrived at Terminal 3 and after a bit of wandering around, I met the service and was whisked off to the hotel. I was the problem not the service so I can say with certainty that they were reliable and cost effective. I thought I must have looked quite silly wandering around with voucher in hand - back and forth...luckily, I found the scene quite amusing.

Fast forward to check-in...a delightful hotel on rue Dauphin. Location was foremost for me traveling alone. I spent hours and hours looking for the perfect location. I will add that I had very specific criteria for the hotel location. I love to walk and so I felt that if I could be within walking distance of at least some of the sights, I could make use of all the daylight hours. I learnt from previous trips that if I am near some cafes and restaurants, I tend to make better use of my time. There is much to be said for paying a bit more for that freedom.

The hotel was clean and the room quaint (read small and cosy). I highly recommend the hotel on location alone. A few steps to the Pont Neuf and in the other direction, cafes, bars and Jardin Luxenbourg.

My plan was to drop my bag off and head up the street for a coffee. I was pleasantly surprised to find out my room would be ready in an hour.
Tip #1: Correspond with the hotel a couple of days before arriving.

I then walked up to Jardin Luxenbourg thinking about how I should pay attention to my surroundings, watch my purse and keep an eye out for this and that. I see now that I had read just too much! I had worked myself up and was hyperviligant as I walked toward the Jardin. Overtired and jet-lagged, I sank into a chair - glad to have made it to Paris in one piece and now to be sitting in such a splendid spot - and fell asleep. Yes, I fell asleep...purse in my lap. I awoke with a start. Well...Paris must be safe...and all my fears fell away. All my trepidation melted away. Paris, in all its hustle and bustle, provides these sweet moments when all is right in the world. At least, that is how I felt that moment when I opened my eyes on that sunny Sunday.

Kelsey22, I, too, travel solo much of the time and can't wait to read more of your day to day Paris sojourn. It's got me dreaming about my next trip and I've already been twice this past year! I totally agree that hotel location is of paramount importance as a solo in order to have the freedom to come and go at any time of day or night without worry. Would you mind sharing where you stayed?
Travelchat

I feel like I just ended a chapter in a book and want to keep reading...I can't wait for more!

@travelchat - thank you. I don't mind at all. I had a wonderful stay and would recommend this hotel. It is called Hotel Dauphine St Germain. I am not sure if posting link is allowed but it is easily googled. I stayed on a higher floor in the back.

@Stellar424 - That was so nice of you to say!

@latedaytraveler - I am glad you posted. It was quite the coincidence we had stayed in the same hotel especially as we share so many of the same interests.

I hope to post more later on today. So much to say and I don't want to bore.

Reading about Paris boring? Never. Every experience lets us in on a different point of view. Post on! =D>

More please!

Ditto. More please. There are many of us on this forum for whom a Paris Trip Report will NEVER be a bore.

I look forward to more of your observations.

I am writing on the eve of my return to work after being off for over a month. I feel the pull of the city tonight perhaps more than ever. I have traveled to some very lovely cities. Rome was like a living museum. I was actually brought to tears on several occasions. Venice was a pearl and it is still on my bucket list as I didn't have enough time there. There was Florence, London, Copenhagen, Jerusalem, Athens, and the smaller cities and towns. So what was it about Paris that makes me yearn to go back? Perhaps someone can help here...

One of the favorite parts was the walkability of the city. I wish I had taken a pedometer, if nothing more than to impress my teenagers! Take good shoes and more than one pair. I would often change shoes two or three times a day. Cobblestones might be charming but they are awful on the feet.

Tip #2 - Bring all kinds of bandaids, moleskins and do visit a pharmacy to get the best blister packs I have ever used.

The first few days I would walk along the Seine every morning to welcome the day with the sight of Notre Dame. It really doesn't matter if you are surrounded by hundreds of tourists.

On my first few days, I walked (of course)over to Shakespeare and Co. and purchased the book. "The Most Beautiful Walk in the World" by John Baxter. I highly recommend it for a trip to Paris.

I remember studying the history of the flaneur back in university. I finally understood how a stroll could be so enjoyable. If you have ever walked in Paris, I am sure you understand completely. Is there anything more enjoyable than walking, no, strolling on a magnificent day, taking in the sights, surrounded by history every step of the way?

I spent two of my days in Paris just walking aimlessly. getting lost, taking photos and stopping for a chocolate or a coffee when I got tired. And where else can you be sipping a glass of wine on a patio with a Jack Russell eyeing your bread basket?

Ahhh Paris - thank you for these memories.....

MY solo trips were the best.
Paris is a poem pressed into a city.
This is attributed to more than one person.
But, it's true.

Two weeks until I am strolling the streets of Paris...your descriptions are adding to my excitement!

Love your report.I just finalized my plans for my annual 6 week solo trip to France and Italy May-June 2013.

I use mileage so I must plan early to get the flights that I want.

I will be in dreamy fabulous Paris for 17 days and even though this is about my 20th or more trip to Paris, I am looking forward to any hints or suggestions you may have.

I always wear a pedometer and usually shocked at night at the amount I have walked.

I have been very fortunate to celebrate my last 5 birthdays in Paris and next year I will celerate my 83rd birthday in Paris. Even traveling alone it is a magical place to celebrate.

I've been trying to work up the nerve to do a solo trip to Paris. This report and all of these comments are giving me a little shove in that direction. I was thinking how lucky everyone is to be so young and able to do this, and then I read tdk's comment. I'm truly inspired!

beautiful trip report. Thank you for sharing.

Will be in Paris in a month's time !!! LOVE reading your trip report Kelsey. Just walking and looking ... Isn't that what traveling is all about? Through your eyes and into your mind, heart and memory vault. I so hope I can celebrate my 83rd birthday in Paris. tdk320n you inspire me too,
Marise

Stopping by to say thanks for all the comments. I will post the next few days later on today. I have to get my notes in order so I don't send anyone astray. :)

Musee Rodin....

I found one of my favorite museums. The garden is absolutely breath taking. There are places to sit and a cafe to have something yummy in this little oasis.

Rodin's pieces are placed amongst this garden. Of course, The Thinker is a popular photo op. It seems that everyone had to have their photo taken next to it. Don't get me wrong, I would probably have done the same, if I had visited this first. Instead, I bypassed it to go to the other end of the garden. So imagine a garden so pristine and peaceful and being struck by a figure so tragic that you must stop looking for a moment to regain your composure. That was my impression of some of Rodin's works. I spent ages looking at the hands and fingers of his figures.

Walking through the garden brought me back to Villa Borghese in Rome where I fell in love with Bernini's work. I have never studied art history and certainly never thought that sculpture would intrigue or haunt me as these two artists have. I digress, once again....

One of the highlights of my visit was watching a man meticulously sketch on the figures. I must say I was so jealous that he would have such a lovely souvenir of his visit.

Many Fodorites encouraged me to take the time to visit this museum and I am so grateful for the suggestion. I might not have taken the time from d'Orsay or the Louvre, but it ended up being one of my favorite places in Paris.

I can't say I left feeling peaceful or serene. I felt something more and I was glad to have felt so much. Traveling solo is often like that.

Very much enjoying this enchanting report, kelsey22. I've been pondering the idea of returning to Paris solo. DH is still working. And tdk320n - you are indeed inspiring!

@elnap29 - Thanks so much. Isn't tdk32On an inspiration? After 20 trips to Paris, I think I should be reading her posts! I hope you do a solo trip. If you have been to Paris before, it will be a piece of cake!

Tip #4,5,6 etc...

Some information I found useful:

1. Museum Pass - I found the pass very useful. I think it depends on your love of museums and stamina. I felt a bit rushed with a 4 day pass. I used one full day at Versailles. The rest I will get to in my report. I went back to the Louvre after a bit of a walk so I could reenter quickly with the pass. I also visited the musee Cluny twice. I definately got my money's worth but the value was in the fast entry. I am not fond of waiting in lines so it was worth it for that alone. The longest I waited was 10 minutes.

2. I took a private tour my first couple of days. She drove me around the city and it gave me an overview. I was lucky enough to have 14 days in Paris. This 4 and half hour tour (approx) was great in that I was then able to orient myself and decide which areas I wanted to explore in more depth.

3. Carnet - I bought a carnet - but it was so much fun walking around that I ended up coming home with 6 tickets....I am hanging onto them. I think I would have used the metro more if the weather hadn't cooperated.

4. Metro - I am from Montreal where the metro system is similar. I had no problem navigating the subway system (as I had feared). It is highly efficient and safe. I loaded an app on my ipod before I left and I used it for my few voyages. It was very helpful.

5. Trains to Versailles and Giverny - Use the train - go by yourself. It was super easy! Go early so you can spend the day at Giverny. I hadn't realized it was so pretty. The buses run every 2 hours??? and the walk back to town to catch the train, while doable, would have been long at the end of a day of exploring.

As for Versailles, easy by train and thank you to anyone who gave me tips on Versailles. Personally, I could have spent an extra day there. The grounds are massive. Don't underestimate how much time you need to explore the gardens. I took the advise of my private tour guide and toured the gardens first. She claimed the line would be shorter later in the day. I am not so sure about that but it wasn't too bad. It is very, very crowded inside. I was there in August though.

I went to Versailles with my pass and I bought a ticket for Monet's house from home before I left. There is no set date so you can choose a nice, sunny day to go.

We were in Paris in August, too, & we bought the 4-day Paris Museum Pass, which was very practical & the way to go, IMO. We walked right into the Louvare, D'Orsay, Rodin & Orangerie museums, & the Cluny. Also used it to see Notre Dame & Versailles. We only had one hour to spend in the Rodin before it closed for the day, & if we didn't have the pass, we might not have bothered to stop in for an hour. So glad we did, & so glad we bought the Museum Pass.

I am enjoying reading your report! I absolutely love Paris, & we walked everywhere, too. Only used the metro a few times.

Hi Kelsey,

Still following your delightful account. Fourteen days in Paris – WOW! Your TR is obviously encouraging others to go solo in Paris. As Celiaanne wrote:

“I've been trying to work up the nerve to do a solo trip to Paris. This report and all of these comments are giving me a little shove in that direction. I was thinking how lucky everyone is to be so young and able to do this, and then I read tdk's comment. I'm truly inspired!”

Agreed – let’s hear it for Tdk320n – still going strong at 83. As I have said on my recent Paris TR, going solo is an acquired taste. In my past European ventures, I have traveled a few times with my adult daughters and often with two great fun friends who are no longer interested in these excursions.

Planning is such an important dimension to travel. Kelsey, glad that your trip turned out so well.

Kelsey, thank you for your delightful trip report. I'm following along and eagerly anticipating your next installment. Of my 12 trips to Paris, 8 have been solo. I LOVE traveling solo, especially to Paris. I find I see more, experience more, soak up more when I'm not chatting away with a companion. I also walk & explore more because no on I have traveled with likes to just walk and ramble like I do. I'm so glad you enjoyed the Rodin. Isn't it glorious? I didn't get there until my 10th trip. Now, no trip to Paris even in the winter is complete without a visit to those glorious gardens.

Dee_Dee - thank you for your encouragement! I will always go back to the gardens. I know this...I wonder how it will look as my own life changes. I hope to do a winter trip to Paris. I am looking at the Air France flights now - I must say I am toying with the idea even though I really can't afford it now. I hope you continue to read. My next installment "Paris in the rain"...I knew I was smitten with Paris when I delighted in walking in a downpour!

@latedaytraveler - So nice to know you are following along! I hope that my own solo experience will encourage others to not fear traveling alone.

Kelsey - so glad to hear you are considering a winter trip! I don't know where you live (US???), but if so, you may want to wait until October to book. The middle of October 2011, Air France put flights from DC to CDG on sale for only $696 RT including all taxes & fees! Other carriers matched the same price. The sale was good for immediate travel through winter months. They started the sale on Wednesday. Friday morning I booked an unplanned 1 week trip for the first week of November! Of all my trips to Paris, only 1 other (many, many years ago) was during the winter. I LOVED my November week. At first I was soooo dissapointed the weather was not ideal. While not cold, it rained two days and all others were cloudy and mostly sunless. But, soon I changed my opinion. I found the rather dreary backdrop to be a perfect contrast to the glories of the city - the architecture, the Parisians, the store shops & window displays and of course the food. Parisians still congregated at outdoor cafes and the wonderful parks. There was a palatable energy in the city with all the Parisians home from vacation, university students back at school and far fewer tourists. I found there to be absolutely wonderful special exhibits in the city not there during summer months when so many are on vacation. And, the city was already decorating for Christmas. Galeries Lafayette was fully decked out and packed with shoppers. I so enjoyed my November week I'm planning on going back again this year. I do hope you will be able to take a fall or winter trip and enjoy a different vibe. It's wonderful!

kelsey - just found your TR.

I'm right there with you and i'm waiting for more!

I loved the Most Beautiful Walk in the World! Great book for the Paris lover.

Agree with you on the museum pass...so convenient.

I am jealous over Givrny...have not made it there yet but dream of doing so. I have been to Paris over Thanksgiving and Christmas and loved both times! Good luck on your winter trip. I will have to go another time of year to get to Giverny!

Annig and Denisea - so glad you are following my TR!

I am jealous over Givrny...have not made it there yet but dream of doing so. >>

me too. it's odd because we could have gone on many occasions but something "better" has always come up.

I must put it further up my list!

I can't wait to hear more. I am hoping to visit Paris for a short solo trip next June. I love all of the great advice.