Not bad.


(Just kidding)

Ahhh !!! zebec, Thank you so much for posting the link in the Lounge, 'cause like dcd said I would have missed this lovely picture ladened trip report.

Man , you sure took a lot of beautiful pictures, of people ,food and architectural places.

Love all the comments of the pictures.

I could have gone where you went and never would have taken many of those picture.

So Thank You for entertaining us with your picture taking ability

I am am done: The Unique Photographer

Great report. By the way that "stylish man in Paris" looks like the late Anthony Bourdain needing a haircut.

I wonder if the guy we saw building a plane in his garage in Amboise ever got the thing finished, out of his garage and flying. I would have paid good money to see him get it out of the garage!

We stayed at the camper place over the river which was perfect for watching the chateau turn gold in the light of the setting sun.

Wow, Zebec - thank you so much for this sublime TR. And thanks for mentioning it on the other thread.

Just so fabulous zebec. Too many magnificent photos to single any out, but I certainly enjoyed looking at them and reading your captions. Bravo to your wife's talent too. I shall continue following along.

So Savonniere ('soap-maker'---take that Paul McCartney!) et aussi Montresor.
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This section is dedicated to those of travelers who have rounded third base and are wondering how much longer they'll be able to travel across oceans.
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As elsewhere, visitors to France have itinerary decisions to make: how much time spent in big cities versus the countryside?
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The French hinterland has...
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...much to offer.
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We arrived early in sleepy Savonierres, so out came the sketchbook, out came the walking trail map and the ipod was cued to play relaxing music including Nick Drake's 'River Man'. The lazy Cher river parallels the Loire just south. Good views of Soulas hamlet were had from the bridge. A local tourist family arrived, mom and the kids driving while dad lay back on his recumbent bicycle. We were asked to take their group photo.
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Later on, we dined at 'Maison Tourangelle' restaurant, as recommended by our Tours landlords. Chevre goat cheese gelato was just one of the tasty things we ordered.
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About the only sound by the river was the bees. Then a group of LOUD Mallard ducks arrived. A local mom and her toddler daughter arrived to view the ducks then walked away. We caught up with them to hand over the doll that the kid had dropped.
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The village is known for its collection of traditional 'gabarre' sailboats, the kind seen elsewhere in France (i.e. Dordogne). They were found at the Promenade sur la Cher and its Batelier Barrage Port. At the nearby actual barrage/dam, Mrs Z had a chat with a local dad and his adult son. The three of them were right next to an odd trio of sculpted skeletal dogs. The latter 'art' was painted a ghostly white and the canines were posed beside a watermark chart.
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Some of those gabarre craft displayed elaborate flags and/or intricately carved attachments.
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One boat reminded us of the cover on a children's book back at our Tours rental.
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History majors could tell you the tale of the doomed young medieval lovers Tristan and Iseult. This book sat beside a private library including old Asterix books plus Tin Tin and more.
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In addition to gabarre boats and cute black kittens, we chanced across a woman's incredible tiered garden. It had a wide variety of flora including an ancient thick vine branch spread right across an old stone wall. We wanted to congratulate the lady gardener there by the Impasse de Vaugele, but she seemed in a hurry. This oh-so fragrant rose was the only image we could capture that did justice to her magnificent (but shady) jardin.
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One could conceivably do a 2-fer by combining Savonnierres with the rose champion village Chedigny. It is also located quite close to Villandry, Azay, Chinon and Sache. On the advice of my old boss and his Nice-born partner, we had intended to dine at the latter's esteemed Auberge du XXIIieme Siecle, but that restaurant turned out to be the sole place on our list that closed down for the Toussaint break. The Greeks have a saying: 'The donkey has one set of plans. And God has another.'
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By the City Hall.
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It would be impossible not to mention la guerre in any meaningful TR about this area. There once existed a kind of Underground Railroad organization that at great risk, aided in efforts to defeat the Nazis.
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A number of local Loire residents were part of that operation, bravely assisting Jews, downed allied airmen plus the resistance. One could watch the excellent French TV series 'Un Village Francais', one of the best depictions of that war's inconvenient grey areas.
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En route to Montresor village, one passes the 12C Chartreuse du Liget. Spot the dog.
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On the first day that we visited Montresor, it was dull and overcast. The Indrois river appeared bored and yawning. The chateau and its ruined fortress neighbor looked tired and unappealing.
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But the following day when we returned--nous sommes du soleil! The must-must-must-do activity here is to stroll the Balcons de l'Indrois riverside trail. Bring your sketchbook. Not for nothing is one of the bridges called Pont Peinture. There are a couple benches. This is why we fly across oceans. The wonderful trail leads one directly to the aforementioned restaurant Ecole Gourmande.
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Montresor punches above its weight for compelling views.
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The view from the tiny bridge and the Belier 'ram' hydraulic dam close to that restaurant. The only other sit-down place to eat in Montresor is the Cafe de la Ville, run by a young man. The poor guy visits Rebecca at the local Tourism Office at the start of each week to report on which days/hours he may be able to open. The post-covid era had decimated businesses like his as they struggle to keep staff.
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For ever-changing views, visitors should walk all the way to the Gardener's Bridge. Montresor has preserved its historic past well and there were some dreamy waterside residences. I don't mean the monied kind. instead the appeal is more location-based and I dunno, 'folksy'.
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The bucolic meadows here were once the site of the 1923 Agricultural Fair. At that event, hero explorer Maurice Billy re-enacted his recent Sahara crossing with his big, caterpillar-tracked Citroen vehicle. Earlier at the 1911 equivalent fair, pilot Janor tried to demonstrate his Beriot-style monoplane but it would not function til the following day, after the crowds had gone home.
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Added value can be found at the village's historic Carders hall, the old woolmarket. There underneath the mansard roof and timber frames, one finds the free exhibit of rare and colorful 'gemmail' art. The creations are like cousins of stained glass except that this kind is backlit to unique effect. Gaugin and also Picasso were but two 20C artists who experimented in gemmail.
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Cutesy jardin decor by the boulangerie that claims to have once invented macarons. The nearby village of Cormery takes issue with that claim as it purports to have once been the real inventors.
[img alt="Impasse (blind alley) de Nicolas Potocki with St. Roch church behind. *Shutterbugs DO NOT miss this corner up on the trail leading to the chateau. The views there are 360 degree excellent. In all directions. Our third image at the very start of this TR (i.e. vertical view with red vine and old buildings) was taken immediately to the right here.
*Next: The Senses--ways of knowing the Loire."]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1325/loire_2025_200_b6cf9606d7bf45fb1abda4a0b82d92b4713 a68c1.jpg[/img]
Impasse (blind alley) de Nicolas Potocki with St. Roch church behind. *Shutterbugs DO NOT miss this corner up on the trail leading to the chateau. The views there are 360 degree excellent. In all directions. Our third image at the very start of this TR (i.e. vertical view with red vine and old buildings) was taken immediately to the right here. *Next: The Senses--ways of knowing the Loire.

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This is the shot associated with that above garbled caption.

As usual, you set the scene and it is a delight to read your stories/ view your photos.

Music plus Art Scandals.
Three members of the modern brass quintet 'Magnifica' performing live outside as part of the 35th Anniversary 'Sonates d'Automne' in Loches. L-R Alain LeBosse on the 'cor' French horn, Michel Barre on one of the two types of small trumpet he was to play and on tuba, Benoit Fourreau. Later that same night, we attended the 'Jardine Feerique' classical concert by 'Psophos' feat. Japanese pianist Etsuko Herose with announcer/clarinetist Philippe Berrod, violincellist Guillaume Martigne and director jean-Christophe Gayot (Satie's 'Je te vieux' Gnossienne *our personal fave plus Ravel and Debussy). Their performance was within the warmer climes of St. Antoine, home also to that Art Scandal.

Not long ago, the pair of Caravaggio paintings within the gallery were discovered to be fakes. The Loches Mayor has been guarded about the exact nature of the forgeries. The zany images following show some members of an amateur brass act which was part of Azay's annual Fall fest. The mayor lady allowed us access to their last-minute tune-up. *See after that some medieval music from the area.
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Ways of Knowing the Loire: the senses

SIGHTS
-thrice weird clouds: we saw remarkable big skies with exceptional um, cloudage, on three separate days.
-Halloween: in Tours we saw a number of costumed kids with their parents; one pair of brothers wore impressive animal outfits, with the older bro appearing as an impressive 'loupe' (wolf)--can you guess which prey the lil bro was?
-gotta repeat: that odd Loire swimmer, like a hallucination appearing suddenly in the cold river.

SMELLS
-bespoke Armenian paper strips made in Paris; they smelled like an exotic cinnamon.
-fresh bread being baked at any number of boulangeries.
-the public outdoors pissoir in central Tours; an unexpected sight and smell!
-aromatic fleurs here and there; one powerful example was the tiny pink blossoms of the 'Oranger Amer' citrus tree.

TASTES
-Saumur shallots.
-Anjou pears.
-Limousin apples (yellow).
-orange cake at Ch. Gaillard.
-pike/perch 'sandre' with beurre blanc sauce.

SOUNDS
-birdsong from Bluehead and Blackhead tits, Martin kingfishers, Lovebirds, doves and starlings.
-the swissssh of dried autumnal leaves from say plane trees and the like.
-local patois wherein 'Breton' was pronounced 'bairrrrton'.
-Tours masseuse Estelle's ambient music compile.

TOUCHES
-Mrs Z's new silk scarf.
-that ancient Loches wooden staircase on our bare feet.
-the cold metal feel of little lizard casts, the historic motif for a number of local places.
-the smoothness of le verre Bulle drinking glasses from Biot, as found at our Tours rental; *the irony: we didn't know it then but we'd be visiting Biot a mere three months later!

*Next: some Taxi reccos.

'Call me a taxi!'
Response: "You're a taxi."



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Hassan
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Jeremie the birthday boy
:
Hassan (Liberty) *pictured 0612773250
His pal Jeremie (Taxi Plus) *also pictured
Kwame (Gnamien in Paris) *already pictured at start--068447933.

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Welcome Back My Friends to the TR That Never Ends! Some depictions of people follow, then more portraits. First, some art from a public poster board. The above Loches lady basically says, "I don't give a fuck if you don't approve of me! And...given who my critics are, why would anyone care what they have to say anyway?"
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Becassine was a character in a popular turn of the century comic strip. Her Breton housemaid character was portrayed without a mouth. Her (nick)name was a combo of bird names amounting to 'fool'--refined Parisians looked down on Bretons. But over time she became depicted more favourably.
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Eventually little French girls could buy Becassine dolls.
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Continuing with the French female theme...How many of the French femmes on this magazine cover can you identify? Note that poor Gisele Picot's memoir will be published soon.
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How many of these French men can you ID?
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Histoire...as seen at Loches' Museum Lansyer.
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Proust pour tous. From our Tours rental.
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A class on a field trip excursion to Tours.
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Tours market pals.
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A Loches man.
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A young lady.
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Angers family.
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Tours couple.
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Tours man.
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Vouvray family.
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This Tours senior approached us and insisted that we take his photo.
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Azay boy, father and grandpa.
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A cheery man in St. Pierre des Corps.
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Tours fellow on windy day.
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Tours buddies. Spot Mrs Z.
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More Tours pals.
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Two Tours police on horseback. *Funny story. They surreptitiously approached a friend's hair salon in a back alley, then inched their steeds right up to the window. Customers having their hair done noticed and grinned but the stylist pal/salon owner did not. When the cops tapped on the window with a baton, the haircutter turned then jumped back in surprise to see huge horse heads so close!
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Unique depiction of an Amboise historical figure.
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We'll soon conclude with a bit of Tours and a chunk of Chateau Gaillard.

So before we conclude, a big MERCI to all above who have viewed our TR. May your roads go on forever...

Coq: what did you mean by being 'in a travel rut'? Je ne comprends pas.
Tom, gracias. Good to see you apparently up and at 'em. OUI OUI, a Bourdain-esque resemblance was precisely why I took that shot (from a moving taxi). *viewers will enjoy Tom & Tracy's new Spanish TR.
Heti, might you know more about those laws regarding daytrip tour van minimum client requirements?
Swandav, danke for your kind words. *Viewers will enjoy their current Alsace/Bavaria TR.

Ade, again thank you and please tell us where you are soon off to. Bon Voyage in any case.
Bok, thank you too--are you off anywhere soon as well?
Barb merci beaucoup for that shoutout and does your injury mean that you are putting travel on hold?

Shel, s'il vous plait: tell us all more about Le Quincy. We do not know it.
Frequent flyers Paq, ANUJ et bien sur KW: where are each of you off to? Would you each mind sharing with us all?
Rhon, do you live in France or have you ever? You seem to be well-informed that way.
TDude, what are your travel plans? Do you intend to voyage anywhere soon, including the States themselves?
Schmerl, once more I thank you too for taking the time to respond here. We are glad that you have enjoyed this TR.

Well, I guess that's all. Best wis... Kidding.

PJTravels, I know that we read mention of your recent or upcoming trip, but for the life of me I canna recall where that was. Care to share?
Percy, that 'little devil' (not our Fra here) just sent us a text offering to sell all your personal banking info. Thought you should know.

Dcd, thank you very much for once again looking through our TR. You ask about portraiture. I place a premium on people shots and am willing to put in the extra effort with total strangers who tolerate my inconsistent French/Italian/Shona whatever. India was where such effort paid off the most. Portraiture there included seniors, kids, musicians, guides, entertainers, folks with spina bifida and also lepers. With the latter pair, I stressed that their portraits were meant to be shared with my students as part of our classroom's upcoming India Open House presentation, a smash success if ever. (through my interpreter guides) "He wants to take your picture cos he teaches kids with special needs who may benefit from seeing that they are not alone in living with challenge."
There was also a personal gag photo that I treasure.

I'm sorry. Fra who?

Such a great report and stunning photos! Our next trip is a walk on the Dales Way in England in an attempt to find a bit less elevation gain for my bum knee. After that, this fall will find us in France. The original thought was Brittany, but we have switched that to Marseille, Lyon, someplace to be determined, and Paris. I look forward to your future TRs.

What wonderful report! What great photography! Such fabulous portraits you included; you are gifted. Thank you for sharing your trip with us; I enjoyed every minute.

zebec, you have surpassed yourself once again! Such wonderful and unique photos! I especially appreciated your additional photos of Montresor! Your first photo of Post #47 is gorgeous! And, as much as we all love blue skies, I also really like your photo of Montresor with its "dull & overcast skies". Your photo entitled "view from the tiny bridge" is my memory of Montresor. We walked along that very path. The musician photos are especially entertaining and fun!

As for our 2026 travels, in March we spent 2 weeks in warm weather . . . just had to leave the frozen north! First we were in Key West, then the French Caribbean island of Guadelupe, and last but not least, South Beach, Miami. (I posted some photos on the "Landscape, Architecture and Monument" thread in the Lounge.) In less than 2 weeks, we will depart for Ireland and Northern Ireland, where we will spend 3 weeks. Then, in July, we have an upcoming trip to Yellowstone NP and Grand Tetons NP.

And, in 2027, we are doing something very different for us. I just booked us with a tour group (Can you believe it?) to South America. We've never been to SA, and as much as I love planning our trips, I needed a break from trip planning for this one. We'll see how it goes . . . .

Once again zebec, thanks for this fantastic trip report!!

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Thank you again for riding along Schmerl, *TW-of the-pink-sand and frequent flyer KW. Time to wrap up Tours.
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Tours had a fair amount of street art. Was the added ANTIFA slogan here part of the original artist's intent?
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Cafes and restaurants abound downtown, which is where you'll want to be on any visit here.
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The Luftwaffe wiped out a chunk of Tours. But starting in '66, that area was sensitively restored. The shiny new N-S tram-streetcar runs along the vibrant shopping street of rue Nationale/Ave Grammont.
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The undisputed heart of Vieux Tours (silent 's' btw) is famous Place Plumereau (aka Plum i.e. ploom). Try breakfast here at #9, the Vieux Murier cafe shown here. Just chillin' out there with a coffee and croissant is very relaxing.
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Bring your sketchbook or camera. This is a very picturesque location. From the half-timbered 'pan de bois' facades shown here (#s 1-7) to the stone bust on display at #12, the visual draw is both strong and authentic. The tightly packed cluster of 15C buildings speaks to the wealth from the Middle Ages silk trade.
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Speaking of which, the silk scarf that Mrs Z bought there at Les Pipelettes Chaussures shop @pl. de la Resistance.
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Place Plum is known also for some unflattering wooden carvings of both men and women. Shown here are the medieval money lenders @#11 and #12. This one's face has been removed over the years.
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Note how they are depicted as standing atop the poor every day shmuck. A similar carving there of St. Martin shows him holding a staff (representing the church) while doing the same.
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Those in seeking solace and peace could do a lot worse than the Tours Botanical garden. It is best described as equal parts jardin and public park.
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St. Gatien Cathedral had a funeral the day that we went by it.
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Farewell Tours.
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Farewell Azay too. *Next: Chateau Gaillard in Amboise, then our conclusion with that tiny pinch of Paris.