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Douceur: a Loire valley TR
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Do you fancy travel to far-off destinations like west Africa? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a5fe3df1d.jpg Do you clamor to visit distant lands say, like the 'stans? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c379f528e1.jpg Well that's too bad. This TR will be about the Loire valley in France. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a65c86a1e8.jpg Bonjour fellow travelers. Mrs Z and I visited the Loire area this past fall 2025. It was our first time there in that valley of kings and their castles or chateaux. It was also the first time that my wife had any interest in combining some of her own imagery with mine for an 'insolite' or TR. This new combo approach will also feature in our Antibes snowbird report later this year. Our overview follows. |
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Our Paris Pullman airport hotel room was tight and we were dog-tired. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1382a01d5.jpg Douceur means a kind of sweet tenderness. This trip was an autumnal affair, involving all of October into early November. We TGVed down to St. Pierre des Corps then taxied to our first rental gite Jean d'Arc in little Loches ('loush' or maybe lush--I never figured it out). As always, we self-catered. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...081eabae03.jpg Rafael of Tours. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da7af73299.jpg Pernel of Paris. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e87fc73ccf.jpg Kwame, also of Paris. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...706d5ee114.jpg Before and after. This is a traditional Loire 'torteau', a sort of cheesecake bread no longer so easy to find. It is also known as 'blackentop'. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bccee6f7ae.jpg This is a torteau after partial consumption. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05ddc28472.jpg This Loire TR will feature a dedicated Food/Drink section later on. Shall we call it 'Cafe de la Ville'? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0021620d1d.jpg Our gite Jean d'Arc had a rare, centuries-old original wooden staircase. Not something that one sees every day in a rental. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa1386bf7a.jpg More before and after. This the the merci note that we left for our wonderful Loches host Marie-Christine. Renters may just receive an invite for coffee at her nearby Loches home. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ede903d75.jpg Our second rental was later on in the city of Tours. It was a fantastic splurge and we'll report more about it later on in this TR. Seen here is the view from one bedroom. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...324f36df49.jpg Our daytrips included some of the usual suspects, such as Amboise plus the lovely and monumental Chenonceau shown here. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d66a2be8c2.jpg We took a tour boat tour from Chisseaux to see that justly-famous architectural gem. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d852769f6.jpg As above iconic castle. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aad4f9e3c1.jpg Other destinations were not so well-known, such as the 12C Chartreuse St. Jean du Liget. Another such less-popular place was quiet Savonniere. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a5133a5af4.jpg Our fave was Montresor, so peaceful that we returned on back-to-back days. Locals will tell you that the delicious 'macaron' was invented here. We'll show more about this village later. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...141eeb1ba0.jpg An annual fest in Azay-le-Rideau. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c678fe84f.jpg A tiny pinch of Paris also awaits viewers at the end of this looooong TR. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81424bb8af.jpg Stylish man in Paris. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ec8f6a251.jpg Some old (Tours). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82b5a3229f.jpg Some new (le Marais). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cba409e83f.jpg Time for our first musical interlude, included due to the sounds of its initial church bells. Surely you too have experienced wonderful mornings abroad. |
Trip Report flag and France tag added
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Book reccomendations:
Michelin Green Guide (see next photo) Wine and Food Guide to the Loire, a classic by Jacqueline Friedrich Chateaux de la Loire (Gallimard) Fodors France Rough Guide France Frommers France Au Nom de la Loire by C. Dedesieux Eating and Drinking in Paris by Andy Herbach *Jeu de Paume by Sabine Weiss; an excellent B&W photo collection book of her early 20C work inc. Paris |
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Two maple candies atop the Michelin guidebook. In Tours, we received an unexpected visit from a trio of local adolescent ice hockey players. They were canvassing for their team's upcoming February tournament in Laval, Quebec. Pretty ironic, yeah? We are Canucks and Mrs Z originally hails from Montreal-close to Laval. The boys were wonderful and we gave them a cash donation plus a big bag of Canadian flag pins to share with their teammates. They in turn gave us the (assumedly Canadian) candy! |
Oh, zebec… what a start! Sublime photos as always.
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Let's look at Loches. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07962cbea7.jpg The gite was on a street featuring bookstores and cafes. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99466197f4.jpg The rental was just off to the far left, facing the turreted Porte des Cordeliers (i.e. Franciscan friar's knotted cord belt). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e55bd4f007.jpg Just as close was the Tour St. Antoine. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5850f6b2c4.jpg This Asian cafe had just opened across the street from our gite. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35065be8f6.jpg One thing that both of rentals on this trip shared was proximity to a number of top-quality public gardens. Seen here is the Indre river en route to the nearby Public Garden. Michelin rates the views from that garden to be the best in town. No argument here. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e30cec90ce.jpg At that wonderful jardin, we met this friendly woman with her chien. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...851e976e91.jpg He was a Bitcoin salesman but all his promo didn't convince us to buy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e689b8ce91.jpg Typical French cafe at Place de l'Hotel de Ville. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9d61eced7.jpg *An essential lane to stroll in Loches during the fall: Mail du Donjon. We returned more than once. This white residence was called 'la Deviniere' (the guesser). The owners had created a circular inset mid-wall to display a little pink dollhouse! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a2db3d8b3.jpg The lane shown in the previous picture is part of the absolutely essential Medieval City, an upper area that is the highlight of any Loches visit. So calm. So interesting. So tastefully preserved. A tiny community still resides up there. Shown here is the Loches Chateau, best appreciated from the outside with an art brush or camera or sketchpad or musical device in hand. Dog enthusiasts will find historic stone canine sculpture on its periphery. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e555f6e98b.jpg We bought this bookmark from the Gift Shop. It is an 'Anne of Bretagne papier fait a la cuve' (paper made in vat) item. |
So many places to discover, so little time! Definitely along for this ride! Beautiful photos.
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Please walk this way for some more Loches. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4b40482f7.jpg Loches provides travelers with a two-fer: it serves as a great base (train station) but also doubles as an attraction in and of itself. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3d5590127.jpg It is located in the Sud Touraine area, which locals will explain is very significant. We gathered that for the French, Sud Touraine is one of the nation's heartlands for 'La France Profonde' or purest expression of French culture. Certainly the most perfect French is spoken here and locals appreciated Mrs Z's attempts to speak with the proper accent. Citizens here can sometimes speak in a ribald patois. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7024c676b.jpg Even a normal public garden here has a wide variety of trees and flowers that are tended by pros. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6d3ed422a.jpg The Marjorams, immediately next to that garden. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6012f4e42.jpg Le Chateau. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34acca00ed.jpg Here, history literally surrounds the visitor. Dig that arrow gone right through the centaur trying to escape with the lady. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5623879e7e.jpg Sometimes the history gets mixed with abstract art installations. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79606ec701.jpg A historic clothing factory reflected in water. Loches has its own spa not far off from this spot. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66274e3d8b.jpg Shields and pageantry. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77a05069e2.jpg When history has been left so intact, the visitor benefits from atmosphere not available back home. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d596ca87a.jpg "...he never met a reflection that he didn't like..." https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7a19747df.jpg My angel come down to earth, wearing an original Tilly Hat. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68acd32711.jpg One of her sketch paintings. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8bc70b9ff3.jpg Stained glass in Collegiale St. Ours. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf3ff5130b.jpg Pair of glass portraits in the Loches Chateau. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21cc8245ca.jpg See our Montresor village section further down the report here for more stained glass involving Cezanne and Picasso. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e0dab5402.jpg View from Porte des Cordeliers. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...162373498f.jpg Same. Note the automatic digital dispenser on the left. The juxtaposition: the old chateau looming above the very new. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07921fb3e0.jpg There a number of compelling viewpoints throughout Loches, both up in the medieval Cite and also below in the main residential neighborhoods. The one shown here comes from the Collegiale/cathedral's back garden. Immediately next to that exists a cafe with the exact same vista. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6188ad1460.jpg Loches sunrise. It is a great village for walking. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88f49b8e46.jpg Porte des Cordeliers with our gite on the immediate right. [img alt="Nocturne... *Next: Cafe de la Ville: food and drink across the Loire."]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1320x2000/loire_2025_131_86a459a041e84407e41a23a7653f264c27f ab2a5.jpg[/img] |
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Let's try this shot again. Bien sur, another 'before & after' pairing. [img alt="My unshy friend Steve was once our bands soundman extraordinaire, hired to handle our soundboard for special occasions and never letting us down. In the decades since, he has learned to play a mean Fender Stratocaster which he uses while playing in his own band Modern Voodoo. Thats me wearing his bands t-shirt. No, I was not paid. *Next: Cafe de la Ville: food & drink"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1325/loire_2025_83_9d8aa6f4883bf23189ac8998ceb29c251570 2b1e.jpg[/img] My unshy friend Steve was once our band's soundman extraordinaire, hired to handle our soundboard for special occasions and never letting us down. In the decades since, he has learned to play a mean Fender Stratocaster which he uses while playing in his own band 'Modern Voodoo'. That's me wearing his band's t-shirt. No, I was not paid. *Next: Cafe de la Ville: food & drink |
Johnny was a protege songwriter for Edith Piaf before going on to his own career as a massively successful pop singer.
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Another wonderful report zebec, and glorious photographs! Thank you.
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Your trip reports and photos are always delightful. I'm so glad you enjoyed this area. I absolutely love it. Unfortunately we are in a travel rut and won't be going to Loches on this next trip. But now I wish we were. I'm looking forward to more from you tomorrow.
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Great photos Zebec! Love the reflective ones too. Looking forward to more.
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Wow! What an absolute delight! This will be a pure pleasure to read and enjoy in the coming weeks. Truly a gift to us, thank you!! Sadly, though, you've surely ruined the town of Loches -- it's gonna be absolutely mobbed with visitors in the future. I have begun the first of many Google maps and Google searches investigations...
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Welcome all to.... CAFE DE LA VILLE. This serves as our Food/Drink section.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...580c533f7b.jpg The sourcing list from the famed Michelin starred 'Arbor& Sens' restaurant in Loches. Folks drive from all over to dine there. Chef Dumont's food was fantastic and the staff were all excellent. The PA piped in actual forest sounds. There's a gold-striped toilet seat. The arboral theme means that a real live tree is growing in the middle of their dining room! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...423a3b6afb.jpg Mrs Z: "I liked most of it. They combined three tastes together per tiny dish." We rarely eat at Michelin restaurants so this was new territory for us. But when in France c'mon on... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d1ffa20ff.jpg This is Frederic, the chef-owner of l'ecole Gourmande restaurant in Montresor. He also writes cookbooks. He was a one-person show the day that we had lunch there in that old schoolroom. His beetrave appetizer was one of the best ever--bravo! Great porc Provencal and rhubarb crumble dessert. *Funny coincidence : we did not realize it during the meal, but the engaging Brit-born Tourism Office rep (Rebecca) whom we hoped to later meet for the first time, turned out to be dining right next to us! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...472b6f8255.jpg Two words: Chateau Gaillard. We pity the fools who come to Amboise and miss it. It is a lesser-known Chateau and Emma seen above runs its sympa troglodyte cafe. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdf5e15a09.jpg She will serve you VG tuna nicoise salad plus freshly-squeezed citrus (three flavours) from the estate's famed grove. DO NOT MISS BUYING SOME OF THEIR OWN RARE CITRUS JAMS!! World-class. Superb gift ideas. We'll show a jar later. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbbb037ffc.jpg At the Loches Wednesday and Saturday market, hungry shoppers can buy delicious deli dishes from Traiteur Gilles & Valerie Deschamps from the nearby rose-champion village of Chedigny. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...784cd69437.jpg After that, do seek out the friendly fishmongers Sylvie and Vincent Arnault. They are from the Ciran part of Tours city. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ffe958a93.jpg Produce aplenty. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44d73df9ea.jpg Paris' famed Marche des Rouge Enfants. We hadn't been for a while but wanted to sneak it in on our final day of the trip. Our age showed when while dining there, it suddenly struck us that we were almost old enough to be grandparents to the youthful demographic. Sweet Jayzus was it ever LOUD for a Sunday afternoon. One butcher/vendor drew a curious young (i.e. 30ish) crowd as he macheted a massive beef carcass into pieces right there on a table. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...191f8baecd.jpg A seafood dish at that same animated market. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...035bca3102.jpg We opted for tajine. One of the market cats opted for our leftovers. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b14c05e2eb.jpg This Montresor horse heard some terrible rumours and was trying to hide in disguise. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a6bb6998c.jpg At the smaller but still worthy Rabelais weekly market in Tours, we found the friendly gal who ran the Domaine Chatenay strawb stall. Our Tours landlady Fanny had recommended this booth. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...293ae484af.jpg By the coffee stand at that same market, an unusual occurrence. The friendly fellow in yellow insisted on offering me a free shoulder massage. He was a tech expert with an interest in bodywork. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04522ba4a7.jpg Our landlords Fanny and Jean-Michel also recommended the restaurant 'La Maison Tourangelle' in sleepy Savonierres. It was located inside a historical girls' school on the Cher river. Our experience both in the town and also at the restaurant was very nice. Great food and service. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...647ec4cf6c.jpg Chef Frederic Arnault does it right. An unusual sight unfolded during our meal, when a trio of local swans on the close-by Cher suddenly flew the length of that river right in front of our window table! Never seen swans fly before. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22aada8b0c.jpg Mrs Z and I were given a warm welcome both arriving and also departing La Maison Tourangelle. Two discerning cochons we were. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3506d7e613.jpg Also in Paris, we reserved supper at the old-school restaurant 'Chez Nenesse'. It was a one-minute walk from our hotel in le Marais. Traditional dishes are the thing here, such as the above sweetmeats (brain). We met a delightful young lady there named Mandy. She was in town for business. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0e053872b.jpg Mandy was originally from Beijing but now worked for Tik Tok in Seattle. We three dined together and had a great time under a full moon. Even the desserts were old school, poire William custard and all that. The young waitress also had an interesting background. Jamaican dad. Lived for years in San Sebastian. Went to high school in upstate NY. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3462689e0.jpg Baguettes in Tours (Talemeir bakery). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a93bfeb720.jpg This sandwich board in Azay-le-Rideau trumpets rillettes and rillons, both traditional foodic items in the Loire. In Azay, check out Creperie Odette--must reserve ahead. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a38b8ff3d4.jpg Delicious dish at an Azay fest. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bef0585742.jpg *If you remember just one thing from this TR, please make it the name of this jam company: 'La Trinquelinette'. Celine DuBreil runs her business out of Saint-Leger-Vauban. Her specialty is flavours that have long been out of fashion, grandma's recipes etc. We discovered her excellent product decades ago but have only been able to find it here and there. The Reine Claude flavour here on the right was actually made from an Italian greengage plum invented at the above-mentioned Chateau Gaillard. More on that later here. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe51598a62.jpg Speaking of that chateau, here is its historical mock-up of a traditional boulangerie. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aff01b14b8.jpg French food is fantastic full stop. So is the wine and so are the desserts. More about those plus other foods in the next bunch of imagery. |
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The Return of the Son of Food and Drink...on the left is a jar of the aforementioned citrus jam made on site @Chateau Gaillard in Amboise. The palace/castle there is the most Italianate chateau of the Loire. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...926fde4c50.jpg Hugo and his friendly partner run the God-send 'Le P'tit Marche' in Tours. It was a one-minute walk away from our rental. a stroll done through lovely Prenerbes public garden-park. Mrs Z and I took to referring to his bio store by the name of our own city's pre-eminent health food shop--they were so similar. Hugo (a pro photographer on the side) stocked the tasty Gaborit dairy line: the creme cafe was outstanding! His impossibly-pretty wife makes fantastic sandwiches, especially tuna. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ca75b14d3.jpg The Nicolas Leger pastry shop in Tours is located kitty corner to the permanent Les Halles market. Their version of the Paris-Brest pastry (so-named for the historic inaugural bicycle race linking the two places) shown here is off-the-charts incredible. We fantasized about staging a 3am break-in to steal many more. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff7324b0f8.jpg Sweets for sale at an Azay fest. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d41862fe5a.jpg Tours as a pair of nearby competing chocolate shops in its downtown center. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3e6c01404.jpg We went twice, research you understand. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1e585f7dd.jpg Can you spot Mrs Z? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a6160809e.jpg Wine has long been a major attraction in the Loire region. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c8689e13d.jpg Vouvray is a delicious white wine. It is perhaps the most iconic in the Loire valley. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dec454c02f.jpg This was Mrs Z's fave. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00a776a392.jpg Talemelier bakery is very close to the Les Halles of Tours. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a530d9dd3.jpg The permanent Tours Les Halles market is very good, with plenty of variety and of course, excellent quality throughout. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adf9be6f33.jpg Not every day that we all can buy something edible from La Reunion! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7cab87d9c.jpg These following four images are from the Saturday Farmers Market in Tours. It is located directly beside the permanent covered Les Halles indoor equivalent, so one may do a 2-fer shopping there that day. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91154c60f5.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecba8eb234.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cb6219c02.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ffdf9e7ba.jpg Some fresh fruit juices for sale in Azay. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f264284281.jpg A final shot from that Loches Michelin restaurant L'Arbor & Sens'. Their imaginative motif-logo was a fork turning into a branch. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a8b90ffd0.jpg A trophy won by staff at that restaurant in Savonniere. Awards won for foodic excellence is France surely have a special meaning. [img alt="This salmon tart dish was A+ awesome (that word). We bought a large slice of it from the already-mentioned Tours-based fishmonger at the weekly Loches market. That day, the village was covered in a deep fog. *Next we will complete this Food section with a simple list of our most-recommended."]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/2000x1325/loire_2025_189_b2348be805247fcc48b14f94a6fe4814145 0b5dc.jpg[/img] This salmon tart dish was A+ awesome (that word). We bought a large slice of it from the already-mentioned Tours-based fishmonger at the weekly Loches market. That day, the village was covered in a deep fog. *Next we will complete this Food section with a simple list of our most-recommended. |
Repeating every compliment above, zebec! A really special TR.
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