Dordogne, San Sebastian, bilbao.
 

We're going to these places. In fact, we've started. Right now we're in the United club lounge because we have a united credit card. In the United club you can get a free drink and soup. DW and I got a rum coke and garden vegetable soup. We fly from dulles to Dublin to Bordeaux and then drive to our rental house near tremolat. In french, you don't pronounce the last t. We gladly accept all suggestions. We plan to see StCirq and her husband. They know how to pronounce Tremolat.

Have a pleasant trip.

Rather late in the mix to be asking for recommendations.

ImDone, thanks. Robert25, yes, but that's what makes this so exciting. We've arrived.

http://www.vrbo.com/79727

We're staying at this house with friends we met playing volleyball in DC when we were 20 somethings. Now we're 60 somethings.

DW and I were the last to arrive so we got the crummy bedroom but crummy here isn't really crummy.

We've been up a long time. I wish I could sleep on a plane. We heard Irish accents in the Dublin airport. We eschewed insurance on the rental car from europcar in Bordeaux.

We stopped in Bergiac at a brasserie for some salad with pate and speckles of meat DW thought was gamey. So we asked for a carryout container to take leftovers back to the house. The lady looked at us oddly, but brought us Tupperware for the leftovers. The concept of a doggy bag isn't easy to explain to french people when you don't speak french.

We were effusively grateful and left a big tip. There are many windy dark roads between Bergiac and Tremolat. But the stars at night are spectacular.

Tres bien, mes amis! Quelle jolie maison.

That house is adorable. Have a wonderful trip.

I always like your posts, they make me smile.

Great house! Looking forward to following along. Have fun.

Oh, I am jealous, santamonica! Looks like a cute house. Have a great trip!!

Good morning. Bonjour. Yesterday we shopped at the big Intermarche in Le Bugue and went to two caves there.

Some of us did. But I decided to wander through town instead, since later in the week we're going to the famous caves at Lescaux. Faux caves, but still very cool, I'm told.

I bought a nice little framed picture of Beynac for two euros and two minature masks from Venice for one euro. The lady selling these things was very friendly and enthusiastic about these items.

I also bought an electric extension cord so we can charge our phone and turn the light on in our room at the same time.

I apologize that there is very little news here that you can use, but it's only our first day.

We went to dinner at Les Truffieres, a lovely restaurant next to our rental house, just outside of tremolat. There were many courses, the restaurant was lovely, the food perfect.

Although I have to admit, I'm not crazy about duck. Which is what people like to eat here. I hope this confession doesn't enrage any of you, but I can understand that it may.

Oh, and this morning we started with breakfast at a nice little restaurant next to the famous bistro across from the fancy hotel and restaurant in Tremolat. Le Vieux Logis.

The nice lady there taught me how to say water without gas (oh plat). I like french people even though they are difficult to understand sometimes since, as I mentioned earlier, they speak french.

I like the french word for water (eau, which is pronounced 'oh').

Tomorrow we go to the Sunday market in Issarez and call our fodorite friends StCirq and RunningTab. More news you can use will surely follow.

Www.auberge-les-truffieres.fr

Yesterday we went to the farmers market and bought chicken, potatoes, green beans, brought them home, fixed dinner, ate dinner, and watched The Butcher, a strange french movie filmed right here in Tremolat. I'm not giving away too much to tell you the butler didn't do it.

Today we went to Beynac, where a big castle perches high above the dordogne river (I think it's the dordogne, but there's another river here too) and you can high up in the highest tower and think about shooting your crossbow at people.

Then we went to Sarlat and had lunch and thought about people hundreds and hundreds of years ago walking by the same place we were.

Then we visited StCirq and her husband Running Tab who are renovating a beautiful house with a pool on a hill near Le Bugue which was supposed to be finished in May but isn't. They fixed us a wonderful dinner and helped us back out of the driveway.

That's what we've done so far. Tomorrow we go kayaking on the river and go to Lescaux (cave).

My goodness it's good to be in my nice warm bed resting up for dinner. We went kayaking on the dordogne today. It was very pleasant except for the rain. Also DW had a little trouble navigating straight down river and instead went from side to side, getting twice as much paddling as anyone else. Its difficult to tell somebody how to paddle. Then we went to lascaux caves which were remarkable, although rather crowded and cold. I like heated prehistoric caves when I'm soaked from kayaking in the rain, but I understand things were tough back in prehistoric times, so it helped me empathize. Tomorrow, in order to build readership, I'll be including pictures of naked women.

Following along, santamonica. Please no pics of naked women! Maybe kitties or puppies?

We'll be in Sarlat for 5 nights in a couple of weeks. I hope we can do the canoe trip in better weather than y'all!

"I'm not crazy about duck." LOL. I am practically a vegetarian so am hoping there are lots of other options on menus!

Your photo choice for improving your readership stats is perfect!

Nola77382, suggest you bring along a jar of peanut butter! We are currently in the Dordogne and have commented several times that our vegetarian friends would have slim pickings on the menus here - salad and frites perhaps? Though I think we saw a Vietnamese restaurant in Sarlat so that might be a possibility.

the photo is purrfect, santamonica!

Thanks for the suggestion, janeog. I usually make do with salads and as many French fries as I can handle--they're so much better than what we get at home! Plus the pastries and gelato. I'm hungry, now.

Today we slept late, then drove off looking for lunch at a restaurant in Paunat next to an abby (chez julien) which was closed because the french don't serve food just any old time but only when they think it should be served. Then we drove to Lalind and went to another cafe that didn't serve food just any old time and bought two beers which you can buy just any old time.

Then (perhaps too many sentences starting with then?) we shopped. I bought pants which were too long. I bought them because tomorrow we go to Vieux Logis, a fancy restaurant in Tremolat with one Michelin star and my friends are concerned about my blue jeans, which are clean but well worn.

The new pants are too long because, I'm told, pants in france come only in one length and are hemmed to fit. Hemming cost $5. I pick the pants up tomorrow and will then go to the weekly thursday market in Lalind where I may be able to buy a used jacket which will go nicely with my new pants.

Kayaking suggestion: we went to 'Canoes Vacances' near Beynac where you can see all the castles and chateaux whilst paddling. You'll be drier if you take a canoe rather than a kayak.

Tomorrow is our last day in Tremolat. Then we go by train from Bordeaux to the parador in Hondarribia, then an airbnb apt near the beach in San Sebastian, and then some little botique hotel in Bilbao.

Next, maybe pictures of spanish kittens.

Looking forward to your information about Bordeaux as we are going next spring.

A kitten woke us up this morning. Really. It jumped through the open window, on to the bed, and nuzzled my face until I woke up. A calico cat. 6am. The landlord, Janice, knows the cat and had been petting it the night before, so I didn't feel endangered. Sorta cool way to wake up, even for dog people. DW made me put the cat outside so she could sleep some more.

After coffee we drove to Lalinde to collect my pants and see the outdoor market. I bought a light jacket, but it was new, so no great bargain, but I like it.

Then (that word again) we went to the Vieux Logis for lunch. Incredible. Fantastic. Really good. Seven or eight courses. Little portions, but exquisite. And the gardens are very pretty. Fresh apples. If you are near Tremolat you should try and eat here. The rooms are quite expensive.

After lunch our little group played boule on the town courts, drove to a nice overlook of the dordogne, fixed leftovers for dinner, and packed.

I'm not sure if all this sounds very exciting, but it's been fun. And I know some of you would appreciate the calico kitten.

Tomorrow DW and I leave the group. We'll see a little of Bordeaux and (hopefully) catch a train to Hendaye, which is next to our parador in Spain.

All sorts of interesting things could happen tomorrow.

Aww, what a lovely way to wake up! A little too early, but still lovely.

Vieux Logis sounds fantastic. I wish we had more time in the Dordogne area because we cannot fit it in this trip. I have started playing bocce and would love to find a town court and try my hand at boules!

Enjoy the rest of your trip.

Sounds like a very nice trip!

Santa, do not fret. You have a following.

France is very nice but Spain is especially nice. We took a train here from Bordeaux.

We're staying two nights in the parador in Hondarribia. It's a hotel in an old castle. It's very nice, but no pool (que barbaridad!). It's a very nice view to france on the other side of the harbor.

DW has a bad foot, so we took a cab to the beach. Very few people on the beach, although I noticed a few women without tops. Not that I care about that sort of thing.

Anyway, after a quick swim and sunbathing for a while, we walked back, stopping at two or three places for pintxos (tapas) and red wine.

The bars set out a variety of tapas on the counter, you drink your wine, tell the bartender how many pintxos you ate, pay, and head for the next bar. Crab dip, tortillas, croquettes, ham, chorizo, etc. Really, really good, and fun. Everybody strolling, kids everywhere.

DW remembered, once back at the parador, that we had left our beach towel and wet suits in one of the bars, so I had to retrace our steps, this time without the wine and pintxos. It was still fun. And I found the stuff.

Bought an apple and cookies for desert, and went to bed. Maybe we'll dream of pintxos.

Hi santamonica - I'm very much enjoying your blog. We stayed in the same square in Hondaribbia in a little hotel I think it was called San Nickolas. There was a wedding in the square just below our hotel. Such fun. From there we took the boat to Hendaye, about 10 min. Wonderful beaches in that area.

It's noon. The bells go crazy here at noon, right next to the parador, right next to our window. It's great, like being in another time, but yet at the same time (noon).

We saw a bride and groom posing for pictures this morning. I wished them 'felicitaciones' which I think is better than 'bon chance'.

I was curious about the San Nicolas. They said yesterday they were 'completo' both days we're here. I liked those big windows on the square, but we're very happy in the parador. Morning coffee on the terrace watching the people and boats, and the ferry to Hendaye. Maybe we try the french beach today.

It would be difficult for a cat to climb through the window here and wake us up.

We spent a week in Hondarribia, a special spot. Make sure you drive over to the villages in Pays Basque which are not far, Ainhoa, Saré, Espellette, etc.

If you go to the beach in Hendaye don't eat at the San Marco. Worst meal we had ever. Nice place though. Outside seating looking at the beach. Dh said I shouldn't discourage you from eating there as maybe we just ordered the wrong thing - paella.

Thanks for the suggestions. However, we are without a car now, traveling to San Sebastian and Bilbao by bus. So no drives to wonderful little towns, lamentablemente.

This afternoon we took the little ferry to Hendaye and walked to the beach. Once at the beach, it's a long walk to the water. But the waves are fun.

We didn't eat in Hendaye, so can't say whether or not only the paella was bad.

I have a blister on my foot from being stylish and not wearing socks, so now both DW and I are limping around with bad feet. I feel like I have walked a mile in her shoes.

Tomorrow, San Sebastian.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1527317?s=23

For vegetarian restaurants or restaurants with vegetarian choices in the Dordogne, google ""restaurant vegetarien dordogne"

Traveling to San Sebastián and Bilbao"

Lucky you! We loved both places but especially San Sebastián. If you are not tired of them the pintxos are the best. And the beach is great.

Not a good idea to have paella in the Basque Country, nothing at all to do with the local cuisine.

Casa Urola is my favourite not Michelin star restaurant in San Sebastian, have been going here almost every year since 1987. A place that locals will take new visitors to show what the food culture here is all about. http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/portada/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html

Also great pintxos in the ground floor bar: http://allaboutfoodmag.com/de_pintxos-en-casa-urola/

And when going for pintxos, be sure to order the warm pintxos directly fom the kitchen, usually here you'll find the house specialities, and normally more interesting than the cold pitxos on display in the bars.

All about going for pintxos in San Sebastian: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

Enjoy the food capital of Spain!

Kimhe - we ordered paella because it was the special of the day and everyone around us was eating it. And because we always like a good paella.

Everything was good in San Sebastián not only the pintxos

Passing on Casa Urola rec to my daughter who will be in San S. this week.

Spent a couple of very strange days in Hendaye many years ago, so I should perhaps not be surprised to learn they're now into paella ;-)

Can't wait to go back to Urola myself in a few weeks.

This afternoon, after taking the E27 bus from Hondarribia and checking in at our airbnb in San Sebastian, which seems very nice, we went out for pintxos at Gandarias and Txepetxa, both delicious. So much good food. Maybe I like best the crab and very delicate mayo sauce. But it's too early to decide, I need many more samples. We will look for Urola.

There is a film festival here in San Sebastian. Red carpet and everything. I got us tickets for tomorrow night to Eva Doesn't Sleep, a movie about embalming Eva Peron. Why, you ask. Well, I didn't know what I was doing. DW, my guide, was still on the beach. I had had enough beach, although the beach is very nice. There are naked people on the beach here. That takes some getting used to.

Anyway, I needed a new adventure, so she sent me off to explore the film festival. These tickets were available. Oh well, how bad can it be?

Naked people on the beach in San Sebastian is a novelty for me after living here and some 25 visits. Was a French guy here some years ago who made it into the news for cycling naked along La Concha bay, but he fast ran out of fashion back then. But maybe he has succeeded in the long run. Probably from Hendaye...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne6XtXB-S1A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smrhog1W-wA

No naked bikers but today there was a naked guy with a beret (I don't make this stuff up) who walked energetically up and down the beach, engendering very little notice, other than a few smiles.

The real excitement was the film festival and Eva No Duerme, which turned out to be a blast, complete with actors and photographers and excitement. And the movie, with Gael Garcia Bernal, was pretty good (he wasn't at the festival but his costars were).

Then DW and I went back to the apt and cooked up stuff we got at the market this morning.

This is a great rental, nice view of the river and surfer beach, right across from the film festival, and in a beautiful old building (you should rent this apartment if you come to San Sebastian).

We're still having fun.

Then you're staying very close to Bodega Donostiarra, very popular with the locala: http://www.bodegadonostiarra.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html

We've let our fodorite advisors down. We went on a bike ride, then to the San telmo museum, and then to a pretty dumb comedy movie (gypsy king), part of the festival, and didn't get across the river to your place kimhe, or to the casa urola in our neighborhood, which was closed today. So we had pintxos at a couple other local places and came home. We leave tomorrow for a couple nights in bilbao. We're using Google maps for the bus connections, so wish us luck.

http://www.basqueboutique.es/

To those of you sitting on the edge of your seats, waiting to hear if we arrived safely at our little hotel in bilbao, we did. Now we rest a tad before setting out for the Gugenheim. It's raining here. It doesnt bother DW and me because we are strong people. Although I thought it rained mainly on the plain.

We too had rain during our stay in Bilbao. Enjoyed Bilbao a lot in spite of it. Hope you do too.