Dolomites without a car
 

Optimist that I am, I'm beginning to do research for a possible trip to the Dolomites next fall.

The initial plan is to spend five nights in two areas from which we can take day hikes. I think I've narrowed those two areas down to Val Gardena and Cortina d'Ampezzo.

I have some concerns though. While it seems that Val Gardena is a great spot for visitors without a car and that all accommodation there offers a free transport card (so I've read), Cortina d'Ampezzo looks to be more of a challenge. Is there a better area than Cortina d'Ampezzo for those relying on public transport? Is getting to the trailheads from Cortina a hassle?

I'm also a bit concerned about the difficulty of hikes I've run across - we have no interest in via ferrata. Nor are we looking for all day hikes - just moderate day hikes of 3-5 hours. Does such a thing exist?

I'm also concerned about potential crowds - we'd normally visit off season, but I've read that the cableways and gondolas in the Dolomites shut down pretty early - mid October - so we'd probably be there during late Sept along with hoards of other tourists.

Thoughts? Experiences? Suggestions?

Is there a specific reason you wouldn't want to have a car? There are bus services, but you'd have to research how buses would work with your plans. Or do the reverse and research the bus schedules and then figure out what you can plan around them. IMO, unless you have a week or (preferably) more, getting around by bus will really limit what you're able to do/see. For example, you can get to a particular spot, but can you spend the time you want there and still get back? And some things are just not realistically accessible without a car....

There are moderate day hikes all over the place. Some people like to take a lift and start hiking at the higher elevation, but there are trail heads at road (bus stop/parking lot) level.

Bolzano is a transportation hub, but it's not "in" the Dolomites. Ortisei is a gateway to a lot of hiking and has good bus service to other points. I'm not familiar with Cortina's public transportation services, but 2026 Olympics planning may include some improvements on what has been available in the past. If you go without a car, you might want to spend several nights in one location and then move to another location.

We have only visited the area in October and usually after many gondolas have stopped operating. There have been a few lifts operating from Bolzano, Ortisei and (I think) Cortina. We've had good weather and done some great hiking, but we had a car. The bigger problem has been fewer restaurants open everywhere at that time.

But I'm not sure how helpful past experiences will be in anticipating the situation immediately post-Covid. Bigger or smaller crowds? Fewer or more things open? Same or reduced public transportation?

Thanks Jean.

We prefer buses and trains; that's just our preference when visiting Europe, regardless of where we go. I realize we'll need to check schedules closer to our travel dates and that things might have changed due to COVID. Our plan is to spend five nights each in two areas in the Dolomites, but willing to extend to a week in each if necessary or spend the entire time in one place.

We'll be coming from Austria - flying into Munich. The idea is to spend a month or so, splitting our time between Italy and Austria and maybe a bit of Germany.

We hate crowds and usually visit much more off-the-beaten path places and often have hiking trails completely to ourselves, so I guess I'm just trying to get a feel for how busy and popular these spots are, or were. I'd rather visit later in October when it's quiet; we often visit Switzerland when gondolas and cable cars are closed and never have trouble finding suitable hikes, but that might not make sense for Italy.

In October things are certainly slowing down or dead in the Dolomites. Too early for skis, too late for summer, kids are back in schools, and a lot of places close down (restaurants, even hotels, and of course gondolas and cable cars).
the mad crowds are mostly in July and august and slow down a lot in September.
I go every year (except 2020...) and usually go the second week in September, right before things shut down. Only the most popular hikes will have other hikers on them.
if you go in the off season or shoulder season, then forget about public transportation. Buses limit their runs to between major towns but won’t take you up to trail heads any longer. This is startin the first week in September.
Cortina is not as organized as Val Gardena with public transportation. Also the cable cars close early in Cortina. By the third week in September pretty much all of then have closed. Val Gardena stays open a bit later. It’s also very cumbersome to travel by bus between the 2 valleys.
a car would really help you with flexibility, efficiency, and comfort. Driving in the Dolomites is easy, just make sure you always pick the larger, main road, and don’t end up in a skinny, twisting, steep mountain road.
there are a couple books on hiking the Dolomites if you are interested. “Shorter Walks in the Dolomites”, by Gillian, publisher is Cicerone I believe. You will find dozen of hikes at your level I believe. They are organized in the different areas of the Dolomites. The same author and publishes has a couple more, “walking in the Dolomites”, “trekking in the Dolomites” etc. You can find them on Amazon.

Mel, I’ve had a few ‘conversations’ with ‘Stormbird’ on TA via PM as we kind of passed each other while travelling and she based in Cortina several times, then went on to Scuol or Zuoz. Anyway, can’t find it on TA but her blog is here
https://public.fotki.com/stormbird/
she always travels by bus and usually in September.

I've also briefly looked into visiting the Dolomites and have read that lifts/gondolas/etc start late and finish early each year. Apart from the need for maintenance I've never properly understood why, as many visitors would like them to run for a longer season. Does anyone understand why this is the case? Is it to do with the weather (e.g. snow) or terrain making them unsafe in cooler spring and autumn weather? Is it because of maintenance schedules between winter and summer? Like Mel, I dislike travelling when it is hot and busy and prefer to always use public transport (it's one of the pleasures of travelling in Europe). It seems like an opportunity missed if people who would prefer to holiday outside of the peak summer season are less able to use local transport.

We went at the end of August/into the first week of September last year, based in the Val di Fassa. While the roads were a little busy and several of the most major lifts (Sass Pordoi and Lagazuoi) had quite a few people, many of the other lifts/chairs we used seemed pretty empty. While we weren't alone on the trails, it definitely did not feel overrun. By contrast, our previous trip was in August, based in the Val Gardena, and things were much more crowded. Whenever we get back - hopefully sooner than later - we agreed we'd probably target mid-September while most lifts are still running.

We have used the Cicerone book mentioned above, as well as the Sunflower book - both detail some of the good walks in various areas. Several websites also have a lot of detailed information on walks: e.g., Val di Fassa and Val Gardena and Alta Badia sites allow you to filter by various criteria such as difficulty. Those sites also have lift schedules. I don't know as much about the eastern areas, such as around Cortina, but hopefully I'll have a chance to find out in a future year.

Very helpful - a big thanks to all of you. I will look into the links you've provided.

Adelaidean - I stumbled across your TR from your visit to the Dolomites in 2016 - a good read.

Just did a live chat with someone here: https://www.valgardena.it/en/winter-...ts/open-lifts/

Got this response:

The most lifts will close at the end of September. Some will be open till mid October, mostly those in Ortisei.

Nothing new there.

dreamon, they close because if would not be profitable to keep them open for the low seasons. The amount of people going in the shoulder and low season does not justify keeping up the personnel, and the equipment, the food supplies for the rifugios, etc.
The high season there is the winter ski season, then they open again for the summer basically when kids are out of school (mid June in Italy) and close again mid to end September when the kids are back in school.
It also has to do with trails being still icy and not safe right after the snow melts. If you are an advanced hiker, you can still go and not use the lifts. But a lot of people will not go through that effort.

List of all cableways in the province of Bolzano/Bozen with opening periods:
https://www.suedtirol.com/bergsport/...ten-seilbahnen.
Cableways in other areas of the Dolomites (Trento, Belluno) close rather earlier (most of them during September).

melng8, here is a page that shows all the lifts and their schedule for the summer, I cannot post the entire link yet as i don't have enough posts here...it's on the same Valgardena page you went for the chat, just plug in this after www:
valgardena.it/en/summer-holidays-dolomites/lifts/

Thanks Barbara, somehow I'd missed that. The closure dates are all over the place - 9/13-10/11.

I can tell you that most of the ones that stay open till november 11 are near or in Ortisei. If you look at the header, it shows in which towns or location they start.
There is one from Santa Cristina, and 3 or 4 from Ortisei.
I have done all of them, they are all great, but you really need to do Seceda.
A bunch on top of Alpe di Siusi are also open under the header "Seiser Alm". It's like a resort up there, not really "mountain like". I have never been and no intention on going...But the views are great.

As a rule of thumb, if it might help you, for most of them (lifts AND rifugios), the last day is always on a weekend, and it's usually the third weekend in the month of September. Some might be open a little later, but to schedule my stay there I always go just before the third weekend of the month...fewer people...and I have all my options open.

Yes, definitely! The Forcella Sassolungo lift is also memorable (and the hike down the scree slope on the other side), but I don't think it is open as late into the season as some of the others. Another favorite was the hike from the top of the Dantercepies lift to the Puez Hutte and then back down into Selva.

Some of the lifts are very lightly used, so it couldn't make sense to keep them open too late into the season. On our last trip, we were there roughly August 28-Sept 2 of 2019. I remember taking a couple of long chairlift rides -- one being Konig Laurin (near Carezza), which is nearly 20 minutes long, on a Saturday afternoon -- and not passing anyone else on the ride up or down.

Why speak about Barbara's list which is for Val Gardena/Groedental/Val Gherdeina only, if there exists a list for the whole South Tyro area?
Have a look at my post 12

I don’t see Italian or English on that
I can’t read it
and it seems to be for 2020

I've looked at both lists neckervd and appreciate the information. I've also contacted the information offices in Val Gardena and Cortina and they've told me they don't know the operating schedules for summer 2021 yet as its too early; they also mentioned that the buses are the bigger issue.

Based on the summer operating schedules for 2020, I think I have enough information to form a loose plan. I'm fairly confident that if we go to Cortina first, getting there the third week of September, and then visit Val Gardena second, in late Sept/early October, we'll find sufficient open to fill our time, so we're hopeful that we can spend five nights in each spot and then move on to Austria/Germany for the duration.

We'd originally hoped to spend the remaining time in Switzerland, but the logistics are a bit daunting, so we've decided (subject to change) to just take a second trip to Switzerland closer to Christmas.

Mel, chiming in late but want to add my 2ct. I'd like to encourage you to have a look at Toblach and Innichen, just north of Cortina. They are in the wide open, sunny Pustertal which is right between the Dolomites and the main crest of the Alps with the glaciers on the border to Austria. I personally found the contrast between both - different - types of mountains amazing, especially enjoyed it from outstanding viewpoints like Mt. Helm or Kronplatz (near Bruneck), both accessible by cable car. Also, from the main valley (Pustertal) you have convenient access to some very beautiful valleys (Fischlein valley e.g.), some with crystal clear lakes (overrun in main season, though: Pragser Wildsee e.g.)

Could be a nice alternative for either Val Gardena or Cortina, as both are quite similar in mountain scenery.

Fantastic Ingo, I will take a look, thank you!

“Adelaidean - I stumbled across your TR from your visit to the Dolomites in 2016 - a good read.”
Oh yeah, rereading makes me want to go back, lol.


Mel, I think you’ve seen my report from last year? Based in San Candido / Innichen

https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...italy-1672451/

Mel, as poster #21 wrote, Toblach and Inniken (or Dobbiaco and San Candido in Italian), are also in beautiful areas, really close to lake Braies, (Pragser Wildsee in German) and Val Fiscalina (Fischlein in German). The landscape is less dramatic and more open than in valleys such as Val Gardena, Val di Fassa or Val Badia. The advantage of those towns though, is that there is a train...
The most dramatic views right from the valley are probably in Val Badia. Val Gardena is less dramatic as far as views go, maybe because it is so narrow that it is hard to see the rocky tops of the mountains from the valley, but of course it is near a lot of wonderful hiking.
my favorite valley I would say is Val di Fassa.
But, this year I was planning on staying in Colfosco, right between Val Gardena and Val Badia. Will try again in the spring...
Going from Cortina to Val Gardena by bus will be rather painful. There is no direct route.
this is a map of the Sud Tirol transport network (bus and trains), again I cannot put the entire link yet, this is only my 7th post here, you have to add the other stuff in front...)
.suedtirolmobil.info/fileadmin/pdf/net/net_All_2020.pdf
you can see how it takes a big loop all around through Dobbiaco, Fortezza, and then Chiusa and Ponte Gardena.
If you went earlier, there would be a seasonal bus Cortina - Passo Falzarego where you could then catch a Sii bus to Corvara.
I have to warn you that that late in the season Cortina will be pretty dead. All seasonal buses won’t be running. They usually stop first week in September.

"If you went earlier, there would be a seasonal bus Cortina - Passo Falzarego where you could then catch a Sii bus to Corvara.
I have to warn you that that late in the season Cortina will be pretty dead. All seasonal buses won’t be running. They usually stop first week in September"

That's right..This year, however, everything was a bit different because of covid. Covid too is the reason for the fact that actually, no timetables for 2021 are pubished. Therefore I gave you the cableway timetables of 2020, hoping that everybody would be able to translate indications of running periods like "13.06. - 04.10.2020: 08.30-17.00 Uhr" from German into English.

In normal times, the main bus and local train timetables of the area can be found at:
https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/j...es-to-download
https://dolomitibus.it/it/l/orario-dolomiti/index
https://www.cortinaexpress.it/en/
https://www.trentinotrasporti.it/en/...th-us/suburban

I don't know what you mean with: "We'd originally hoped to spend the remaining time in Switzerland, but the logistics are a bit daunting".
Trains resp buses between
Bolzano/Bozen - Merano/Meran - Malles/Mals - Zernez - St. Moritz and
Bolzano/Bozen - Merano/Meran - Malles/Mals - Martina - Scuol
as well as trains
Bolzano/Bozen - Ponte Gardena/Waidbruck (Ortisei) - Franzensfeste/Fortezza (Pustertal/Cortina d'Ampezzo) - Innsbruck - Feldkirch (Swiss border in the Rhine Valley)
run every hr.

neckervd - we were looking at Tifencastel (8:00), Solothurn (8:17), Sils (8:51) and Saas Almagell (9:08). I think we've decided to make two trips instead, spending about a month each time. 2.5 weeks in Switzerland never seems like enough anyway:)

Going from Cortina to Val Gardena by bus will be rather painful.

Good to know Barbara. Seems I still have plenty of research to do. Thanks for the additional suggestions.

Bolzano/Bozen - Tiefencastel: 6 h 13 min, every 2 hrs, change at Meran, Mals, Zernez, Samedan
Bolzano/Bozen - Sils Maria: 5 h 34 min, every 2 hrs, change at Meran, Mals, Zernez, Bever
Bolzano/Bozen - Solothurn: 6 hrs 52 min, change at Innsbruck and Zurich
Bolzano/Bozen - Saas Almagell: 8 hrs 25 min, change at Verona, Milan, Brig and Saas Grund

Thank you neckervd.

I've done a bit of research on Toblach and Inniken (Dobbiaco and San Candido) and both look quite promising. Getting there seems pretty straightforward, but it's not yet clear to me how we'd get to trailheads - on foot, bus, shuttle?

Also, I see the two villages are only 4 km apart and are similar in size. I assume either one would work as a base, any reason to choose one over the other?

Adelaidean -

I've read your 2019 report, but I see your cousin was driving while you were in San Candido, correct?

Mel, I just PM’d you, then saw this, sorry.

we did use the car a couple of times, but the bus system is good. Our trips to Cortina and Tre Cime were by car though.

I really liked the vibe in Cortina, lots of restaurants, hotels, and bus route in several directions. Such a stunning location.
I got the impression that there’d be more options for slightly off season travellers in Cortina.

The Val Pusteria towns on the train line are in a more open valley, and we needed to bus (or drive) into the side valleys anyway.
And they are tiny places. Our hotel in San Candido was pretty much winding down when we left.

Just adding some landscape shots


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07a9aa70d.jpeg
Val Pusteria
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b31c35c1.jpeg
Val Pusteria
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b24ac9157.jpeg
Cortina street
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e177cbfd.jpeg
Driving Cortina to Dobbiaco
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84f3b206b.jpeg
The valley back to Dobbiaco

Dear Mel, you are going so late in the season you should really consider driving. It is really easy to drive those roads.
if you went when things are open then there would be more buses.

Our planning is somewhat all over the place at the moment. So many wonderful places, so little time. Appreciate the suggestions to date. I'll keep researching and will post as questions arise.

Caveat: my trip was in high season and unlike what you are contemplating, but for a couple longer trips I arranged a taxi. It was dead easy though not inexpensive. Maybe not relevant for your trip, nonetheless as you research you could check it out if you really don't want to drive and the bus schedule doesn't seem viable.

I visited the Dolomites in early July 2018. I traveled all by public transportation and covered the Cortina, Selva Wolkenstein, and Ortisei areas.
Venice Marco Polo Airport connected to the Falzarego Pass via Cortina d'Ampezzo by daily bus services:
Dolomiti Bus
Cortina Express
ATVO
Se.Am bus-CORTINA - RIO GERE - MISURINA GENZIANELLA
Linee 30/31 PASSO FALZAREGO-CORTINA-MISURINA ALB. MISURINA-TRE CIME


The following was my bus schedule (not many bus during the day):
Cortina Express bus-8:00am; arr. CORVARA fermata bus autostazione-9:07am--6 euro. Then bus 471(9:35am) to Plan(10:30am), connecting bus 350(10:34am) to Selva Wolkenste.
It was a bit complicated but doable. You will have to plan to adapt the bus schedules.
You can find the time table here:
https://www.suedtirolmobil.info/en/j...es-to-download

Dolomites is absolutely beautiful!
Happy travels!

I last visited in early September 2018. Spent 4 or 5 nights in Val Gardena.

They have some incentives for longer stays. For instance, the Val Gardena card for several days will cover many of the ski lifts and cable cars in the area. Also bus service.

https://www.valgardena.it/en/summer-.../gardena-card/

I wanted to go to as many mountain tops as possible using cable lifts. Wasn't in it purely for the hiking. I used the bus pass a couple of times but the buses, at least some of them, shut down by 5 PM, so I drove and the parking, such as the one for the cable car that goes to Alpe di Siusi, is cheap after 5 PM. Forget what it was but it's a nice garage, across the main road in the valley from Ortisei. I stayed in Santa Cristina so in the evenings, if you want to go have dinner in Ortisei, car gives you flexibility.

The other part is, the weather can turn very fast and take away a couple of the days you had planned. It rained heavily for 2 and a half days during my visit so when it cleared up again, I used the car to try to hit some places on the other side of the passes. So I would plan for some bad weather, there there isn't much to do when it's raining hard.

The other program they have is Val Gardena Active, which are a set of events like hikes, bike tours and the like. If you stay a certain number of nights at participating hotels, you get the card and a lot of these events are free. The bike tours aren't because you have to pay for the bike rental, including e-bikes in some case.

I tried a walking tour around 5 PM where we took a bus to an area above Ortisei, where you had some great views across the valley, as well as a famous church up there. But to get back, the buses were no longer running so they called the tour office guy who picked us up with his van.

Some of these events require going up lifts so I had both the Val Gardena Card and the Val Gardena Active card from the apartment where I stayed.


Other areas in the Dolomites have similar multiple day cards for access to cable cars, it's just a matter of how many you can get to. Most of them the last ride up is like 4:30 or 4:45 PM, even in midsummer I believe. So if you go up one of those and spend several hours hiking, you're probably not going to go up another big cable car, some of them going way up where there's still snow in the middle of summer.

There's also a SuperDolomiti Pass, which covers all the cable cars from Val Gardena to Cortina. I was almost tempted because it's not even twice the price of the Val Gardena Card, IIRC. However it was good that I didn't because the weather would have prevented me from going to many of those places.

Cherthor just confirms what I said in my post 25: there are actually no timetables available

scrb11 - very helpful, food for thought, thanks for your insight.