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-   -   D'Aix: a photo essay of Aix (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/daix-a-photo-essay-of-aix-1707345/)

zebec May 1st, 2022 12:20 PM

D'Aix: a photo essay of Aix
 
Hi Guys,
So here's our long-delayed Aix photo essay, a tribute to that sympa town. These shots were supposed to be part of our original 2018 TR here 'Provencal Echo' but got side-tracked instead. A couple of them appeared in Coquelicot's 'Photos of France' thread. No music this time, sorry. Further down the road, we'll also post pictures taken on that same Provence/Gard trip: Lourmarin, Cucuron, Uzes, Avignon plus a tiny pinch of Paris. Our pictures feature some of the usual suspect clichés, plus other less-typical imagery.
We hope that you enjoy! *clicking on image may result in better viewing
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0596fd1d9a.jpg
Allons-y!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6a59e7c19.jpg
Can you guess which Fodorite's handle-name is depicted in the Provencal icons depicted here? Hint: think 'summer sounds'.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1651a43a99.jpg
Early morn TGV.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b54e033ee4.jpg
Wonderful traditions.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...708c0d3874.jpg
Street art.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ebc10fc7f.jpg
Such an Italianate town.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8e98cbdac.jpg
A certain 'je ne sais quoi'....
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c263cb6d9b.jpg
Shutterbug heaven.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8de098214a.jpg
Cavaillon melon: try it with Muscat 'Beaumes de Venise'. Outstanding.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...377c22db64.jpg
Our room at the Aix youth hostel.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d90bcf5822.jpg
Reflections
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...133d19f994.jpg
The return of reflections.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22418a7ad8.jpg
Teen town.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd3556e99e.jpg
Little darling.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05af429e30.jpg
Les fleurs
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b54c8fff9.jpg
The Aix rep for Tilley travel hats. *note that Tilley just closed 'without plans to reopen'. End of an era.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ed0c9f626.jpg
Fave fountain.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74270b0562.jpg
end of part one

Adelaidean May 1st, 2022 02:11 PM

Oh zebec, yay to another photo essay!

Sassafrass May 1st, 2022 02:17 PM

Your travel essay is so funny and interesting. Thanks for a smile.

zebec May 1st, 2022 02:20 PM

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fe6a1918f.jpg
Solo cafe drinker.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...693ba9832b.jpg
Chocolates from Puyricard.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ea418def5.jpg
Cocoa from same.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d68904d1fc.jpg
Callisons candy from same shop.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0875602c74.jpg
Old signage.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8aee85f6cb.jpg
The military college next door to our rental, where the cadets sang every morn.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d87f55f2aa.jpg
Place d'Albertas, a popular photo op.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...809fd387c4.jpg
A historic school still in use.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ee1ed6fe2.jpg
Aix is a classy place and Parisians favor it for potential re-location.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c34d673649.jpg
This mansion in a gated community on the outskirts was completed for a Russian oligarch. He came to view the finished product at the end of our week stay.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2eebdf5584.jpg
This cat served as the gatekeeper to that community. I am not kidding.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f3c811add.jpg
The French edition.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3aca3090e8.jpg
An English edition.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13064a62bd.jpg
Avec d'Armagnac.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58f63522ff.jpg
Some of Verne's predictions for the future came true.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aeb1a12e9b.jpg
Mrs Z is completely bilingual. I lag behind in that regard.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07b5adaf8d.jpg
Je foto un compile Michelin.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b9648bf1d.jpg
Lots of carvings and sculptures in Aix.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...162abe16bc.jpg
Some are historic.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b883622d82.jpg
Some are more modern.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be14beb267.jpg
Art seems to be everywhere.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77a4e9915b.jpg
Aix wears it all well.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66e709aa5c.jpg
Fall is a great time to visit.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d36642f04.jpg
de l'eau
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d35e10277.jpg
Le chien qui ferme les yeux.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45ee878bdb.jpg
end of part two

zebec May 1st, 2022 07:27 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fe5474d67.jpg
Our Aix rental was in a gated community.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd9a1d5a2a.jpg
Our landlady was a young, local politician who told us to help ourselves to the family's private fruit garden. The result was some unusually fresh breakfasts. Seen here, their 'ugni blanc' grapes.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fd7e882e4.jpg
Reine de la reine apples
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71f0120674.jpg
More grapes.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db7b9eefe7.jpg
The supplied ladder and tools that we used to amass our first meal of the day.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e367c0dfac.jpg
The result.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c718cebbc.jpg
One of their lovely white blossoms.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a07fadc83.jpg
Detail of a nearby neighbour's tasteful jardin.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2bfe491306.jpg
Did I mention 'Italianate'?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c848de4c6b.jpg
Traditional plaque for legal office.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...105eb8d81f.jpg
'Only a magic that a name would stain...' (P. Gabriel)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73e01f55f4.jpg
St. Fodoria, patron saint of travelers who take too many photos.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c7efe87ae.jpg
Statue of Alec du Grabertitz, great-great-great grandfather of Eugene Fodors.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cab196487.jpg
The statuary speaks of the wealth and power that Aix must've once had.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93d3ed6412.jpg
C'est un vue typique.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b1549aecc.jpg
Have you heard about the spoof organization 'Birds Aren't Real'?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfbcc1443b.jpg
Aix residents during the golden hour.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6c2994539.jpg
Religious imagery.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1042ecf968.jpg
Royal imagery.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f71f0fade4.jpg
Unknown imagery.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84ac02cb9a.jpg
Detail from door to Hotel de Ville (City Hall).
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf2a77d306.jpg
D'Aix
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b586cce53d.jpg
Pizza depuis '52.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf64d8a72b.jpg
Elle mange le pizza.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...121a5a50d1.jpg
Mario pizza.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c09feda5db.jpg
Arty lampshade. End of part three.
*Next: the weekly market & the Caumont Center.


kerouac May 1st, 2022 07:39 PM

Fantastic golden tones. Better than when Aix looks grey.

zebec May 1st, 2022 07:55 PM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c321f16b42.jpg
Happiness is a weekly food market on a sunny day in Aix.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...839a431742.jpg
Sausages
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18b4cb9edd.jpg
A unique display by one stall, done just for style and beauty.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75b104c037.jpg
Place Richelme is a good starting point for the market. Cafe Weibel, seen on the right, is a great place to sip a sunrise coffee and people-watch.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cb0a63b8d.jpg
A vegetal variety.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66d4b27a44.jpg
Poterie aussi.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45ad8cb579.jpg
Textiles.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eed6a9b140.jpg
Garlic.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...addd464655.jpg
So much fresh variety.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfc92d8f72.jpg
Dried figs.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffe9a269be.jpg
Pistachios.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b266893190.jpg
So much good quality throughout.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66ba7d8a5b.jpg
Aix after the rains.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90ca6a11af.jpg
The Caumont center: caumont allez-vous?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55d0b206e3.jpg
An excellent lunch awaits visitors, served in any of three differently-themed salons.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d4bc5b131.jpg
One may do a 2-fer, touring through the historic building as part of a visit.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7de3b53b60.jpg
Elegance is everywhere @ the Caumont.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e69c6b2d75.jpg
Its special shows feature a wide range of items, including custom glassware.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be23d50e87.jpg
This was Mrs Z's favorite.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efc7a4f997.jpg
Nearby window reflection.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37f547e453.jpg
Aix has its own distinctive stone, the color of which makes a significant difference in the 'vibe' (that word) of the town. End part four.
*Donc, the conclusion in part five.


pgtraveler May 1st, 2022 07:59 PM

I love your photos! Thanks for sharing.

zebec May 1st, 2022 08:38 PM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f688f4f404.jpg
We love Aix. It hits our travelling 'G' spot every time.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4d25966fe.jpg
The Palais de Justice renos that uncovered Roman ruins (see foreground). My 'What Would You Do If...?' bit in our TR was based on a true story.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b573a9c4e3.jpg
Avignon may be better-connected for transit logistics, but we prefer the smaller feel of Aix.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19aa24afb6.jpg
Jardin lantern detail.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cf71853b5.jpg
The golden hour.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edad9a32cd.jpg
We salute all the brave Ukrainians currently fighting for their lives.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37c48a6ef6.jpg
Sympa Aix.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b85604b3bf.jpg
It is a door.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...143a9554b8.jpg
Downtown arch.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e573a1b106.jpg
Near the old, historic City hall's former locale.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9290da6c50.jpg
Une autre arch.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a6f3dfc30.jpg
Riflo raflo.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...842625148e.jpg
J'adore le door.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...976148e9d9.jpg
This square was really hopping, even on weeknights.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36e7934173.jpg
as above
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cf387bae2.jpg
Jacquou le Croquant.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03fbc22a23.jpg
Place Miolis, with its funky namesake cafe.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4162083ab1.jpg
Same fountain detail.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...480ec5d98e.jpg
Painted statuary same square.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30247083d5.jpg
Backlit beauty.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...593b492f97.jpg
Sunrise illuminates a scene on the eastern edge of town.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3ab76ecae.jpg
Sleepy sunrise in downtown Aix.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f962ab951.jpg
Centuries of history and culture.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a822e116eb.jpg
Wooden depiction of female musician with instrument.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31ce7c18dc.jpg
Gotta love street art.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6e4aebe71.jpg
The shadows of Aix.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d96084e25.jpg
Rue Finsonius, in a residential neighbourhood far from touristic attractions.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d2297d016.jpg
Recent visitors to Aix will recognize this pair.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2154042516.jpg
Lion door knocker.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae16c3ffbb.jpg
Church exterior in northern neighbourhood.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c00d94d654.jpg
As rush hour approaches...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7597895aba.jpg
I am done. The end.

Sassafrass May 1st, 2022 09:32 PM

Your photos are absolutely fabulous. Thank you so much for taking time to post them.

zebec May 1st, 2022 09:53 PM

A big MERCI to Ade, Sassafrass, PGTraveler and Kerouac for their kind words above. May all of your own upcoming travels to wherever be Aix-cellent, just excellent!
Thanks again folks.
I am done. the town

Coquelicot May 1st, 2022 10:27 PM

Absolutely wonderful! Your photos evoke the France we all love. I predict a sudden surge of interest in Aix among Fodorites.

flygirl May 1st, 2022 11:55 PM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17358671)
Absolutely wonderful! Your photos evoke the France we all love. I predict a sudden surge of interest in Aix among Fodorites.

absolutely gorgeous!

when were you there, zebec? I visited friends living there a week ago and am debating if I want to go back and spend the afternoon there today.

Adelaidean May 2nd, 2022 01:31 AM

Zebec, I was just showing my son your last photo, such clever composition with the fountain, the reflection, the lovely building.
Your collections are always so interesting.

cigalechanta May 2nd, 2022 08:14 AM

Superb !!!!

gudava May 2nd, 2022 08:48 AM

Wonderful and exceptional photos. Thank you for sharing!

frenchaucoeur May 2nd, 2022 08:52 AM

Thank you for these gorgeous photos. After four prolonged stays, including one two-week visit, and innumerable day visits, Aix remains my favorite place in France for reasons I can't quite explain--the sheer beauty of it is a big part of it, of course, and the human size and pace are others. Add in culture and history, the beauty of the surrounding countryside, the easy access to the coastal towns I love, and that should be enough reasons. But mostly it's just something ineffable, and I've given up trying to understand it.

I know Aix doesn't get that much love on Fodor's; people tend to find it boring and inconvenient and to prefer Avignon, a place I have always disliked intensely. Go figure. But the pandemic and other factors have kept me out of France (we canceled our 2020 trip and haven't planned another), so to see these glorious images was a true joy.

Merci mille fois!

zebec May 2nd, 2022 10:48 AM

So folks, that 'Aix Tilley hat rep' in the B&W foto was actually my wife, for those who may not have realized.

I want to acknowledge Coquelicot for having been behind the 'Photos of France' thread, a display that kept all of our travel energies stoked during the lockdown(s).
I also want to acknowledge CigaleChanta whose clever handle was the answer to my quiz-question regarding that second photo overall: see the top right of that colorful glass serving-plate with all the Provencal icons.

I want to acknowledge 'Autumnal Ade' again. Gotta question: has your national broadcaster-journalist Helen Welling (our Figeac landlady) returned to air on TV yet, after mourning her tragic loss?

I am not done. this is not the end.
(cont. below)

zebec May 2nd, 2022 11:29 AM

FlyGirl, this particular trip was during fall 2018. We arrived in Aix on Oct. 5th. We've been to Aix a couple times in decades past. As for your personal debate--why not return there, if its calling to you? Have you been to the Vasarely museum yet? The staff are idiots but the display is unique, due to the SIZE of the art.
Gudava, you are more than welcome. May everyone have their own ways of enjoying their travels, be it photographic, literary, artistic, eating, shopping or whatever.

Franchaucouer, you are more than welcome. I love the way you've described that certain 'je ne sais quoi' Aix appeal. Some places just 'work' for each of us, yeah? The where and the why don't matter. Our photo essay here just drew some snark on another travel site. A poster over there was critical of the overall touristy feel that typical Provencal imagery conveys. Their message was, "Hmph! It works for you North Americans and your fantasies of France. Why don't you go try photographing reality, like the gritty outer suburbs of Paris instead?!"

I guess our response to that would be:
a) one must learn from one's travels.
b) one thing that we've learned is that we are now seniors, with limited energies.
c) another thing that I've learned is to accept the needs of my traveling partner/wife: no more Zambian canoe treks for either of us.
d) travel is not some game with attached achievement scores Burundi 9.4 Sikkim 8.9 Santa Fe 3.7 Niagara-on-the-Lake 2.1 Moldava 7.7 etc. If someone is passionate about a certain locale, who are we to be critical of their preference?
e) does anyone seriously think that a retiree from overseas would come all the way to Paris and spend most of their time in one of the toughest inner-city neighbourhoods? (cue the Marseille beat-down scene with Matt Damon in 'Sweetwater)
f) I spent nearly my entire teaching career in inner-city neighbourhoods; no desire to seek them out again anywhere, during retirement. We don't want to get robbed or stabbed---we're funny that way.
g) we actually chose to rent a house in one of Paris' less-touristy areas near St. Blaise last time.
h) couldn't think of anything to add as an 'h' here.

Fun Fact: BBC Gardening guru Monty Don once spent a year in Aix as a young man.

Bonus Story:
Moments after photoing those Roman ruins near the Palais de Justice, I walked over to a nearby historic building. As I was taking a shot of its façade, there was a local couple nearby watching me closely. He came over and inquired why I was taking pictures there, then after I explained (i.e. they were just for fun), they both exhaled visibly and began to laugh. Turned out that they'd just put a bid in to buy that property and had come down from pairs to seal the deal that hour. They had assumed that i was a competing bidder on the home! We all laughed together and high-fived, a wonderful ending to that tale.

I am done. the storytelling

Adelaidean May 2nd, 2022 01:16 PM

I remember seeing Helen Wellings on TV, zebec, I see she is now described as ‘consumer editor’ for a TV station.
Awful to read about her son. I didn’t know.

Paqngo May 2nd, 2022 07:21 PM

What beautiful photos. They are certainly a reflection of a wonderful city. We really enjoyed our time there last September. I would love to go back.

TDudette May 3rd, 2022 04:46 AM

As always, wonderful shots, zebec. I especially love the ones with details and reflections.

Many of our impressions of a city are based upon short visits, or worse, a day trip. Rhody waxed nostalgic over the smell of Siena...upon a return, no smell...the bakery wasn't open.


zebec May 3rd, 2022 05:48 AM

Merci TDude. Olfactory recollections are indeed another sensual way to remember places. Interesting that Rhody recalled Siena that way. Did you have the same smell in your mind too?
Merci Paq, I remember your recent Aix visit, and I also recall your wrapped Arc de Triumphe shot, so unique.

One day, we'll finally learn how to properly digitize analogue fotos (current probs with Nikon Coolscanner), then we'll post some of our old African and South American imagery. My best work was probably done in India.
I am done. the shutterbugz

TDudette May 3rd, 2022 08:18 AM

"One day, we'll finally learn how to properly digitize analogue fotos".... As you know, z, more and more scanners can see negatives. My older Canon CanoScan 5600F has a gizmo for film.

​​​​​No, the the looks of the piazza grabbed me!


GaryCA May 3rd, 2022 06:34 PM

Just a splendid photo essay. Thanks so much. I really want to go there now.

zebec May 3rd, 2022 09:00 PM

Thank you for such positive words Gary! Regarding your query elsewhere, Avignon has its charms too but is in fact a small city, not a comfy town like Aix.
Guess wot? They banned me from TA!
I am done. The banning and the shame

allisonm May 4th, 2022 04:10 PM

Like Love the photos, Z.

KarenWoo May 4th, 2022 06:33 PM

Wow!!!!! Zebec, your photos are absolutely gorgeous!!! You make me "homesick" for Aix. Our oldest daughter lived in Aix for a couple years when she first got married. But her husband was working in Compiegne at the time, so they only saw each other on weekends the first couple years. Luckily, he was offered a great job in Provence, so they have been living together ever since then. She moved from Aix to another town/village in Provence. But we used to visit her quite frequently when she was in Aix, and we so enjoyed our visits. I miss it. She's only about 45 minutes away so we'll have to return soon.

I remember seeing wines chilling in fountains in Aix. Just love your photo. Love the photo of the calissons! We had our daughter's bridal shower at our home in Massachusetts, and our daughter brought boxes of calissons with her for the shower as an additional dessert for our guests. I remember carrying home about 40 small bars of lavender soap from Aix to give to our guests, so they had a taste of Provence!

zebec May 4th, 2022 08:25 PM

Thank you very much Allison, I noted very much appreciated your post above.

KW, I recall the exact village 'E' where your daughter settled. Your revelation last year regarding that, got me to thinkin' about what it must be like to live there---good for her!

My childhood friend Ginny had a younger brother who did something similar. During the '80s, he went to Montpelier, where he met a local lady. They got married and established their own family café there. Ginny recently described for us something very telling regarding the realities of Provencal restaurant culture. She once went to visit her aforementioned bro one summer, to lick her divorce wounds and explore Provence for the first time. She had barely unlatched her suitcase upstairs in her room, when her bro entered there to toss her an apron. He then said something along the lines of, "We don't get a single day off during these high-season months, so c'mon downstairs when you're ready to put in a shift!"

I am done. the reality check

Lydia May 5th, 2022 05:28 PM

what a wonderful photo collection! we rented an apartment in Aix in the fall of 2013 and what a wonderful treat to be reminded of that time by looking at your gallery. thank you.

Trophywife007 May 6th, 2022 07:14 AM

Beautiful photos, Z... you really have a gift there.


lrice May 6th, 2022 07:16 AM

Zebec, you are an amazing photographer! You know me… I stand by you regarding Aix! It is such a perfect combination of charm, small town vibes and LOTS to do and see. Have you found other towns in Europe that remind you of Aix?

Meanwhile I’ve been visiting family around the US and need to get back to my own trip report. I think I left off after Week 2.

We will definitely go back to Aix some day.


zebec May 6th, 2022 07:44 AM

We see TrophyWife gesticulating with an elderly shopkeeper in a store on the outskirts of Aix. The old shopkeeper is scratching his head, while squinting at her.

TW (frustrated, been at it awhile): "OK um, lets try this again. Um, uh... (deep sigh) JE SHERSHAY POOR LE 'PINK SAND'. AVEZ VOO LES PINK SANDS POOR LE CLASSROOM err, POOR ECOLE?!"
The shopkeeper stares at her. Then turns to look at his dog in the corner, the one pictured wearing the cap in the above poster. The dog flexes its shoulders then shakes its head as though to say, "Sorry, I haven't got a clue what she's trying to say."

I am done. the inside joke and smoking dog

zebec May 6th, 2022 07:58 AM

Merci Lydia,
So you were an Aix renter too. Great choice to do so in that town. Our rental was OK, but a 3 am storm on our final night resulted in some significant water damage. We rushed around with buckets and rags, but the TV/stereo was directly below the main ceiling leak. The following morn, both of us were perplexed by the attitude of the owner family. They apparently saw the damage as less of a big deal than we did.

I am done. the Noah's ark

zebec May 6th, 2022 08:31 AM

Folks, be sure to also check out Irice's great TR/photo essay about Aix:
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...vence-1706115/

As for your excellent question Irice, yes we have some similar places to recommend, mind you as always, choices can be subjective:

In Umbria, we favor Bevagna. Great place to base, with proximity to a wide range of Aix-cellent daytrips. Will post our Bevagna TR/fotos further down the road.
In Sicily, Siracusa might fit the bill, in the sense of its 'je ne sais quoi' vibe (how do we say that in Italian?).
In Shnrelb, the main port Zeebekia could suffice, but the compulsory draft for tourists turns off many.
In Spain, maybe Arcos de la Frontera? Not as popular as other more A-list places in Andalusia.
Back in France, I think that Figeac (Aveyron/Lot) comes close to the same atmosphere as Aix.

Let's hear other travelers' views in this same regard. Please don't hesitate to post below.

I am done. les amis d'Aix et comme ca

Trophywife007 May 6th, 2022 11:30 AM


Originally Posted by zebec (Post 17359963)
We see TrophyWife gesticulating with an elderly shopkeeper in a store on the outskirts of Aix. The old shopkeeper is scratching his head, while squinting at her.

TW (frustrated, been at it awhile): "OK um, lets try this again. Um, uh... (deep sigh) JE SHERSHAY POOR LE 'PINK SAND'. AVEZ VOO LES PINK SANDS POOR LE CLASSROOM err, POOR ECOLE?!"
The shopkeeper stares at her. Then turns to look at his dog in the corner, the one pictured wearing the cap in the above poster. The dog flexes its shoulders then shakes its head as though to say, "Sorry, I haven't got a clue what she's trying to say."

I am done. the inside joke and smoking dog

I have Google translate: sable rose, thank you very much. :D


cigalechanta May 24th, 2022 03:18 PM

Wonderful , Z. I see a book in your future.

mimi aka cigalechanta

Clousie May 24th, 2022 07:22 PM

Photos are magnificent, Z. You have a wonderful eye for photography. We all notice different things, especially those that help us recall special moments or the ambiance of an area. Personally, I love your use of light, shadows and reflections. You see things that many don't notice. Thanks so much for sharing.

Others have mentioned previous photo essays you've presented. Now I have to search for those.

Sassafrass May 24th, 2022 08:54 PM


Originally Posted by frenchaucoeur (Post 17358800)
Thank you for these gorgeous photos. After four prolonged stays, including one two-week visit, and innumerable day visits, Aix remains my favorite place in France for reasons I can't quite explain--the sheer beauty of it is a big part of it, of course, and the human size and pace are others. Add in culture and history, the beauty of the surrounding countryside, the easy access to the coastal towns I love, and that should be enough reasons. But mostly it's just something ineffable, and I've given up trying to understand it.

I know Aix doesn't get that much love on Fodor's; people tend to find it boring and inconvenient and to prefer Avignon, a place I have always disliked intensely. Go figure. But the pandemic and other factors have kept me out of France (we canceled our 2020 trip and haven't planned another), so to see these glorious images was a true joy.

Merci mille fois!

I also love Aix, also inexplicably. The first time I went was only for a day and I cried as we left, cried for not having gone earlier in life and thinking I might never return. However, DH is wonderful about letting me choose where we go, so we soon went to Aix a second time. I did not care much for Avignon either, but I could spend weeks in Aix.

Zebec, Love the photos.

zebec May 24th, 2022 10:27 PM

Clousie and Sassafrass, merci beaucoup! Very glad to hear about your return visits. Btw, those other TR/Photo essays here include:

-Passage to China
-En Pays Villefranchois (Aveyron/Lot)
-Cuckoo for Cucuron (new)
-Metaxi Mas: a 5-parter featuring Athens, plus islands Patmos, Samos, Santorini and Folegandros.
-The Return of the Son of Isabel's Italy (Venice)
-Vancouver island (I've forgotten the title)

Later this year, we'll try to post similar reports about Mexico, Costa Rica, California, more France (Lourmarin, Uzes, Avignon, Burgundy, Riviera, Dordogne, Paris) and England. Many many more await our preparation, a ton of which are old analogue imagery.
CC, we've long had a plan to self-publish a travel memoir just for fun, not for profit. Title: A Couple Travels (get it?). But the cost of reproducing color photography can be a serious expense and besides I am still completing the second edition to my musical memoir, another time-consuming self-publication project.

I am done. The end.

PS an idea for a new thread later this summer: 'travel photo tips and advice' to share with all


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