Completely off the beaten track on the Petite Ceinture
 

The Petite Ceinture, the old circular rail line around Paris is no secret to Parisians, even though it closed to passenger traffic in the 1930's. When you are in the outer arrondissements, it is impossible not to encounter it from time to time as it crosses your route either above you or below you. The thing that strikes most people is how nature runs absolutely wild all along this thin strip, and it is a welcome relief after seeing all of the manicured public parks and the trees subjected to pruning torture.

Naturally, ever since the creation of the Promenade Plantée on the old Bastille rail line, people have had all sorts of ideas about the Petite Ceinture, but the SNCF will not give up its urban treasure easily -- just imagine the market value of all of the real estate.

I have been wanting to do some exploring for a long time although my crawling-through-the-holes-in-the-fence days are gone. I decided to follow the Petite Ceinture in various places while remaining on public streets for the most part. I still saw at least 10 people down on the tracks during my wanderings, though, so people are still as attacted as ever to this forbidden pleasure.

There is big news, though: part of the line is being converted into a new Promenade Plantée, and the first section opened this month in the 15th arrondissement. The second section is supposed to open in a couple of weeks. As you can imagine, I made a little report about this, so if you have had your fill of all of the monuments and museums, here is something to see that will probably never make it to the guidebooks: http://tinyurl.com/oldrails

Always interesting, K. Interesting to imagine the possibilities of this. You do find the most unusual things to share. I love the little community garden near the beginning of your report. I also took interest in the repurposed station now used as a martial arts studio. My eyes are always drawn to "Muay Thai"' as my husband is quite gifted in that discipline and was taught by a Thai champion beginning at age 14.

Great report. Thanks.

What a nice accoutrement for my Sunday morning coffee - thanks, kerouac! What a fun sleuthing exercise. I love all the gardens along the way (and hot peppers in Paris - who knew?!)

I knew nothing about the Petite Ceinture before reading this, so thanks for the education. Great report.

Another very interesting posting, kerouac! Thanks!

marvelous report, Kerouac! I tried to follow your route, at least part of it, on Google street view. You can see much of the railway on the satellite imagery.

One aspect caught my interest; the Passage des Voûtes. I noticed that artist, or others had moved into the arches under the train tracks and set up housekeeping, or art studios/galleries. What's with that? Are they squatters or is there a legal way of doing this? In any case, I'd love to see what is in that gallery. Perhaps in May, as our apartment will be near the canal.

Thanks so much for another interesting photo essay. You take me to parts of Paris that my destroyed knees won't take me.

Kerouac, you are starting to remind me of my father's Uncle Sam. He lived in Brooklyn and explored all of New York City on foot, documenting his travels in a diary he kept all his life. As each subway line opened or was extended, he would ride to the end and explore. My father inherited his curiosity about the city and I was exposed to many nooks and crannies that few people know about.

I love the spirit of urban exploration that you exhibit.

As always I enjoy your photos and the story that goes with them. We'll be in Paris soon but probably won't follow the trails this time. We're headinh ogg to the Prix de Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp and a small side trip to Rouen.

sorry about the typos. I'm typing with my left hand as I recently broke my right arm.

Aw, sorry, opaldog. I love these photos, and on my list for next trip to Paris. Thanks, kerouac.

Thanks for the interesting photo essay. You always find the most interesting places!

I can never stress enough the importance of exploring Paris at random. Today, I was continuing to take pictures for the report in the 18th arrondissement, where I have now lived for 22 years (out of a total of 40 years in Paris). And I discovered all sorts of interesting streets and buildings that I had never seen before, almost to the extent of being sidetracked from my "mission" of following the rails.

You da man, Kerouac.

What a beautiful report. We all need to be a tourist in our own city once in a while. It is amazing the things you can find. We have an area that goes through the downtown area that has been cleared for a bike route. Your photos of the abandoned train track reminded me of this area. We also have a few restaurant that are housed in abandoned train stations. Great use use of old buildings.

I love the garden use of the area. Many abandoned lots in our downtown area are being used for gardens to use in local soup kitchen.

Thank you for sharing.

There will be more to come, but I am off to Brazil for 2 weeks, so it will have to wait until I return.

Another marvel!

We were in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in May and saw those tracks just after we got off the bus at the top of the Parc. Who knew what wonders awaited Just Beyond?

If I were single . . . .

I have added several new sections to this report for anybody who is interested. And I will continue working on it until I have done the complete circuit.

Until then, I hope you have a great vacation!
You give me little vicarious ones with your work...

Truly fascinating! Wonderful photos, and your commentary is always so compelling.

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/17/tr...foot.html?_r=0

NY Times Travel Page Last Week has an article on walking part of the Petite Ceinture.