Cinque Terre trip/trains
 

Hi, DD and I will be taking a train from Pisa to Cinque Terre on July 11th on an upcoming trip to Europe. We will be staying overnight and heading back to Rome the evening of July 12th as I have a 6.15am flight to catch on July 13th from FCO to Boston. We would like to take a train around 5pm so we could get most of the day in C.T. but there is only one train after that. Is this a foolish plan? Would love to hear from people who are more familiar with the reliability of the trains there than I am.

In case the train does get cancelled etc, what are our options (if any) for reaching Rome, say by bus?

I have until tomorrow to cancel my flight from Rome and book it from Florence instead but it has an awfully long layover so would rather not! Unless everyone here strongly feels otherwise so would appreciate a quick word of advise. Relying on my fellow Fodorites to help out here!

Thanks!

Another option would be to take the train to Cinque Terre from Pisa in the morning instead of around noon (after seeing the Leaning Tower of Pisa per current plan) and take a train back to Pisa/Florence the next morning, spend some time there and then take the evening train to Rome. I may be assuming wrong, but I would think the trains from Florence to Rome may be more reliable?

Not sure what we would do with our luggage in that case, probably leave it at the station if there are lockers.

Do the trains from Cinque Terre to Rome need to be booked ahead of time?

Thanks!

It is extremely unlikely that the train would be cancelled. It would only be for an extraordinary reason, something like a very unforeseen accident. Not anything you can plan for. Trains run as advertised it Italy, although there can be delays.

Train strikes in Italy, by law, cannot be "wildcat" strikes. They must be announced well in advance. It is possible (though not likely) that in the next few weeks a strike could be organized that require you to rearrange your plans. But other things could also end up affecting a flight out of Florence. You can't eliminate all the risks of travel in advance.

You were typing your second post while I was answering your first. Yes, your second plan is better, because if there is a strike, the fast trains from Florence to Rome are guaranteed to run in spite of the strike.

There is luggage storage at both the Pisa & the Florence main train stations. You need to check the opening hours. You can find that info online.

Since you absolutely must be in Rome and you are traveling in peak tourist season, you should book whichever train you plan to take in advance. Lock it in.

Although the trains may not get canceled, long delays may occur, at least on regional trains. I found that out a few weeks ago when I spent a few days in the Italian Riviera and rode a bunch of regional trains for day trips between Genoa and the Cinque Terre. Some delays were only a few minutes; others were more than 30 minutes. Occasionally they were right on time or early. ;-)

Speaking of Italian trains: the Trenit app for Trenitalia trains was extremely useful to me: not only can you buy train tickets in the app (show the ticket on your phone on the train, no need to print anything), it also shows real-time delays of any train or trip you are following.

Another option to consider: flying from Genoa back to Rome. This might make sense if you are staying at say an airport hotel near FCO the final night; then you could fly from Genoa to FCO the final night, go right to the airport hotel, and never have to go back into Rome at the end. Alitalia flights within Italy seem to be subsidized and sometimes surprisingly cheap.

Flights out the Genoa airport are more subject to cancellations due to wind and weather (and strikes) than are the trains that travel along the Italian Riviera.

Delays can be annoying but in your case they are irrelevant. If you need to be in Rome and want to leave from le Cinque Terre, you can get to Rome using the trains -- and even if the train arrives in your station late it will often make up the time later down the track, so your arrival time in Rome might not be all that much later.

The train tracks along the Italian Riviera were constructed many years ago in an extremely unfavorable terrain. Unlike other parts of Italy, where train tracks were built in river valleys, where it is possible to widen the tracks or construct completely new tracks for fast trains, the narrow strip of land between the mountains and the sea offers no possibility for widening or adding tracks. A lot more tourism into the area has meant running more trains on the same old tracks, through the same narrow train station and tunnels. Just a recipe for traffic jams on the tracks.

In case you decide to leave from le Cinque Terre for Rome what you need to worry about is whether or not you need to change from a regional train to another train and make a tight connection in someplace like La Spezia or Pisa. If the regional train you plan to take leaving le Cinque Terre is delayed, then you run the risk of missing the connection. What you want to make sure is that there are more trains leaving La Spezia or Pisa later in the day.

massimop: <i>In case you decide to leave from le Cinque Terre for Rome what you need to worry about is whether or not you need to change from a regional train to another train and make a tight connection in someplace like La Spezia or Pisa. If the regional train you plan to take leaving le Cinque Terre is delayed, then you run the risk of missing the connection.</i>

That's what I was getting at above.

Getting to the Cinque Terre early on the first day and leaving early the second day is the best solution, although I think the whole plan is a bit over the top. The idea of leaving the Cinque Terre in the late afternoon is risky, for the reasons mentioned above, and also very inconvenient. You'll have to check out of your room early in the day and leave the luggage somewhere. If you're staying at a guest house or B&B, they may not be able to hold your luggage, and there is no left luggage facility at the station. Even if you solve that problem, you'll have no place to go freshen up or rest during the day, which could be quite hot. Even to use the bathroom could be a problem. The Cinque Terre is practically sinking under the weight of tourists at that time of year, and all facilities suffer from the crowds.

If you go early on the first day, I would try to get there very early, so you can see something before the bus tours begin to arrive.

I hate to tell you this, but I think this trip to the Cinque Terre is a mistake, unless you can do it at a different time. (It's a place I myself wouldn't visit in the summer at all.) No matter how you slice it, you're trying to see Pisa and the Cinque Terre, and get back to Rome in two days. In the best of circumstances, you'll have an exhausting first day, a long train trip (as well as a possibly tiring visit to Pisa) on the second day, and a long flight the third day. You'll get home in need of a nice relaxing vacation.

I agree w/ bvlenci. This sounds like a horrible couple of days. Huge crowds, lots of travel, a very early AM flight and probably heat.

excited_confused,

If you want to go to le Cinque Terre, don't be put off by those comments or take them as the ultimate. Some people can handle some things that others can't.

(Just as an example, in April I want to from the le Cinque Terre to Rome and back again in a single day. Left the Riviera at 10am, took the train back from Rome at 7pm. I had business, so it's not a vacation recommendation, but I wasn't horribly exhausted, starving, stressed out, blah blah blah. If you and your daughter are having second thoughts, or hadn't realized you might face heat or crowded places in Italy, don't let me talk you into it. But if you're tending to think you're up for it, you likely won't have a melt down or regret it).

I think the quick schedule is doable, too. I travel like this sometimes. I don't find myself exhausted, either. But this style of travel isn't for everyone. I've done it, so I know what I'm getting myself into.

I will say that the Cinque Terre trails in July are probably pretty overrun with American tourists. I was there a few weeks ago - didn't hike (have hiked it before). It was busy enough in May. A gal I met on the plane home hiked in the CT about the same time I was there this trip and said it was indeed quite busy on the trails, almost uncomfortably so - in May. In July, it might be even more crowded. By contrast, on the difficult hike I did from San Rocco over to San Fruttuoso that same week, the trails were almost empty; there were long periods when I was completely alone (kind of dumb in retrospect to be hiking alone out there).

Thanks so much everyone for all the timely responses, was very helpful. At least I am not rushing to cancel my flight from Rome based on the feedback. Yes, I have considered the heat and the fact that time is short, hadn't really thought of the crowds but not sure if that is enough to deter me. I realize that just spending a couple of days in Pisa/Florence would be a much more relaxing option but I feel I want to see Cinque Terre and I don't see myself making a special trip to Italy for it so this seems like a good opportunity. Temperatures show in the 80's which doesn't seem that bad but maybe it seems hotter with the sun?

I read that people make day trips from Florence so I figured if we have one overnight it shouldn't be too too bad! We are actually flying in from Edinburgh to Pisa on the 10th late evening so had thought of doing 2 nights in Dublin instead which would be much easier too and then I could just fly out of Dublin but Dublin isn't really on my list of must-see places, even though I know it's supposed to be really nice. I feel like at this point in my life I need to spend my vacation days and dollars on places I REALLY want to see!

I will book the regional trains separately from the one from La Spezia to Florence so I have more time in between, is 30-35 minutes enough for the connection? What is the best website to book the trains? And is assigned seating an option?

Frencharmoire, thanks for letting me know that Italian train strikes are announced well in advance, that's comforting to know! I have no problem spending our time in Pisa and Florence if that happens, just didn't want to be stuck in Cinque Terre because of a strike!

Any recommendations on staying in Vernazza or Monterosso? I assume we would have to get off at the place we are stying first, leave our luggage and then backtrack or forward track as the case may be. Are we OK just going to these 2 towns or is it important to see all 5?

See links below for rooms I have found, I would have preferred Vernazza but that's a room on the 3rd floor whereas Monterosso is on the 1st. My knees aren't what they used to be though one day should not be a huge problem.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/6841538

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/14384638

Sorry for the looong message and thanks again for the help. All input is appreciated!

I'm not quite following where you are coming from, and don't how much luggage you are carrying or whether your daughter plans to leave with you for Rome or stay north, but if you want to minimize your exposure to crowds in le Cinque Terre, would this work for you?

Arrive in Pisa, put all your luggage in the train station EXCEPT for a toothbrush & your electronics. Go see the tower (have lunch as needed?) but then go to le Cinque Terre. By that time crowds will be thinning. Check into your B&B, poke around, have dinner, sleep, get up next morning to enjoy the village before the crowds begin to trickle in. Buy some food in the village to eat on the train back to Pisa for lunch, collect your luggage in Pisa, take a train to Rome (don't bother going to Florence) and you will be in Rome in time for dinner.

A big part of the enjoyment of the Italian Riviera is sunsets & enjoying dinner outdoors, and the freshness of the morning. Of course some people like to hike, but it not mandatory. If you are up fairly early in the morning and the sea is calm, you can take a boat and sea the 5 villages from the sea. It is definitely hotter in the sun on the shadeless cliffs, so try to time your visit for late afternoon/overnight/early morning.

If your knees are an issue, stay in Monterosso al Mare, especially if you end up taking your luggage there. But all the villages are nice in their own way. (Corniglia the most difficult for stairs).

My suggestion to leave your luggage in Pisa only works if your valuables -- like cameras or electronics -- are not too heavy to tote around with you.

Hope you enjoy the adventure.

You can buy train tickets on the Trenitalia website directly. Or, use their app, Trenit, on your phone, to buy them - then no need to print them out.

Vernazza is smaller than Monterrosso (which is big enough to have an "old town" and a "new town"). I'd choose Vernazza in a heartbeat myself, all else being equal. But Vernazza is also Rick Steves's favorite town...so it tends to get crowded and booked up quickly.

By this late date, finding somewhere to stay that doesn't cost a fortune may be a challenge. Basing in Levanto isn't a bad option, and there are more conventional hotels there (so maybe easier to store luggage), though the train station in Levanto is a good 10 minute walk from the center of town.

You can buy train tickets on the Trenitalia website directly. Or, use their app, Trenit, on your phone, to buy them - then no need to print them out.>

Yes for long-distance fast trains but NOT for regional trains like Pisa to CT - many say not to buy those in advance - no benefit and some drawbacks

but yes Andrew gives good advaice to use www.trenitalia.com for the train to Rome, either via Florence or the more scenic coastal line - fares be be as low as 9 euros a ticket.

For more about trains check www.seat61.com (invaluable advice on booking your own discount tickets); www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

PalenQ: <i>"You can buy train tickets on the Trenitalia website directly. Or, use their app, Trenit, on your phone, to buy them - then no need to print them out.>

Yes for long-distance fast trains but NOT for regional trains like Pisa to CT - many say not to buy those in advance - no benefit and some drawbacks.</i>

Why not? I bought numerous regional train tickets with the app. I missed a train, and a Trenitalia agent said I could use the ticket (which was for a specific regional train) on any regional train that day going to the same destination. The benefit was that I didn't have to wait in line at a ticket machine or for an agent, didn't need a chip and PIN credit card (though I did have one - many do not) to use at a ticket machine, etc.

Regional train tickets bought online cannot be exchanged or refunded for any reason. They're normally good for only four hours, not all day. (The regional tickets you buy in a ticket machine or from the ticket agent are good for an entire day.) The agent you spoke to maybe was not well informed about the difference, or maybe he didn't realize you had bought the ticket online. In any case, if you miss a train, on many lines you'll have no trouble getting another train within the four-hour limit.

Here is an experience of mine, which made me stop buying regional tickets online. I used to get regional tickets online if they were part of a single trip that involved a reserved train. Once I bought tickets online for a trip to Milan, departing from Senigallia. The trip included a regional train to Bologna and the transfer to a high speed train from there to Milan. This was an advertised connection on the Trenitalia website. When I got to Senigallia, I saw that the regional train was greatly delayed and that I'd miss the connection in Bologna. However, there was a later Intercity (reserved) train to Bologna that would get me there in time to make my connection.

I went to the ticket window to ask if I could exchange the regional ticket for a ticket on the Intercity, paying the difference. The answer was no, it was impossible. The ticket agent was sympathetic, but told me there was no mechanism on the computer for exchanging a regional ticket bought online, not even for a fault of the railway. Since we were planning to meet friends in Milan, I just bought the Intercity tickets. The loss wasn't great, but I've never bought a regional ticket online since, not even as part of a multi-leg trip. Now when we go to Milan I try to buy tickets on reserved trains all the way, or else I buy the regional ticket at the station.

I meant to include the text from the Trenitalia web site that explains the duration of regional tickets bought online. It's in Italian, but you can plug it into translate.google.com to get a decent English version.

"I biglietti acquistati online hanno la validità di 4 ore dalla partenza del treno prescelto e non necessitano di convalida."

Well, I suppose it's time to haul out my video of summer crowds in the Cinque Terre.

http://genova.repubblica.it/cronaca/...ti_-123899365/

The article is in Italian, but the video has no voice.

Maybe it was a particularly bad day.

OMG, that is CRAZY, was not prepared for that! Now that I have booked all my tickets and room in Monterosso, there is no turning back but I'm glad you posted that, at least we will make sure to get to the train station extra early! And maybe abandon the idea of village hopping by train and just stay in Monterosso and maybe go to vernazza for dinner..

Are the ferries a better option to get to the other islands?

So I bought tickets for the 18.16 express train from La Spezia to Rome, mainly because there were only 3 left at 20 euros apiece and I figured at that price, we couldn't go wrong. Even if we do change things, it is not a lot of money to lose.
Had trouble with trenitalia so based on advise from Seat61, bought them on ItaliaRail, had no problems there.

Seems like from the posts above, I should buy the tickets from Pisa to CT and the return to La Spezia at the station?

Thanks all!

bvlenci has been trying to scare everybody from going to le Cinque Terre with her nuclear video for month after month on Fodor's. She hates the place because of the one time she went. If she can't scare people with the idea a train ride there is too difficult, or an overnight is not enough time, she has the video at the ready. At least this time she ended with "maybe it was a particularly bad day." Doh. Maybe it was. But I'll be she is so excited she got a bit rise out of you. She does the same thing for Lago di Como. She went & it was too crowded the day she went, and now she has a mission to make it sound like hell on earth.

Day trippers come in and out at certain hours at le Cinque Terre. Generally betewen 10 and 4. If you find it unpleasantly crowded, go to lunch in another town (Levanto? Bonassola), come back later. Get up early to take the boat ride. (Boats don't run if it is windy).

There are only so many hotels in le Cinque Terre, so evenings are not crowded. In July, the sun sets near 9pm. You might even enjoy a boat ride around 7pm if they are still running.

Maybe it will rain. Maybe you'll hate it as much as bvlenci. Good luck!

excited_confused: <i>Had trouble with trenitalia so based on advise from Seat61, bought them on ItaliaRail, had no problems there.</i>

Really - what kind of problems with the Trenitalia site? Besides using the Trenit app a few times, I used the Trenitalia website once to buy a ticket from Genoa to Nice without issues, using my standard American credit card. I wasn't aware people still had problems with the site, other than not being able to register (so having to book tickets as a guest each time).

<i>Seems like from the posts above, I should buy the tickets from Pisa to CT and the return to La Spezia at the station?</i>

Sure, that should work fine. Find a machine that takes cash or buy them from an agent at a time when you aren't in a rush, waiting for a train at the station or something. But I found the machines very easy to use; they have an English option for instructions.

I loved the Cinque Terre too - I hope it isn't too crowded for you! At least you know what to expect now.

For added perspective:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...a_Liguria.html

Supposedly, the recently upgraded train service within the CT (Cinque Terre Express) has decreased some of the overcrowding, at least at off-peak times.

My two great-nieces (20-somethings) were in Manarola about 10 days ago for 3 nights. They had a great time but also said it was too crowded for their liking. Their favorite thing was a group kayak paddle.

Are you saying, MassimoP, that the video is "fake news" filmed with thousands of extras? Surely it was taken on a day when there were cruise ships in port in Livorno, but that happens fairly often. And surely it's better in the early morning and late in the day, when the day trippers have gone.

You say I have personal motives. What motives could I have? It's not like I'm pushing some alternative destination in which I have an interest. I always say that I'm giving my own personal opinion when I say something negative about a destination. When I ask questions about a place I'm thinking of visiting, I like to hear personal opinions about it.

You, on the other hand, are firmly opposed to telling people anything negative about these places. Can you honestly assure excited_confused that she won't find conditions like those shown in the video, which was published by a respected Italian newspaper? She's going there in July, not April or October.

I've been to the Cinque Terre twice, not once, both times in the off season (once was in October), and both time before the new cruise port in Livorno was opened, which greatly increased the crowds. Both times it was already too crowded for my taste, and I remember saying to my husband, "I'd hate to be here in high season."

Both times, we took the boats to see the towns, and they weren't terribly crowded, but, as I said, it was the off season and the number of tourists was not what it is now, with the new cruise port. I can't say how crowded the boats are now in the summer, especially not in recent years, because I haven't been back in the past ten years.

I didn't hate the Cinque Terre at all, although I wouldn't have returned after seeing it once, except that we were traveling with friends who wanted to go there. The five towns are completely given over to tourism, and are not large enough to absorb the crowds gracefully. If it rains, as it did one of the times I was there, there was nothing to do indoors except browse souvenir shops.

Nor did I hate Lake Como, where I spent the better part of two days, that is, two nights, with an early morning arrival. I had originally planned three, but cut it back because of family obligations, and to be honest, I wasn't sorry, because we had already visited two towns, and two of the villas, and taken all of the boat trips available, including some of them twice. Other than that, there wasn't much to do there. We probably would have enjoyed hiking, but we were there during a heat wave. We did take a long walk along the lake front in Bellagio. I would have spent more time in the gardens of the villas if I had been there earlier in the spring, when they were in full bloom.

Both places have some very nice scenery, especially the Cinque Terre. However, I've seen scenery as beautiful, and more beautiful, in other parts of Italy, where you can enjoy nature without thousands of other people. And there are plenty of scenic hiking trails near where we live, in Le Marche. Rather than hating these two destinations, I just can't get terribly enthusiastic about them.

Since you're definitely going to the Cinque Terre, excited_confused, I suggest, as you say, going as early as possible. If the weather is pleasant, and if you don't mind a bit of a climb, try to hike some of the higher trails during the busiest part of the day. The lower trails are like a column of ants shuffling along; half the lower trails have been closed for several years because of the risk of landslides. If it's too hot, or if you're not interested in hiking, try to go to the upper part of whatever village you're staying in, and find a nice restaurant with outdoor seating, and preferably a good view, and take a long lunch.

And I hope you give us a trip report when you get back.

Hi, thanks for the input, yes we are definitely going at this point and I am not really interested in hiking in the heat so will chill! I doubt we will hate it, we are perfectly ok with doing most of what we want to do in the evening so we should be fine. We have no agenda, no must do's, that certainly helps. Just need to make sure we get on that train to Rome...!

Can we buy tickets for the boat for a single ride or is it only an all day ticket?

Since we are staying in Monterosso, am thinking we should head there first from La Spezia, leave our bags at the B&B, and maybe head to the beach for a bit? We can visit either Vernazza or the other towns in the evening and do whatever we did not see the next morning. We will head back to Monterosso to pick up our bags and head out for our 6.15pm train to Rome from La Spezia. What time do you think is a good time to leave Monterosso so we definitely have enough time to make the train?

Thanks for all your perspectives, I realize that every person is different and will like different things but it's still great to get different opinions!

You can buy tickets for a single boat ride - yes. I did that a few weeks ago: bought a ticket from Riomaggiore to Vernazza, just a few minutes before the boat left Riomaggiore.

If you stop in Riomaggiore, one favorite thing to do there - given that you plan not to hike - is to sit for a few minutes in the little town square (just above the main level of town) and eat a take-away lunch or something. Not many tourists are there, and if the kids are in school (maybe not in summer?) you might hear them in the adjacent school, practicing music or something. It makes me feel like I'm not in a super touristy place, at least for a few minutes.

Hi, thanks for the input, yes we are definitely going at this point and I am not really interested in hiking in the heat so will chill!>

But do do the boardwalk like flat short hike along the Viale d'Amour (sp?) from Riomaggiore a little bit at least - and then you can say you hiked the CT!

PalenQ: <i>But do do the boardwalk like flat short hike along the Viale d'Amour (sp?) from Riomaggiore a little bit at least - and then you can say you hiked the CT!</i>

Sadly, the Via dell'Amore is still closed due to a slide. I saw it from the boat when I was there recently - looks pretty bad. No wonder it has been closed for a while.

Two of the four lower trails have been closed, I think since 2011, when there was a very bad flood above the town. Apart from the one landslide, there is the risk of slides in other places. The higher trails are not affected, since there's not much land above them to slide.

I recently read that that the Via d'Amour trail had been reopened or part of it -not so? Me I don't know. But if opened it's a neat 1 km stroll to Manarola from Riomaggiore - maybe parts near Rio are open?

http://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/cin...via-dell-amore

Confusing info but Andrew has first-hand info.

I was in CT in July two years ago. Stayed in Riomaggiore for four nights.

Yes I found the towns a bit claustrophobic, but did not find the trails to be overrun.

We departed for our hikes about 8-8:30 am and it was surprisingly quiet. In fact, we didn't even have to pay the park fee at Monterosso because there was no one manning the booth! The first day we took the train from Riomaggiore to Monterosso and did the Monterosso to Vernazza hike and it was very quick (maybe 90 min?) so we had a drink in Vernazza and then found another hike behind Vernazza to some shrine.

One of the days we hiked from Riomaggiore to Porto Venere. That was a bit long (took us five hours) although there were a couple of places to stop. It was more challenging than the main trails between the 5 towns. After having a meal and walking around in Porto Venere we took the ferry back to Riomaggiore. That was a lovely view, and as we pulled into Riomaggiore there was a huge line of tourists waiting for the boat, so I'm glad we did it the way we did.

I would not recommend going to CT for the beaches - Monterosso was especially dirty and overcrowded. I am stopping overnight this year since we are passing by on our way to Elba, just so my husband can see it and maybe do one hike.

But my point is that I went in July during peak season and the trails were still pleasant. Some of us have no choice but to travel in peak tourist season unfortunately.

we didn't even have to pay the park fee at Monterosso because there was no one manning the booth>

Lucky they did not check on the way out as they did me once.

I hope you do a bit of hiking. My favorite hike ever. Just don't wait to use the bathroom at the Vernazza train station. It was a hole in the floor and very nasty.
We changed trains at Pisa. You can use the ferry for village hopping just check the times close.

PalenQ: <i>I recently read that that the Via d'Amour trail had been reopened or part of it -not so? Me I don't know. But if opened it's a neat 1 km stroll to Manarola from Riomaggiore - maybe parts near Rio are open?</i>

Not open as of three weeks ago. I asked, then I walked up to the gate on the Riomaggiore side, and the gate was shut and locked. I could also see the slide from the boat later.

Maybe some of it is open on the Manarola side, but I didn't stop in Manarola this time. And I doubt it. I didn't see a soul walking out there from the boat, not in any part of it.

Well that settles that -perhaps they will reopen some for the high tourist season to get some money but it has been opened and closed many times in past- never know until get there but Andrew's first-hand observation puts that in doubt.

Will definitely try and get in some hiking, just that hiking is not our reason for going there, nor is the beach but would like to experience both while we are there! :)
Was thinking of hiking from Monterosso to Vernazza, either the evening we get there or am the next day. Is that mostly a downhill or uphill hike? We can take the train the other way.

Andrew, thanks for the single boat ticket info, any recollection of how much that was?

I am still getting very nervous reading about train delays etc. What time should we be leaving Monterosso to make it in good time for the 6/15 train from La Spezia?