We are going to hike and enjoy the scenery. Thanks for the feedback. I think I will leave our reservations as they stand. We love hiking in Colorado and along the Oregon coast, so I am excited to hike between the towns. If any of you have any concerns about certain sections, I would appreciate knowing what you think. I run daily, so the fitness aspect does not concern me, but I have no desire to hike where I am likely to slide down the side of a cliff because the trails are too close to the edge or otherwise dangerous. Any thoughts about that? Thanks PJK

Thanks to everyone for their help. I've now read a number of posts, here and elsewhere, that say how crowded Vernazza is in particular, so I'll stay in Corniglia or Manarola (I was going to do that anyway-it's where I stayed before-Vernazza was actually swarming when I visited in '98.). I've found quite a few reasonably priced accomodations online, and no one has indicated that trails and the beaches, esp. Guvano, will be too crowded in May/early June, so I will plan to go.

PJK: When I was there, though I had read in a couple guidebooks that there were steep/scary parts of the trail between the villages, I found it quite tame. Maybe people that aren't especially active find it challenging, but you indicate that you hike, so it should be fine (esp. since they've done quite a bit of work on the trail since it's become a national park).

I loved the CT when I was there in 2002. Stayed in Monterosso, and considered the CT my holiday within my holiday. I played on the beach, hiked the trail (which wasn't scary) and explored the towns. Your experience is what you make of it. Rome was crowded. Florence was crowded. Venice was crowded. And yet I am returning to these places and CT with my new husband in a few months. Just enjoy.

We were in CT last May and the crowds left in late afternoon--stayed in Vernazza for about $80 pr night. It was very pleasant and we ate well. We stayed two nights & hiked the five trails--very scenic. Monterosso offers more hotels plus has some shopping--we bought fantastic pesto--& has a beach. The Ligurian Sea was way too cold for us but many were enjoying it. I would not change my plans to go to another area. I will have to say those trains connecting the 5 towns often do not run each hour. This is something to consider if you choose to dine in a different town from where you are staying. Also to enjoy in Vernazza is the sunset with a glass of wine. Enjoy CT!

To quote Yogi Berra......"Nobody goes there anymore because it is too crowded"!

I could not resist

But, more on the topic..... The time of year would be a issue in any location...but If I had the chance I would go again in a heartbeat!! Beautiful area!!
JOHN

oops! That's what I get for not reading all the posts!....Sorry to jump on your quote "Travelnut"!
John

I just began looking at this board and found this timely discussion on CT. We have a group of 5 and will be there in mid-May for a couple of nights. It sounds like the crowds will not be overwhelming by then. We're in the process of making reservations at Locanda dei duxi in Riomaggiore- anyone have experience with them? Thanks.

To Edward2005: Best Westerns vary according to location. In Europe they are individually owned hotels, moderately priced (not budget) and usually with lots of character and local charm.

To Mimar

You are exactly right about European Best Westerns being indepentantly owned. They link up with BW for marketing purposes and to get access to the computer reservation systems as any experienced European traveler would know. I have stayed in BW that are over 200 years old in Europe. Hardly the cookie cutter design BW you see in the USA at the interstate exits. The Logis de France hotels are a similiar example as is the Utell Hotels.

A good reason to use these hotels is to get the no hassle cancellation policy of BW or Logis de France. This is a valuable benefit when booking at independantly owned hotels, guaranteeing with a credit card and want the possiblity of a flexible trip.Also you can accumulate frequent user points for free nights in a relatively short period of time if you travel as much as I do which is about 150-200 nights per year in hotels.

Larry J

I'll just add my two cents on a trip to the CT in July, 2004.

We (husband & two young teen kids) were staying in Lucca for several days and decided to do a day trip to the Cinque Terre. We drove to Levanto - the nothern most town and parked easily at the train station. We took the train to Riomaggiore - the Southern most town.

It was crowded with tourist groups (most notably a HUGE group of Indians)but we quickly started on the walking path. This part is paved and very flat. We thought the views were breathtaking and even this easy section was not very crowded.

When we hit Manarola we got off the path and walked around the village a bit. We grapped a gelato and poked around. It was not as crowded here. Then back on the path to Corniglia.

This stretch of the path was certainly more of a "path" but not hiking at all. It was really quiet and we only saw a few people - including a local man selling watermelon. Once we reached Corniglia we climbed the steps (over 300) to the village. It was quite hot at this point in the day but it felt good to get some exercise. We loved Corniglia and had a super lunch at DaMananan. Great ambiance and food. The village was charming and not at all crowded. We then climbed back down the stairs and hopped on the train fairly quickly to Vernazza.

This is where we saw loads of people - mostly Italinas searching for a tiny spot in the sun. There is no real beach here so people put out their blankets on rocks and concrete. The shops were kind of tacky, touristy so we left quickly and took a water taxi to Monterosso. It was a pleasant jaunt in the boat - about 10 minutes. Again, the views of the colorful villages were just beautiful!

Once in Monterosso the crowds were with us again. Not so terrible that we couldn't wait to leave but I can see how it might take away from the experience. We visited an unrestored church which was fascinating and I made one of my best Italian purchases. 3 large colorful, sturdy plastic recycling bags with handles that snap together with white Italian lettering -Carta, Plastica, Vetro & Lattine. I just adore them!!

We rushed to catch the train back to Levanto without a problem getting a seat and then picked up our car back in the lot. We did this all in seven hours.

Obviously, this may not be the best way to really experience the CT but we had a really enjoyable day and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it.

By the way, this was on a Sunday.

KarinW
This sounds great. I plan to spend a day in the CT so this information is very helpful.

christy 1, do you know of a location in Manorola, or Corniglia that has air conditioning and a view? Sounds like it's imperative for a summer visit.

Since we haven't been to CT for a few years, I don't want to comment about the extent of the crowds. However, I know it is growing more popular, and I'd always avoid mid-July to August.

I agree with the people who say that the best reasons for visiting the Cinque Terre are its footpaths and rugged views. We also chose wisely in the hotel -- the Hotel Porto Rocca in Monterosso. For our tastes, it is very civilized. Its location on the edge of town, perched on a cliff, allowed easy access to the attractions of town, but you could retreat to a pleasant villa-like existence. Half board required, i.e. breakfast and lunch or dinner; the food is good; and the bartenders it he lounge are very sociable. Breakfast on the terrace is a real delight. There are also "family" like touches, ie.e if you don't finish you rwine one night, they cork it for you, and bring it out for you the next. The hotel has its own section on the small, pebbly beach in town. Some drawbacks: it is up a very steep walkway. They will come to get you for your lugage, etc., but people who have trouble with steep inclines or stairs would do well to go elsewhere.

The trails between Monterosso and Vernazza and Vernazza and Corniglia are more like goat paths, but very enjoyable. But be aware that this is not the stoll-with-the-guard rail kind of hinking in those stretches, and there are spots where those afraid of heights will have a problem. ..But we loved it!

We visited in the very early days of September. There were tourists, but I can't say we were overwhelmed. Again, partly this is due to where we stayed, partly that I think the major wave of European tourists had deaprted, and the "fall" wave had not yet hit.

Santa Marguerita is more of a small city, but with many more restaurants, beach, etc.

Pawleys-I didn't have air condidtioning when I stayed for 4 days in June, and it wasn't a problem. The weather was very pleasant with nice coastal breezes.

Christy 1,I don't know how much hotter August will be than June; but, my daughter and son in law (who I'm helping plan the trip for) really think AC will be imperative. I'll pass on your suggestion.

Yes, I imagine August could be hot, and if your travel partners don't deal with heat well, it's probably worth it to find a/c.

Due to kid's school schedule we had to wait until end of June - early July for our trip to Italy last year. We did Rome, Tuscany, CT and Venice.

Some days were VERY hot. Rome was better than I thought but some days in Tuscany were quite hot. That being said, you just went slow, relaxed, dressed appropriately (wore a hat) and went on. It was well worth it!!!!

I must admit, though, that I thoroughly enjoyed refreshing after long days outside in an airconditioned room. I could not imagine being in a non A/C during the summer. You can get refreshed and head back out again.

Since we were in the CT for only one day (see above post) I can't really say what it was like in the evening. I know when we were in Luca in the evening it was delightful. Again, I would want an AC room.

Good luck.

we stayed 3 days and nights in Manarolo two years ago and thought it one of the best parts of our visit to Italy. Got off the train and had no clue how to find our hotel - a very kind man heard us asking for A La Porta Rossa [a great place to stay!] and motioned for us to follow up an incline along the hill - sure enough, there it was. Our hostess, Laudina, had equipped our room with a great fan to ward off the 2003 heat wave [we were the in late June]. She had reservations for us that evening at El Porticillo, one of the best dinner places during two weeks in Italy [and one we revisited a second night - only in part to taste their wonderful Lemoncillo!]

I agree with folks who thought Vernazzia was too crowded [way too many tee shirt shops!!], and Monterossa was even worse - a sea of beach umbrellas and super-oiled beach denizens.

But Manarolla was the prettiest place we've seen in a long time, especially at sunset/dusk when you are up on the hill toward Corniglia, looking back at the beautiful colors of the buildings and the lights - gorgeous. If you can be there for Corpus Christi, do not miss it - local people welcomed us to their festival and parade through town and up to small altars where prayers were said. What a night, what a place! We'd go back in a minute.

Thank you to Laudina, Orfeo, to the wonderful people of this wonderful town!

My husband & I visited CT for the first time in July 2002. We thought it was charming, not all that crowded, and very few Americans. We stayed in Monterosso at the Hotel Porto Roca, which has a beautiful view of the ocean and you can walk to the beach/town easily from there. We took the train and also did some hiking between villages. All in all we loved it and would go again for sure.

We found Florence to be much more crowded and touristy, although we enjoyed it as well.

Haven't been yet to the Amalfi coast but from what I've read I think CT is still much quainter and less traveled. It is not that easy to get to compared to many of the other more popular destinations and I think that keeps some less adventurous travelers away.

Enjoy!

I (the original poster) just wanted to report on my CT stay last weekend. There certainly are more tour bus crowds (mostly elderly Europeans, walking incredibly slowly)than when I last visited, and if you simply stayed in the towns all day (I'm not sure why anyone would, though) it would be quite crowded and annoying. We stayed in Manarola, in a studio apartment at La Toretta B and B (which was very nice), and morning and evenings were wonderful, quiet, with kids playing soccer in front of the church and old ladies gossiping on benches. Just as we would be heading out of town to hike, swim, kayak, whatever, we'd see the crowds start to march down the hill into town, but by the time we were done our outdoor activities for the day, they were gone, and the town was quiet. Trails were not unreasonably crowded on this June weekend. If you take any path but the main one between the villages (there are many others) you may never see another soul. We hiked up above Manarola and saw no one on a Saturday.

I would discourage anyone from taking a day trip to the area-you're just going to be there will all your fellow day trippers, and you'll all come home complaining how crowded it was. I'd also say that if you're uninterested in outdoor activities, it might not be the best place for you. For those who can stay overnight, and who enjoy hiking/biking/horseback riding/swimming/kayaking/etc, you will have a wonderful time.