Cinque Terre-too crowded?
 

I visited the CT in June of 1998 and while there were certainly many tourists there, I did not find it overwhelmingly crowded. There are a number of posts on this board that disparage the area as a "zoo," and I am wondering-has so much changed in the last 7 years? Is it really unbearable in May and June, for example (I would never go to ANY European beach destination in July or August)?

I have a hard time imagining that it has become like the Amalfi Coast (an area that is not my cup of tea, since it so busy and crowded) or like Rimini, with it's wall to wall beach chairs and amusements. But, some posts here make it sound like that is exactly like what the CT has become. Comments from recent travelers?

Yes, it has changed that much. Last year I was there in October. On a Saturday (week ends are always more crowded) waiting for a train on the platform at Vernazza. There were so many people waiting to get on the train that you could not get on the next train but had to wait for a second train. I found the same at other villages that day. Remember that this was in October. I was first at the CT in 1995. I paid equiv. of $25 for a decent room, now that room is over $100. All the hotel and restaurant prices have skyrocketed. I will never return to CT. I have found that I much prefer the Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, Rapallo, Camogli, Sestri Levante area instead and it is only a short distance north of the CT.

Lots of people seem to like the CT in spite of this but I'll pass.

Also I go to the Amalfi Coast area (Sorrento, Amalfi, Positano, Ravello etc. and have never seen crowds even close to those in CT.

Larry J

Larry-Which of those towns that you mentioned have the best swimming beaches? Thanks.

For the towns north of the CT I base myself at Santa Margherita Ligure. Great town with nice reasonably priced hotels and reataurants and a nice beach area in center of town. I then take day trips by train to Rapallo (also a nice beach area), Camolgi (nice beach and old town area) and Sestri Levante. Sestri Levante has a very large beach area because it has beaches on the penisula that juts out into the Med and a sheltered beach area on the bay on the inland side of the peninsula.

There are two Best Western hotels in Santa Margherita. Both are 4 star. I stay at the Best Western Hotel Laurin. It is located at the marina very near center of town and every room has a terrace and sea view. Also a nice free buffet breakfast.I last stayed there in December 03 at a rate of 110 euros. You can book through the Best Western website. Hassle-free cancellation policy that extends up to day of arrival. From here it is a 3 km (1.8 mile) walk to Portofino or for 1 euro take the bus that stops in front of hotel. Two nice hiking trails that start at Portofino and go out on the peninsula for several km.

Another thing to keep in mind is that from the Santa Margherita area you can easily do a day trip by train to the CT.

Enjoy whichever area you choose.

Larry J

Larry, I'm was looking at a couple of nights in CT - focusing on Vernazza and Riomaggiore in mid October and wasn't anticipating crowds of that magnitude. It certainly is a deterrent - just out of curiousity though also, was it incredibly rainy in October?

christy1: September and October are still busy tourist-wise; however, you won't get the wall of tourists in the typical summer months of June-August. The Cinque Terre towns are so much smaller so when crowds flood the towns, they really are overwhelmed. What Larry said is true, especially of Vernazza where the prices for food, hotels, and restaurants have sky-rocketed to meet the demand.

I was in the CT mid-September (5 months ago) and had to wait for 3 trains before finally able to leave Monterosso (due in part to an impending train strike that afternoon and also very crowded trains!). However, I would visit the CT in September or October vs the hotter, more crowded summer months. That said, it is certainly worth a return visit at least in May before the crowds get too much. Riomaggiore and Monterosso al mare are my favorite towns. Monterosso al mare has the best beaches with sand to actually lay down on. Riomaggiore has a very small beach that mostly locals go to (around the bend from its main mini harbor). Note that the rocks can really hurt your feet when swimming, walking out in the water, etc. I would almost recommend swimming shoes or even flip-flops while wading. I have learned to walk very gingerly along the beach!

AussieMel: I would avoid staying in Vernazza where you will encouter more crowds. I would recommend staying in Riomaggiore. You can easily take the local trains back and forth to the towns so you won't miss anything.

There is rain in October; however, the true winter weather doesn't really begin until late November/early December. The throes of the season are at full force during Christmas time and the month of January....even into February. (However, in Riomaggiore today - 13 Feb 05 - it was another sunny day (49 F) that continued a nice weather pattern for the past 4 days there).

Christy,
We went to CT last May – it happened that May 1st (which is a holiday in Italy) was on a weekend last year. That was the really crowded day, but other than that, it was fine, no real crowds. We stayed in Monterrosso for 5 days and never had a problem with the trains. I think we even got seats every time.
While I can’t comment on how the prices went up lately, we still found them a lot lower than in Venice and Florence.
Again, keep in mind, we were there in May, before the school breaks and the real crowds. But we loved it and would do it again any time. The CT towns are more crowded during the day, due to tourist staying in other neighboring towns, but at night they are magical.
You’ll love it.

I agree with Larry J. We were there in October and I felt like I was in the midst of a Rick Steve's convention! I was soooo disappointed!

After an overpriced espresso and a wait to use one of the filthiest rest rooms I have ever seen (at the train station) we hopped the next train out.

We stayed in Rapallo, which we very much enjoyed. SML also looked entcing and it is on our list for next time.

To KFUSTO

If you guys liked Rapallo you'll be tickled half to death with Santa Margherita. Be sure to take the short day trip to Camogli. It has a lot of old world charm. I met a couple there from San Francisco who had been there for 3 weeks and hated to leave. Pretty hard to impress anyone lucky (and rich) enough to live in SF.

Larry J

Thanks for the comments and I'd love to hear more. xyz99, that was particularly helpful as we will probably be going (late) May. Larry, thanks for the other beach suggestions.

I wonder if people are comparing the CT to the undiscovered place it may have been or that their expectations led them to believe rather than to other Italian coastal towns. The complaints I'm hearing don't make it sound worse than other places. $100 for a room doesn't sound bad to me for such as scenic coastal area, and I can show you a TON of places in Italy to get overpriced espressos and that have filthy train station bathrooms. And, speaking of crowded trains, I've had a terrible time catching buses up and down the Amalfi Coast, and when I do manage to get on one, they are very crowded. I do, however, see how too many people can overwhelm those little towns.

Lamentably, the CT has become more crowded, but it's still not as bad as Portofino, the French Riviera, or Amalfi. However, despite this there are two ways to beat the crowds. First, avoid weekends and holidays. Second, stay in Corniglia. Since it's a little harder to get to than the other 4 towns it sees fewer crowds.

Also, I'd chew tin foil before I'd ever pay more than 100 euros for a room anywhere in the CT. Lots of CT residents will rent you a private room for well under 50 euros. Last May I rented a whole apartment in Monterosso for 75 euro. Either of these options are much more charming and intimate than staying at Best Western (give me a break! -- Travel all the way to Italy to stay in a Best Western. Just go to Disneyland and get it over with).

Christy,

We visited the Cinque Terre 5 years ago in May. We stayed in Santa Margherita Ligure also at the Hotel Laurin. It's not what you would expect of a Best Western in the US, much more European. SML is a lovely town deserving of its own time.

We trained to Cinque Terre with no problem. Weather was mid-80s, trail was quite busy even then. Vernazza was jam packed, but the other towns were fine.

Buon viaggio!

Famous quote:

"No one goes there nowadays, it's too crowded."
- <i>Yogi Berra</i>

christy1: sounds like you are really set on the CT and should just plan to go.

IMHO, CT had no charm and I would not return. This was my 12th visit to Italy and I agree that there are plenty of places in most Italian cities with dirty bathrooms and overpriced espresso. However, there are also lots of places in Italy where a $5 cup of espresso is worth the price, at least for me (sitting at an outdoor table at Tre Scalini in summer comes to mind.)

I had looked forward for many years to visiting the CT. My husband and I both had the same reaction to Vernazza. We stayed less than an hour, hopped the next train to anywhere and spent a lovely afternoon exploring Le Spezia.


Larry, SML, thanks for the thoughts on SML. We will definitely check it out next time we have a few extra days in Italy.

I've said it over and over again. The only REAL reason to go to the CT is to hike the old goat paths between the five villages. If you plan to go and just sit in a town, there are many, many places in Italy better suited to that.

This thread concerns me a little since I have just reserved a room for two nights in Monterosso. We will be there in mid-April and intend to hike. Weather may change those plans, of course, but otherwise should I expect unreasonable crowds even then? I can still cancel and go to some of the other towns several of you seem to think are better options. PK

PJK,

I haven't been there since 2000 (or was it 1999 or 2001?), but I say go, expect crowds and then have a good time regardless.

I thought it was pretty Rick Steves-y back then (not that there's anything wrong with that...!), but we still had a delightful time.

We stayed in Corniglia for 3 days. It was a holiday weekend in May--tons of Italians as well as other tourists, plus a football match with a team from La Spezia.

Plus a vino festa!

It was fun. Please just go, hike, relax, eat and drink lots, and have a great time.

Maybe what we have here are just differing opinions depending on what we like to do...the idea of just sitting in Vernazza for an hour and judging the area on that is very odd to me. It was the hiking (I only took the train once in 4 days), swimming, general scenery, sitting on the rocks by the water, watching sunsets, etc that I found so wonderful. I can see how if you limit your activities to the most crowded town, things might seem very busy and unpleasant.

PJK, I posted this on another message board as well and it is sounding like if you mainly like to do the things I mentioned above, you'll be fine. The advice I am getting is as long as you avoid the high season and weekends and don't expect that it is an unknown destination-realize that it is a well known place-that it is fine.

We made the decision to leave after an hour because we were completely turned off by what we found. We had not planned to hike (husband has bad back) but planned to spend a day exploring. The beach was not inviting for swimming and was packed anyway. We live in FL on the coast so swimming is not what we visit Europe for as we have beautiful beaches ten minutes from our home.

I had orginally booked a room in Monterosso but after experiencing Varnazza, we were very happy that we had chosed Rapallo instead based on comments our Florentine friends and business associates made about the CT.

It is all in what you enjoy. If the hiking is what you are going for, I am sure it is quite lovely. If you do not care to be in a crowd of mostly American tourists all looking for whatever charm Steeves finds in the CT, then you will likely enjoy it quite well.

Your original post askes if it really unbearable. IMRE, it was.

Attention sourpusses - I will be in the CT on September 7 and want to see smiles. I plan to visit all the towns and just explore. All I want to do is see the scenery, ride the ferry, and drink some wine. I'm sure we will have a lovely time even if it is crowded, which is what happens at beaches in the summer.

We are going to hike and enjoy the scenery. Thanks for the feedback. I think I will leave our reservations as they stand. We love hiking in Colorado and along the Oregon coast, so I am excited to hike between the towns. If any of you have any concerns about certain sections, I would appreciate knowing what you think. I run daily, so the fitness aspect does not concern me, but I have no desire to hike where I am likely to slide down the side of a cliff because the trails are too close to the edge or otherwise dangerous. Any thoughts about that? Thanks PJK

Thanks to everyone for their help. I've now read a number of posts, here and elsewhere, that say how crowded Vernazza is in particular, so I'll stay in Corniglia or Manarola (I was going to do that anyway-it's where I stayed before-Vernazza was actually swarming when I visited in '98.). I've found quite a few reasonably priced accomodations online, and no one has indicated that trails and the beaches, esp. Guvano, will be too crowded in May/early June, so I will plan to go.

PJK: When I was there, though I had read in a couple guidebooks that there were steep/scary parts of the trail between the villages, I found it quite tame. Maybe people that aren't especially active find it challenging, but you indicate that you hike, so it should be fine (esp. since they've done quite a bit of work on the trail since it's become a national park).

I loved the CT when I was there in 2002. Stayed in Monterosso, and considered the CT my holiday within my holiday. I played on the beach, hiked the trail (which wasn't scary) and explored the towns. Your experience is what you make of it. Rome was crowded. Florence was crowded. Venice was crowded. And yet I am returning to these places and CT with my new husband in a few months. Just enjoy.

We were in CT last May and the crowds left in late afternoon--stayed in Vernazza for about $80 pr night. It was very pleasant and we ate well. We stayed two nights &amp; hiked the five trails--very scenic. Monterosso offers more hotels plus has some shopping--we bought fantastic pesto--&amp; has a beach. The Ligurian Sea was way too cold for us but many were enjoying it. I would not change my plans to go to another area. I will have to say those trains connecting the 5 towns often do not run each hour. This is something to consider if you choose to dine in a different town from where you are staying. Also to enjoy in Vernazza is the sunset with a glass of wine. Enjoy CT!

To quote Yogi Berra......&quot;Nobody goes there anymore because it is too crowded&quot;!

I could not resist

But, more on the topic..... The time of year would be a issue in any location...but If I had the chance I would go again in a heartbeat!! Beautiful area!!
JOHN

oops! That's what I get for not reading all the posts!....Sorry to jump on your quote &quot;Travelnut&quot;!
John

I just began looking at this board and found this timely discussion on CT. We have a group of 5 and will be there in mid-May for a couple of nights. It sounds like the crowds will not be overwhelming by then. We're in the process of making reservations at Locanda dei duxi in Riomaggiore- anyone have experience with them? Thanks.

To Edward2005: Best Westerns vary according to location. In Europe they are individually owned hotels, moderately priced (not budget) and usually with lots of character and local charm.

To Mimar

You are exactly right about European Best Westerns being indepentantly owned. They link up with BW for marketing purposes and to get access to the computer reservation systems as any experienced European traveler would know. I have stayed in BW that are over 200 years old in Europe. Hardly the cookie cutter design BW you see in the USA at the interstate exits. The Logis de France hotels are a similiar example as is the Utell Hotels.

A good reason to use these hotels is to get the no hassle cancellation policy of BW or Logis de France. This is a valuable benefit when booking at independantly owned hotels, guaranteeing with a credit card and want the possiblity of a flexible trip.Also you can accumulate frequent user points for free nights in a relatively short period of time if you travel as much as I do which is about 150-200 nights per year in hotels.

Larry J

I'll just add my two cents on a trip to the CT in July, 2004.

We (husband &amp; two young teen kids) were staying in Lucca for several days and decided to do a day trip to the Cinque Terre. We drove to Levanto - the nothern most town and parked easily at the train station. We took the train to Riomaggiore - the Southern most town.

It was crowded with tourist groups (most notably a HUGE group of Indians)but we quickly started on the walking path. This part is paved and very flat. We thought the views were breathtaking and even this easy section was not very crowded.

When we hit Manarola we got off the path and walked around the village a bit. We grapped a gelato and poked around. It was not as crowded here. Then back on the path to Corniglia.

This stretch of the path was certainly more of a &quot;path&quot; but not hiking at all. It was really quiet and we only saw a few people - including a local man selling watermelon. Once we reached Corniglia we climbed the steps (over 300) to the village. It was quite hot at this point in the day but it felt good to get some exercise. We loved Corniglia and had a super lunch at DaMananan. Great ambiance and food. The village was charming and not at all crowded. We then climbed back down the stairs and hopped on the train fairly quickly to Vernazza.

This is where we saw loads of people - mostly Italinas searching for a tiny spot in the sun. There is no real beach here so people put out their blankets on rocks and concrete. The shops were kind of tacky, touristy so we left quickly and took a water taxi to Monterosso. It was a pleasant jaunt in the boat - about 10 minutes. Again, the views of the colorful villages were just beautiful!

Once in Monterosso the crowds were with us again. Not so terrible that we couldn't wait to leave but I can see how it might take away from the experience. We visited an unrestored church which was fascinating and I made one of my best Italian purchases. 3 large colorful, sturdy plastic recycling bags with handles that snap together with white Italian lettering -Carta, Plastica, Vetro &amp; Lattine. I just adore them!!

We rushed to catch the train back to Levanto without a problem getting a seat and then picked up our car back in the lot. We did this all in seven hours.

Obviously, this may not be the best way to really experience the CT but we had a really enjoyable day and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it.

By the way, this was on a Sunday.

KarinW
This sounds great. I plan to spend a day in the CT so this information is very helpful.

christy 1, do you know of a location in Manorola, or Corniglia that has air conditioning and a view? Sounds like it's imperative for a summer visit.

Since we haven't been to CT for a few years, I don't want to comment about the extent of the crowds. However, I know it is growing more popular, and I'd always avoid mid-July to August.

I agree with the people who say that the best reasons for visiting the Cinque Terre are its footpaths and rugged views. We also chose wisely in the hotel -- the Hotel Porto Rocca in Monterosso. For our tastes, it is very civilized. Its location on the edge of town, perched on a cliff, allowed easy access to the attractions of town, but you could retreat to a pleasant villa-like existence. Half board required, i.e. breakfast and lunch or dinner; the food is good; and the bartenders it he lounge are very sociable. Breakfast on the terrace is a real delight. There are also &quot;family&quot; like touches, ie.e if you don't finish you rwine one night, they cork it for you, and bring it out for you the next. The hotel has its own section on the small, pebbly beach in town. Some drawbacks: it is up a very steep walkway. They will come to get you for your lugage, etc., but people who have trouble with steep inclines or stairs would do well to go elsewhere.

The trails between Monterosso and Vernazza and Vernazza and Corniglia are more like goat paths, but very enjoyable. But be aware that this is not the stoll-with-the-guard rail kind of hinking in those stretches, and there are spots where those afraid of heights will have a problem. ..But we loved it!

We visited in the very early days of September. There were tourists, but I can't say we were overwhelmed. Again, partly this is due to where we stayed, partly that I think the major wave of European tourists had deaprted, and the &quot;fall&quot; wave had not yet hit.

Santa Marguerita is more of a small city, but with many more restaurants, beach, etc.

Pawleys-I didn't have air condidtioning when I stayed for 4 days in June, and it wasn't a problem. The weather was very pleasant with nice coastal breezes.

Christy 1,I don't know how much hotter August will be than June; but, my daughter and son in law (who I'm helping plan the trip for) really think AC will be imperative. I'll pass on your suggestion.

Yes, I imagine August could be hot, and if your travel partners don't deal with heat well, it's probably worth it to find a/c.

Due to kid's school schedule we had to wait until end of June - early July for our trip to Italy last year. We did Rome, Tuscany, CT and Venice.

Some days were VERY hot. Rome was better than I thought but some days in Tuscany were quite hot. That being said, you just went slow, relaxed, dressed appropriately (wore a hat) and went on. It was well worth it!!!!

I must admit, though, that I thoroughly enjoyed refreshing after long days outside in an airconditioned room. I could not imagine being in a non A/C during the summer. You can get refreshed and head back out again.

Since we were in the CT for only one day (see above post) I can't really say what it was like in the evening. I know when we were in Luca in the evening it was delightful. Again, I would want an AC room.

Good luck.

we stayed 3 days and nights in Manarolo two years ago and thought it one of the best parts of our visit to Italy. Got off the train and had no clue how to find our hotel - a very kind man heard us asking for A La Porta Rossa [a great place to stay!] and motioned for us to follow up an incline along the hill - sure enough, there it was. Our hostess, Laudina, had equipped our room with a great fan to ward off the 2003 heat wave [we were the in late June]. She had reservations for us that evening at El Porticillo, one of the best dinner places during two weeks in Italy [and one we revisited a second night - only in part to taste their wonderful Lemoncillo!]

I agree with folks who thought Vernazzia was too crowded [way too many tee shirt shops!!], and Monterossa was even worse - a sea of beach umbrellas and super-oiled beach denizens.

But Manarolla was the prettiest place we've seen in a long time, especially at sunset/dusk when you are up on the hill toward Corniglia, looking back at the beautiful colors of the buildings and the lights - gorgeous. If you can be there for Corpus Christi, do not miss it - local people welcomed us to their festival and parade through town and up to small altars where prayers were said. What a night, what a place! We'd go back in a minute.

Thank you to Laudina, Orfeo, to the wonderful people of this wonderful town!

My husband &amp; I visited CT for the first time in July 2002. We thought it was charming, not all that crowded, and very few Americans. We stayed in Monterosso at the Hotel Porto Roca, which has a beautiful view of the ocean and you can walk to the beach/town easily from there. We took the train and also did some hiking between villages. All in all we loved it and would go again for sure.

We found Florence to be much more crowded and touristy, although we enjoyed it as well.

Haven't been yet to the Amalfi coast but from what I've read I think CT is still much quainter and less traveled. It is not that easy to get to compared to many of the other more popular destinations and I think that keeps some less adventurous travelers away.

Enjoy!

I (the original poster) just wanted to report on my CT stay last weekend. There certainly are more tour bus crowds (mostly elderly Europeans, walking incredibly slowly)than when I last visited, and if you simply stayed in the towns all day (I'm not sure why anyone would, though) it would be quite crowded and annoying. We stayed in Manarola, in a studio apartment at La Toretta B and B (which was very nice), and morning and evenings were wonderful, quiet, with kids playing soccer in front of the church and old ladies gossiping on benches. Just as we would be heading out of town to hike, swim, kayak, whatever, we'd see the crowds start to march down the hill into town, but by the time we were done our outdoor activities for the day, they were gone, and the town was quiet. Trails were not unreasonably crowded on this June weekend. If you take any path but the main one between the villages (there are many others) you may never see another soul. We hiked up above Manarola and saw no one on a Saturday.

I would discourage anyone from taking a day trip to the area-you're just going to be there will all your fellow day trippers, and you'll all come home complaining how crowded it was. I'd also say that if you're uninterested in outdoor activities, it might not be the best place for you. For those who can stay overnight, and who enjoy hiking/biking/horseback riding/swimming/kayaking/etc, you will have a wonderful time.