CAPRI & THE AMALFI COAST ADVICE
 

Greetings Fodorites!
We have used this site in planning our past trips and have had lots of success from the many comments and suggestions posted. Many thanks. My companion and I are in our mid 50’s and once again are going to Italy. We would prefer not to rent a car and rely on the public transportation. When touring we enjoy the museums, churches, ancient sites and ruins and shopping and eating where the locals go.
We will be traveling from September 29 through October 12.

Starting in Naples on the 29th – for 3 to 4 nights
Onward to Positano-for 3 to 4 nights
Capri possibly- 1 to 2 nights
Lastly onto Rome – for 4 nights to 5 nights

We have been to both Naples and Rome before, so our focus is more on the Amalfi coast area where we are looking for advice. Our hotels are booked with some flexibility on our dates.

While in Positano we are considering seeing Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi, Paestum, Ravello, Salerno and Herculaneum. Our approach is to enjoy the sites and allow as much time as possible while making the most out of our time.

1st question: Should we spend a night or two in Capri? Our concern here is what to do with our luggage for the duration, because we like to take an overnight bag instead. Would the hotel we are staying at store it for one night or are there storage facilities in Positano? Does it make sense to go to Capri from Positano or Naples? If Naples; is there a luggage storage facility?

2nd question: Places to visit logistically from one town to another. We would like to make the most of our time and are looking for suggestions as to grouping places to see while out on a day’s excursion.

3rd question: What is the transportation connections like from Positano this time of the year? What should we expect from the bus lines and boat schedules?

4th question: Any other suggestions and comments are most welcome?

Grazie!

Tagging, we are taking a similar trip next year. Thanks.

There is luggage storage at the train station in Naples. Ferries will cut back schedules early-mid September so there won't be much service from Positano. Capri is readily reached from Naples and Sorrento. Naples and Sorrento have more ferry/hydrofoil service than the other ports in the area. Amalfi has more than Positano. If the sea is a bit rough, they don't put into Positano.

If you are flying into Naples I would transfer to Capri or Positano upon arrival and put the Naples stay at the end for an easier transfer to Rome. If Capri first, you can take the Alibus (3€) from the airport to the port in Naples to catch the ferry. If Positano first, you can take the Curreri shuttle bus (10€) from the airport to Sorrento and catch the Sita bus there on to Positano.

Paestum is not so easy by public transport from Positano (involves a couple of bus transfers in Amalfi and Salerno). I would plan that day trip while staying in Naples by train.

I would just plan to take the luggage with you while staying in Capri. I really don't see the point of storing it and backtracking to retrieve it.

Thank you kybourbon!Wow, we need to reconsider some things. I think we will do the Paestum day trip from Naples.

Sorrento is a better base for public transit (train, sea, bus) than Positano, as kybourbon has stated. Look into the Campagne ArteCard for discount access to museums, Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc. The three day card also included transit when we were in the area May 2012, and still may.

Luggage is a hindrance when you are transferring so many times, so I would strongly suggest one rolling carry-on per person total baggage.

Thanks AJPeabody; Yes, the luggage is a big concern for us. We had chosen to stay in Positano over Sorrento, because of some of the threads we read. If stay in Positano, does that mean the transportation connections are usaully through Sorrento? What about the boats? I am now wondering if Sorrento is a better place to stay if we want to see more. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to book a nice B&B there?

I did this trip in June, so the ferry and bus schedules may be a bit different when you are there. However, you can find all the ferry and bus schedules online typically.

We flew into Rome...had a driver take us directly to hotel in Positano. We did 3 nights Positano, 2 night Capri, 3 nights in Rome. We did a day trip from Positano to Ravello...a MUST in my opinion! And if I were you, I would shorten your stay in Naples and add a night or two in Ravello if you can. It was stunning and the view from up that high is incredible. What a great town! We took a ferry from Positano to Amalfi, and then took a bus up to Ravello. You may be able to do the same in October. Otherwise, I am sure you could take a bus from Positano to Amalfi, and then change buses to Ravello?

I would definitely spend a night on Capri. The island is magical at night and the hoards of tourists leave and you have the island to yourself. We took a ferry from Positano to Capri, and then from Capri to Naples before boarding a train to Rome.

Positano Hotel: Covo dei Saraceni
Capri Hotel: Hotel Flora
*I really wanted to stay at Hotel Minerva in Capri, but it was booked while we were there.

Would definitely recommend both!

Thank you Britts123. Again, our concern is Positano the right choice to stay in while we want to go to all these other places? Also, are there things to do in Positano? I guess we do not want to spend all our time on buses; ferries, etc....

If you base in Sorrento or Naples, rather than Positano, you will decrease your travel connections. Naples and Sorrento are 80 minutes apart by the Circumvesuviana commuter rail. Pompeii and Herculaneum are between the two, along the line.

>>>If stay in Positano, does that mean the transportation connections are usaully through Sorrento? What about the boats?<<<

Positano's port is small and only ferries put in there (no hydrofoils). Sorrento and Naples have much more ferry/hydrofoil options. Ferries do not run late (not past 7 or so in the height of the summer season) or often (especially at the time of year you are going).

http://www.coopsantandrea.com/en/

http://www.alicost.it/content/?id=6

Positano is on the Sita bus line. You can take a bus to Sorrento, but to head south to Salerno requires changing in Amalfi as does a trip to Ravello. Ravello is a bit remote so not a good option for transit connections.

Sorrento is on the Circumvesuviana train line which runs between Naples/Sorrento. Pompeii is also on this line as is Herculaneum (both are stops between Naples/Sorrento). To visit Pompeii from Positano you would have to take the Sita bus to Sorrento (1 hour) and switch to the train (about 30 minutes). Transport takes time on the coast.

Thank you both Kybourbon and Ajpebody for your reply. We have been in Naples and know pretty much what works well from there. Are concern is mainly Positano and the Amalfi coast, which will be our first time. Thanks again.

> we are considering seeing Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi, Paestum, Ravello, Salerno and Herculaneum.

I'm so glad to see someone say that the are considering seeing Salerno, which is IMO all-too-often overlooked. The waterfront is lovely, the cathedral has some outstanding features, and the ivory carvings at the nearby diocesan museum are remarkable. Note that the cathedral and museum may be closed during a long lunch hour.

In Paestum, consider making time for the museum -- it has some quite unusual pieces. And be sure to stop for some local buffalo mozzarella. :-)

Ravello is breathtaking. Try to make time for both the Villa Rufulo and the Villa Cimbrone and definitely stop in its cathedral for its lovely ambos (if nothing else).

> Should we spend a night or two in Capri?

Yes! Capri is much more enjoyable after day-trippers leave. You can see the highlights in one day if you plan well; whether that means one night or two depends on when, exactly, you arrive and your preferred pace of travel. Don't miss the Villa San Michele.

> What is the transportation connections like from Positano this time of the year? What should we expect from the bus lines and boat schedules?

You might want to check the Rough Guide, which usually provides very good info on transportation options.

We stayed in Positano last September/October for a week and made that our base to see all of the sights you mention. The boats and bus service were great. We took a boat to Amalfi then the bus to Ravello. Then we took a bus from Amalfi to Positano. We loved Ravello and will stay a night there next time. The Sita buses were busy and crowded but they ran on schedule and got us back to Positano. We also took the boat to Capri for the day and had a great time. I would only do one night in Capri andI would do the Paestum trip from Naples. We really had no problem getting our boat/bus service from Positano. We loved Positano and had a great time. We got a driver to take us from Naples to Positano and then another back to Pompeii and the train station. We also had a guide for Pompeii which was great. Have a great time.

Thank you very much Paquintravel for sharing your traveling experience while staying in Poistano. It's very helpful to know that those connections to the places we want to see are easily available from where we are basing ourselves.

Steve -

There's not much to comment on. Your original itinerary looks fine and will work perfectly which ever amount of nights you choose in each place (3 or 4, 1 or 2, 4 or 5). Your narrow "window lengths" are perfect whatever you decide.

Agree you should just take luggage for your 1 or 2 nights (not a day trip) in Capri. Capri might work best as a last stop after your Positano stay. After checking out of Capri hotel, it's then an easy ferry ride from Capri to Naples before continuing onward to Rome (also less backtracking).

Herculaneum would be easiest as a day trip from Naples - a very simple train ride.

None of the connections along the Amalfi coast are difficult via buses or ferries.

Thank you for your comments Bardo. The concern is what to do with the luggage if we go to Capri, since we will have it with us in Positano. Do we back track to Naples for storage before going to Capri?

bookmarking

Steve - Take it with you. Our trip was Amalfi to Capri to Naples to Rome but we only had one 21" carry-on case each. Even if you have more, it's still the best way. Your Capri hotel will have a porter meet you at the ferry dock and take your luggage to the hotel. They can also do the reverse - no biggie. Call them if you want to be sure.

Bardo, Again thank you for another great tip. Are luggage will be on the large side, weighing about 50LBS.

> 1st question: Should we spend a night or two in Capri? Our concern here is what to do with our luggage for the duration, because we like to take an overnight bag instead.

Sorry I neglected this question in my earlier post. I can understand that going to Capri with an overnight bag would simplify some things, but not necessarily all! You might want to check with your hotel on Capri, as many hotels there will (or can) arrange to pick your luggage up upon your arrival and deliver it back to the harbor in time for your departure. If you really don't want to take it with you -- and yes, taking luggage of that weight would complicate getting onto and off of the ferries -- then check with your hotel(s) on the mainland to see if they will hold your luggage for you. IME, hotels are more like to accept luggage for storage ahead of time rather than after the fact, but I'm sure it varies. Once you know what your hotels can/will do, adjust your itinerary as necessary.

Thank you Kja! It seems as though we have some options with the luggage. The Le Ghiande B & B in Poistano where we will be staying has offered to store the luggage. However, My preference now is to take it with us, becasue we would be going onto Rome from Capri

Getting back to going to places from Positano. It seems to make sense to go to both Amalfi and Ravello as a daytrip. What about going to Sorrento or Salerno; Are these places worth the time?

Re: Salerno, please see my earlier post on this thread.

Kja, thank you very much for the posting on Salerno; Would that be an all day excursion? It sounds like a must on our list of places to see.

I would highly recommend Salerno as a daytrip from Positano. kja pointed out some good sights in Salerno, and you can also take the (short) train ride to Vietri Sul Mare from Salerno to see the ceramics shops (and museum).

But leave yourself time in Positano for relaxing and exploring.

Thank you Ekc and all of you who added your comments to this thread. I think I have a much better handle on how to approach the area we are staying while exploring some of the Amalfi coast. Many thanks!

Re: Luggage. Thirty years ago we traveled with a big 70 lb bag and two "smaller" 30-40 pounders. We could take a trip for 3 weeks and live for the first week at home out of clean stuff left over from the trip. Once my wife and I carried home 4 cases of wine packed in our luggage.

On our latest trip we had two 18-20 lb rollers, no problems. Lighter and smaller is better, especially if boarding a train or ferry, using stairs, or traveling with the latest air travel restrictions and fees.

Lug-age: The more you age, the less you lug.

Thank you for sharing that AJPeadbody. :) :)

> Salerno; Would that be an all day excursion?

You can see the waterfront, cathedral, and ivories in the morning and then take the train to Paestum and spend the afternoon there. It would be a long day trip, but doable.

Thanks Kja. How much time should we allow for Salerno? And no it would not be an all day excursion. By some chance do you know the time it takes the train going from Salerno to Paestum? Our concern is that we do want to be rushing to get to one place to another. However, this is another option to consider rather than going to Paestum from Naples. I guess it comes down to what makes better use of our time.

Do I need to be concerned as to the location where I am staying while in Positano? I have a reservation at the B&B Le Ghiande in Montepertuso. Are there places close to bus lines, etc.?

To see Salerno AND Paestum would be an all day trip - partially due to the train schedule. If you search this forum or the Italy forum on Tripadvisor, you will find recent posts discussing how to get to Paestum via public transport from the AC.

Yes, you need to be concerned about location in Positano. The lower in the town the better - Montepertuso is actually a small town way above Positano.

Having never seen Greek temples before, we spent almost as much time at Paestum as we did at Pompeii, especially when you factor in the museum (but we came from the south). I do agree you can have a nice visit to Salerno and Paestum in one (long) day though. You have to pass through Salerno anyway, twice, so you may as well see some of it. It makes a good lunch stop.

If you like the b&b you have selected, then I would write them and ask if there is a bus stop close by. The website says there is. I like staying places like that (all reviews in Italian, nice!), but if you are doing many day trips, there will be some legwork involved--literally.

If you don't mind relying on a bus to get to and from your B&B, or walking (literally) hundreds of steps to get anywhere, then staying high above town is fine - it certainly is quieter up there. I just prefer to be closer to the shops, restaurants, beach, ferry, etc. I think if you use www.venere.com to search for hotels/B&B's, it will show the locations on a map.

I loved Paestum and would pick it over Salerno if you are having to decide between the two.

I believe that Salerno is on the same train line that you would take to get from Naples to Paestum. Paestum is just over 1/2 from Salerno. Wherever you start, be sure to buy a ticket that includes your return from Paestum before you get there, as the station is Paestum doesn't have a ticket booth (unless things have changed). As I've already said, if you plan to do both Salerno and Paestum in the same day be sure you know that the cathedral and museum in Salerno are likely to be closed during a very long lunch time. You can visit both in the same day with a sufficiently early start. I would think you would want to be sure you have at least 1.5 or 2 hours in Salerno before the lunch-time closure, but I don't know your preferred travel pace. Leave several hours for Paestum, perhaps 2 hours for the site and another hour for the museum. Make sure you know the hours so you can plan accordingly.

And I agree that if you have to choose between Salerno and Paestum, Paestum would be the likely winner unless you have a particular interest in Salerno's treasures.

Yikes, thank you kja, ekc and yorkshire. I do need to change my b&b to the lower area of positano. My traveling partner has health issues; being chronic fatique and FB. Closer to the mainstream trasportation would be more helpful. I feel a bit under the gun, thinking I had the accomdoations all set to go. :0 Thank you all very much!

Steve31,

Since it's your first visit to the coast, I would not recommend staying in Montepertuso. It's a hike- excuse the pun- from everything you're going to want to see and do, and transportation is not that great between there and Positano. The town itself is about a 15 minute up the mountain ride WITHOUT traffic from Positano.

I would look for something right in town so that you have easy access to restaurants, shops, beach, and town dock.

While in Positano, definitely take the seaside path that winds around the bend behind the hotel COVO DEI SARCENI towards FORNILLO BEACH. It's a gorgeous walk, and one of our fave restaurants ( LO GUARACINO) is on that path, about half a mile up on the right hand side.

If you post a budget I am sure that many people- including me- can make some recommendations for more central hotels/B&BS. Just got back from my sixth or maybe seventh (?) trip to Positano.

I'm not sure whether you are using a guidebook, but if you are, I don't think it is serving you well. I strongly encourage you to get at least one good one soon.

I would just take your bags with you to Capri. It would be an enormous pain to have to backtrack to the location of your bags unless you were planning to stay there again before you went on to your next stop.

Capri is worth the overnights.

ps. Montepertuso is beautiful but you will have to take the toodle bus down to Positano every morning and back again every night. It is better to be down on the beach where you can nip in and out of your hotel easily - after beaching, for a freshen up, after shopping, before dinner to change, etc etc.