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-   -   Brittany General Advice? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/brittany-general-advice-773227/)

bilboburgler Mar 23rd, 2009 09:44 AM

Kavey, St Nicolas d B is certainly the best of Bourgueil by I always find B and Chinon too dry and dusty for my taste.

I think saumur and sc are too simple but have some fruit which is why i would prefer those.

Each to his own

Padraig Mar 24th, 2009 05:01 AM

I don't wholly agree with bilboburgler on the Loire reds.

First, St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil is not a Bourgeuil wine; they are different "aires". I like both, but they are different. St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil has a special advantage: it is less highly regarded, and therefore cheaper. To my taste, it tends to be far better than its reputation. I like its pepperiness.

There seem to be two different terroirs in St, Nicolas de Bourgeuil. One yields a fairly robust character, and the other a rather silkier wine. If your husband likes the silky version, Kavey, invite him to seek out and taste Domaine des Vallettes.

Herself is the Saumur Champigny specialist in this house, and would dispute any suggestion that a decent Champigny is simple. Sinuous complexity. Domaine Filliatreau is a good visit (both the place, and for the wine). Harder to find, but also worth considering, is Clos des Cordeliers.

Kavey Mar 24th, 2009 09:00 AM

Padraig, I don't know enough about the intricacies of the areas, but I recall the areas we've visited and from which my husband has enjoyed wines. I don't drink it myself, which makes it harder for me to describe the style of wine he likes. I know he's bought and enjoyed wines from St Nicholas de Bourgeuil. And oh, there's also one he likes very much which is from a vineyard in Restigné? I don't know where that sits in terms of style? Can you advise?

Padraig Mar 24th, 2009 02:07 PM

Sorry, Kavey: I'm not acquainted with Restigné wines, even though I have rambled through the area and seen the vines. One of the problems is that when we are on holidays I do most of the driving, and I am careful about tasting or drinking wine when we are out and about.

Just to make a tidy circle for your trip: I first made acquaintance with Clos des Cordeliers when visiting friends in Brittany and I came upon Domaine des Vallettes when travelling solo, also in Brittany. I had dinner in a restaurant in Fougères (a place you might also worth visiting from Kernelo) and looked at the limited range of half-bottles on offer. They had a St. Nicolas at a higher price than I would have expected, and I asked about it; the serveuse told me that it was said to be exceptionally good; I tried it, and concurred.

Let your husband judge if he agrees with me, while you get smashed on the Chouchen.

On another question you raised: galettes are indeed a Breton specialty. They are similar to crepes, except that they are made with sarrasin (buckwheat) and are filled with savouries rather than sweet things. Traditionally accompanied with a "bol" of cider.

I'm feeling envious. I want to go to Brittany[I'll probably make it in September].

jpie Mar 24th, 2009 03:06 PM

One more foodie suggestion. Dinard has one of the nicest markets around there in my opinion (we have friends with a house there so go regularly). It is big and of course crowded in the summer. One of the best things there in the "prepared" food area is a guy who sells roasted chickens-they are on an outdoor rotisseries and rotate around into onions tomatoes, garlic, etc. Sublime! And the walk around the sea there is terrific. Be sure to also try the local caramel ice cream made with the local sea salt butter. Called caramel beurre sale. It is sold by all the vendors near the beach.

Also, there is a free guide you can get from some restaurants in the region that is called the route of the young chefs that lists a number of good restaurants that who have young and up-coming chefs trying in many cases for a 2nd star. I will google around for more info on it-unfortunately my own copy is packed away out of town. But if I find more info I will post it.

Kavey Mar 25th, 2009 08:30 AM

Padraig, well Pete is very lucky in that I don't like wine at all (or beer for that matter) so, with the exception of a day in Sauternes, I do all the driving and he can taste/ purchase away to his heart's content!

Thanks for the reco for Fougeres.

Jpie, I love food markets so will definitely be visiting at least one, if not more. Thanks for the reco for Dinard and for the ice-cream too!

Will look out for that guide as well!

Kavey Jun 3rd, 2009 05:32 AM

Topping for any further recommendations, particularly food/ drink ones, as we'll be travelling later this month.

Coquelicot Jun 3rd, 2009 07:49 AM

In the medieval section of Fougeres, near the foot of the chateau and St Sulpice, is an inexpensive creperie/restaurant where you can get galettes both savory and sweet. We ate there twice. I remember the sardine-filled one and the dessert one with caramel au beurre sale. I cannot pass up anything with caramel au beurre sale. Ti Vabro, closed Sun eve and Mon, and I see by Michelin that they have 15 ciders.

Kavey Jun 3rd, 2009 09:10 AM

Oooh sardine galette sounds lovely.

Salted caramel is one of my faves so will look out for that including an ice-cream version I was told about too!

flygirl Jun 4th, 2009 12:54 AM

Another good place to eat, outside of Fougeres about 5-10 mins, is Au Cellier in Landean. Pudlo likes it. Very good and good value too - 17 E per person for 3 courses, plus wine.

I just spent the morning (as in, an hour ago!) walking around Fougeres castle. We are leaving for Caen in 10 mins.

Coquelicot Jun 4th, 2009 03:36 AM

Flygirl, did you eat at Au Cellier? We wanted to but got our days wrong.

Pvoyageuse Jun 4th, 2009 04:00 AM

In and around Nantes, try fish (usually "brochet") with beurre blanc sauce and drink Gros Plant or Muscadet (white wine).
In Brittany "cotriade" (fish soup).

Kavey Jun 4th, 2009 12:24 PM

Who or what is Pudlo?

THANKS all!

Coquelicot Jun 4th, 2009 05:11 PM

Pudlo is Gilles Pudlowski, whose restaurant/hotel guides are similar to Michelin. The guides are well thought of in France. I think 2008 was the first time Pudlo France was published in English (Pudlo Paris appeared in English the year before). We took both Michelin red and Pudlo last year and found Michelin had a lot more depth, though there's a lot of overlap.

DanT99 Jun 5th, 2009 08:02 AM

If I were going to this area again, I would find more time for Normandy...but I love history. The D Day celebrations will be in full flow now...
http://www.qualityvillas.com

scoob Jun 5th, 2009 08:09 AM

IF it is not too far for you to get to I would definately visit Le Mont-Saint-Michel, it is extremely impressive. I also second Dinan and St. Malo visits. Dinan had a cool restaurant where you could order all these different meats and you would cook them at your table on hot stones.

Kavey Jun 5th, 2009 12:04 PM

:)

cigalechanta Jun 5th, 2009 01:08 PM

I left some suggestions for you on TTG. The Bridge from La Rochele that takes you to the Ile de Re is Wonderful. On the Ile, dining by the harbor is a treat. Try the local Blanche beer that comes in a flip top bottle. I took mine home.
In La Rochele dine at the beautiful La Cigale.
Pont Aven Is noted for its Trou Mad, buttery cookies that come in attractive, various tins at the shop there.
We liked Paimpol, The pointe de Raz, Cap Frehel,Concarneau,
and the Briere regional National Park, and Guerande to see how the famous salt is gathered
We visited Rotheneuf haven to see the Sculptured rocks,
the work of a local priesnt in 19c. He carved all kinds of monsters and figures. This was several years ago and glad we went because the ocean will one day claim that as a few have lost some of their forms.we also visited Carnac to view
the megaliths

StuDudley Jun 5th, 2009 02:06 PM

>>In La Rochele dine at the beautiful La Cigale.<<

There is an amazing (decor) restaurant called La Cigale in Nantes. Is there one in La Rochelle too - I could not find it in my Michelin Red Guide.

Stu Dudley

Pvoyageuse Jun 5th, 2009 09:48 PM

"There is an amazing (decor) restaurant called La Cigale in Nantes. Is there one in La Rochelle too - I could not find it in my Michelin Red Guide".

It is in Vaux-sur-Mer.


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