Brittany General Advice?
 

We'll be visiting Brittany in mid-June, staying at a friend's parents' house in Kernelo. That's about 75 km NW of Nantes, near the mouth of "La Vilaine" river.

We'll have cars and are happy to venture a fair distance from our base so would appreciate any tips for attractions in the immediate and wider area. Am particularly interested in recommendations for particularly special food/ drink experiences including restaurants, cafes, shops, markets etc.

We will definitely be heading into the Loire to visit some of our favourite vineyards in the Touraine, so some wine tasting (and purchasing) is already on the itinerary!

(We're more familiar with the attractions of the Loire, East to West, than with Brittany).

Any other recommendations gratefully received!

If you click on my name, you'll find my trip report whose last part is on Brittany.

Sounds like you've visited the Loire before. Why return? We've found Brittany to be far more interesting than the Loire. Just stay in Brittany and explore the north coast around Dinan (more scenic than the south coast, IMO).

BTW, we don't "seek out" coastline. I've lived on, or very near the California coast for over 60 years. I think the Brittany countryside is very scenic.

Don't miss Vannes - one of my favorite villages in France. Wonderful Saturday morning mrket.

Stu Dudley

We had a wonderful time touring Brittany 2 years ago. For details, see our phototravelogue at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&x=0&y=-24d4pe

Dinan, a charming walled town, is NOT to be missed. Four friends and I rented nearby for 2 weeks in 2007 and just wandered around, getting in on local "color" such as a small town's "music festival," a tour of a horse stud farm ("Haras") in Lamballe and touring the Abbaye de Boquen (nuns take vows of silence, make charming ceramics). Try to get the tourist brochures on Brittany from an embassy/consulate or the tourist bureaus. There are also about 20 designated "little towns of character," which have less than 5,000 people and some historically important site. A great side trip would be to go to Cancale and buy their absolutely incredible fresh oysters, to prepare at home! Brittany's Celtic past gives another view as to what is "French."

I also would like to suggest Dinan, Cancale, and hopefully you would have time for St. Malo (another walled town) and Dinard. All so charming!

Just like what voyageur7 said, if you like oysters, then go to Cancale for some of the best and freshest oysters. You can see Mont St-Michel while eating oysters. How cool is that?

Have a great time!

Echoing for Dinan and Cancale, also suggest Dol de Bretagne and Combourg.

On the south coast of Brittany there are the standing stones at Carnac, and a drive down the Quiberon peninsula offers a stunning contrast of sheltered sandy beaches on the east side, the charming little town of Quiberon itself (reminds me a bit of Salcombe for some reason!) at the tip, and then on the drive back up the west coast the wild Atlantic rocky coast.

Quiberon also has the best crab and lobster I've ever eaten, and a fabulous chocolate shop.

We loved Vannes and Dinan! Click on my name and you will find out 10 day trip report of Brittany.

Stu, back to Loire as we want to pick up some red wine of that region, a personal preference. We like to buy direct from vineyard hence we'll take one day trip into the Loire, at least.
Most likely will spend rest of time in Brittany.

Many thanks for recos of towns/ attractions.

Any suggestions for restaurants/ more foodie experiences? (Not keen on Oysters, neither is OH, but will note the reco for others in our group)

THANKS

If you decide to go to Dinan, I recommend Le Cottage restaurant.

Not all the good places to visit are far away.

You should be near to Guerande, an attractive walled town, and the adjacent sea salt beds.

La Roche Bernard is worth an hour or two.

La Gacilly, somewhere to the north of the Vilaine mouth, is a very attractive place, a village where there is a lot of craft production. Possibility of hiring a boat for a very scenic trip along the river Aff.

If you like boats and water, Redon is the crossroads of inland navigation in Brittany.

Nantes does not appeal greatly to me, but the chateau is worth a look. It's not a pretty house type of chateau, but a massive fortification -- same sort of thing as Angers, which I suppose you know.

I very much like the Loire country, but the stretch between Nantes and Angers is not especially interesting. [Personally, I'd get my wine in Anjou or the western end of Touraine.]

Kavey, will you be in Paris beforehand? There is a really good TO there (well, as of my last trip) that is pretty extensive, covering all areas of Brittany. If you are, I will dig up the address for you (assuming it is still at the same location).

I plan to buy all the Pudlos - Paris, Brittany/Normandy, and of course Provence for my upcoming trips this summer. I'm certain to do that before too long and I can give you my opinions of the book when I do (or you could check it out at Stanfords...)

Great recommendations, thanks folks...

FG no, won't be in Paris, we'll be driving over via Calais so we'll have our own car, which we prefer and allows us to bring home lots more shopping!

Brittany is too damp for wine, but the cider is fantastic & calvados is IMO the only spirit in the same league as whisky. Seek out seafood.

Calvados is produced in Normandy, in the Departament bearing the same name. The Breton version is Lambig. Highly variable in quality.

You might also try Chouchen, Breton mead. Too sweet for me.

Oooh if it's sweet, sweet, sweet chances are I'll love it!

You can have my share (Herself doesn't have a sweet tooth, either).

Look for it in markets. It's generally an "artisinal" product. I don't know if you speak French: it's pronounced SHOO-shen.

We were in a gite by Rochfort-en-Terre last June. Although
we are used to driving long distances we couldn't get over
how BIG Brittany is! Definitely need at least a month to
see the main attractions.

The south coast towns/villages are truly lovely esp.
Vannes.

If you like red from the Loire I would drop down to Saumur and Saumur Champigny

IMO red is not really the right colour for Loire, so while there try some serious chenin. Vouvray is good place to start but also in Saumur

Then Fizz Quadrille is the finest white I've ever tasted might also try Chat Langlois for their red and white fizz

Brittany for me is really about mussels and crepes, I like the way the mussels are sold by the village name

Padraig, I speak fluent French so will definitely ask after that product.

Bilbo, we're pretty familiar with the reds of the Loire, including Saumur, and my husband particularly likes some reds from Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil which is where we'll head to buy some more to store. He also likes Bordeaux region reds, Burgundy reds and others.

I adore crepes and had forgotten about galettes, which I think are also a Breton speciality?

I have driven through Britanny with a couple of stops but never stayed in the region, so all the tips above for towns and attractions to visit are very helpful.

Thanks again!

Kavey, St Nicolas d B is certainly the best of Bourgueil by I always find B and Chinon too dry and dusty for my taste.

I think saumur and sc are too simple but have some fruit which is why i would prefer those.

Each to his own

I don't wholly agree with bilboburgler on the Loire reds.

First, St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil is not a Bourgeuil wine; they are different "aires". I like both, but they are different. St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil has a special advantage: it is less highly regarded, and therefore cheaper. To my taste, it tends to be far better than its reputation. I like its pepperiness.

There seem to be two different terroirs in St, Nicolas de Bourgeuil. One yields a fairly robust character, and the other a rather silkier wine. If your husband likes the silky version, Kavey, invite him to seek out and taste Domaine des Vallettes.

Herself is the Saumur Champigny specialist in this house, and would dispute any suggestion that a decent Champigny is simple. Sinuous complexity. Domaine Filliatreau is a good visit (both the place, and for the wine). Harder to find, but also worth considering, is Clos des Cordeliers.

Padraig, I don't know enough about the intricacies of the areas, but I recall the areas we've visited and from which my husband has enjoyed wines. I don't drink it myself, which makes it harder for me to describe the style of wine he likes. I know he's bought and enjoyed wines from St Nicholas de Bourgeuil. And oh, there's also one he likes very much which is from a vineyard in Restigné? I don't know where that sits in terms of style? Can you advise?

Sorry, Kavey: I'm not acquainted with Restigné wines, even though I have rambled through the area and seen the vines. One of the problems is that when we are on holidays I do most of the driving, and I am careful about tasting or drinking wine when we are out and about.

Just to make a tidy circle for your trip: I first made acquaintance with Clos des Cordeliers when visiting friends in Brittany and I came upon Domaine des Vallettes when travelling solo, also in Brittany. I had dinner in a restaurant in Fougères (a place you might also worth visiting from Kernelo) and looked at the limited range of half-bottles on offer. They had a St. Nicolas at a higher price than I would have expected, and I asked about it; the serveuse told me that it was said to be exceptionally good; I tried it, and concurred.

Let your husband judge if he agrees with me, while you get smashed on the Chouchen.

On another question you raised: galettes are indeed a Breton specialty. They are similar to crepes, except that they are made with sarrasin (buckwheat) and are filled with savouries rather than sweet things. Traditionally accompanied with a "bol" of cider.

I'm feeling envious. I want to go to Brittany[I'll probably make it in September].

One more foodie suggestion. Dinard has one of the nicest markets around there in my opinion (we have friends with a house there so go regularly). It is big and of course crowded in the summer. One of the best things there in the "prepared" food area is a guy who sells roasted chickens-they are on an outdoor rotisseries and rotate around into onions tomatoes, garlic, etc. Sublime! And the walk around the sea there is terrific. Be sure to also try the local caramel ice cream made with the local sea salt butter. Called caramel beurre sale. It is sold by all the vendors near the beach.

Also, there is a free guide you can get from some restaurants in the region that is called the route of the young chefs that lists a number of good restaurants that who have young and up-coming chefs trying in many cases for a 2nd star. I will google around for more info on it-unfortunately my own copy is packed away out of town. But if I find more info I will post it.

Padraig, well Pete is very lucky in that I don't like wine at all (or beer for that matter) so, with the exception of a day in Sauternes, I do all the driving and he can taste/ purchase away to his heart's content!

Thanks for the reco for Fougeres.

Jpie, I love food markets so will definitely be visiting at least one, if not more. Thanks for the reco for Dinard and for the ice-cream too!

Will look out for that guide as well!

Topping for any further recommendations, particularly food/ drink ones, as we'll be travelling later this month.

In the medieval section of Fougeres, near the foot of the chateau and St Sulpice, is an inexpensive creperie/restaurant where you can get galettes both savory and sweet. We ate there twice. I remember the sardine-filled one and the dessert one with caramel au beurre sale. I cannot pass up anything with caramel au beurre sale. Ti Vabro, closed Sun eve and Mon, and I see by Michelin that they have 15 ciders.

Oooh sardine galette sounds lovely.

Salted caramel is one of my faves so will look out for that including an ice-cream version I was told about too!

Another good place to eat, outside of Fougeres about 5-10 mins, is Au Cellier in Landean. Pudlo likes it. Very good and good value too - 17 E per person for 3 courses, plus wine.

I just spent the morning (as in, an hour ago!) walking around Fougeres castle. We are leaving for Caen in 10 mins.

Flygirl, did you eat at Au Cellier? We wanted to but got our days wrong.

In and around Nantes, try fish (usually "brochet") with beurre blanc sauce and drink Gros Plant or Muscadet (white wine).
In Brittany "cotriade" (fish soup).

Who or what is Pudlo?

THANKS all!

Pudlo is Gilles Pudlowski, whose restaurant/hotel guides are similar to Michelin. The guides are well thought of in France. I think 2008 was the first time Pudlo France was published in English (Pudlo Paris appeared in English the year before). We took both Michelin red and Pudlo last year and found Michelin had a lot more depth, though there's a lot of overlap.

If I were going to this area again, I would find more time for Normandy...but I love history. The D Day celebrations will be in full flow now...
http://www.qualityvillas.com

IF it is not too far for you to get to I would definately visit Le Mont-Saint-Michel, it is extremely impressive. I also second Dinan and St. Malo visits. Dinan had a cool restaurant where you could order all these different meats and you would cook them at your table on hot stones.

:)

I left some suggestions for you on TTG. The Bridge from La Rochele that takes you to the Ile de Re is Wonderful. On the Ile, dining by the harbor is a treat. Try the local Blanche beer that comes in a flip top bottle. I took mine home.
In La Rochele dine at the beautiful La Cigale.
Pont Aven Is noted for its Trou Mad, buttery cookies that come in attractive, various tins at the shop there.
We liked Paimpol, The pointe de Raz, Cap Frehel,Concarneau,
and the Briere regional National Park, and Guerande to see how the famous salt is gathered
We visited Rotheneuf haven to see the Sculptured rocks,
the work of a local priesnt in 19c. He carved all kinds of monsters and figures. This was several years ago and glad we went because the ocean will one day claim that as a few have lost some of their forms.we also visited Carnac to view
the megaliths

>>In La Rochele dine at the beautiful La Cigale.<<

There is an amazing (decor) restaurant called La Cigale in Nantes. Is there one in La Rochelle too - I could not find it in my Michelin Red Guide.

Stu Dudley

"There is an amazing (decor) restaurant called La Cigale in Nantes. Is there one in La Rochelle too - I could not find it in my Michelin Red Guide".

It is in Vaux-sur-Mer.