Castellanese -
To be honest, I never had the breakfast. After a large lunch, happy hour nibbles and dinner I had no appetite for breakfast.

As for clothes - I bought some wonderful scarves, shirts, shoes and jackets.

I saw lots of book stores - it's a university town.

How many days for Bologna itself? Maybe three or four. I did day trips to Modena, Parma and Ravenna from Bologna in the middle of my trip. After 3 days of day tripping I was ready to relax, eat and do some shopping.

Catbert -
The aceto balsimico was my favorite.

Linda's attending Carnival in Venice - how wonderful.

Congrats on your new adventures.

Thanks Carta_Pisana!

Dear Sir Pisana......How do you stay so slim????
This is a delicious report....and very poetic!!
Let me know when you are readyf for a Wine Media Guild repeat at Felidia's!!
ps....Pray for us during Carnivale....it is the only time that we could make arrangements!!

Hi Carta_Pisana,

I really enjoyed your report, it was a very interesting take. The food and chocolates had my mouth watering!

We too, enjoy a less touristy type of travel so I really appreciate your insight and this report.

Thanks for taking the time to post and welcome home.

Greetings Carta Pisana--

Your trip report is simply perfect for us--we are headed to Bologna in May and I was uncertain about how many days we might use it as a base. We have already planned 3 days in Bologna, 4 in Venice and 2 in Ravenna--with your suggestions, I think we will be fine to go back to Bologna for the last 2 nights--we have a super early flight from the Bologna airport.

Regarding the restaurants, I have 2 questions--did you notice and sharing on the courses (the amoung of food you describe is just too much for us--and we have had good luck sharing in the south of Italy)? What approximate range of prices were your dinners in Bologna? I am printing out your suggestions to take along.

Mille Grazie,
Robyn France

Thanks for sharing the info, great report.

I intended "Did you notice ANY sharing of courses" ? Sorry

antipasti : 5E- 10E
primi: 10E - 15E
secondo: 15E - 25E (including the white truffle dishes)
desserts: 7E
wine: 10E - 20E

I usually had a 4 course meal and bottle of wine, bottle of water, maybe a digestif - prices range from 45E to 80E. I usually just rounded up the bill

guide books:
Footprint, Bologna
http://www.footprintbooks.com/

Cadogan Guides, Bologna & Emilia Romagna
http://www.cadoganguides.com/

Touring Club of italy, Authentic Emilia-Romagna
http://www.touringclub.it/

RobynFrance -
As for sharing courses - at Tamburni's entoeca I noticed people sharing a meat plate and a cheese plate. At restaurants I didn't notice specifically couples sharing courses, maybe dessert. Of course you don't have to eat a four course meal like I did. At La Rustica in Ravenna I just had antipasti and pasta. I'msure you could have a bowl of tortellini in brodo and some roasted vegetables and be fine.

Also - I had a very early flight leaving Bologna. Albergo Centrale arranged for a taxi the night before - no problems at all.

Hi

I am travelling to Italy in late May and am seriously considering staying in Bologna for 3 or 4 nights instead of Florence. Some websites make it sound really quaint and others imply it is 'dirty' -- any comments on that? I know we could day trip to Florence from here; would it be possible to day trip to Venice? (albeit a long day).

Is Bologna a better choice for a base than Florence?

Carta Pisana, I'm delighted to see your report, as I plan to spend three nights in Bologna in early July. A couple of questions:

Does that hotel have an elevator? If not, can you estimate how many stairs are involved?

How long did you spend in Ravenna? How did you get to Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, by taxi?

How long did you spend in Parma?

I'm not sure if I would do one or two daytrips, but these would be my top choices. Thanks.

ttt in the hopes of catching Carta Pisana.

t

We did a day trip from Bologna to Venice last July. It was a long day trip but worth it.

Fantastic stuff! Thanks! Restaurant reviews in particular.....

Susan -
Albergo Centrale has an elevator.

I was only in Ravenna for the day - it's about 1 1/2 hour train ride from Bologna. I met someone in Ravenna - we had lunch - he showed me some the sights. I believe the Cadogan guide has details on transport.

Only in Parma for the day - it's about 1 hour train ride from Bologna.

I love mosaics and since childhood have wanted to see San Vitale. The cathedral and bapistry in Parma are gorgeous - and the square their on has such beautiful porportions. And those ravioli at il Trovatore were transcendent.

Thanks, I appreciate the information. I plan to stay in Bologna, so the one day in Ravenna and Parma is what I would be doing as well.

Susan: There's a bus that goes out to Sant'Apollinare in Classe; I think it's about a 10-15 minute ride. I ran out of time so didn't get to do it, but I remember seeing the information for it.

Oh, and Susan, the city center of Ravenna, where all the other monuments are, is very compact and walkable--Sant'Apollinare in Classe is really the only one that requires transport. You can get a multi-monument ticket that discounts you into more than one monument. I bought mine I think at San Vitale (the first place I went), but you can get it at the tourist office also, I imagine.

I saw lots of people riding bikes in Ravenna so I wondered if you can rent them someplace. I bet you can.

In Ravenna at the tourist information near the mercato, they have bicycles they allow you to use free of charge only asking that you return them by the time they close.