Barb's New Adventure - The Camino!
 

Well it’s finally going to happen. After lots of dreaming about it and then asking myself can I really do it, I am going to walk a portion of the Camino de Santiago. Initially I was going to do this solo, but when my family heard what I was planning, my son’s wife, asked if she could join me. She thought it was a wonderful thing to do. At first I was a little apprehensive, hmm this was to be a bit of a soul searching, spiritual adventure for me and to also figure out how to accept and welcome the next phase of my life (retirement), so I thought that was best to do alone. DIL are very close and I love her dearly, so after giving it a good thought, I said of course I would love for her to join me. My son and her mother very kindly agreed to be Mom to their two little ones while she is gone.

Then came deciding when exactly to do it and where we would start our walk. Because she only has a limited amount of time to be away, it was agreed to start in Sarria and do it, hopefully in 6 days. Actually, I’m not sure my legs and feet would allow me to go much further than that. So that decided, we then thought about albergues v. hotels. Hotels won out, although we both think it might be fun to stay one night in a albergue. I was able to reserve ahead of time, which I thought would be wise given how many pilgrims are now walking the Camino from Sarria to Santiago. So here is our itinerary:

Oct 1:
Fly from SEA to LHR to Madrid to Santiago (arriving in Santiago at 7:45 pm) on Oct. 2. We will spend that night at Hotel Costa Vella. We will be staying there at the end of our walk as well, so they will keep my suitcase there for me while we are walking.

Oct 3:
Bus from Santiago via Lugo to Sarria where we will be staying at Hotel Mar de Plata, 55€. We will spend the day there getting our credentials and relaxing a bit before our walk the next morning.


Oct 4: Sarria to Portomarin (Hotel Villajardin, 60€, breakf. incl ) 23 km
Oct 5: Portomarine to Lestedo (Casa Rectoral de Lestedo 85€) 21 km
Oct 6: Lestedo to Melide (Hotel Carlos 96, 40€) 19 km
Oct 7: Melide to Arzua (Hotel Casa Theodora, 45€) 15 km
Oct 8: Arzua to Rua (Casa do Acivro, 46€) 19 km
Oct 9: Rua to Santiago (Hotel Costa Vella, 88€) 19 km

We will stay in Santiago for three nights. We plan on taking the bus to Finisterre to complete our pilgrimage. DIL will fly home the same route, very early on the 12th and I will hop on the bus to Porto, Portugal at 11:00 a.m. I will be in Porto for two nights staying at InPatio Guest House, 68€ nt, including breakfast.

I’m then taking the train down to Lisboa, where I will again stay at Hotel Residencial Florescente. Stayed there last year and LOVED it. 43.50 € nt, including a huge buffet breakfast. I will be there until Oct. 24th

Fellow Fodorite Jeff will be in Santiago for a few days, so we will meet up and he will also be in Porto when I’m there. Also, Julia-t will be joining me in Lisboa for four days. Last year she managed a very quick trip to come see me while I was there, so this time we will really be able to enjoy our time together in this wonderful city.

I’ll post my preparations for the Camino and what I’m planning on taking with me so far in the next day or two.

Buen Camino. If you have not paid for the hotel iN Santiago please take a look at Tafona do Peregrino, we like it a lot. See if they will hold your luggage.

http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/a-ta...518466b7414X86

Whatever you planning to take on The Cammino be sure to put it in your backpack and walk around with it get used to it. And buy boots now to make sure they proper for your feet and read up on blisters on your feet.

Again buen camino!

What

Had a few minutes between jobs, so here's my next installment

Preparation and Packing List:

We’ve both been reading and researching as much as we can about the Camino. There are a couple of very good YouTube videos. One I really enjoyed is Camino Mit Baby. A young Irish couple with their 6 mos baby. I’ve got a pretty good idea about what to take and what not to take. We will be taking backpacks with everything we need for 6 days in them. Obviously, weight and smart packing are the key points here. We both have Osprey 35 packs, mine is a youth size because I have a short torso and most “adult” packs were too big.

http://www.rei.com/product/768244/os...-35-pack-youth

Black Diamond trekking poles;

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/...Mojave#start=5

Moab GTX boots

http://www.rei.com/product/810830/me...g-shoes-womens

I have Royal Robbins black lightweight pants and a REI brand khaki pant that you can roll up and fasten with the snap.

I will take my REI lightweight rain jacket w/hood and also a lightweight zip up jacket w/o hood that I can wear under the rain jacket if it gets cool. One LS microfiber top, 2 SL microfiber tops and one microfiber tank top. Two sports bras, 3 Patagonia undies, 3 rei hiking socks and 2 liners. 1 black/white bandana and one lightweight scarf. Sunday Afternoons hat

http://www.sundayafternoons.com/sprinter-cap.html

I think that’s about it for clothes.

Accessories so far are: spork, Eagle Creek packing sacks, phone/charger. Large safety pins

http://shop.eaglecreek.com/packit-sp...t/d/1246_c_213

journal/pen, small first aid kit, which includes blister stuff (needle & thread) toothbrush/paste, face cream, small hairbrush, scrunchy

My best purchase, I think, is this little sit pad. It weighs nothing and I think might come in handy for rest stops, or lunch on the Way.

http://www.rei.com/product/829881/th...est-z-seat-pad

I am trying to decide whether to take my little Nexus 7 tablet. It will be a real luxury item. Obviously I will be doing lots of “practice walks” with the backpack on so I will be able to get a good idea how much I can carry without killing myself.

I walk a lot. I go to the gym and walk on the treadmill every morning before work. I alternate between the “fat burning” and “rolling hills” mode. I do 2 miles. I also use the weight machines every other day and do lots of squats.

On weekends for the last month I have been doing longer walks on the local trails. I live just north of Seattle and we are blessed with tons of great walking trails and hikes, on lots of different terrain with plenty of hills thrown in. So far, I’m averaging between 4-7 miles, without the pack. This is breaking in my new boots also. My goal is to be able walk 10 miles, two days in a row with the pack on. I will go slowly with the pack. First, just the pack, then gradually adding things from my “Camino Box”.

So, that’s about all I can think of for now. Feel free to comment on any of the above and those of you who are old veterans of the Camino, I would love to hear your input.

I am so excited, but also a little freaked out about the whole thing now that it is fast approaching. I keep telling myself there is no shame in taking a bus/taxi if I need to, or have my backpack shipped to the next hotel, but I have to say, I really want to do it the way I have dreamed about and walk proudly into the pilgrims’ office in Santiago and get my certificate. Wow, that would just be about the coolest thing I’ve ever done!

My husband and I have been talking about some day doing the Camino for some time now, but I'm not sure we'll ever really do it - by the time we retire we may not be fit enough. So I will be thrilled to vicariously follow along on your trip. I'm very interested in your preparation and training schedule and how it all works out. Good luck.

Sounds good.

I am so jealous. I meant to make this a priority, starting from my house in France, a year or so ago, and then I broke my calcaneus...NOT going to happen anytime soon. But we will do it one day. Other than the broken foot and (after 9 months) still some swelling and stiffness, it will all be good I hope in a year or two. Other than the foot, I'm fit, so hope springs eternal that I can one day do this.

Good for you! Report as you can!

Take some duct tape. It may come in handy for all kinds of things. Also, some kind of blister aids.

Good luck!

I would also suggest you read the forum dedicated to all of the Caminos.
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/

Take the Nexus! Weighs little and will allow you to keep your fans updated while enroute! ;^)

And wear the heck out of those shoes before you leave... get them broken in.

Good luck on the walk!

I'd like to do this too, but I think I'd use the luggage forwarding service and just carry a day pack.

Looking forward to the report!

Keep breaking in those boots, read Pilgrim Snail http://www.amazon.com/Pilgrim-Snail-.../dp/0708947956

whatever weight you have in your day bag, halve it :-)

Good for you! I've been wondering about doing it, but I'm way out of shape - I'm thinking about the new Channel Islands path as a warm up. That's a long first leg, will you be walking that far as part of your training?

I met a Canadian woman on the train from Santiago to Porto in 2004 who had just come off the Camino - you might find her book interesting (note: she started out with a group....):

Jane Christmas: "What the Psychic told the Pilgrim"

Thanks for all your comments. Duct tape is a good idea, I've heard some pilgrims wrap it around their trekking pole so they didn't have to carry it in their pack. I will definitely look into those book suggestions. The Camino forum is one I have been reading and is a good source of information.

StCirq, I really hope your foot is in good shape soon so you can walk the Camino too. You are probably way ahead of me in terms of being in shape.

I'm thinking the Nexus will come in handy for many things, including books and that way I don't have to carry a book. I'll have to wait and see if it makes the final cut. I agree about packing the backpack and then taking half out. This is supposed to show me how I can live with much less than I think I can, ha.

Barb...

I am filled with admiration for you in this pilgrimage, and as I hope you know I wish you all the very best.

And above all, I am looking forward to meeting up with you in Lisbon afterwards, when I shall happily listen to all your stories over many glasses of chilled wine.

In the meantime, it is nice to catch up with you here.

Good luck! That is on my bucket list.

Good luck,

Most important things to consider are:

1) Feet

2) Feet

3) Feet

Don't take anything for "just in case"

Buen camino

How great you are doing part of this.. I'm sure you will have lots of bits and pieces to tell us. You may want to be easy on yourselves that first day or two at least and use the luggage service ( 3E) and just take a day pack and see how you do. The less weight on your feet the better since you have reservations everywhere.

Meant to add "have a great camino":: Buen camino to you both. Such a lovely journey for you two.

Barb, how exciting to see you post about this!!

I also used the Merrell Moab, but the mid one( I felt I needed the ankle support), that's a great choice!

From what you describe you'll be very well prepared for the Camino. I never thought of training with the back pack (but mine was smaller that yours as I was using it only as a daypack)If you're looking for a guide to take I suggest the John Brierly Camino de Santiago guidebook.

I remember walking by the Rectoral de Lestedo, right on the Camino, it looked very nice.

In Melide make sure you go for pulpo(octopus) to Pulperia Ezequiel. We liked it so much we went twice in two days.

I love the Costa Vella! Hopefully it will not be too cold and you'll be able to enjoy their garden , lovely. Roberto will take good care of you.

I'm so happy you and your DIL are doing this, you will never forget it.

Buen Camino!!

Oh, I forgot to say , bring moleskin in case you develop "hot spots" on your toes like I did. It came in very handy! I just got one blister which I took care off and no more problems.

yes, the key is to really break in those shoes.

What a great idea to go to Porto afterwards. I was there for a day stop in a cruise a couple of years ago and loved it.Maybe I'll do the same next time I'm in Santiago.

A friend walked the Camino from St Jean PdP to Santiago a month ago.

www.wherescate.net was her blog, and her Camino was very profound for her.

The Camino is on our list of things to do in a year or so.

Brierly's book is worth getting, maybe not worth carrying.

Buen Camino!

book marking

Great responses, thank you all. Julia, it will be so good to see you again and catch up on our lives and things. My biggest concern will be keeping my feet healthy. I've read so many suggestions on how to do that from putting vaseline on them every day, to types of socks and liners v no liners. One thing I'm noticing with my practice walks and breaking in my boots is that my feet sweat. I'm wondering if it's because the boots are GTX, or is it the socks - REI Light Hiking. Haven't been wearing liners. They say wet feet breeds friction and thus blisters. Have to work on that one.

I'm also looking for a really lightweight day pack that I might tuck into backpack just in case I decide to have the transport service take my backpack on to next stop. Maybe I should just wait until I get there?

I realize the first two days will be the hardest as they will be the longest days, and looks like some steep inclines/declines those days, but I purposely made the next few days shorter that's why we are stopping at Lestedo instead of Palais Rey and then Melide instead of walking further as suggested in Brierly's guidebook. Well, to be perfectly honest here, it was mostly so I could stay in Melide and partake in as much pulpo as I can get and yes, at Pulperia Ezequiel!!

As much as I hate tearing up a good book, we will just take the pages from Brierly's book as applies to our walk.

Peter, thanks for the link, I'll take a peek.

Trying to find a water bottle that can be attached to front of my backpack strap so it will be really easy to get to. The side pockets require twisting around and with a full pack might be hard to get in and out.

My other concern is that DIL walks much faster than I do. I've told her to go ahead and we will just meet up at the next stop, but she keeps saying, that's ok, I will walk slower, but I want her to enjoy her walk and not to feel that I am holding her back. I think she's a little nervous about being on her own and getting lost and not speaking Spanish. This will be her first trip to Europe and she's a little apprehensive. I think once we are there, we will both find our own pace and it will all work out. I think I just have to keep emphasizing this with her. We will both have phones so we won't be out of touch. Plus, sounds like that stretch of the Way is pretty populated nowadays.

Has anyone had any experience with any of the hotels we've booked? I think for one night, we can pretty much get by with whatever, but it would be great if they were nice.

Everyone has their own tips for foot care so experiment to see what works best for you.

Better than vaseline is this http://www.compeed.co.uk/compeed-foo...-blister-stick It's a "non-greasy" grease to rub on pressure points. Not sure if you can get in the US but its available in Spain. It really helps prevent blisters. The compeed blister patches are much better than moleskin.

Also I used these insoles www.superfeet.com/products/Green.aspx to support my feet in my boots. Your feet will sweat - yes probably the GTX.

For socks, one thick, two thin or one of each? Keep trying different combinations to see what you prefer. I used these tinyurl.com/ond22d3 which are a liner and outer all in one.

Can you use a hydration pack with your backpack? I found it much easier to constantly sip from a drinking tube rather than a bottle.

And yes do encourage your DIL to walk ahead if you have two different walking paces. It can be frustrating for a quick walker to walk slowly. Everyone finds their own rhythm, plus it can be easier to meet more people walking solo, rather than being joined at the hip.

No experience with the hotels - used the albergues. The only hotel was in Santiago where I was bitten by bed bugs!

Forgot about the daypack...

for a very lightweight day pack I took this www.seatosummit.com/products/display/86 It scrunches down into pocket sized - really cool.

Last year I was in Camino mode like you.
What a wonderful adventure for you to look forward.
The first two days played havoc with my big toes and both nails pushed in causing blisters at the bottom of the nail. Took them almost 5 months to heal so yes its all about the feet.

We stayed in the Rectoral in Lestedo. Lovely place with beautiful views at the back.
Another thumbs up for the Pulperia Ezequiel.
I think we may have also stayed in Casa Theodora but couldnt swear to it.I did do a trip report with the names of the hotels we used so you can check there. We had it all done by Nativa travel and the arrangements were spectacular.

If you need or want me to try to get hold of the compeed stuff for you, I am more than happy to post it to you.

You can pay me back in wine! lol :)

Barb,

Yes, I have the same shoes and the waterproofing unfortunately make them warmer, they dont breathe as well, but I found in the end it was not a big problem. I bought liners and ended just using the socks without the liner. On my feet I used a lubricant called "Sportslick". Dont recall who recommended it. As I mentioned, I did get one blister which I cured and no more problems.

Of your segments the one that has the worst incline is going down into Portomarin and then going up on the way out. But its not horrible, just take your time. Your hiking pole will become your best friend!

Tell your DIL not to worry, just to follow the yellow arrows, its almost impossible to get lost. I walked by myself most of the time because my family walks faster than me( frankly, I loved the solitude)

sofarsogood, I love all of your suggestions. The Ultra-Sil looks perfect! When I bought my boots I almost bought the superfeet insoles, but decided to wait and see how the boots felt without them. I might just get them. I have some Compeed blister pads that I bought last year in Lisbon, but probably should get a few more, plus the blister-stick. Eeks, bed bugs!! How did you treat them and did the little buggers get into your stuff? Big fear of that happening.

From the diagram in Brierly's book, it looks like it is a bit of a climb shortly after leaving Sarria? From youtube videos, it looks like it is rolling type hills all the way to Santiago? Not too worried about gradual ascents/descents. Other than into and out of Portomarin, are there more steep grades?

emdee, good to know about the Rectoral. I actually got the idea for our walking itinerary from www.peregrineadventures.com Seemed perfect for us.

cruiseluv, I will reassure DIL again that it will be almost impossible to get lost. She is a very independent person, so I have a feeling once we get there and she can see for herself what it's like, she will be just fine walking at her own pace. She will probably prefer it.

Thanks again, you guys are the best!

Julia, that is very sweet of you to offer to post compeed stuff. I might just have enough time when we are transferring at LHR to run into Boots and grab what we need, or in Sarria the day we arrive there.

Every morning when I go for my walk, "for my camino" is one surefire self-encouragement.

I just bought boots, also Merrel Moab, http://www.rei.com/product/747206/me...g-boots-womens

Looking forward to reading about your journey.
Buen camino!

Tell your DIL there are little villages along the way.. cafés with outdoor terraces where the trail passes right in front. Also there are markers on the path with km numbers.

Like mentioned.. she wil not get lost and there will be plenty of people who speak English walking and in the towns.
This will be such a memorable trip.

I'll be going to the states in August if there is anything from here ( compeed stick, etc.) I can get you and send it to you, I'd be happy to do so.

Buen Camino!!! We are walking next year in celebration of my 40th birthday :) We have a little more time than you, so we are planning to walk from Leon - I wish we could walk farther, but such is life, we take what we can get. We've started our training and started thinking about what we will take. Since you guys are going to stay in hotels, you can leave off some bulky items like sleeping bags, which will make your load lighter and smaller. That's definitely a point in favor of hotels :)

I looked at those Moab boots, LHS. They look great, but they are not waterproof and because we are going in Oct possible rain and wet conditions made me decide on GTX.

lincasanova, I will definitely let DIL know about the villages along the Way and how she does not have to be concerned about not speaking Spanish, although we are both listening to Pimsleur cds, hoping to at least know a few of the basics. How very kind of you to offer to send me things. Where in the States are you visiting?

november - I am hoping to get the weight in my backpack at around 8- 10 lbs. Believe me, it will be bare minimums.

Bedbugs - heard stories about people having to boil wash clothes or chuck their sleeping bags. I think the reason I got bitten was because I slept "au naturel" in the hotel bed, rather than in my usual silk sleeping bag liner, and awoke with a line of bites on my leg. It's the straight line of bites that's the giveaway, rather than just any old insect bite.

Don't get paranoid just take precautions. Wherever you stay, be it hotels or albergues, don't scatter your clothes across the room. My stuff was kept in stuff sacs so they acted as barrier. Thankfully they didn't get into my clothes and the bites faded after a few days - didn't need lotions or potions!

arizona, colorado, chicago and cincinnati

Thanks for the info re bed bugs - egads, it makes me itch just thinking about it. Can you spot them by looking on the mattress? Maybe we should do a BB inspection before we hop into bed.

Lin, sounds like a great trip. Thanks again for the offer, but I'm hoping we can pick up what we need once we get there.

Being a first time poster , I am a little nervous about saying too much or not enough.

But having come across this forum when preparing for my own Camino last year ( and followed many other topics with interest since) here goes:

I will try not to repeat all the good advice given but based on my experience of walking from Sarria to Santiago late June 2012, I am sure you will have a memorable ,if exhausting time.

I was not fit and only used to walking about 5 kms a day . However due to time factors we had a couple of long days ( over 26km) which I don't recommend. So your schedule looks good to me , particularly the overnighting in Melide.

Originally I was walking alone but my 25 yo daughter thought I needed company. Best decision I made. We became much closer and I would not have made it without her.

I wore Merrill' Siren Sports and she wore her Ascic runners.. We wore Katmandu 'cool max' socks ( not sure the US equivalent but most hiking shops would have some) and no liners. We put vaseline on our feet everyday and also preemptive Compede blister pads( can be bought throughout Europe)
DD had no problems. I got one blister as I didn't stop to tighten laces when they loosed( perhaps weight also contributed)
We also rubbed Voltaren Gel on our leg muscles morning and night- seemed to help. As did walking poles although I was a novice with these as well.

We stayed at hotels- no bedbugs or air conditioning and didn't open for early starts.

We carried our packs for the first two days. Weighed about 5 kg but felt like 10 at the end of the day so then we shipped on for 3 euro each . great value. While we saw many carry packs we saw more without.

DD carried small day pack with food, water , camera and ponchos. I tied jacket round my waist .
As mentioned, there are plenty of small villages and Cafes en route where your DIL can sit and wait.

We used John Brierlys book of maps which was compact and provided sufficient info on the route, accommodation, Cafes etc.

Happy to answer any questions

Buen Camino

Bed Bugs <<Can you spot them by looking on the mattress?>> I didn't see any signs, but apparently they look like lentils and black spots on a mattress could be a sign of their poo! http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/bed-bug...roduction.aspx So a quick look wouldn't be remiss. But don't worry, in all likelihood you won't have any problems.

Had a look at your hotel in Santiago, which is at no. 17. The place I stayed, Pension Casa Felisa, is just a few doors away at no. 5. Get a room at the back of building for some great views and sunsets.

There's great restaurant down the street on the left www.bierzoenxebre.es

And another foot tip, before I overload you with information, consider taking walking sandals, or at least sandals you can walk in. After walking 4 hours in hot sweaty shoes/boots it can be great to walk for a couple of hours in just sandals, to let your feet breathe. Plus you can wear them in the evenings.

For me, I would only be carrying a huge pack if I had no idea where I was going to sleep and was "winging it".

Agree with Sofarsogood recommendation of the Bierzo Enxebre restaurant. The garden restaurant at Casa Felisa is also good and lovely to sit at if weather cooperates.
Yes,our rooms at the Costa Vella faced the back and views were indeed lovely. It also makes for more quiet because if facing the street could be loud at times.