Barb's adventures from Barcelona to Paris
 

Please excuse any typos or errors in spelling as I am on my little laptop, so I will apologize up front and give any details if requested.

I arrived in Paris on the 19th having started my journey from Barcelona where fellow Fodorite Julia and I had a fabulous week. Temps in the hi 70’s and just lovely.

From there I left on the train to Collioure, France. It is a beautiful seaside town that was my vacation from my vacation destination for two nights and it did not disappoint. I stayed at the Hotel Bon Port, www.bon-port.com in a wonderful room with a panoramic view of the water and the town. It is maybe a 5 min walk to the town. Collioure is very tranquil and picturesque. I mostly just strolled the little alleys with lots of little shops and galleries. I actually took the little tourist train that takes you up above the town into the hills and vineyards. I rarely do this type of thing, but it was a nice way to see the whole area and to take some panoramic photos.

From Collioure it was back on the train to the next stop, Beziers. What a contrast! It is a small town and not a real tourist destination, but I really loved it. It seems more a working man’s town with people going about their every day lives. And, everyone I encountered was very friendly and patient with my limited French. The Cathedral is quite stunning as well as the views from there. I mostly just walked around taking in the morning market, which was rather like a huge flea market with everything from used clothes, shoes, collectibles and then fruits,vegs, cheese, olives, sausages. Very low key, but worthwhile. I stayed at Hotel Des Poetes, which was in a good location right on the park of the same name. It is budget, but had a little balcony and nice deep tub for a good soak, which I needed after that train trip. More on that later.

Then after 2 nights it was on to Dijon. As I got further north the weather took a turn, much cooler weather, but still sunny. I stayed at Hotel Le Jacquemart, www.hotel-lejacquemart.fr This was probably the nicest of the hotels and at a very good rate of 56 euros nit with a balcony and a spacious well appointed room and a nice tub, with a very generous breakfast at only 6 euros. The location was perfect, very central to everything. Unfortunately I arrived late on a Sunday and most things were closed. I managed to find one of the few places open for dinner and it was not great, so I won’t even mention it. Monday was another day of most things being closed. I was so looking forward to the well known market, but alas, it was closed too. I booked a wine tour through the tourist office, but I was the only one who showed up and therefore it was cancelled. So I was a little bit at odds and felt it was a rather wasted day. At this point I was quite frankly a little weary from the train travel and a bit depressed. Thankfully I was there for 3 nights. The next day was the turning point. EVERYTHING was open, wow what a difference that made. I signed on for a walking tour of Dijon, and again was the only one who showed, but it did not cancel and I had a wonderful private tour with a most delightful French woman who spoke very good English. I highly recommend the walking tours and at 6 euros, it was a bargain. The market, what can I say -- it is amazing, the outdoor one and the covered market. I would have killed to be staying in an apt so I could have shopped and cooked a wonderful meal for myself.. I shopped at the Maille store and bought two little pots of mustard, which they pack very nicely for travel and then to the shop the guide had recommended for a little bottle of cassis for yummy kir royales when I get home. BTW did you know that until 2 yrs ago, 90% of the mustard seeds came from W. Canada!! And now only 60%, who knew.

Had a really good dinner at Le Petite Roi de la Luna, cozy and welcoming place. So far my best meal in France. Starter of wonderful pate w/ warm crusty bread and the entrée of country ham in a light cheese and wine sauce with oh so wonderful crispy rounds of sautéed potatoes. Dessert was a gingerbread flavored crème brulee, superb!, with a glass of vin = 22 euro.

So Dijon did not start out so good, but ended very well.

Then back on the train to Paris!!

More to come if you are interested. And the woes of train travel with a small but heavy suitcase and going up and down many stairs, trying to figure out if I am on the right track, train and not quite the leisurely looking out the window at the beautiful French countryside that was the whole point of the train journey.

Left Dijon in the pouring rain, got soaked on the platform waiting for my train. Well that’s all a part of the travel adventure isn’t it.

Lovely to hear from you and how it's all going since I waved you off at the door of our Barcelona apartment last week!

Looking forward to more about Paris when you can find the time...

Keep writing! I'm enjoying this very much and am taking notes since we will be in Barcelona next year and will train into France.

I'm interested, it is always fun to read about a friend's trip and I'll keep it for future reference.

Definitely interested, looking forward to more.

TRAINS

As I said, I really wanted to experience train travel from the south heading north, hoping to relax, take in the wonderful views of the French countryside and do it before I got too old and feeble, ha, to be able to do it. Well, I’m not old, but I’m not as young as I feel most of the time. It was a challenge.

First of all, I do travel somewhat light, with just a 22” suitcase, although not exactly light, and a medium size Rick Steves backpack with lovely padded straps and a secure place for my little laptop. That would have been fine if I didn’t carry all my “electronic accessories, which in hindsight I used, but did I really need it??? US phone and charger, camera and charger, Europe phone and charger and Ipod charger, plus all the other things I would not want to lose if the suitcase (bag from hell, aka BFH) was lost or stolen. Wont’ go into details about that, but I am sure you know what I am talking about.

So--- From Barcelona to Figueres - no problemo, station in BCN is great and escalators to the tracks, also easy on and off the train as the train opens right onto the platform so I could wheel the BFH right on and there was a luggage area just as if I had ordered it. The exchange in Figueres, was simple as they whisk you off the Renfre right on to the TGV on my way to Perpignan. BTW, I printed most of my tickets online to take advantage of some PREM fares and just for the ease of it, EXCEPT the Perpignan to Collioure leg. I printed it off, but had to collect my ticket there. That’s where the real fun began. BE SURE TO TAKE THE SAME CREDIT CARD WITH YOU THAT YOU USED TO PURCHASE THAT TICKET!!!
I had 40 min. to catch my train to Collioure, but the line to pick up my ticket was SO long. I was starting to sweat. The very nice young French girl behind me line suggested that I try to get my ticket from one of the machines. She said because I had a confirmation number it would be easy, HA. Again, it asked for my credit card that I used to purchase the ticket. Then I tried to just buy a new ticket, but the machine would not take a card without the chip in it. Luckily one of the ticket agents saw that we were having a problem and took me by the arm to the front of her line and long story short, I did have to buy a new ticket. By this time I had 5 min to catch my train - again, down stairs, up stairs to the right track and onto the regional ter train. I had no idea where to get off for Collioure, they don’t announce stations and only stay at each stop for a nanosecond, but, I did manage to literally throw my bag off at Collioure!!

The rest of the train trips were better, but still hard trying to manage the BFH. And, the trains were packed, not leisurely and not what I had envisioned. Would I do it again, no. Do I regret it no. I am glad to be in Paris. No more trains. I will book a Taxis G7 to the airport online the night before I leave. I know the RER is easy, but the nearest to me is St. Michel and there are stairs to navigate down. It will be worth the price of the taxi not to have to deal with it.

I don’t mean to whine, but I thought I would give others a heads up on the trials and tribulations of train travel, alone, with a BFH and not being as young as I used to be.

PARIS

I won’t bore with you all the little details of any daily wanderings, but will point out some of the highlights so far. Because this is my 5th trip to Paris, I didn’t feel the need to visit any of the major sites again, so mostly I wanted to see some of the lesser known places on my list., if anyone is still reading this and interested.

Good report, Barb. I've been to Paris many times and seen all the major sights over and over. Your next episode will definitely be of great interest to me.

well the first order of business upon arriving in a rather chilly Paris was to buy a warm turtleneck sweater that I could wear under my black trench that didnt make me look like the Michilin man or a stuffed black sausage. Mission accomplished at a cute little boutique on rue Rennes. That done, I needed warmer socks, again mission accomplished at the Monoprix. My next goal was to the find the little jewelry store that my French idol, Ines de la Fressange (check out her videos on Roger Vivier's web page entitled Ines Little Diaries). She walks you around Paris visting little shops and one of her favorites is Les Bijoux d' Adeline, 54 rue Jacob. OMG, her pieces are stunning and so simple and elegant. I found the ring I have been dreaming about, but, it was 696 euors, so not in my budget. I have longed for that ring and left very disappointed. Can I eat beans and rice when I get home for the next month, no, but I will still dream about it.

Popped into Cozi on rue de Seine for a quick, but delicious salad and then shopped at the Carrefour for some supplies for the apartment on rue de Savoie. www.residences-paris.com

It is a tiny little place and maybe not luxurious, but fits my needs and is such a premier location.

Dinner was at Au Chai de l'Abbaye, 26 rue de Buci. It was just what I needed on a very cold evening, cozy and very welcoming. I am pretty sure I was the only non-french person in there, but the waiter was patient with my French. Starter was rillets de foie, which literally melted on my tongue and perfect with a glass of champagne. For my main, I've been told there is really only one dish to choose because it is so absolutely delicous, the morteau aux lentilles, smoked sausages over lentils. I am told that the tarte aux pruneaux is to die for, but I could not even think about dessert.
So all and all, a good first day in Paris!

Glad to read you are surviving the chilly weather after the warmth of Barcelona. It is always difficult packing a small (!) suitcase to accommodate two differing climates and weather conditions.

Keep posting - I'm enjoying reading this, and recalling the lovely warm weather I had during the last week of October last year. I hope it warms up for you this week.

Great report, Barb. I am following along. Did you and Julia write anything about your activities in Barcelona?

No, we talked about it, but we did not exactly do all the tourist things, so we weren't sure anyone would be interested, or if it would be particuarly interesting, but Julia, please help me out here with any details you would like to mention. Our little apartment was really great, except rather noisy at night. I, or Julia, can give you any details about it if anyone is interested.

Yes, anyone is interested.

Add me to the list of the interested! ;^)

This is another anyone who is interested.

Spent about 30 minutes looking at your Paris apartment agency. I've bookmarked it for future travels. Unfortunately, I think my next visit to Paris will be too short to warrant an apartment but you never know.

Enjoying your report so much. I am eager to see where else you go.

Great report - ready for more, thanks for sharing!

Am rushing out to work now, but I promise to post something about the Barcelona apartment later!

Hope you are still having fun in PAris, Barb.

I am having a wonderful time in sunny Paris. I've been walking a ton and also taking the metro all over town. Discovered a few new things and re-visited some of my favorites. I will write a full report when I get home, unfortunately leaving on Thursday morning.

Just a little tidbit to whet your appetite though. I did a day trip to La Ferte-Milon today with fellow fodorite Jeff, who is here for just a few days on his way to Sicily. It was just a wonderful day and felt like I had stepped back in time. This a charming little village, not on most people's radar, but very worth the hour trip on the very comfortable train. I FINALLY got the relaxing train trip through the lovely French countryside that I have been dreaming about. Not only were we the only tourists there, but very few locals were even walking around. Had lunch at Les Ruines, www.lesruines.com , a delightful French country lunch,which could be the highlight of my whole trip, truly, Again, something out of a movie. I will post all the details on how to get there and what to see. A photographer's paradise BTW.

I have also reserved a Taxi G7 to CDG, even though it is expensive (approx 60 euro) so the operator told me. So easy to do, you just call the number on their website, which I don't seem to have at my disposal at the moment, www.txig7.com and click on the English operator and it was very easy. Now, hopefully it will show up. Just couldn't face the BFH on the RER.

Sorry that should be - www.taxig7.com

I'm so glad you had a nice day! The restaurant looks delightful, so I look forward to hearing more about it. Enjoy the rest of your time in Paris.

Right, The Barcelona Flat.

Actually, that is what it's called! I found it during a google search, when Barb and I were hunting for a cheap apartment in a good location. And I mean cheap. This place is only 80 euros a night, with the bonus of a discount if you book 5 nights or more, ie one free night. So we only paid a total of 400 euros for the 6 nights.

We realised early on that all those lovely Habitat apartments were out of our price range! We wanted to stay in the old town, be it Barri Gotic or Born, and we definitely wanted 2 bedrooms, because neither of us was prepared to spend 6 nights on a pull-out-sofa-bed.

I found this place in the La Ribera district, which on the other side of Via Laietana to the Barri Gotic. La Ribera is divided in half, with El Born being to the south and San Pere to the north. The apartment is literally steps from La Palau de Musica Catalana, and maybe 5 minutes walk from Placa Catalunya.

It is also 2 minutes walk from the Santa Caterina market, and around the same to the Catedral. 5 minutes would get you to the Picasso Museum, and it's also around 5 minutes to Las Ramblas.

So, all in all a terrific location to be situated in.

The apartment itself is on the first (European) floor, above a small grocery store. There are other stores around, the market is very close, there are internet cafes, the tapas bar El Bitxo (slightly smelly) and a restaurant on the corner which didn't look like much but was fully booked every night we were there.

There was also an Irish bar round the corner on Via Laietana, where I went early one morning to watch England lose in the quarter-finals of the rugby world cup, and to which we returned on the Saturday evening and spent a riotous couple of hours! Think Guinness moustaches, dancing on the bar (no, not us!) and buckets of Baileys. It was good fun!

OK, back to the apartment. Outside door on the narrow street, narrow steps up to the first floor. This is an old building in an old neighbourhood. The apartment has a largish hallway with the kitchen (old-fashioned but has most things you might want for a short stay), bathroom and separate toilet, one (twin) bedroom with a small balcony overlooking the street - and straight into the room opposite! The sitting room leads off the hallway as well, and the main bedroom (double bed) is off this room. The sitting room has a small balcony and a window as well. The main bedroom also has a window looking onto the street.

The apartment was clean, the beds were comfortable. There is no airconditioning but we didn't need it. Plenty of towels int he cupboard, there was a bath tub as well as a shower, and the water was hot and plentiful. It did go a bit cold here and there if someone ran a tap in the kitchen or flushed the loo, but it was not a big deal.

The apartment is bigger than it looks in the photos, and we were very impressed with it overall. The major downside is that the narrow street outside are noisy, every footstep echoes upwards. After the 3rd night I found I slept through the noise much better, but I found the first few nights a bit difficult. But I am used to a very quiet house. Barb was affected less by the noise.

I paid the deposit by PayPal, and then a week before the final installment also by PayPal. The owner is an Indian man living in London, and he was very pleasant and easy to deal with. We also paid 60 euros cleaning fee to Montse who is the cleaning lady who lives nearby and who manages the apartment for the owner Deepak.

Anyway, here's the link...

http://www.thebarcelonaflat.com/The_...t/Welcome.html

Julia... great description of our apt. I loved it, especially for the space that it gave us and that our bedrooms were at opposite ends and would afford a lot of privacy if you needed it. All the windows gave great ventilation and the nice deep tub and separate shower were a bonus. The location was great, other than the noise at night. The price was amazing for the size and amenities. I would definitely stay there again, I would bring earplugs next time. LOVED Barcelona and we had no problems whatsoever with pickpockets or ever feeling unsafe, even late at night.

Thank you, Barb and Julia, for the reporting. The Barcelona apartment looks terrific.

Well, I got home safe and sound and unfortunately back to the real world and work, but I shouldn't complain too much, that's what makes traveling possible.

I will be working on the trip report as I can, just wanted to mention my last morning in Paris though. As I said, I reserved a taxi with Taxi G7 for a 9:00 am pick up. I was all packed and just wanted to tidy up the apt. before I left, wash my teacup, make sure the lights were all out and the window shut, but luckily I happened to look out the window at about 8:49 and, oh no, the taxi was pulling up!!! I grabbed my backpack and ran down the stairs. When I got to the street, no taxi, OMG. There was some construction going on next door and there was big dumpsters parked at the curb, so I stepped out into the street to see if I could see the taxi. It was at the end of the block with the turn signals on like it was going to turn the corner. In a panic, with my heart thumping, I literally ran down the street waving my arms frantically and yelling, stop, stop. I actually got to the back of the taxi and was banging on the trunk.

I threw my backpack in the trunk and managed to get the driver to follow me back to the apartment and help me carry my BFH down the two flights of stairs. He did not speak English and I am sure he thought I was a crazed tourist trying to lure him up to my apt. because he kept stopping and giving me this look. Because of the rushed exit, I did not get the windows shut, but I called the owner from the airport and apologized and explained what had happened. So here I was worried the taxi would be late and I would miss my flight, ha, never imagined it would be early! The fare was 54 euros, but I gave him a nice little tip (don't arrive early), just kidding, a real tip.

Sorry for the delay, but work and life just keep getting in the way. So... I've tried to figure out a way to organize this, but I think it's easiest just to do a quick overview of each day and then I can fill in with any details if requested.

As I said earlier, it was chillier than I had expected, so that rather eliminated some of my plans of walking through parks and some outdoor venues. Luckily, it did warm up after a couple of days, so it made walking much more enjoyable.

Friday, 10/21:

After a leisurely breakfast of baguette, butter, jam and tea, I hopped the metro to St. Paul. Walking along some little back streets, I spotted a charming little cafe, so I stopped for a cafe creme and some great people watching. On to Place des Vosges. I have to visit here every trip just because I love it that much. I also love window shopping at all the beautiful galleries which surround the Place. My next stop was Victor Hugo's apt. I can't believe I have never been here before and what a wonderful surprise it was. It is in the south east corner of Place des Vosges, #6. The apartments themselves are opulent and made me dream of what a wonderful place that would have been to live in the day with beautiful furnishings and art, much of which were Hugo's own drawings and sketches. Open 10:00 am to 6:00 pm except Mondays and holidays. Free admission.

Then it was on to the Cognacq-Jay Museum, 8 rue Elzevir, Metro: St. Paul. Open every day, except Monday 10:00 am to 5:40 pm. Free Admission.

Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay made their fortune with La Samaritaine Dept. store. Between 1900 and 1925, they amassed one of the finest private collections of 18th century paintings and objects d'art, which the couple then donated to the City of Paris. While the collection is quite stunning, the rooms themselves did not wow me like the Hugo apartments did. But it certainly is worth seeing and I'm glad I did.

As I was getting hungry, I decided a falalfel was just what I needed, but unfortunately L'As Du Fallafel was closed - on a Friday?? so, I just went around the corner to Chez Marianne, 2, rue des Hospitalieres-Saint Fervais. Because it was cold and I had been on my feet all morning, I decided to eat inside. Oh my, what an experience that was. It is small and cramped inside, but I loved the decor and the coziness factor. I ordered one of the falafel platters with warm pita and different essentials, hummus, grilled eggplant, a tomatoe relish, cornichons and olives. It was absolutely delicious. But, the real hoot was the very flamboyant waiter and the rest of the crew! Seriously, it was like an episode of Steinfeld. Certainly not as cheap as the take away falafels, but the "entertainment" was pricelss.

A walk around the Marais was a good way to work off some of that lunch and of course the obligatory stop at BHV. Bought a couple of tea towels and resisted buying more, remembering the BFH that I still had to get to the airport. I decided to walk "home". Dinner was wonderful, salad makings from the market on rue du Buci, rillets du canard and crusty bread and, of course, my favorite chilled muscadet from the Carrefour.

Of course that should be Seinfeld.

Sat. 10/22

The first thing on the agenda today is the Musee Nissin de Comondo, 63 rue de Monceau, Metro: Villiers or Monceau. Open Wed-Sun 10:00 - 5:30, 7 euros.

I would advise taking the audio tour. This mansion was built in 1911 by the Comte Moise de Camondo, a banker, to house his collection of 18th century furniture and art objects. Both the house and the collection were bequeathed to his son, but sadly he was killed in WW1. The mansion was then opened as a museum in 1935. More tragedy followed when a few years later, Moise's daughter and her family were deported to Auschwitz where they died. The mansion is maintained as if it were still a private home preserved in its original condition, even down to the bathrooms and toilets. I found the different kitchens fascinating and the gardens were lovely. I really enjoyed this museum, even though there was a lingering sadness about it. I think this is definitely a must see!!

Stopped and had a cafe creme on the wide, tree lined Blvd Malesherbes. This area was new to me and if it had not been so cold, I had planned to walk around and stroll through Parc de Monceau. The waiter was even complaining about the chilly weather. Next trip for sure.

I took the metro back to Les Halles area and walked to E. Dehillerin, a 190 yr.old kitchen supply store - a true cook's paradise!! I was in kitchen heaven. At first I was a little underwhelmed as the front is very plain and the aisles are narrow and the shelves are cluttered and the floors creak, not what I was expecting at all. But after browsing a little, I was hooked. I could have spent hours here. The salesmen are a little standoffish, but they are very knowledgeable and will make sure you get what you are looking for. The system of making a purchase is intersting. You take your items to the first guy who wraps them up and another guy then looks up the prices in a big book and writes them down. You take that slip to the guy who tallies it up for you and takes your money and gives you a receipt, then it's back to the first guy who has wrapped it up for you. If I had the room in the BFH, believe me I could have done some real damage in there. I did manage a small paring knife with Dehillerin engraved into the blade, a small wire whisk and 5 small individual bundt type cake pans. Other than the knife everything went into the growing backpack for the trip home.

Late lunch was at Au Pied Cochon, 6 rue Coquilliere, which is just around the corner from Dehillerin. There was a bit of a wait and I'm not sure it was really worth it. I ordered the famous onion soup, which was good, but not brilliant and a salad, which was ok, but not really worth the price. Well I can say I've been there at least. I was going to walk home from there, but I was tired and it was cold, so I took the metro, which was packed as it was now the rush hour.

There were tons of people out strolling the streets on this cold Paris evening, almost a festive atmosphere. Folks were huddled outside the cafes under the heaters. After a walk around trying to decide if I wanted to eat out after that late lunch, I just opted for take away from one of the wonderful places on rue du Buci. So, my evening was spent eating delicious potatoes dauphinoise, a 1/4 roti chicken and arugula w/vinegarette, sipping muscadet and listening to my French music collection. Doesn't get much better than that!

Barb, so enjoying your "road less traveled" adventures in Paris. I try to do that each time I'm in Paris, but I'm never in Paris enough :(. I'm bookmarking for future trips. Have you been to the Musee Marmottan? It's a lovely little museum, a former hunting lodge across from a park in the 16th filled with Monet's work - heaven!

Can't wait for more!

ellen, I love Musee Marmottan and that area. The day I went to the Musee there was a man with donkeys giving children rides in the park. The tree lined streets were gorgeous and getting out of the hustle bustle in a quieter part of town was a nice respite.

Sunday, 10/23

Today was market day!! Starting at rue Montorgueil. I just touched on this area when I went to Dehellerin, but I needed to go back and spend more time there. Things were bustling even at 9:00 am. It was cold, but sunny and I actually just blended in with the ladies with shopping carts and people out for their morning baguettes. Of course, I had to stop at Stoher bakery, just because.... I had to line up! As I nibbled on my delicious little pastry, I walked to Chatelet metro and went to, yes, my favorite market street and yes, I do have to go here every time I am in Paris - rue Mouffetard. There is a little nondescript hardware type store there, where I always find little treasures. 5 tiny spoons, perfect for jam jars and I was on to my next stop where I bought 6 little tins of various pates, I couldn't resist a vendor on the street selling lovely sweet black suede gloves with three little buttons for a bargain at 10 euros- who knows, probably made in China, but I love them, even if they only last one winter here. By this time, almost noon, the narrow street was crowded with locals and maybe just a few tourists.

I always enjoy the music and dancing at the end of the rue, beside St. Medard. How beautiful that these wonderful dancers and singers come here every Sunday at noon and share their joy and exuberance with us all. Perfect Parisian moment. The sights, smells, gorgeous cheese shops, seafood and meat displays, amazing and I never tire of this experience.

Because I was on a quest to find the perfect Croque M. and upon some recommendations here on Fodors, I found Cave la Bourgogne, 144 rue Moufftard, at the bottom of the rue and across from the fountain. It was such a great place, a large terrace, perfect on a sunny day, and yes, definitely, the perfect Croque Complet in town. I now know that will be my go to place for Croq. M. and the bonus, is a great morning shopping on the rue Moufftard before lunch.

Ok, I had to drag myself away, because I wanted to catch a Paris Walks tour of Le Pere Lachaise. I had thought about doing it on my own, but I am SO glad I opted for the tour. It is huge and I would NEVER have found the graves I wanted to see, ie, Modigliani. As an artist, I have such an emotional relationship with him and his unfortunate, tragic life. Paris Walks does such a great job with their tours. At 12 euros, it is a bargain!!! seriously. Chopin, Edith Piaf, Collette, Oscar Wilde and many more. But, I have to say the streets are rough cobblestones and hard to walk on for 2+ hours. My feet and ankles were screaming by the time I left. And, then it was onto a very packed metro home.

I would l have killed for a bathtub, or even a bidet, to soak my aching feet, but in lieu of that, a glass of vin, a personal foot massage, that's what you do when you are on your own ... and I was thinking about dinner. I decided on a restaurant just a short walk from my apt. Chez Calde, 54 rue St. Andres des Arts. When I arrived, it looked very full and I almost turned away, but then I spotted a tiny table tucked in a corner, which actually had a wonderful view of the whole resto. I walked in and was immediately welcomed by a cutie waiter, who said, of course you can sit there. In minutes I had a glass of vin and was perusing the menu. There were various formulas, but I knew what I wanted and it was not offered on them. Escargot, which were six succulent, already plucked out of their shells and in a garlicky, buttery, made in Paris heavenly sauce. The duck confit was utterly perfect, with comforting velvety smooth potatoes and a little glass of pureed vegs of peas, sweet red peppers and celeriac.

The young cute waiter who greeted me was in charge of the whole room!! He was literally flying around, but he never lost his cool, even with a table of 4 who were rather demanding, but who had to smile at his efforts. For me, it was a great meal and entertainment.

My bed felt really warm and welcoming. What a fabulous Paris Sunday!