Bamberg and Environs - 9 nights
 

Just back one week ago from a lovely trip to this area of Germany!
Thanks to all the Fodors input, we got to visit the less-commonly seen sights of the Vierzehnheiligen Basika above Bad Staffelstein, the Alte Anatomie Museum in Ingolstadt, the Albrecht Duerer house and the medieval dungeon-cells in Nuernberg. We became aware of, and visited, a Pentecost Fair (Pfingstdult) in Amberg (what fun!) and I finally tried (and liked) my first Rauchbier.

We had the best weather (70s and sunny) and our chosen FeWo in Bamberg was a two floor townhouse with loads of space and a very good price.
For our final two nights, we moved to Hotel Cristall in Frankfurt to explore that city as well. Highly recommended for price (45E per night), proximity to Bahnhof and quiet/clean rooms. We "learned our way" around Frankfurt in about 30 hours, seeing the Roemer/Dom/Staedelmueum/Judengasse Museum and more.
Details, and hopefully in time, photos, will follow!

Looking forward to the details. We have visited Bamberg and liked it. We have thought about spending more time in the area in the future.

Regards, Gary

I'd love to hear more about Bamberg and see photos. I've stayed at the National Hotel in Frankfurt - just on the other side of the train station. I'm making a note of the Cristall Hotel for the future since it's less expensive than the National. Did you have wifi in the room and was breakfast included?

"I'd love to hear more about Bamberg and see photos"

Same here. I would like details about your hotel. What is FeWo ? How much did you pay ?

Okay, I don't have my trip materials here at work, and I am a very-tech-unsavvy person, so photos may come sometime before the 4th of July (If I'm REALLY lucky!)...but here goes...

Left JFK on Singapore's double decker 380 Airbus, HOURS late for Frankfurt. Singapore's personnel and service were very nice-traditional-style asian outfits, hot cloths in economy (!), real silverware on meal trays, decent food choices, individual movie screens with a vast variety of movie choices, BUT since the 380 is SO large, it is perpetually late, both arriving and departing, as it is limited to certain runways. We taxi'd for HOURS before leaving!
Late morning arrival in Frankfurt, so we knew that we'd missed the train connection previously arranged with our landlady in Bamberg. I called her to inform of our later arrival in town for the key handover.

A FeWo is Ferienwohnung or self-catered vacation apartment. I have travelled this way for at least 16 years now. The majority of europeans also stay in FeWos for more room at a lower price, usually in a residential neighborhood, where one truly experiences living as a local. We grocery-shopped, recycled, visited our "local" bakery, spent evenings at our local beer gardens, etc.
I had investigated FeWo choices on the internet, after we chose Bamberg as our home base, and communicated with the host by email. Most town sites list the various Ferienwohnungen in the area with photos and contact information. We paid 65 Euro per night ("Pay 6 nights and the seventh is free" at our chosen site! Or 390 Euro for 7 nights, NO Endreinigung-final cleaning fee--which can be a killer). For this sum of approximately $520 split between two persons, we had a two floor townhouse with a large upper level bedroom, a second smaller bedroom on the ground floor, a spacious kitchen with microwave, dishwasher, coffee pot, fridge and usual cookware/cutlery, a very large living room with two leather sofas, a reading nook, ceramic stove and dining corner, in addition to a large bathroom with shower stall, separate soaking tub and clothes washer. Oh, and a private outdoor garden/terrace too.

Re: Hotel Cristall, there was a free logon for WIFI. Breakfast was not included, but could be purchased for 5 E, however, it didn't have the highest reviews on TripAdvisor, so we opted to go into the underground complex (under the Bahnhof) just a block away and purchase breakfast pastries and hot drinks at any of the multitudes of shops available.
More later...

Upon arrival to Bamberg, I had googled walking directions to our apt, and it was easily found. Weather sunny and mid-to-upper 70s. Passed the Spezial and Faessla Breweries on our 15 minute walk (future targets).Landlady's son met us for key handover and quick apt summary and payment. After briefly washing up, we headed out to the nearby grocery store (I had emailed the TI for this info in advance)for provision pickup. No fresh rolls at this time of the day (6pm), so a few slices of Bauernbrot would have to do. Yogurt, fresh pineapple, cheese and milk selected for my next few morning meals.
Well, what do you know? There is a Weinfest going on in the square just around the corner from us (Maxplatz) from 24-28 May!!! Yay!
After stowing our grocery purchases we headed back out to scope out the food stalls in this large square filled with wooden picnic tables and benches plus a main stage for nightly music.
I had a Pfannkuchen mit Spargeln und Schinken for 4,50E + a Bacchus Wein (6E included 2E glass deposit).
A flat bread type of 'pizza' with white sauce, fresh asparagus and ham + a semi-sweet wine. The band played retro '70s and '80s American hits!
A second glass of wine followed (Spaetburgunder)for 7E with a 2 E refund when the glass was returned. Then a currywuerst mit Broetchen (though the roll was saved for breakfast the next day).
Walked about town, (?)orienting and sight-seeing for another 90 minutes or so and got mightily lost (hey, no real map yet as the TI was already closed, 30 hours travel with a 45 minute nap AND two wines can cause a mind to fuzzy up a bit!)
Finally worked our way 'home' and flopped into bed, hardly unpacked, opened all the windows for a cool breeze.

Fewos are the only way to go!

did yours have WIFI?

5 of the last 7 international trips I have taken had the outgoing flight being 4 to 26 hours late. Makes it hard to plan a train ride after you arrive.

Leider, no WiFi in our apartment (sigh of consternation).
VERY difficult to get any free WiFi until Frankfurt.

We had saved the next day, Saturday, to truly explore our home town. After a satisfying breakfast at 'home', we consciously re-visited areas that we had muddled through last evening. Nice views from the MANY bridges, higher, lower, chain, etc. I live in a town with three rivers and many bridges, so this felt like a 'sister' city in Europe!
The painted Rathaus built on a man-made stake in the middle of the river was a true tourist draw (germans, we never heard english spoken). Petite Venice, the Old Crane, The old slaughterhouse (first clue: stone cow on edifice!), modern sculpture in hidden squares, then on to the Tourist Info for a 'proper' map. We opted against the BambergCard with its audiotour and museum passes as we just wanted to meander with no list of "must-sees," though we DID purchase the BierSchmeckerTour. For 20 Euro, one receives a rathe nice backpack (thought shoulder straps are not padded), a stone beer mug, several beer coasters from participating neighborhood brewereies, a map/description of said breweries, AND 5 vouchers for 1/2 liters of beers!!!
Next, we slowly picked our way UP to the 1000 year-old Dom, now with a very helpful map in hand.
Sunny and very warm, TG for the refreshing breeze.
A Domkonzert had closed the Dom until about 12:45, so a big crowd waited to get in. Finally, we surged forward...the crypts of holy imperial couple-Heinrich II and Kunigunde were neat. Soaring arches, the Bamberg Reiter (horseman) and carved wooden grotesques made for cool pictures. We opted not to do the Diocesan Museum at this time. Feet hurting, so we searched for a lunch spot 'up above' town.
How about the Neue Residenz with its Rosengarten?
A fine choice on the large outdoor terrace. A pair of Wurst with Brot and a tepid iced tea, then a Radler (half beer, half sprite) 12.30 E hit the spot!
Relaxed, regrouped and remedicated, we took in the views over the red-tiles city houses. We did not view the works of art within, but instead, went to the nearby Alte Hofhaltung, a medieval courtyard with half-timbered houses. We opted to visit the History Museum at 3 PM (closing 5 PM)-5 E entrance fee. Nice varied collection on the history/development of Bamberg, paintings, medieval coins, religious items, and a display of modern, digitally-altered mystical-type photos.
I especiallly enjoyed a selection of old photos detailing the wine-growers and garden/vegetable growers history. We left just at closing. Needed to relax again.
Well, whaddayaknow? Schlenkerla Brewery is nearby-home of the most famous of the Rauchbiere (smoked beers)! The cosy beer garten outside fit the bill. Started with a Rauchbier (2.50, but voucher from the beertour covered it), then on to a Rauchweizen (smoked wheat beer at 2.70- voucher valid)....
Add a Brotzeitteller -plate of cold-cuts and bread at 7.70 Euro, and I'm nearly in heaven! Dark wood and pink geranium window boxes are picturesque.
After leaving Schlenkerla, we went back to Maxplatz with its wine festival, found an empty table and chilled while we wrote in out journals. Thats when the Crepe stand called.
I had Nutella with almonds and crunchy sweetened walnuts for 2.50E whike listening to the band, now playing Beatles Hits!
Oh, I forgot, when we started out this morning, we ran into a huge weekly farmers market--Great! Such a beautiful variety of colors and so prettily arranged! Of couse, Spargel (aspargus), especially white, is the current star! A good day!

sooooo jealous.

all this and white asparagus too.

I've not made it to this area of Germany yet but it's climbing up the list of "musts" fast.

keep the TR coming, mokka!

Hey, Mokka, thanks for answering. Could you give a link of the FeWo you rented ? Or at least the website from where you did find it.

I would also like to know if you did rent a car or used public transport. If took any trains, how difficult was moving from Bamberg to other cities. I'm still wondering where we choose as a base in Franconia.

Great TR !

This is great, keep it coming. We're headed to Bamberg this fall.

lua:
You can start your accomodation search here:

http://www.bamberg.info/en/poi/touri...ormation-5019/
We stayed in Fewo Alte Stadtmauer

More to come...

http://www.ferienwohnung-alte-stadtmauer.de/

Go under Wohnungen and click on the red dots to see pics of the rooms!

Continuing... we did not rent a car at any point, instead used trains and a rare bus.
Sunday, May 27- destination Amberg. 19.40 E Roundtrip train ticket per person OR the Bayern Ticket for 29 E/2 persons (used the ticket machine as office not yet open this Sunday).
MANY young people in traditional dirndls and lederhosen, this being a holiday weekend (Pentecost) with a lot of festivals going on. Thirty minutes transition time in Nuernberg-we bought rolls for Monday breakfast.
Arrived Amber 11:42...sleeeepy town Amberg!
Found our way to Marktplatz with the picturesque gothic coral and white Rathaus and St. Martin's Church. Nice square with "jester at a famous wedding" fountain.
Asked what turned out to be an american dad visiting his daughter where the famous "Stadtbrille was ("I'm sorry, I don't speak german!!!") This is a building with two arches over the water. When the sun shines, the reflection looks like a pair of spectacles...thus, the name. Many phots from all angles along the water.We also saw some interrupted parts of the original double-walled city protection ring with gate(s). As we wandered about, more people appeared. Beautiful gray and white house with oriel window.
Next target was the Pentecost Fair on the edge of town. Walked a bit through a park-like setting to find it- Am Schanzl- (google-mapped walking directions from home)
How exciting--like a county fair with ferris wheel, rides, food stands, games and a Festzelt (large tent) where the food and beer was! We each had a Mass (liter) of Hefeweisse (7.50E)--Youza! I was thinking 'healthy' to balance out the massive beer (at a county fair?), so I ordered a salad with seasoned turkey strips--one of the most expensive food items on the menu at 8.90 E!!! What fun to people watch! Shopped the stalls a bitand bought nice ankle socks (the ones I brought from home were too thick). Oh, and a delicious chocolate banana! What a nice afternoon :)).
We watched dogs frolic in a man-made pond at the edge of an athletic field, while returning to the train station.
Back in Bamberg, we refreshed and went out for a light dinner.
This we found at an outdoor cafe on Obere Bruecke, on the far side of the Rathaus. Still feeling a bit health-conscious, I got a Salat Nizza (tuna) with Mineralwasser (11Euro).
Everyone wasout strolling and enjoying an evening Eis (ice cream). I was briefly tempted to try a place advertising Spargeleis (asparagus -flavored), but didn't after all!
But I did get a Kaesesahnekuchen (cheese flavored cake)at 2.20E to go, and enjoyed it 'back at the house' with hot chocolate!
Sorted out out travel info for Wuerzburg tomorrow...

We want photos, mokka!!! Get some technology going please!

Thanks for a great beginning! Please continue! And pictures please, please, please!

MY picture-maker person is on vacation until next week...sigh.
But please don't give upon me yet!
Monday, May 28-Pentecost Holiday here:
Some noisy revelers walking home late last night past the apartment (again!)Had a crusty roll, buttered and jammmed, then repeated with a slice of dense farmers bread for breakfast. And chocolate milk made with Sarotti mix :-))
Bought the Bayernticket again, (29E for 2) as it was a better bargain, to Wuerzburg.
Had a suboptimal map to work from again, but we managed to find Juliusspital and the river Main. We approached along the river promenade, passing the Alter Kranen, with nice views to the Alte Mainbruecke (old bridge erected 1473-1543) over the Main)and the Festung (fortress up above). A lot of people basking in the sunshine. The bridge is lines with statues of historically significant persons, primarily religious/popes.
We debated the half hour walk up to the fortess and agreed on lunch at Rathausplatz first.
I had a glass of local halbtrocken (semi-sweet) wine (3,70E) and a skillet of Gemueseroesti (flat potato shreds with vegetables and cheese on top) 11,80E.
I had some materials from home which noted a 3PM tour of the fortress IN ENGLISH on HOLIDAYS---YES! So we slowly crept our way up to the Marienburg Fortess, great views over the city and river unfolding.
After about 20-25 minutes, we closed in on the turrets, towers and entrance. Ticket for the tour in english 3,50E. The tour with commentary was nice, we got to see a few more interiors that otherwise would have been off-limits, including a well-house and chapel interior (3 decorated skulls below the altar-?)There was a group of U of Texas study abroad students on our small tour (newly arrived, they didn't feel ready for the german tour!)
Back into town, getting a bit tired. Walked to the Domplatz--Can you believe it? Dom St.Kilian is closed for renovation until Advent 2012!~
Wended our way over to the Weindorf (Wine village festival)on Obere and Untere Markt to check out the stands. Ultimately, L had a large pretzel sandwich with cheese/lettuce/tomato and I had Kartoffelpuffer over Salat (Potato pancakes) for 7E. And of course, a Bacchus halbtrocken wine! I chose to keep the small decorated glass mug and forego my 2E deposit! We sat with a group of older folk at a communal bench with space. After, saw the? Marienkaeppele with Riemenschneiders sandstone sculptures of Adam and Eve.
Then back to the train station to catch the 18:36 home, arriving 19:30.
I was eager to call home, as WiFi had been a big disappointment thus far-none found free anywhere! Sighted a phone 'booth' in the station which accepted credit cards (expensive, yes I know!) Spoke with mom for about 4 minutes and 3,70 Euro! We HAVE been able to text various family members back home for about 50 cents, so we weren't TOTALLY off the grid, but it was disappointing how very few occasions that free WiFi was to be had....

You should check libraries for free wifi or internet access.

Tuesday, 29 May: Nuernberg
Befor we caught the train, I ran up to our local bakery (Fuchs an der Hauptwachecke) and got a few fantabulous yeasty raisin rolls for breakfast (4 for 1.60E). On the way to the station, I mailed a few postcards at the Post (.75E per stamp, not as bad as Switzerland).
We caught the 10:33 with arrival in Nuernberg at 11:18, and easily located the large and airy TI just up the escalator from the Bahnhof. Puchased the same Laendeticket for 29 Euro/2. Saw an ALDI's grocery store on the main drag!
Walked down Koenigstrasse past Lorenzkirche to Museumsbruecke-many photos! River Pegnitz was not wide. Continued through the Hauptmarkt where the daily market stalls were in full swing! Purchased sweet cherries and sat to munch some at the Schoenner Brunnen (beautiful fountain- base encircled by protective grating).Located the Rathaus, but the next tour of the dungeons wasn't for a while, so we went onward to Albrecht Duerer's house. Beautiful area with covered city wall to walk for a bit. For 5 Euro we had a nenglish audioguide (self-guided) tour of the very modern (for his time) 3-level house with workshop, kitchen printing press and great views to a courtyard. On the top level were paintings from a school in Ukraine, where the art students re-interpreted many of Duerer's art masterpieces...some were QUITE GOOD and these children ranged in age from 9-17!!
Naturally, we visited the small Duerer shop, across the street where a few of my favorite paintings were purchased on economical postcards ;-).
We decided to 'do' lunch at St. Sebald church square, naturally outside, as the weather remained perfect. I got Stadtwurst, Schwarzbrot and Kartoffelsalat with a large Mineralwasser, which was, for the first and only time during this trip, served with ICE (10.45E)!! Refreshing!!!
Walked over to the Rathaus where a few others had gathered for a 3 PM tour of the Lochgefaengnisse (dungeons).
Tour in german, but a little written pamphlet adds to it in english (3,50 E entrance). Tour was really interesting, with several original holding cells for those prisoners awaiting trial OR in custody for pending execution. Room of implements and blacksmiths tools....Guards quarters, etc
After this, we worked our way back to the Bahnhof, stopping briefly at the re-created (and IMO tourity) Handwerkerhof complex to window shop a bit. Dark clouds moved in and the lightest of sprinkles. Home by 17:25.
Back in Bamberg, we explored the large grocery store across from the RR, Tegut. We stocked up on supplies and food-based gifts, and checked out the PET plastic bottle recycling machine--bottles in, money out (refund of deposit). Quick anxiety as L. could not find her wallet, but turns out it was left at the packing area and the clerk had it safely behind the counter-crisi averted!
Unloade our groceries at 'home', then went back out for a drink-hey we still had those beer vouchers to use!
Tonight, we tried Spezial Brewery. Sat outside in their cosy Biergarten and had a Rauchbier-lighter than Schlenkerla's.
Then,

then, you hit the 'submit' button too soon!

Salat mit Kaese und Schinken (ham & cheese) 7,80E, while L. had some crispy Kartoffelpuffer mit Aepfelmus (potato pancakes with applesauce)--dad's favorite, I'm sure he was nodding in approval from heaven!
Neatly trimmed window boxes with pink geraniums abound. Black bird decoys help to keep the pigeeons away.
After a slow walk home, we explored a new area, thinking that it might connect with 'our' street, but no such luck, I savored my Columbustorte (purchased for take-out) with hot chocolate..at home...mmmmm.
I am not a huge coffee-drinker, but I HAVE been craving a cup. There is a nice McCafe at the train station. Dare I in the morning?

The next day, May 30 was devoted to Ingolstadt.
This was one of our longer commutes, leaving at 9:33 and arriving at Ingolstadt 11:50 (changing once again in Nuernberg with a 50 minute layover).
We have been limiting our "must-see" sights in each town to 2-3 choices, and letting serendipity govern the rest, so that we can return to our hometown a bit earlier in the evenings to enjoy Bamberg. This was working well.
Did purchase a "large" coffee at McCafe (about 10 ozs-wondered how small a small one was!)--very strong and very hot, freshly brewed, not outstanding. Though this mini-McD was nice--leather couchettes, modular tables, bright and airy, menu heavy on the desserts (not seen in the US).
In Nuernberg, train area I found a large bookstore, where we browsed and I purchased a couple of magnets, and scouted out the canvas shopping bags for gifts. Saw an Internet Cafe upstairs,open 24/7, charged 15 minutes/1E, but no WiFi.

Detrained at Ingolstadt Nord as it looked closer to the Zentrum on my little map. It was on the edge of the city and took a little patience to get oriented. Followed the map into the pedestrian district with many shops and outdoor cafes lining Ludwigstrasse. Lit a candle at the Liebfrauenmuenster.
Continued on toward the Kreuztor (towngate), sat on a bench and ate our picnic lunches. After our break, we continued to the Alte Anatomie (old anatomy faculty building, now a museum of medical history). Tickets were 5E, self-guided, a booklet in english. Spent over an hour with various old medical displays (the author of Frankenstein, Mary Shelley, had her professor visit here as his inspiration for his experiments with life-creation). But overall, I liked the Zurich Museum of Medical History much more.
Our next target was the Asamkirche. Bright coral color with Baroque architecture. Phenomenal ceiling fresco by Cosmos Asam and the most valuable monstance in the world, weighing 18 kgs!
On the way back to the train, we indulged in Eis- white chocolate for me (1E), then cooled our heels in a little parklet eating lunch's sweet cherries and pit-spitting (no other people around to witness!)
We have 2 Bierschmecker Tour vouchers left, so we'll have to make a concerted effort to consume beer in town tonight ;-).
After freshening up at the apt, we stopped at out local grocery for Mineralwasser and a Quinoa Muesli mix for the US.
Then we set our sights on the Faessla Brewery. Originally, we sat in the courtyard, but when another patron pointed out that it was self-service only out there, we moved into the pub. We sat at the same table as a nice, middle-aged german couple, also on vacation. We asked for Rauchbier, and the waitress sniffed indignantly (auf deutsch) "We don't brew smoke beer here. Pils!" So okay, Pils it is! My dinner was a traditional Schnitzel mit Pommes Frites und Salatbeilage (8E).
Yum! Went on to order a second beer, a darker Zwergla,as the dwarf is this brewery's motif. L. had spaghetti in cream sauce with Spargel (asparagus). Did I mention that she is vegetarian? In Germany? With some work, it can be done.
Pleasant cozy ambience with mostly "locals."
An easy walk home. Tomorrow, we are planning a half-day excursion to Vierzehnheiligen Basilika. Early train to Bad Staffelstein, then a MOBI-2 Bus at 9:04--the only bus in the morning (no pressure).

I'm feeling a little unloved...?
Thursday May 31st--
Had breakfast of poppyseed crumb cake and milk. Packed a lunch. Took another stack of papers out to 'our' blue recycling bin. Caught the 8:35 train to Bad Staffelsten (11E Roundtrip). Deserted and forlorn stretch of tracks with a closed-up train building and a ticket machine :-(. Found our bus shelter 'Mobi-2' and the schedule was the same as that which I had pulled off the internet. I had originally considered walking either UP to the basilica or back DOWN to the town, but got varying information about the length of the hike and the ease of directions so we opted for the roundtrip bus. The driver arrived (and departed) before 9:04, but assured us that he was going to Vierzehnheiligen Parkplatz.
Cost 2,30E one way. We wended slowly through the villages of Lichtenfels, Wolfsdorf and Grundfeld. The driver pulled up to a large parking lot far below VH, and we walked a moderate uphill grade for about another half mile, as the impressive basilica slowly unfolded before us. It was quite warm at this hour already and I was glad that we had opted for a morning excursion.
Souvenir stalls (below the church) were just setting up at 9:20. We explored the Church of the 14 Holy Helpers for more than an hour. Very ornate marble and gold statues of the 14, colorful frescoes and side altars told the story of a vision which appeared to a young german shepherd in 1445, wherein the christ child instructed him to build a church at this site dedicated to these saints. The original chapel burned in the 1500's and again during the 30 years war. The current incarnation dates ot 1743-1772 with Balthasar Neumann as architect.
There was a small room off to the side with testimonials of healings through the centuries (paintings and needleworks), and a book where the visitor's intentions could be written.
We found a small cemetary behind, then...Brauerei Trunk, brewing since 1803.
There were picnic tables set up outside. We purchased 2 Bioweizen or organic wheat beers (4,60 each but 2,50 of it was returned as the glass deposit). Set up on the picnic benches and enjoyed our packed lunches. My sandwich of cheese and Bauernschinken went well with the drink!
Next, we explored the souvenir stalls below the church and purchased a St. Christopher keychain or two.

I'd like to know more about Durer's house. Were any of his wood cuts on display? I saw a small exhibition of his works on Malta and loved them - there was so much detail.

How did you decide to visit this area and the places you choose. It seems off the beaten track (which I love).

No, there were no original Duerer works on display. This was his 'real' house where he lived for more than a decade. The front desk said that much of the furniture/chandelier/kitchen privy/printing press were original though.

This was my 12th trip to Germany &/or Switzerland, so I have already seen most of the tourist first-time hot spots (though some WERE decades ago in high school ;-).
I choose an area to delve deeeply into, then EXHAUSTIVELY research for months in advance, then post questions to the natives here on Fodor's. To her credit, my friend L. had chosen Nuernberg and Duerer as her must-sees on this trip. I found out about the dungeon cells and we agreed that they would be worth a look-see.
I do have my degree in German, so we can get around okay, though I work in Medicine, and that was the impetus for the Medical Museum(s).

I am currently gearing up for my next trip--hopefully this October--if not, then May 2013, and have narrowed down my choice home base to either Stans (went up the Stanserhorn as a day trip 2 years ago), Altdorf (Wilhelm Tell) or Brunnen (for the history).
Any of these places are within 45 minutes of Luzern (which hosts a famous Fall Festival on the river banks), so we/I can get a dose of "big-city" culture as needed as well!
Economically, these smaller towns save a good bit of money and provide a truer european experience IMHO.

Great trip report! I love the image of sitting in the park and spitting cherry pits. I love sitting on my deck and doing the same. It always feels very naughty. (I shared a house for a short time with another single gal--financially a good plan but otherwise... She got really angry one day when she caught me sitting on the back steps and spitting pits into the garden. It would make ants and baby trees, she said. I apologized and was appropriately chastened, but not enough to quit doing it when I thought I wouldn't get caught.)

The souvenir stalls all had the same assortment of rosaries, candles and saint-inspired keychains or medals.
Dutifully, we headed back down to the Parkplatz as there were only 2 'Mobi-2' Bus departures back to Bad Staffelstein in the afternoon--13:21 and 16:21.
We walked along accompanied by the pungent reality of cows in the neighboring fields. Double-checked the bus schedule and posted ourselves on a low wooden railing. Along came a group of high school kids, maybe 7, and their professor. I guessed they had been on a field trip of sorts to the VH Basilika.
13:21 came and went....13:30 passed...what? (This is why I never trust buses, somethng amiss always seems to happen).
I asked the professor, and he said yes, they were also waiting for the bus to Bad S. A blue mini-van with a travel agency logo came up the hill, and I stood alert, ready to hop aboard if the school kids did so. The professor and the driver exchanged a few words and the driver left. Obviously, this was not the bus.
13:45 and the tallest and lankiest of the teenages whipped out his cell and started calling #s on the bus schedule...no answer. Professor found another number at the actual bus shelter...whhaatt?? They informed him that the blue mini-van had replaced the 'Mobi2' Bus!!!! The next bus to Bad S. would be at 16:21, more than 2 1/2 hours from now!!!
This could not do! So professor and teens trudged to a small kiosk nearby selling quick snacks and drinks to learn how long a trek back to Bad S. would take....one solid hour they were informed!
I asked if we could tag along, as I had no idea how to get back. Well I got my secret wish--walking one way or the other! (Note to self: be careful what you wish for!)
Fot the next hour plus, we trudged along with 7 silly teens (they really weren't bad at all) and a radio, plus the professor.I was NOt letting him get out of my sight! A pleasant but LONG walk through fields of wheat, corn, and poppies along the Pilgerweg (Pilgrims Path), with faded tall concrete pillars bearing religious motifs, some dating to the 1700s, along the way. We passed farmhouses advertising fresh eggs for sale...then we worked our way through the hamlets of Grundfeld and Wolfsdorf (more chickens in the backyards and doves too)to Bad S.
There was a whole delightful pedestrian section of cafes, small shops and gardens which would have invited us to linger on another day. Who knew? From the derelict Bahnhof there were no signs pointing to the DorfZentrum....But our feets were really singing the blues and I still wasn't sure how close the trains were, let alone the timing of the next one.
The little band of guides trudged ahead of us, pointing out the Bahnhof, and we missed our train, pulling out, by about 30 seconds!
No matter, we only had to wait 30 minutes for the next one.
The whole walk took about 70 minutes and covered 4-5 kmns.
I definitely earned a cake for tonight!

Back in Bamberg, we stopped at our local bakery (Fuchs=fox), where I purchased 1 Stueck Kaesekuchen for tonight's treat.

I walked to our closest (small) grocery to check whether they featured a PET plastic recycling machine (we had accumulated quite a collection of bottles, and landlady requested that all bottles be cleared out of the apt at departure), but no such luck. So instead I bought a small rose wine in the classic Bocksbeutel shape (ever mindful of my-growing-heavier suitcase!)
Then we strolled out to the Rathaus area in search of a nice "Farewell to Bamberg" dinner, since we leave in the am for Frankfurt.
Found a nice cafe with covered outdoor seating across from Kaethe Wollfahrt's Christmas store (a Rothenburg chain, immensely popular with americans- I give it the evil eye).
I had a typical frankische spezialitaet--Schweinhax mit Rauchbiersosse--or pork knuckle with smoked-beer gravy, Knoedel -or large dumpling, and of course, the ubiquitous Sauerkraut. L. had a roasted vegetable pot with cheese (looked quite good). We both started with Spargelcremesuppe..mmmmm.
Mine was a large hunk of knuckle bone with a little bit'o' meat attached that one had to really work for! Wouldn't pursue it again, but glad that I tried it! Had two glasses of Bacchus halbtocken (semisweet), and after dinner, a delectable french coffee (best of the trip)! Laurie paid for my meal in thanks for all the planning. Thanks L! Both meals were 48,50 E even with all the addd-ons!
During our meal it began to rain lightly, but we were fully covered by the large umbrella, so it didn't disturb us in the least. By the time we finished our meal, the rain had ended :-).
Back in our apt, on this last night, we FINALLY turned the TV on! We just never had time on the other days... No english programming, but there was an american movie with Sandra Bullock and Hugh Grant. Best of all was a German Funniest Videos program!
It rained more heavily after we were in for the night, a pleasant, comforting sound.
We leave for Frankfurt at 11:25 tomorrow, so we packed a bit.
FeWo asks departure by 10 am, not sure how strict that policy is...

It's a new week and photos were promised!!

Up early to get my suitcase closed and to purchase last few items from bakery.Did perfunctory sweep clean of apt. Doorbell rang, promptly at 10 am :0! Okay, we were 95% ready!
Housekeeper started cleaning upstairs and we soon vacated our 'home.' Much cooler this am, maybe low 60s.

On a whim, we went over to a nearby jewelry store as we had time (on the way to the Bahnhof, rolling our luggage and bag 'o' recycling bottles--I'm sure the salespeople grimaced a little when we entered the store ;-). They had a nice display of Bernstein (amber) jewelry. We each bought a different bracelet to remember Bamberg! (Now the jewelry salespeople were thinking a little better of itinerant americans rolling their suitcases and recycling down the street!)
We cashed in the plastic bottles at a small grocery on the main street and bought a Q-Durch-Land Ticket (48E for two persons) to Frankfurt. No problems with crowded trains or luggage transfer (though my bag HAD gained several pounds...uummmphh!).
In Frankfurt, as the Hotel had directed, we exited through the Nordausgang, asked one business person, and walked the ONE block to the (white) Hotel Kristall. Our two nights here had already been paid for through the www.hrs site.
Our room faced the side of the train station with the police department, but was incredibly quiet, with totally light-clocking curtains AND we had AC and WiFi!
After freshening up, we went out to oreint ourselves, the goal being Roemer/Old town Square. A LOT of construction in this city. We walked along the river until Roemer (originally constructed 15th century, heavily damaged March 1944 and rebuilt).Saw the fountain of justice...a lot of tourists milling about. Perused cafes until one with a decent vegetarian option was found.
We ate directly on the square at zum Schwarzen Stern (at the Black Star).
I had eggs and boiled potatoes in the famous 'green suace' at 9,90 E + a Kutscher Altbier (3,50E).
Frankfurt green sauce is a cold herb sauce made with 7 herbs, sour cream and/or plain yogurt, oil, vinegar. it is traditionally served with parslied potatoes and hard boiled eggs....yummm. Guess what I'll be making for the 4th of July?! The waiter was trying to explain the list of seven herbs in german, but I only recognized 2 or 3 of them...thats what the internet is for!

Meeting with my back from vacation tekkie Wednesday night...hoping photos on board by Saturday am (Hey, I DID estimate the 4th of July! I (humbly) think the photos are worth stopping back for ;-)

Before our meal, we had stopped to investigate the old Nikolaikirche, an early gothic church from the middle of the 12th Century. After dinner, we found the Dom (Kaiserdom St. Bartholomaeus), with its unprotected archeological ruins and the controversial site of new governmental construction.
We walked in the direction of the Judengasse Museum to find it for tomorrow, as well as the Staedelmuseum. To cross the streets near the train station, you have to go underground, where a wealth of shops entice. Breakfast tomorrow may likely be at the croissant shop!
Note: We saw an "Occupy Wallstreet" type of encampment in town as well, with tents and political slogans, etc, occupying an entire city block!
Tomorrow, we plan the day mainly visiting the Staedel, with a side of the jewish museum.

mokka - i've been travelling with you, but silently - great report about an area i'd love to visit.

might i very respectfully make a suggestion that might make your report easier to read? when you insert a paragraph, could you inset an extra line as well? it's amazing what an affect it has on the legibility of a report.

annhig...duly noted!
More about out FINAL day in Germany tomorrow!

Saturday, June 2--our last day.
Despite the hotel's proximity to the Bahnhof, our room was nicely quiet with room-darkening curtains.
The thin feather comforter was nice in the cool AC.
Showered and readied in the tiny bathroom, then down to the underground shops for a Milchkaffee and a chocolate croissant...mmmm.

We stopped in the train TI for a more detailed map. Chilly out this am--high 50's. We walked via the pedestrian bridge Holbeinsteg to the Staedelmuseum. 12 Euro entrance. Four levels, starting with the "Old Masters" on top. We split up to pursue our individual interests and met up again 2 1/2 hours later. In retrospect, I spent a little too much time on the top level, as I liked the next floor with artists from about 1780 and onwards better. I was more familiar with (and appreciative of) Monet, Manet, Munch, Beckmann, etc. Each descending level became more "modern". Andy Warhol's depiction of Goethe was on the bottom level (neat, as I come from Pittsburgh, home of Andy Warhola!) Otherwise, most of the modern selections just didn't tickle me that much.

We had read that the museum cafe was very nice, so we had lunch there (cafeteria style). Nice greek salad and a bottle of Bionade, Holunder --elderberry carbonated pop, a very reasonable 8,20 E.
While L. ran to see 'just a few more' things, I shopped in the very large gift shop. I bought a few of my favorite works on postcards and an endearing magnet of "Liegender Hund im Schnee" by Marc, as I Love dogs! ('Lying dog in the snow' painted in blues, whites and yellows).

At long last we left and walked along the treed Sachsenhaeuser Ufer (riverbank) to the Alter Bruecke, stopping to watch swans and geese in the water below.
We found the Judengasse Museum (2E entrance), with some original stone foundations of the Jewish Quarter, dating to the 17th century. Info boards detailed the continuing persecution of Jews in Frankfurt through the centuries. An attached display focused on individual experiences of persons during WWII. While I found it very compeling, it was entirely in german, so much was lost on L. The nearby ancient jewish cemetary, which one can only peer at through a gate was said to be fully closed by the museum staff, this being a Saturday.

Wow, can feet really hurt this much from so many hours of standing?
We worked our way back to the Roemerplatz for an afternoon snack, settling on Handkaes mit Musik (2 discs of firm cheese in vinegar + oil, covered in chopped onion and sprinkled with caraway seed), served with dense farmers bread 'n' butter and a dark wheat beer (9,50E). A different experience!
While eating, there was a demonstration of a large group of middle eastern persons, chanting with a megaphone for an hour or so. I couldn't identify their flag-tricolor-of green/ornage and white. Later we heard on TV that Mubarik had been sentenced to life in prison that day, so maybe it was a reaction to this ruling?

We meandered through new squares and MyZeil shopping district while trying to get back to our quarters. We found ourselves on Taunuasstrasse and the district got a tad raunchier with SexShops and loitering men, so we got back over onto the more acceptable Kaiserstrasse, where we breathed a little more freely!
After a brief rest at the hotel, we were NOT up for a walk of any length for dinner. We scoped out an Italian place across from the hotel and had dinner there (Punto Pasta). I had linguini with salmon in cream sauce and a Radler (13 E), then a nice Milchkaffee (2,80E).

The chatty young waiter (who hopes to visit America for the first time over Christmas) was very interested in why L. was writing (we generally keep tabs of the meal costs, so that when the server comes with the bill, we are prepared for the "right" amount of small tip). I told him that L was a journalist--and his eyes grew wide. He (at first) assumed that she was a food critic, and he hurriedly demanded to know whether she was writing for an american or german paper. We straightened it out and laughed!
BTW, the Radler and Kaffee were excellent!

Back at Hotel Kristall, the night evaporated as we packed and got ready for our 6 am train to the airport :-((

A lot of new towns experienced in this trip, and the carnival in Amberg was a real highlight! The wine festival in our hometown was a nice unexpected treat.

I feel like kid that waited for hours in the hot sun to finally get on an amusement ride...and then its over so fast!
I'm whining "Can we do it AGAIN? Huh, can we?"

Mokka -great report - and so well laid out! honestly, it does make a huge difference to reading comfort.

thanks for sharing your trip with us - some great details that i know I'll come back to when I get round to visiting this area.

Am praying that this works:
For photos, sit back with a glass of wine and enjoy!

http://rachelsgermany2012.shutterfly.com/

Okay, for a first try, not bad.
Not in a nice cohesive order, nor turned, but still...hope you enjoy!

OMG - mokka has found the enter key and a photo site!! Congrats! I've only looked at a few so far (my boss is questioning why I'm lying on my desk (the answer is to look at some of mokka's photos!!).

Now I want to go to Bamberg and environs.

BTW - did you look at my photos? There's a Bamberg girl statue in Poznan because lots of folks from Bamberg settled there.