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-   -   Back From Two Weeks in Provence - Report (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/back-from-two-weeks-in-provence-report-434296/)

amelia May 23rd, 2004 04:04 PM

This is such a dear, sweet trip report. I think many of us would interview to be your next travel companion--you seem to appreciate all that is good and willing to discount the bad. Great travel manners!

grandmere May 23rd, 2004 05:20 PM

Thank you for a wonderful report; it brought back happy memories of the area, and certainly stirs thoughts of planning another trip! And as others have mentioned, how good that une femme d'un certain age is able to do this kind of trip solo!

cigalechanta May 23rd, 2004 05:48 PM

grandmere, You KNOW I agree with you.
Question: Someone posted Mme Donzé sold the Mas. True? No more madam artichaut nor persil?

elle May 23rd, 2004 06:30 PM


Lovely report! I love the thought of having an oval room!

You visited some of our favorite places (we have stayed at L'Eveche).
We fell in love with Uzes and even though we were there for three days, still didn't feel it was long enough. Not that there is that much to "see", exactly, but it appealed to me as a place where I would enjoy just hanging out and soaking up the atmosphere.

I had a similar reaction to Aigues Mortes. I think I read some posts where people were complaining about Carcassone being too touristy and saying that they preferred Aigues Mortes. As dreadful as Carcassone is, I didn't find Aigues Mortes much better, although I did meet a lovely poodle there :).

We loved Roussillon too, and fwiw, Seguret was deserted when we were there, too!

We really liked L'Eveche and the Verdiers. We had the yellow room, which had belonged to one of their sons and still had his science fiction books in it, which amused my sci-fi-loving husband. The bathroom was enormous and we took long, luxurious baths just about every day! I loved having breakfast on the terrace, overlooking the town. The older son was very helpful and gave us a ride down to our car on the last day. He also gave us some good recommendations of wineries.

Thank you for a vicarious visit.

grandmere May 24th, 2004 04:58 AM

Cigale, I read that here,too, re Mme Donze and also wonder if it's true? Maybe someone will visit the Mas and let us know!

JoeG May 24th, 2004 07:44 AM

Sue4,

Wow! I can't believe how much ground you covered. I suppose that it is easier to travel alone, every decision doesn't require discussion. Still, you are to be congratulated for taking on such a well crafted trip alone.

We did find the provencebyways book helpful. I believe that couple has since sold their apartment.

Also, I understand your comments about the French drivers. However, all they want to do is pass (overtake). There's no hostility, no giving the finger, etc.

Too bad about the silly schoolboy incident in Arles. It sounds like you handled that well.

I'd say you did an awesome job of "doing" Provence.

JoeG

ita May 24th, 2004 09:15 AM

The apartment was bought by the O'neals who own the upper apartment. We are staying there for a week in October. I will let you know how it is. Thank you for this wonderful report. It will certainly help us. I will try to do the same when I return from my trip. This time I am determined to keep a journal.

NJgirl626 May 26th, 2004 10:34 AM

Thank you Sue for such splendid reporting. I've read guide books with a lot less info than what you included! We will be in Provence the first 2 weeks of July and one of my biggest concerns is the availability of parking( I know, I obsess about odd things) Do you have any suggestions(towns to avoid with the car, for example) or timing hints?

Underhill May 26th, 2004 01:49 PM

Most of the larger towns in Provence (Orange, Nimes, Avignon, Nice) have underground parking near major sights. The one exception, I think, is Arles, where the large garage is off on the side where the big Saturday market takes place. However, right off the road around the Roman arena is a regular parking lot; it's just up in front of the church.

St-Rémy has a good parking lot near the church, and even the small Luberon villages have parking areas in their centers. Les Baux has a long lot as you go up to the entrance, along with another farther down. The Pont du Gard now has a huge lot that rather takes the edge off the experience, IMO.

The one exception to all this parking largesse is Aix, which is a nightmare, especially on market days. All you can do is hope your parking karma is good.

If you want to know about specific towns, just ask. In general, you will find parking tightest on market days.


SalB May 26th, 2004 04:20 PM

This was a wonderful report. Thank you so much for sharing it with us. It brought back so many wonderful memories.

We were at Abbey de Silvercane once when a touring choir gathered and burst into song. It was a lovely moment.

Again, thank you. ((@))

cigalechanta May 26th, 2004 04:31 PM

Thanks again Sue. About the Mas de Peint; yes we liked it very much. I had read about it in a French Magazine and it's very close to a restaurant I like, "Chez Juju"in Beaudec.

NJgirl626 May 26th, 2004 06:20 PM

Thanks Underhill for easing my parking obssessed mind. You seem to have a wealth of useful information always at the ready.

ita May 28th, 2004 09:26 AM

I was also going to skip the Camarague, now you have me interested. I think what turned me off is that I read there were mosquitos there. Is this true?

cigalechanta May 28th, 2004 09:32 AM

I have been many times to the Camargue but never saw the problem and I have read about it. Maybe it's bad in certain areas. Maybe PB who lives in Provence knows?

cigalechanta May 28th, 2004 09:35 AM

seeing all those white horses racing in a group is very exciting to me (and the black bulls.) There are platforms along the road to watch the pink flamingos.
There is a bird sanctuary for bird watchers and there are lots of places you can have a horse for riding.

SuzieC May 28th, 2004 09:53 AM

GEEEEEEEEEEZ-Loueeeeeez... you are my hero! Bravo! I also am of a "certain age"...and the thought of driving/navigating alone has rumbled about my head and I get fraidy-cat. All the worse for me because I am aware of what I am missing here during my "ahem, youth". And here you are...with this lovely report...and maybe, just maybe... I could do this!
Always wanted to see Provence (well mostly eat and drink rose's), but the driving thing...well... maybe?
Oy...what a therapist would be asking!!

uhoh_busted May 28th, 2004 11:34 AM

WONDERFUL report! I'm so glad you enjoyed Marie-Chantal's beautiful B&B as much as we did! (That was "our" room too.) Having breakfast in that garden with the roses blooming and bees humming and birds singing -- also in May -- is the exact memory I will always get when someone mentions Provence. And driving down that lovely road with the plane trees on either side toward St Remy --- well that sure is a "we're not in Kansas anymore Toto" moment too.

Sue4 May 28th, 2004 06:04 PM

NJGirl, I was also obsessively worried about parking - but didn't really have any problems. Market days could possibly be a problem, though. I got to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue before 10:00, and found parking easily. Also, driving through Arles on a Saturday morning was a little "iffy"! It was market day, and I was on my way to the Camargue, and of course, my "mapped out route" was all wrong,as the market messed it up.
Anyway, I managed to get out of Arles and on the way to the Camargue OK. In fact, I got lost fairly often on this trip, but it isn't difficult to get back on track.

SuzieC, I'm absolutely terrible with directions,etc. and can honestly say,without reservation, "If I could do this, anyone can!"

Ita, there were no mosquitoes that day I was in the Camargue - maybe there would be in the summer.

UhOhBusted, your description of Marie-Chantal's B&B in your wonderful trip report was the main reason I chose it!
Thanks!

SalB May 28th, 2004 08:46 PM

We've been to the Camargue several times in the summer, walked all the trails at the Parc Ornithologique and never seen a mosquito.

I read someplace that the government got rid of them when they decided to develop the southern coast. Don't know if it's true or not, but we honestly didn't see any . . . and mosquitos LOVE me.
((@))

NJgirl626 May 29th, 2004 07:22 AM

Sue4, I'm curious to know what map you used. Michelin, perchance? That's good to know about factoring in closed streets for market day. I found a website that listed the days of all the market days for the towns of Provence which I will definitely be printing out and bringing. Just out of idle curiousity, where are you going for your next trip?


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