Dejais: Scarmoza is a semi-soft white cheese, a little like mozzarella that when you grill it, it stays together and oozes every so slightly when you cut into it. It's amazingly good. Volpetti is open Mon. Wed-Sat. 8 am - 2:00 pm and 5-8:15 pm. It's very easy to find as it is right on Via Marmorata, 47. If you are coming from Trastevere, just cross the bridge at the Porta Portese Market, Ponte Sublicio, this will put you right on Marmorata and then it's about 5-6 blocks down on the right. When you buy Scarmoza there, it comes in this huge, twisted sort of thing and they cut a hunk of it off - it's quite bizarre looking, but don't let that put you off. BTW,, they vacuum pack the cheese and I believe I read they will even ship things home for you.

So, continuing my novella -- S knocked on my door at a little after 6:00 to invite me to her apt for a glass of wine. Apparently a woman who had stayed in the little apt has become very good friends w/S and she and her husband were in Rome and they were at her apt. for dinner. S and her husband G, who is an artist, have a beautiful apt., his paintings cover the walls, a lovely tiled kitchen with a little balcony where he grows herbs and flowers. G does not speak English, but between their guests, who were American and myself with S's help translating, we all got along great. S served olives, bread, salami, fresh mozzarella and her guests had brought her a nice pinot noir from CA., which we shared. What a treat for me - I was feeling like I lived there and was just visiting neighbors. They invited me to stay for dinner, but I didn't want to intrude on their visit, so I ventured out to find a place to eat. After walking around replaying the evening in my mind and how special it was, I decided to just buy a bottle of wine and "eat in". I caught up on my journal, listened to a CD my son had given me for the trip - Dido - Life For Rent - not Italian, but so perfect for that evening.

S knocked on my door the next morning and asked if I wanted to get coffee. On the way she had to find a place that would fix her bicycle. S is 65 and rides her bike everywhere. After stopping at a couple of motorcyle repair shops, she was directed to this place - looked like a little store from the front. We walked in and down a long narrow corridor which opened up into a large room where two guys were working on motorcycles, one of which was running. I couldn't believe they were working in there with all those fumes!! I thought for sure the guy was telling S no he couldn't fix it - they went back forth, hands gesturing, but she parked the bike and said let's go. I asked her if he was going to fix it and she said, maybe, if he has time, but probably not, but maybe, she said she wouldn't be mad if he didn't, but she was really hoping he would.!!??? Only in Rome. We had coffee in a little sidewalk cafe in P. Cosimato. I remember from last fall that there was a great open air market here, but it looked to be under construction now. I asked her if it would be open in the fall when I returned and she said, oh, no it was going to take at least a year! Things move in a different pace here. We had a wonderful leisurely time, she chatting with people passing by, she introducing me to them, one an artist who invited me to see her studio when I returned. S told me all about her life, her son and family, how she described herself as a radical feminist and if people didn't like it, so what. She is wonderful. She took me to Bibli, a bookstore which from the doorway seems small, but hidden inside are several small rooms lined with books, a cafeteria/coffee shop and the aroma of espresso and fresh pastries gave the whole place a very comfy, homey feel. There was a large room with chairs set up. S said they do book presenations, poetry readings, public discussions, jazz and chamber music in there. I will definitely return to Bibli when I have more time to linger. It's on Via dei Fienaroli, a small street with little traffic. Further along this street at 30A is Il Boom, she said it was a very good restaurant, which is very popular with the locals and an interesting decor and mix of people. It looks like a good place to go with friends and I'm putting it on my list for this fall.

My boss is calling, but I will wrap this up soon.

HI Barb! I found this on the internet:

It looks like we can order from Volpetti from home!

http://www.fooditaly.com/chisiamo.asp?idc=11

It's so much fun reading your report and Seaurchin's and Massagediva's - it seems we were all in and around Trastevere in Jan/Feb/Mar.

We also visited Volpetti in Testaccio (and ate at their restaurant) and the market - following is a link to our blog with some pictures of both - not much commentary as we've been too busy since returning home to update it but some fun pictures

http://lizandrichardinrome.blogspot.com/

Re Bibli - my understanding is that there are concerts every Saturday evening at 9pm - might want to double check that though.

Does Bibli have internet access computers?

Also the market that is normally at P. Cosimato has relocated to Via Trastevere - across the street and a little down from Oviesse/Standa.

That is so cool about Volpetti - thanks SU - I'll have to check that out for sure. I didn't notice any internet computers while I was there, but it's a big place once you get inside, so it's possible. I just like the feel in there. They had a huge bulletin board which would be fun to peruse. Did you feel self-conscience taking pixs at the Testaccio market? Did you feel like the only tourist there? I loved it and will go back again when I don't have 20 lbs of cheese with me.

We've mostly gotten over the feeling self conscious about taking pictures.....anywhere! (as our blog attests to!)

Actually at the Testaccio market most of the vendors were trying to get "in" the pictures! It was very funny!

I would say we were pretty much the only tourists there - and that's what I loved about it......we bought little clams and wonderful cleaned anchovies there - had a feast that night! The vendor we bought the clams from gave us the anchovies as a bonus.....they were all very kind.

That's great they didn't mind - I'll go back in the fall for sure. It must have been so nice for you staying that long and being able to prepare meals with all that luscious variety of food.

In conclusion: After S and I said goodbye and promising to say a final goodbye to S & G later than night, I headed off to the last day shopping for the kids back home. I am not a shopper, so this is really a chore for me and over the years, is becoming more so - I tell them each time, no shopping this trip, but I always manage to buy a few little things. SU had shown me a shop with beautiful Murano glass beads, so I bought a few trinkets there, some lovely scarves at a little shop not far from Pantheon and a cute t-shirt for my granddaughter that says Ciao Bella, I know cheesy, but she will love it. My best purchase was in a little shop not far from my apt. Polvere di tempo, Via del Moro, 59. He makes beautiful little sun dials compasses and his workmanship is lovely, plus he is a really nice guy. I bought a tiny little compass on a leather string for my grandson to wear as a necklace. He asked who it was for and I told him my grandson's name - well he wrapped it and melted hot wax on the closure and stamped it with a "D". Perfect gift.

After packing up - why is so much harder to pack when leaving Italy than when leaving home - I even had to unzip the 2" expansion and I really didn't buy much! I decided to return to Aristocampo for my last dinner. It was a good choice - I had a gigantic perfectly done steak with roast potatoes and grilled veg. and 1/2 ltr. vino - 25€ So sad to be sitting there on my last night, but I knew I would be returning in six months, so I took solace in that.

Said my goodbyes to S&G promising to email and write. So, my final thoughts:

I loved Trastevere and Roma, of course. I've just been soaking it all up, it is in my soul and in my heart. I cry, I laugh, I am excited and I am tired, I am overwhelmed at times and at times my senses are in overload. Coming here solo is always a challenge but I prefer because I don't have to explain or justify the complexities to someone who cannot accept everything Rome has to offer. It's an extremely sensuous city, probably as no other. The shapes, colors, shadows, smells and food bring all my senses alive. Rome is a physical city, a living thing - you cannot be uninvolved. I am so happy to be able to return in Oct and hopefully for many years to come. It is a continuing love affair.

Lovely report! I've taken notes for my trip in Sept. Don't worry about the length, lots of us love having all the details!

Thanks SusanP. Because I've been to Rome 4x, this trip was more to just "be" there and not to rush around and see all the sights, which I think I really accomplished, but it's hard not to get caught up in the rush. Staying in Trastevere helps. Hope you have a great time!

What a great report. Your descriptions have captured the spirit of Rome so well! Isn't it amazing how one wears their emotions on their sleeve in Italy?

Barb, going to Rome the end of May with my 16 year old daughter and she loves artickokes, what area if the restaurant Da Giggetto, you gave the address,but what area? Thanks!

Love reading your report - I'll be there in 2 weeks and this is really getting me in the mood! You mentioned a shop to buy Murano beads - do you recall the approximate location of the shop? Thanks!

great report barb!!!
aside from all the great details, i especially appreciated the honest assessment of being a single woman while dining in certain places, and i enjoyed reading about your time with the landlady.
i'll be leaving in a few weeks and will probably have a ton of questions before then, so don't go too far from fodors, okay? :)

Thanks to all, it was fun reliving my time there. It's amazing how emotional am when I am there - feelings that I just don't experience here at home and would certainly not show in public! Da Giggetto is in the Ghetto right by the Portico d'Ottavia. It's easy to find. The murano glass place is called Murano Piu' and is on Corso del Rinascimento, not far from Corso Vittorio Emanuele. I forgot to mention the darling little clock I bought for my little granddaughter who is due the end of April. It is raku and the shop is on Via d.Pastini before you get to Via del Corso. If anyone is interested I will get the address tonight. It is a picture of a cute little puppy looking over a wall with a long pendalum.

Nutella: I'm totally addicted to this forum, so feel free to ask away.

Hi barb I am really enjoying your reporr-
i actually went to Bibli a few times when in Trastevere with a local woman who I befriended there (She lived in another apartment in the building where mine was). We went to a couple of readings, which were wonderful, and went for passegiata a few times together, where she took me to the "back rooms" of various places in the neighborhood and introduced me to her friends. How wonderful it is to share time with a local person! I love your descriptions!

I am enjoying your report,Barb. It seems like we were in a lot of the same places! In the course of a month in Trastevere,I spent a FORTUNE at the Almost Corner Bookshop. If I ever travel alone again,I'll have to factor books into my budget! English language books away from home are very expensive!

One small point- The Janiculum Hill is not actually one of the seven original hills of Rome,although occasionally it is labeled as such.

There is at least one English-language used bookstore in Rome. However, it was closed for the holiday when I went there. It's true books overseas can be very expensive if bought new, but in Florence I got about 4 books for less than 10 Euros at the Paperback Exchange.

Barb, I'm very much enjoying your report (and that of all the women who've been to Rome recently). I have a strong pull to go back there after my visit in January. Logically, that won't be anytime soon.

Great report, Barb. Thanks for sharing your intimate thoughts and feelings. I can see why your landlady found you so "simpatica".

ttt

Being able to share time with S really made this trip so special. I am hoping that we will be able to continue our friendship, and I plan on returning to Bibli, hopefully in the fall. It would be great to find a used book store! Do you have the address? Re the Janiculum Hill - just read that out of my guidebook, but I stand corrected if that's not true.

Great report Barb! And I have that Dido CD in my car - been listening to it for weeks! love it - faves are 1, 3 and 6. And now when you hear it, you can think of your nice time in Roma.