I don't think anyone who read your post could have misunderstood you, travellin, although I understand why you posted your amendment. Even if you and your family choose to include this incredibly sobering, and IMO worthy, experience in you agenda, Poland has many delights, so your excitement is easily justified.

Elizabeth_S: <i>Just to offer current information based on our recent experience - you must visit Auschwitz with a group or private guide.</i>

Actually, you can enter the Auschwitz camp without a guide before 10AM or after 3PM, during "high season" (April 1 - October 31). I'm not saying you shouldn't hire a guide, only that you aren't required to at all times. I toured Auschwitz without a guide. It is possible to do so.

http://visit.auschwitz.org/faq.html?lang=en

FWIW, I would strongly suggest that you should NOT feel obliged, in any way, to let us know what you decide or how you and your family respond. While such reports can be informative, they are NOT mandatory, and you are free to tell us whatever you want -- and that might be nothing. IMO, reactions to sites as emotional as Auschwitz / Birkenau are incredibly personal, and what you do with those experiences should, IMO, be free of any other expectation. JMO.