Arles or St. Remy as a base town?
 

We will be driving around Western Provence for 3-4 days. Which one is better as a base town - Arles or St. Remy?
Also, any suggestions for hotels, restaurants, and sights around there are appreciated.

St-Rémy is more accessible and a prettier place to stay unless you want to be in a major city. The drive from there to Arles isn't far, and you can see most of the major sights in a single day. Then from St-Rémy you can head to Les Baux, over to Avignon, and certainly the Pont du Gard.

What's your hotel budget?

I agree with Underhill, St. Remy is much prettier. We stayed in Arles simply because we got an incredible hotel price of 45 euros for a double with shower.

Having seen St. Remy though I think I would try to stay there another time ~o)

jazzyred - Do you mind telling me the name of that hotel, and what you thought of it. I'm probably going to be there in March and am just starting to think about accomodations.

Isabel, you are smart to try to book now! We have been trying to find a nice place in St. Remy or Les Baux for weeks and every place we have tried is booked up for our visit! Les Mas de Carassins seems to get glowing reviews on about every site I look at (booked up during our visit). We have been looking for hotels around the 120 Euro range. I'm curious to hear what others say for hotel advice.

Here's a very nice, if somewhat quirky, hotel in St-Rémy: http://www.hotel-gounod.com/

We actually considered Hotel Gounod, but were a bit afraid of the 'quirky' - did you stay there? Maybe it's all the gold and satin sheets on the website...

No, I haven't stayed there, but I popped in for a look-see a couple of weeks ago and loved it. By quirky, BTW, I was referring to certain elements of the décor, like the mannequins in sequined tops in the lobby, along with a huge funnel-shaped fishtank. The owner couldn't have been nicer.

Anyway, the reason I popped in was that I had recommended it to some of my travel clients (on the recommendation of PBProvence, who lives in Maussane), and they called me when they got back and raved about it. They didn't mention gold and satin sheets, but said it was their favorite hotel of their entire trip.

I have had lunch there - delicious and very good service.

isabel,

Our great find was the Hotel Calendal in Arles. It was very pleasant, clean rooms, decent breakfast, good service and best price ever.
It has awonderful terrace and gardens where you can eat or lounge as well.

Trip Advisor rates it # 1 hotel in Arles. www.lecalendal.com

Good luck it is popular!

OK, I'm getting the message that St. Remy is preferable and I also begin to feel that I must hurry with reservations there - we'll be there October 10th. Any other good hotels, restaurants in St. Remy?

ttt

Marley....this is a minor thread ofn the subnject. Go to search and try St. Remy and even Provence and not only will alot of questions answered, but so will questions you havent thought of.Too bad they don't separaate the threads here by subject.

Two hotels we've liked near St-Rémy: the Château de Roussan, dating from the 18th century, with beautiful grounds and a nice little restaurant. Under the same ownership (English/French) is the Domaine de Valmouriane, on the road to Les Baux. Very Provençal in feel, good restaurant, lovely pool, gated parking.

Here's my shortlist of hotels in St Remy if it helps (I'm the one who lives in Maussane - just over the Alpilles from St Remy)

St. Remy de Provence :

**** Château des Alpilles (2 kms from town on the D31)
19th Century mansion set in spacious grounds. Pool, tennis courts, handicapped access.
15 rooms - from 180 - 230 euro (They also have 4 apartments)
Closed 16 November to 23 December and 5 January to 19 February
Tel: (33) 490 92 03 33 Fax: (33) 490 92 45 17
[email protected]

*** Domaine de Valmouriane (4.5 kms from town on the D27, route des Baux)
Restored Provençal Mas set in elegant gardens. Pool, tennis courts, AC.
11 rooms - from 160 - 305 euro
Closed 14 November to 26 November and 16 to 28 January
Tel: (33) 490 92 44 62 Fax: (33) 490 92 37 32
domdeval@ wanadoo.fr

Hôtel Les Ateliers de l'Image (in town)
Modern hotel, on the site of the old village movie house. AC, handicapped access.
24 rooms - 140 - 360 euro
Tel: (33) 490 92 51 50 Fax: (33) 490 92 43 52
[email protected]

Hotel Gounod Ville Verte

Originally a "relais", already well frequented in 1660, this charming hotel is across from the church in St Remy. In 1863 the composer Charles Gounod, a friend of Frederic Mistral, stayed there while he wrote the opera "Mireille".
The entire hotel has been renovated and restored. The rooms are comfortable and well appointed and the bathrooms are very well done. Rooms start at 115 euro for a double room in season and include breakfast. A/C
There is also a charming tea room on the ground floor.

www.hotel-gounod.com
Tel: (33) 490 92 06 14 Fax: (33) 490 92 56 54

Domaine de Bournissac (11 kms from town in Paluds de Noves)
Restored Mas, with a view of the Alpilles, Luberon and Mont Ventoux. Nicely furnished rooms. Small shop selling local products
Restaurant with an excellent reputation... with a terrace under a large old fig tree.
13 Rooms 175 - 230 euro
[email protected]


Villa Glanum (outside town, direction Les Baux - next to Glanum)
Comfortable, country style hotel. Pool, handicap access.
28 rooms from 65 - 80 euro
Closed from 1 November to 23 March.
Tel: (33) 490 92 03 59 Fax: (33) 490 92 00 08
[email protected]

Mas des Carassins (outside town, direction les Baux)
Restored 19th C Mas (farmhouse) with lovely gardens. Pool
12 rooms from 95 - 125 euro
Closed 4 January to 28 March
Tel: (33) 490 92 15 48 Fax: (33) 490 92 63 47
[email protected] www.hoteldescarassins.com


l'Amandiere (outside of town, direction Noves - about 2 kms.)
Calm setting with nice garden. Rooms have a balcony or terrace. Pool
26 Rooms from 52 - 62 euro
Closed End October to Mid-March
Tel: (33) 490 92 41 00 Fax: (33) 490 92 48 38


If you'd care to go over the Alpilles (it takes about ten minutes) here are some in my area:

Les Baux de Provence

*** La Riboto de Taven (in the valley)
Restored mas and sheepfold, lovely gardens. They just reopened two years ago after major restoration and renovation. Several rooms are in the main building, and 2 rooms are carved into the cliffs, with beautiful views upward to Les Baux from their private terraces.
The Riboto was a one Michelin star restaurant for 35 years.... and they are still offering dinner to their guests, as well as light lunches by the pool.
Pool, A/C, handicap access
7 Rooms from 190-250 euro
Closed 5 January to mid March
Tel: (33) 490 54 34 23 Fax: (33) 490 54 38 88
email: [email protected]

** Auberge de la Bevengudo (2 kms from les Baux)
Mas set in flower gardens. Discreetly arranged rooms opening onto the gardens. Restaurant (closed Sunday evenings). Pool, tennis courts,AC
21 rooms from - 135 - 185 euro (three apartments)
Tel: (33) 490 54 32 54 Fax: (33) 490 54 42 58
[email protected]
** Mas d'Aigret (just outside the entrance to the village of Les Baux)
Backing into the cliffs, the views are spectacular. Charming hotel that reopened last year. Pool, A/C Restaurant built into the mountain...with fireplace.
16 rooms 95 - 170 euro
Tel: (33) 490 54 20 00 Fax: (33) 490 54 44 00
[email protected]

** Mas de l'Oulivié ( 2.5 kms from les Baux)
Newer hotel ( motel style) with gardens, set near olive groves. Pool, tennis courts, AC, handicap access
25 rooms from - 170 - 230 euro
Closed 7 November to mid March
Tel: (33) 490 54 35 78 Fax: (33) 490 54 44 31
[email protected]

Maussane-les-Alpilles

Val Bausssenc
Small comfortable hotel decorated in Provencal style - views of the countryside. Rooms on the ground floor have terraces. Pool, handicap access, restaurant.
21 rooms from 108 euro
Closed 1 November to 1st March
Tel: (33) 490 54 38 90 Fax: (33) 490 54 33 36
[email protected]

Du Côté des Olivades (between Maussane and Le Paradou)
New hotel, in the style of an old Mas, in the countryside. Pool, A/C, Handicap Access Restaurant
10 Rooms from 121 - 184 euro
Tel: (33) 490 54 56 78 Fax: (33) 490 54 56 79

Hotel Aurelia
New hotel, small rooms, but very neat and clean. It became a "Best Western" hotel last year. Nice bathrooms. A/C, Pool, handicap access (I recommend the rooms over looking the pool - the other side is near a main road)
11 Rooms from 119 - 130 euro
Tel: (33) 490 54 22 54 Fax: (33) 490 54 20 75
[email protected]

And here's my restaurant list:

St. Remy


Jardin de Frédéric
Small, cozy restaurant with a small outdoor terrace. Good seafood dishes. Friendly owner and service is good.
Closed Sunday and Monday lunch
Dress - Casual
8, boulevard Gambetta Tel: 04 90 92 27 76
Menus offered at 25 and 28 euro (dinner) 16 euro (lunch)

La Serre
Charming restaurant in an old greenhouse in the village - chef is the grandson of Gaston Lenotre. Very good, inventive food, reasonably priced.
Dress - casual
8, rue Commune Tel: 04 90 92 37 21

La Source
Charming, small restaurant fairly off the tourist path. Very good food, beautiful shaded terrace overlooking a garden for summer dining. Closed Wednesday
Totally non-smoking
13, avenue Liberation Tel: 04 90 92 44 71
Lunch menu around 21 euro Dinner menus 30/40 euro

L'Apostrophe
Newer brasserie . Fusion cuisine - French, Thai, Antilles Islands, Chinese, Moroccan. The food is very good - although some portions are a bit large.
It has a two tiered terrace with a view of the church. And the chairs are very comfortable. Prices are reasonable - entrees are in the 7 euro range and main courses around 14 euro.
17, place de la Republique Tel: 04 90 92 02 13

Outside of St.Remy, on the D5 just outside of Graveson:

Moulin d'Aure

Also a B&B, the restaurant is wonderful. The owners are Italian, so many of the dishes are Italian inspired. Reasonably priced, with a decent wine list that includes some good Italian choices.

Outside of St. Remy in the direction of Noves:
La Maison (Domaine de Bournissac)
New restaurant and country inn (about two years old) - in a lovely old mas. Excellent cuisine. Terrace shaded by a fig tree. A bit on the expensive side.
Closed Monday and Tuesday noon
tel: 04 90 90 25 25
Menu at around 40 euro


Les Baux de Provence

* Riboto de Taven
In the Val d'Enfer, just below the village of Les Baux. An excellent Michelin one star restaurant for thirty-five years, they've turned in their star and are no longer serving a varied menu. They've become a country inn and serve a dinner with a set menu . Call in advance to see what they're serving - and if they have room. The menu changes with the seasons, but always includes regional dishes. Beautiful garden and terrace with a view of the village of Les Baux. Dining on the terrace in the summer months, otherwise indoors in what was once the bergerie (sheepfold).
Dress - Dressy casual, although no ties required for men.
Tel: 04 90 54 34 23
Menu is usually around 45 euro

Maussane-les-Alpilles

Le Fournil
Traditional Provençal cuisine and great individual pizzas (not American style). A wonderful family restaurant.
Dress - casual Reservations recommended in season
Behind the village church Tel: 04 90 54 40 33

La Place

The Oustau de la Baumaniere's new little bistro. Mix and match menu prices...
some have said it was good, others have said they wouldn't return. I haven't summoned up the courage to try it yet.
on the main square in Maussane.

La Vallée ( Chez Karine )
This restaurant was begun a couple of years ago by Jean-Louis' daughter Karine (Jean Louis of Bistrot du Paradou) and her sister. Her sister has gone on to other things, but Karine, along with the former chef at Cuisine au Planet in Fontvieille are doing good things here. One of their most successful menus has been based on the artichoke.... extremely popular.

15, avenue de la Vallée des Baux Tel: (33) 490 54 54 00
[email protected] website: www.la-vallee.net

* Bistrot de La Petite France
Former Michelin one star restaurant, just outside Maussane near Le Paradou in a renovated farmhouse. They "turned in" their star and changed the style of the restaurant to a less formal bistro. Excellent food, good service. One of the best wine lists in France (the chef's father is the owner of the largest wine distributor in the south of France)
Personal favorites are the raviolis with green olives, sage and ricotta and the breast of duck.
Casual. Reservations recommended Closed Wednesday and Thursday
55, avenue de la Vallee des Baux Tel: 04 90 54 41 91
Menu - 25 euro

Bistrot du Paradou
Popular (written about endlessly) with tourists. Lunch and Dinner (dinner served only from June through the end of September). One Menu, based on market shopping - basically you eat what Jean-Louis' wife cooks.
The past couple of years I've found that the menus are changing less and less, and the price has gone up and up.. In the early spring, Jean Louis put up signs everywhere on the property "Chez Jean Louis"....just in case people couldn't find the place, I guess.
Friday is always Aïoli day... way overpriced. Check the menu of the day before reserving
Dress is casual Tel: 04 90 54 32 70
Lunch menu - 36 euro Dinner menu - 43 euro


The Camargue - Le Sambuc

* La Chassagnette
Owned by the same woman who owns the hotel Nord Pinus in Arles, this is a restored Carmaguais mas, beautifully opened up and decorated. One wall is "caged " with chickenwire and filled with sage leaves. The only registered "organic" restaurant in France, almost everything is grown in their gardens. The menus are based around Camarguais tapas. One evening we counted thirty different dishes....
Many of the items are available in jars and containers to take home.
An amazing memorable restaurant that I highly recommend.
Lunch menu at 37 euro Dinner menu at 52 euro
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch
Tel: (33) 490 97 26 96 [email protected]

Thanks to everybody, PBProvence in particular. I am full of knowledge now. Can not wait...

PBProvence-Thank you so much. So glad I stumbled upon this thread. It was just what I was looking for!!!
Merry Christmas!

Just a quick note to say that I'm temporarily removing La Chassagnette from my restaurant listings...

The chef, Jean Luc Rabanel, has left the restaurant - apparently over the investors decision to turn it into some type of bistro.... This happened recently while I was away for a month, so I'm still trying to check it out. In any event apparently La Chassagnette is closed until spring of 2006

Happy Holidays to everyone !
Patricia

bookmarking for my future vacation plans...

ttt

bump for future reference

PB--what a great resource sheet! Many thanks.

I also have found this thread invaluable. I'm wondering, though, if Patricia would like to comment (or update) the restaurant list. We will be staying outside of St. Remy in the small town of Mallaine at the end of September. Any changes or additions since last year to your list?? Much appreciated!!

Also, I'm sure I start a new thread for this but.... any tips on 1 day cooking classes in the area?

Deb

ttt re: updated restaurant list
thanks!

Just returned from St. Remy..stayed at Hotel Mas des Carassins...it was fantastic, beautiful setting, rooms were lovely...and they were able to fit 4 of us (2 adults and 2 children, ages 10 and 13) comfortably in one room. Had dinner there one evening and it was delicious. To add to restaurant list, we loved Les Bistrot des Alpilles, on main ring road in town. The leg of lamb melted in my mouth...service was very friendly and fun. Their menu enfant of ravioli (or chicken wings) was heartily enjoyed by my children. Warning...don't order the rum cake unless you are walking...fortunately, we had walked (and yes, it is walking distance into town from hotel, but it is a bit rocky).

bookmarking!

bookmarking as well.

Thank you PB! I'm bookmarking as well.

Just a note for those who have bookmarked...

La Source (restaurant) has closed permanently. However there's a nice restaurant almost next door called La Forge that is reasonably priced and the food is pretty good.

L'Apostrophe has also changed hands and is called L'Olivier. Haven't had a chance to eat there yet and haven't had any feedback on it either.

La Chassagnette is off my list...friends ate their recently and said it was way overpriced and mediocre.
The former chef of la Chassagnette is now at his own place in Arles - L'atelier de Jean Luc Rabanel.
Word is it will get at least one star this year in Michelin.

I'm happy to hear that Swissgirl enjoyed the Bistrot des Alpilles. I quit eating there not long after the new owners took over - I find it way overpriced.

Patricia

Has anyone stayed at one of the St.-Remy area inns affiliated with Logis-de-France? Specifically, perusing the Logis-de-France website, I found HOSTELLERIE LE CHALET FLEURI, which looked pretty good. (Another in St.-Remy is AUBERGE DE LA REINE JEANNE). Any feedback on either of these places?

Wow - I'm so glad I stumbled onto this thread...Just booked a room in St-Rémy at Villa Glanum...anyone stayed there? Seems nice and so reasonably priced and well situated. I'm mostly curious about things to do in Provence area and on what days...My husband and I will be there during the 2nd week in July. What/where are the best markets/festivals, etc. Thanks in advance...

Corkee...

Villa Glanum is quite a nice small hotel about a ten minute walk from town...right on the doorstep of Glanum itself. The two monuments just behind the hotel are presently "under wraps" - scaffolding and netting - while undergoing a complete restoration.

A few nearby markets are : St. Rémy & Arles- Wednesday
Maussane-les-Alpilles - Thursday
Tarascon - Tuesday
St. Martin de Crau - Friday
Arles - (huge) Saturday

The 14th of July you'll find festivals in almost every village... if the weather isn't too dry and risk of fire too high, many will have fireworks.

Some day trips (I've posted this elsewhere)

Day One:
Drive to the Pont du Gard in the morning. This is about a 45 minute drive from St Rémy. Afterwards, drive another 15 minutes to Uzès. This is a charming town with a wonderful pedestrian center and many interesting shops, especially for pottery.
There is also a beautiful medieval garden which is open for visits.
Market day is Saturday - all day.
Restaurant recommendation for lunch:

Les Fontaines
Charming small restaurant in the center of town. Tiny indoor patio area among the ruined walls. Good eclectic mix of food... sometimes a Moroccan tahjine, sometimes provençal.
6, rue Entre les Tours Tel: 04 66 22 41 20

After lunch return to St Rémy via Tarascon - you might wish to visit the castle on the Rhône.
If you haven't dallied too long, the end of the day is the perfect time to visit Les Baux, just on the south side of the Alpilles from St.Rémy. The tour buses have left and it's a delightful time to wander the cobblestone streets and visit.

Day Two:

Make a circuit of the Lubéron villages. From St. Rémy drive to Gordes (about 45 minutes), and then visit the Abbaye de Senanque. If you're planning to be here the end of June or July, the Abbaye will be surrounded by blooming lavender fields.
I don't really recommend spending long in Gordes - for one you have to pay to park and the village is much more spectacular viewed from afar.

From Gordes or l'Abbaye, drive to Roussillon (about 20 minutes). Roussillon is built on red and yellow ochre cliffs and is home to many artists and galleries. It's a beautiful small village and the climb to the top is very interesting. There's a great pottery shop at the top that also sells packaged ochres, if you are an artist or have the urge to begin painting.

Near the clock tower there's a charming small outdoor restaurant called La Treille, which has good food at a reasonable price.

From Roussillon drive to Bonnieux through the vineyards. This is another perched village and the climb to the top is steep. If you've had enough climbing, I suggest going on Lacoste, home of the Marquis de Sade's château. It was purchased a couple of years ago by Pierre Cardin, but I think parts of it are still open to the public.

From Lacoste you can drive to Menerbes (you can park at the top of the village) where there are some charming shops and views. Or you can continue along to Oppede le Vieux, one of my favorites Not completely "redone" it's a small village with a ruined church and château (now closed) that is charming.

This is a full day.



Day Three:
If you're interested in the Camargue (the natural wildlife preserve - famous for the wild Camarguais horses, bulls and rice fields) I highly suggest a visit to Aigues Mortes.
South of Arles, it's a little over an hour's drive from St Remy.

A walled city, departure point for the crusades, it's one of my favorite places in the area. It hasn't really caught on with foreign tourists yet, although do I see more and more every year.

Famous for salt, you can see the mountains of it from the ramparts.

Returning from Aigues Mortes, you might want to visit Arles. The Roman coliseum and theater in town are well preserved and used today. There is also a Roman necropolis just on the edge of town and within walking distance from the center.
It's also a place that Van Gogh painted extensively, and the Tourist Office has a booklet (in English ) that gives various walking tours that are very interesting.

It's about a 30 minute drive back to St Rémy from Arles.

Day Four:

If you're interested in seeing some of the coast, I highly recommend a drive of about an hour and half to Cassis. A small fishing village right on the Med, it's got a great beach and you can take a boat ride to visit the "calanques"... inlets with small beaches at the foot of the cliffs not accessible by car.

Recommendation for lunch - overlooking the water:

Le Grand Large

Just off the port, with a large terrace overlooking the beach and the sea. Excellent seafood during the season. In summer bouillabaisse is often on the menu (without having to request it in advance) Off season, call the evening before if you would like this specialty. The fried calamari is excellent, as is the fresh fish.
Tel: 04 42 01 81 00

If you're not interested in driving that far I could suggest, especially if it's a Sunday, driving to l'Isle sur la Sorgue which has a fabulous market and antiques market that day. The village is spread out along the banks of the Sorgue river and there are big water wheels dotted along the town. Little shops and winding streets make it a more relaxing day.

And, of course, visit St. Rémy, home of Nostradamus. The St Paul de Mausole just outside of town, is the institution where Van Gogh spent time and painted a lot. There is a walk that has panels showing the paintings he did while there - and some of the views are basically unchanged today. Just next door is Glanum - the ruins of a Roman town built on the ruins of a Phoenician village. It's quite fascinating to visit.
Market day in St Rémy is Wednesday and the town is very busy that day.

Patricia

Thank you all so much for this very valuable information! We are just starting to plan our March '08 trip. We will be in France for a month!

I cannot express my gratitude enough for all your generosity in these postings! ((L))

Loved St Remy & plan to go back so bookmarking this for the Hotels & Restaurants. Many thanks

Thanks for this great information!

One more vote for St. Remy and le Mas des Carassins - the best part of a magical three-week vacation we took in the area in 2005. Breakfast by the pool, bees buzzing in the lavender, cigalles singing, les Alpilles on the horizon...paradis!

After a recent 17 day stay in Provence, I'd like to add my 2 cents...

- We stayed 5 nights in le Paradou and visited St-Rémy 3 times (including market day) and failed to find its appeal.
- We spent almost an entire day (and a couple of evenings) at Les Baux; it was one of the highlights of our trip. The same for the Pont du Gard.
- The Camargue was a disappointment; Aigues Mortes was not. It compared favorably IMO to Carcassonne.
- We spent 6 nights in pretty Venasque and 5 nights near Buisson. Each was an ideal location to get to see the sights of the Luberon, Vaucluse and the lower Drôme. We got to see some very beautiful scenery on these daytrips.
- Of the many villages we visited (and there were many!) our favorites were Venasque, Joucas, Lacoste, Saignon, Seguret, Le Crestet and Brantes.
- The OP (in 2005) asks "We will be driving around Western Provence for 3-4 days. Which one is better as a base town - Arles or St. Remy?" I would answer "Neither" and suggest an area further to the north and east, say near l'Isle sur la Sorgue - closer to more of the attractions...

>>- The OP (in 2005) asks "We will be driving around Western Provence for 3-4 days. Which one is better as a base town - Arles or St. Remy?" I would answer "Neither" and suggest an area further to the north and east, say near l'Isle sur la Sorgue - closer to more of the attractions<<

That's my opinion also - the farther away we get from St Remy & Arles, the more we enjoy Provence. St Remy & Arles are enjoyable towns where you can walk to dinner, sit at cafes with (mostly) other Americans, and do lots of shopping (Wife didn't find many shops that attracted her in Arles, plenty in St Remy) - but if you prefer expansive lavender fields, lots of vineyards, pretty rolling countryside, picturesque gorges, views all the way to the Alps, cliffside roads (a bit scary) unspoiled small villages, less touristy markets, beautiful mountains, less traffic - especially truck traffic - head north & east like TuckH suggests. For first timers, I suggest the Luberon - for 5th & beyond timers, we like the region just south of Mt Ventoux.

Stu Dudley

My husband and I were thinking of a home base at Le Clos du Bois in Bonnieux or Villa Velleron, is that far enough North to see all the beautiful sights you mention and the unspoiled village. Do you have a better suggestion for a hotel?

Bonnieux is fine. We stay in Gites (houses), so I can't recommend any hotels

Stu Dudley